L3: Smell Odour Description & Classification Flashcards
What kind of blotters should be used for odour analysis and why?
Thinner blotter, to allow recognition of different smelling phases.
What kind of blotters should be used for presenting a finished perfume and why?
Heavier and more absorbent paper, holds full composition better.
What does tapering blotters do?
- Facilitate dipping
- Minimise amount of material to be analysed.
How should perfume samples be prepared for smelling?
Dilute
For alcoholic perfumery work:
- Allow alcohol to evaporate completely before smelling
For work on other products:
- Choice of solvent
- Ideally, diluent/solvent should be similar or identical to product base
For smelling perfume compounds in neat, undiluted
form:
- Do not dip blotters too deeply
- Confine actual smelling to a few inhalations
How to sniff?
- Do not sniff directly from the bottle; risk of sniffing finely powdered materials
- Olfactory fatigue
- Write down notes of odour impressions
- Rest intervals
How should the workplace be for optimal smell analysis?
- Well-ventilated with slight overpressure in working
area. - Odourless, tempered air of natural humidity
- Quiet surroundings
Can the odour of a perfume be different if the ingredient used is grown in different countries?
Yes.
What are the 3 odour classification and their “founders”?
Rimmel: 18 distinct types
Piesse: Based on musical notes; fragrant blends could be made by using harmonious chords
Poucher: Based on volatility of fragrant materials; Top, middle and base notes
What are the 6 odour effects?
- Erogenic
- Narcotic
- Stimulating
- Anti-erogenic
- Mental stimulant
- Relaxing