hair styling Flashcards
co-wash
use cleansing conditioner that refreshes and adds moisture to hair between weekly shampoos
co-styling
co-styling, which refers to using textured hairstyling techniques (typically performed at night) then covering the hair with a silk or satin bonnet/scarf to preserve a long-lasting textured style.
Vent brush
Vent brushes speed up drying times due to their vented brush heads and wide-spaced pins. They also create more natural styles because they do not force the hair into a specific shape.
Paddle brush
Paddle brushes have a large, flat base with a pneumatic (air-cushioned) pad. They are well suited for mid-length or longer hair. Some have ball-tipped nylon bristles and staggered pin patterns to enhance the grip on the hair and keep the hair from snagging.
Styling comb
Styling combs have fine combing and styling abilities. The pick can lift and separate the curls. The teeth are ideal for creating smooth finishes.
Feather comb
The feather comb is a tool used in finishing a style and producing different looks. They are available in different lengths, sizes, materials and teeth variations. Those with shorter teeth and teeth spaced farther apart will remove less curl than a longer toothed feather comb.
Hair pick
Hair picks lift and fluff curly or coily hair. They can also detangle very short, highly textured hair.
Wide-tooth comb
Wide-tooth combs are the preferred choice for thick, curly, or wet hair and are used to detangle large sections of hair.
Styling lotion
Styling lotion has a creamy consistency and is alcohol-free, which allows for a light hold with a natural effect
Setting foam
sets wet sets
Pomade
Pomade is a greasy, waxy, or oily styling aid that gives hair a shiny and slick appearance, or a matte finish. Hair pomades keep the hair in place with either a light or strong hold.
Hair wax pomade
Hair wax pomade feels very slick and greasy. It was made popular by the “greasers”—a rebellious cultural movement in the 1950s. It was used to comb quiff, pompadour, and jellyroll hairstyles
Water-based pomades
Water-based pomades are water soluble; easy to shampoo out; and available in soft-, medium-, and hard-hold formulas.
Hybrid pomades
are formulated with both water and oil. They are a good choice for creating mussed styles or less structured, textured details.
Clay pomades
excel at molding rockabilly type quiffs and pompadours, styles with strong side parts, and all structured styles.
Hair paste pomades
have a fairly stiff consistency that softens in your hands. They have a low-to-moderate shine factor, usually have a medium hold factor, and are easily applied to the hair.
AC motors (hair dryer)
Heavier but more powerful than a DC motor
Working life span of up to 1,200 hours
Quieter than DC motors
Powerful airflow and heat output
Uses 1,600 to 1,850 watts of electricity
More expensive than DC motor blowdryers
DC Motors
Due to improved technology in recent years, some professional stylists are opting for DC motor dryers. Pros and cons of this dryer type include:
Used in most consumer dryers and some professional dryers
Lighter and less expensive than most AC motors
Working life span typically up to 700 hours
Noisier than AC or EC motors
Produces up to 1,800 watts of electricity, with 1,200 being most common
Usually less airflow and heat than AC or EC motors
Safety ground feature (three-prong plug or ALCI plug) sometimes not present
May not have professional-length cord
EC motors (hair dryer)
Lightweight and quiet
Delivers strong airflow and maximum heat
Significantly longer life span than AC or DC motors; AC and DC motors have carbon brushes that wear out over time; EC motors are brushless and use magnets and digital electronics to drive the motor and extend tool longevity
Currently more expensive than AC or DC motors
Includes three-prong plug or ALCI plug and professional-length cord
DC motor (hair dryer)
Used in most consumer dryers and some professional dryers
Lighter and less expensive than most AC motors
Working life span typically up to 700 hours
Noisier than AC or EC motors
Produces up to 1,800 watts of electricity, with 1,200 being most common
Usually less airflow and heat than AC or EC motors
Safety ground feature (three-prong plug or ALCI plug) sometimes not present
May not have professional-length cord
what angel do you do a blowout at
For a shiny and silky finish, use a round brush to scoop the client’s hair from underneath, lifting at a 45-degree angle with tension. Place the blowdryer nozzle near the scalp and point it down toward you, as opposed to straight down.
Electric curling irons have round barrels, which typically range from
0.5 to 2 inches in diameter.
Soft press,
which removes about 50 to 60 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair.
Medium press,
which removes about 60 to 75 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair, using slightly more pressure.
Hard press,
Hard press, which removes 100 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair. A hard press can also be done by first passing a hot thermal iron through the hair. This is called a double press
double press
A hard press can also be done by first passing a hot thermal iron through the hair. This is called a double press.
Pressing fine hair.
Follow the same procedure as for normal hair. Avoid using a high-heat pressing comb or too much pressure. Consider flat ironing on high heat if the curl form is not highly textured. To avoid hair breakage, apply less pressure to the hair near the ends.
Pressing coarse hair.
Apply enough pressure so that the hair remains straightened.
Pressing coily or curly hair.
This hair may be coarse, medium, or fine. Because of the compact construction of its cuticle cells, this hair type requires more heat and pressure than others.
Pressing lightened or tinted hair.
Pressing lightened (bleached) hair is never recommended. Tinted hair might require pre- and post-conditioning treatments, depending on the extent of the damage.
Pressing gray hair.
Gray hair may be harder to straighten. For good results, use a moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure. Avoid excessive heat, as discoloration or breakage can occur.
Pressing Oil or Cream
Make hair softer
Prepare and condition the hair for pressing
Help protect the hair from burning or scorching
Help prevent hair breakage
Add sheen to pressed hair
Help hair stay pressed longer by acting as a sealant preventing reversion
Curl ‘n’ go and coil ‘n’ go
Curl ‘n’ go and coil ‘n’ go are styling methods that achieve a free curly or coily defined texture using products and finger/hand manipulations.
The curly method
is a weekly hair styling regimen used to achieve the curl ‘n’ go/wash ‘n’ go hairstyle on wavy, curly, and coily hair textures, created with raking, spiral curling, and scrunching techniques. Use a paddle brush or detangling brush with your fingers to create this style. The curly method is used with wavy and curly hair that is chin length or longer.
The coily method
The coily method is a weekly styling regimen to achieve the coil ‘n’ go/wash ‘n’ go style on very coily, tightly coiled, and highly textured hair created with palm coiling, or palm rolling, and finger coil techniques. Use a wide-tooth comb, a detangling brush, and the palm and fingers of your hand to create this style.
Bantu knot or Nubian knot.
Bantu knot or Nubian knot. The hair is double-strand twisted or coil twisted and wrapped around itself to make a knot and secured with bobby pins or elastic bands
Glamour waves
Once the hair is set in a flat twist set, it must be completely dry before untwisting, or the style will appear frizzy. Once dry, the flat twist set is untwisted and opened to create a wavy texture.
Flat twist.
The hair is parted in several rows over the entire head. Each section is divided into two subsections and then twisted and interwoven to lie flat on the scalp. A flat twist set can be made in varying patterns, with or without extensions
comb coil technique
finger coils, or coil-out technique to create individual formations of tight cylindrical coils.
Coil-out.
Once the hair has been comb coiled into individual coils and then dried completely, the coils are uncoiled or neatly unraveled. This style now has fuller coils that lift off the scalp to create a full coily textured Afro
twist-out
The twist-out style involves unraveling the twist to add fullness and a crimped effect. The twist-out’s double-strand twists can be made in any size and length. Apply foam, cream gel, or twisting cream to wet, textured hair for a twist set. After hair is dried, twists are opened, finger-combed, lifted at the scalp with a pick, and styled to create a voluminous textured Afro.
Locs
are separate networks of coily, textured hair that are intertwined and meshed together (Figure 12-55). Locs are a permanent textured style achieved without chemicals. The hair locks in several slow phases, which can take six months to a year, depending on the hair’s length, density, and coil pattern
Sisterlocs
involve an interlocking method that instantly locs any textured hair—whether straight, relaxed, wavy, curly, coily, or highly textured—using a special tool to achieve the single loc.
palm roll method
The palm roll method is the gentlest on the hair, and it works through all the natural stages of locking. Palm rolling takes advantage of the hair’s natural ability to coil.
Volume base curls
are placed very high on the base for maximum lift and volume. Hold the hair at a 135-degree angle.
Full base curls
sit in the center of the base, which provides strong curl with full volume. Hold the hair at a 125-degree angle.
Half base curls
Half base curls achieve medium volume by sitting the styling tool halfway on its base and halfway behind the base. Hold the strand straight up (90 degrees)
Off base curls
Off base curls achieve the least volume by sitting the styling tool completely off the base. Hold the panel of hair 45 degrees from the base and roll the hair in a downward direction
Finger waving
Finger waving involves shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern using the fingers, a styling comb, and styling lotion or foam.
Finger-waving lotion
Finger-waving lotion, also known as liquid styling gel, is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger-waving procedure.
Hair wrapping
is a popular wet-set technique used to make chemically relaxed hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape
no-stem curl
The no-stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl. It produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility
half stem curl
The half stem curl permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the base. It gives good hair control
full stem curl
The full stem curl allows for the greatest mobility. The curl is placed completely off the base.
shaping
A shaping is a hair section that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for curl formation.
Open-center curls
Open-center curls produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls
Closed-center curls
Closed-center curls produce waves that get smaller toward the ends
Ribboning
Ribboning involves forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension.
Carved curls
Carved curls, or sculptured curls, are pin curls that are sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head.
Pin curl waves
Pin curl waves use two rows of pin curls. Set one row clockwise and the second row counter-clockwise
Ridge curls
Ridge curls are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave
Skip waves
Skip waves are two rows of ridge curls that create a strong wave pattern with well-defined lines between the waves.
Barrel curls
barrel curls have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base.
Cascade curls
Cascade curls, also known as stand-up curls, create height in the hair design. They are fastened to the head in a standing position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward.
French pleat
A French pleat, also called French twist or French roll, is a classic hairstyle that has been popular since the 1950s. The word pleat means “folded” in French
