L13: Eye cosmetics and problematic ingredients Flashcards
What causes the ageing of the eyes?
- UV radiation
- Gravity
What are used as a binder in an eye shadow?
- Talc
- Zinc/Magnesium stearate
What is used to improve oil absorption in an eye shadow formulation?
Kaolin
What are used as coloring agents in eye shadows?
- Titanium dioxide
- Bismuth oxychloride
- Fish scale essence
- Copper
- Aluminium
- Gold
- Silver
How to make water-resistant eye shadows?
Have a higher content of oily binder (beeswax or lanolin)
What is the limitation of water-resistant eye shadows?
Short wearing time due to their tendency to migrate into the eyelid folds
What can be done to increase the wearing time of water-resistant eye shadows?
Use eye shadow setting creams before applying the eye shadow to provide an adherent base
What is the term that describes that the eyes are closer to each other?
Hypoteloric
What is the term that describes that the eyes are more apart?
Hyperteloric
How can eye shadows be applied for a hypoteloric person?
Apply on the outer corners of the eyelids
How can eye shadows be applied for a hyperteloric person?
Apply on the inner corners of the eyelids
How can eye shadows be applied to make the eyes appear bigger?
Apply on the outer corners of the eyelids and beneath the eye corners
What is the role of eyelashes?
Protect the eyes from debris and signal the eyelid to reflexively close when something is too close to the eye
What is the purpose of using a mascara?
To darken, thicken and lengthen the eyelashes
What are some precautions for the usage of mascara?
- Discard mascara tubes after 3 months (as Pseudomonas aeruginosa will grow)
- Do not allow multiple users
What are the 3 classes of liquid mascaras?
- Water-based mascara
- Solvent-based mascara
- Hybrid mascara
What is a water-based mascara?
Oil-in-water emulsions that contain beeswax with pigments dissolved in water
What is the limitation of water-based mascaras?
Smudges with perspiration and tearing
Needs preservatives
What is the advantage of water-based mascara over solvent-based mascara?
Less sensitizing
What is a solvent-based mascara?
Petroleum distillates with pigments and waxes added
What are some disadvantages of solvent-based mascara?
- Removal requires oil-based lotion or cream
- Can be an eye irritant
- Product dries up quickly
What are some advantages of solvent-based mascara over water-based mascara?
- Water-resistant
- Performs well with perspiration
- Less preservative required, as it is anti-bacterial by itself
What is the advantages of hybrid mascara over the rest of the mascaras?
- Less sensitizing
- Provide water-resistant properties
What is the purpose of an eyeliner?
To define the margins of the eyes
What are the 3 types of eyeliners?
- Latex-based liquid eyeliner
- Pencil eyeliner
- Eyeliner tattooing
Why are eyelash dyes banned?
Because they are toxic to the eyes and may potentially cause blindness and death
What is popular eyebrow cosmetic technique in the 21st century?
Microblading
How should testing be conducted for newly bought eye cosmetics?
Place at the corner of the eye for 5 consecutive nights and evaluate for allergic or irritant effects
What are the 4 main problematic classes of ingredients?
- Preservatives
- Color additives
- Biological additives
- Herbal additives
What are some examples of problematic preservatives?
- Parabens
- Triclosan
- Nitrosamines
- Formaldehyde
- 1,4-dioxane
- Phthalates
What can replace Parabens?
Kathon
What are parabens effective against?
Gram positive bacteria and fungi
How can the coverage of paraben be improved?
By using it in combination with phenoxyethanol (that is effective against gram negative bacteria)
Which of the problematic preservative has been proven to be carcinogenic?
Formaldehyde
How else can we preserve products other than using the problematic preservatives?
- Oxygen-free dispenser
- One-way valve
- Fragrances and natural preservatives (such as essential oils)
What are the 3 classes of color additives? Rank according to safety, with the safest one first.
- FD&C colorant
- D&C colorant
- External D&C colorant
Which color additive has been shown to be comedogenic?
D&C red dyes
Why are biological additives problematic?
Because they usually derived from animals
What are some examples of problematic biological additives?
- Collagen
- Elastin
- Hyaluronic acid
- Keratin
- Placenta
- Amniotic fluid
- Egg extract
- Blood derivatives
Why are herbal additives problematic?
Many herbals are contaminated with herbicides and heavy metals
Which is more problematic, biological or herbal additives?
Biological additives
What are some examples of vitamin additives?
- Vitamin C
- Vitamin E
- Carotenoids and niacinamide
