L13: Eye cosmetics and problematic ingredients Flashcards

1
Q

What causes the ageing of the eyes?

A
  • UV radiation

- Gravity

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2
Q

What are used as a binder in an eye shadow?

A
  • Talc

- Zinc/Magnesium stearate

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3
Q

What is used to improve oil absorption in an eye shadow formulation?

A

Kaolin

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4
Q

What are used as coloring agents in eye shadows?

A
  • Titanium dioxide
  • Bismuth oxychloride
  • Fish scale essence
  • Copper
  • Aluminium
  • Gold
  • Silver
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5
Q

How to make water-resistant eye shadows?

A

Have a higher content of oily binder (beeswax or lanolin)

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6
Q

What is the limitation of water-resistant eye shadows?

A

Short wearing time due to their tendency to migrate into the eyelid folds

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7
Q

What can be done to increase the wearing time of water-resistant eye shadows?

A

Use eye shadow setting creams before applying the eye shadow to provide an adherent base

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8
Q

What is the term that describes that the eyes are closer to each other?

A

Hypoteloric

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9
Q

What is the term that describes that the eyes are more apart?

A

Hyperteloric

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10
Q

How can eye shadows be applied for a hypoteloric person?

A

Apply on the outer corners of the eyelids

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11
Q

How can eye shadows be applied for a hyperteloric person?

A

Apply on the inner corners of the eyelids

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12
Q

How can eye shadows be applied to make the eyes appear bigger?

A

Apply on the outer corners of the eyelids and beneath the eye corners

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13
Q

What is the role of eyelashes?

A

Protect the eyes from debris and signal the eyelid to reflexively close when something is too close to the eye

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14
Q

What is the purpose of using a mascara?

A

To darken, thicken and lengthen the eyelashes

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15
Q

What are some precautions for the usage of mascara?

A
  • Discard mascara tubes after 3 months (as Pseudomonas aeruginosa will grow)
  • Do not allow multiple users
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16
Q

What are the 3 classes of liquid mascaras?

A
  1. Water-based mascara
  2. Solvent-based mascara
  3. Hybrid mascara
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17
Q

What is a water-based mascara?

A

Oil-in-water emulsions that contain beeswax with pigments dissolved in water

18
Q

What is the limitation of water-based mascaras?

A

Smudges with perspiration and tearing

Needs preservatives

19
Q

What is the advantage of water-based mascara over solvent-based mascara?

A

Less sensitizing

20
Q

What is a solvent-based mascara?

A

Petroleum distillates with pigments and waxes added

21
Q

What are some disadvantages of solvent-based mascara?

A
  • Removal requires oil-based lotion or cream
  • Can be an eye irritant
  • Product dries up quickly
22
Q

What are some advantages of solvent-based mascara over water-based mascara?

A
  • Water-resistant
  • Performs well with perspiration
  • Less preservative required, as it is anti-bacterial by itself
23
Q

What is the advantages of hybrid mascara over the rest of the mascaras?

A
  • Less sensitizing

- Provide water-resistant properties

24
Q

What is the purpose of an eyeliner?

A

To define the margins of the eyes

25
Q

What are the 3 types of eyeliners?

A
  1. Latex-based liquid eyeliner
  2. Pencil eyeliner
  3. Eyeliner tattooing
26
Q

Why are eyelash dyes banned?

A

Because they are toxic to the eyes and may potentially cause blindness and death

27
Q

What is popular eyebrow cosmetic technique in the 21st century?

A

Microblading

28
Q

How should testing be conducted for newly bought eye cosmetics?

A

Place at the corner of the eye for 5 consecutive nights and evaluate for allergic or irritant effects

29
Q

What are the 4 main problematic classes of ingredients?

A
  1. Preservatives
  2. Color additives
  3. Biological additives
  4. Herbal additives
30
Q

What are some examples of problematic preservatives?

A
  • Parabens
  • Triclosan
  • Nitrosamines
  • Formaldehyde
  • 1,4-dioxane
  • Phthalates
31
Q

What can replace Parabens?

A

Kathon

32
Q

What are parabens effective against?

A

Gram positive bacteria and fungi

33
Q

How can the coverage of paraben be improved?

A

By using it in combination with phenoxyethanol (that is effective against gram negative bacteria)

34
Q

Which of the problematic preservative has been proven to be carcinogenic?

A

Formaldehyde

35
Q

How else can we preserve products other than using the problematic preservatives?

A
  • Oxygen-free dispenser
  • One-way valve
  • Fragrances and natural preservatives (such as essential oils)
36
Q

What are the 3 classes of color additives? Rank according to safety, with the safest one first.

A
  1. FD&C colorant
  2. D&C colorant
  3. External D&C colorant
37
Q

Which color additive has been shown to be comedogenic?

A

D&C red dyes

38
Q

Why are biological additives problematic?

A

Because they usually derived from animals

39
Q

What are some examples of problematic biological additives?

A
  • Collagen
  • Elastin
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Keratin
  • Placenta
  • Amniotic fluid
  • Egg extract
  • Blood derivatives
40
Q

Why are herbal additives problematic?

A

Many herbals are contaminated with herbicides and heavy metals

41
Q

Which is more problematic, biological or herbal additives?

A

Biological additives

42
Q

What are some examples of vitamin additives?

A
  • Vitamin C
  • Vitamin E
  • Carotenoids and niacinamide