Fortified

Question 1

Which group was cruelly known as the ‘shippers cemetery’?

Answer 1

Madeira Wine Association (MWA)
1925. Wm. Hinton, Welsj & Cunha, Blandy Bros and Leacock & Co.

Question 2

What are the 2 Islands within the archipelago of Madeira?

IGP and style?
2 DOP’s and styles?

Answer 2

Terras Madeirenses IGP & both DO’s encompasses both the inhabited isles of the subtropical Madeira archipelago: Madeira and Porto Santo (NW of Madeira).

Madeira DOP: fortified

Madeirense DOP: unfortified wines may be red, white, or rosé.

Question 3

What is the ruling body governing the production of Madeira wines?

Answer 3

IVBAM

Wine, embroidery and Handicraft Institute of Madeira

[IV = 4 BAM]

Question 4

4 Principal soils of Madeira?

Porto Santo?

Answer 4

Saibro: red tufa
Pedra mole (soft stone): yellow tufa
Massapes: dark tufa
Cascalho: stony soil

Primarily volcanic and limestone with dry sandy soils. The Southern coastal area that is best suited for viticulture is also unfortunately the tourist hot spot. Porto Santo was/is? known for Listrao (Palomino). NW of Madeira.

Question 5

Poios?

Answer 5

Madeira

Basalt stone sustain terraces - they ring the island’s perimeter

Question 6

Latadas?

Answer 6

Madeira

Traditionally vineyards are trained in a low trellising pergola system which aids to combat the dangers of fungal disease in the damp subtropical environment.

Newer vineyards are cordon trained.

Question 7

Levadas?

Answer 7

Madeira

The traditional canal irrigation system.

Madeira rises to a high altitude (1,861m) and the perpetual cloud cover (capacete or ‘helmet’) over its mountainous interior results in abundant rainfall on the higher peaks, which feeds the levadas and makes agriculture possible.

Question 8

The trading voyages of the ‘Exploration Age’ in the 16th century is what originally developed Madeira’s distinctive character and durability.

The process shipping to the tropics and then back to Madeira to develop the wines in cask has 3 references?

Answer 8

Back- loading

Torna Viagem ‘round trip/ return journey’

Vinho da Roda ‘rolled wine/ rocking of barrels’

The lengthy cask aging, heating, and cooling from voyage

Question 9

Where did Malvasia Candida originate from? Synonym?

Where can the remaining 2ha of be found?

Answer 9

Crete (Candia) in the 15th Century. Malvasia di Lapari.

Spread over ‘Jardim do Mar’ & Fajã dos Padres in both cases at sea level on the south side of the Island.

Barbeito bottles the ‘Fajã dos Padres Malvasia Cândida’.

Traditionally sweeter varieties are planted on the warmer lower elevation southern island sites (Câmara de Lobos commune)

Question 10

‘Malmsey’ is an English colloquialism turned synonym for Malvasia - an umbrella name for multiple varieties. ‘

In Madeira ‘Malmsey’ is best thought of as a style of wine rather than a varietal.

Most wine bottled as ‘Malmsey’ today is in fact? from where?

Answer 10

Malvasia de São Jorge
Introduced from Bairrada in the 1970’s and officially upgraded from ‘authorized’ to ‘recommended’ by the IVBAM in 2015.

now accounts for 35ha mostly around the central north coast areas of Santana & São Jorge – from which its name derives.

Question 11

Carcavelos DOP

Location?
Style & grapes?
Sweetening method?

1 producer?

Answer 11

Just west of Lisboa, Portugal. Has Suffered at the hands of suburban sprawl—only 25 hectares of vineyard remain.

The wines are fermented dry, then fortified (aguardante) and sweetened with vinho abafado (VDL?) a partially fermented must preserved with alcohol.

White: Min. 75% combined Arinto (most common), Ratinho, and Galego Dourado (rare. 6ha left)

Red: Min. 75% combined Castelão and Preto Martinho (Negra Mole)

Maximum Residual Sugar: 150 g/l
Minimum Aging Requirements: 24 months in wood and 6 months in bottle

Quinta da Bela Vista
Produced mainly from the Galego Dourado variety. 18% abv.

Question 12

What is Sercial known as on the mainland?

Notable planting?

Answer 12

25.5ha
Esgana Cão or “Dog Strangler” because of its ferociously high levels of natural acidity. Generally, the last variety to be harvested and the least productive.

8.6ha @ 800m elevation in Jardim de Serra and 6.4ha at sea level at on the cool north coast around Porto Moniz/Seixal.

dry or extra dry styles.

Older single varietal bottlings can develop a ‘beefy’ / ‘beef stock’ aroma.

Question 13

What is the 2nd most planted grape under Madeira DOP?

Answer 13

Verdelho 60ha

Performs best at cooler conditions and higher altitudes. Has high levels of acidity suitable for producing medium dry styles of Madeira. As a base wine Verdelho exhibits a sub-tropical, almost peachy character with a hint of lime marmalade.

Question 14

Synonyms for Bastardo?

2 shippers of note?

Answer 14

Tinto. Graciosa – Azores, Trousseau – Jura, Merenzao – Galicia & Castilla y León.

As of 2018 there are only 1.34ha remaining as it is very susceptible to disease and low yielding. Can be medium dry to medium sweet.

Barbeito has access via growers to the rare remaining plantings from the north side of the Island. Release’s Riservas aged in pipe [Tres Pipes, 20 yr]

D´Oliveiras have a 1927 medium dry release. Blandy’s have a 1954 release – medium sweet?

Question 15

Terrantez remaining plantings under Madeira DOP?

Producers?

Answer 15

Ravaged by Oidium (1851) and urban sprawl - finicky to grow. 2ha of the remaining 4ha are at Câmara de Lobo.

Branco. Medium dry- Medium sweet.

To date Henriques & Henriques release a 20yr medium dry bottling. Blandy’s do a 1978.

The 1795 vintage produced a prolific output of legendary wines from top shippers that survive to this day. Blandy’s, Barbeito, D’Oliveiras & CVM) the significance compared to the ’82 in Bordeaux?

Question 16

When was Tinta Negra upgraded to a recommended variety under Madeira DOP?

Answer 16

2015 and may now appear on labels.

238ha accounting for nearly 85% of Madeira’s total production.

Formerly called Negramole/Tinta Negra Mole is the island’s workhorse. Capable of producing good quality wines across a wide range of sweetness levels.

Question 17

Madeira DOP

4 ‘Lesser’ Recommended varieties?

Answer 17

Moscatel Graúdo (Moscatel-de-Setúbal/ Muscat of Alexandria) - D’Oliveira 1875 & 1900.

Listrão (Malvasia Rei/ Palomino) - Blandy’s 1977 from Porto Santo’s sandy soils.

Tinta (Tinta da Madeira)
Verdelho Tinto (roxo)

Question 18

Madeira DOP

6 Authorized Castas?

Answer 18

Branco: Caracol, Rio-Grande, Valveirinho

Tinto: Deliciosa, Triunfo &

Complexa 33ha is a Portuguese cross workhorse grape commonly used alongside or instead of Tinta Negra. Also red skinned it provides colour (albeit less) but with more acidity and less astringency than Tinta Negra.

Question 19

Madeira DOP

Location & Climate?

2 biggest viticultural threats?

2 main soil types?

Answer 19

Extinct Volcano 1,861m high 700km from the coast of Morocco. Only 4.2% of the eruption is currently above sea level. Some believe this to be part of the lost continent of Atlantis. The winds are forced to rise and condense over the Island creating the capacete or ‘helmet’ shrouding the middle altitudes in mist.

Sub-tropical. October-March Autumn and winter rain can be torrential. Flashfloods and Oidium (1851) are the biggest threats.

Volcanic soils made up of basalt interspersed with different colour Tufa. There are 2 outcrops of limestone.

Question 20

Madeira DOP

3 smaller growing areas of note from the South Side of the Island?

Answer 20

Jardim do Mar

Faja dos Padres - coastal platform. Malvasia Candida + Terrantez. Foot of Cabo Girão

Jardim da Serra

Question 21

Madeira DOP

South side growing regions?

Answer 21

Calheta, Ponta do Sol, Ribeira Brava, Câmara (Cama) de Lobos (#1), Funchal, Santa Cruz, Machico

Question 22

Madeira DOP

Madeira North Side growing regions?

Answer 22

Porto Moniz, São Vicente (#2), São Jorge (unofficial?), Santana

Porto Moniz is the most North western point of Island

Question 23

What are the ‘Direct Producers’ of Madeira?

Answer 23

Red American Hybrids (Lambrusca?):
Isabella (R)
Jacquet/Jacquez (R)
Cunningham (R)

Became popular post phylloxera (1872) and were noted to have made good quality wines, particular in years when vinifera varieties were disease ridden. Banned for Madeira production in ‘86.

Question 24

Madeira DOP

3 production choices of note?

Answer 24

no skin maceration for drier wines.
Full maceration on skins takes place in auto-vinificators for sweet & med. sweet styles.

Question 25

Madeira DOP

what abv % are sweeter styles fortified at?

abv % of fortification?

min. abv % for wines under DOP?

Answer 25

Arrested at 5-6% abv for sweet wines, and a little higher for dry wines.

All Madeira’s are fortified with a 96% abv neutral grape spirit/brandy from France/Spain up to 17-22% abv.

Question 26

Madeira DOP

Rainwater

aging req?
degree of sweetness req?
colour req?

Answer 26

Maximum 10 years.

Meio Seco/ Medium dry: 1 to 2.5 Baumé = 50-75 g/L

Colour between pale and golden (lighter in style..)

Name as it reads and/or because of the singular softness on the palate. Common US labelling term these were typically in the style shipped to the US in the 18th century – short aging in wood with limited oxidation.

Question 27

Madeira DOP

Colheita/Harvest req?

Answer 27

New category since 2000.

Vintage must appear on the label. A single variety or blend of varieties from the list of recommended grapes may be used.

Minimum 5 years October 31st. Effectively an early bottled ‘Frasqueira’ or vintage wine.

Question 28

Madeira DOP

Frasqueira req?

Evaporation expectations?

Labelling req?

Answer 28

or Garrafeira ‘wine vault’
A single grape variety (from the recommended varieties) and vintage must appear on the label.

20 years in wood (can expect to lose up to 50% in evaporation).

As of 2015 date of bottling must be included on the label – although many have done prior. It is not uncommon for some shippers to bottle Frasqueira’s at different stages – say 20 and 40 years of pipe aging.

Question 29

Madeira DOP

Solera req?

Answer 29

A single grape variety (from the recommended varieties) and vintage of the base wine must appear on the label.

Min. 5 years in the solera, after which 10% may be drawn off each year for a maximum of 10 additions.

Omitted in the ’86 EU changes and then redefined in ’98 – yet to be any releases as the definition has been shunned by the shippers.

Historically traditional Solera was more of a lote system rather than fractional blending.

Question 30

Madeira DOP

Age Indication req?

Answer 30

5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, and Over 50-Year-Old.

Age is a style-indication and is assessed by a tasting panel. Over 20 is rare as they become applicable for frasqueira

Question 31

Madeira DOP

Who invented the Estufagem process?

how does it work?

temperature?

resting peroid?

aging req?

Answer 31

Pantelião Fernandes in 1794. Estufagem is the process. Estufa is the tank.

wine is heated to a temperature of 45-50° C (113-122°F) in large tanks (estufas) and held there for at least three months for a slow caramelization of the sugars.

Once the Estufagem process is completed, the wine enters a period of rest (estágio) for a min. 90 days before being transferred to cask for aging.

(Generally, it is considered that 3 months in a Estufa equates to 2 years in wood).

While Vinho de Estufagem may be bottled after 12 months from the conclusion of the estufagem process; they still must observe the Madeira DOP release date of October 31 of the second year after the harvest.

Question 33

Madeira DOP

Canteiro Process?

Aging req.?

Answer 33

wines are cask aged in ‘Pipas’/lodge pipes (450l-650l? commonly 600?) for a min. 2 years in lodge attics.

Typically, pipes start on the highest and warmest level where evaporation at its highest and then move to a middle and lower level gradually and different intervals (Barros e Sousa). Sometimes this may be different locations and elevations entirely (eg. Barbeito).

While Canteiro require 2 years in wood, and may not be bottled for 36 months after the final fortification the best Vinhos de Canteiro will remain in cask for 20 years or more developing into the rarest and most treasured wines of the island.

Question 34

Traditionally what are the 3 companies involved in the Madeira wine trade?

Answer 34

Production companies: Make the wine, and most are based in Funchal, Madeira’s capital.

Shipping companies: Trade wine, rather than make it, and are usually based in London. A shipper will select wines from a producer, who will then bottle the wine under the shipper’s brand (Broadbent Selections is an example).

Partidistas: Store wine and sell it at maturity to other traders for a profit, make up the third category. Partidistas are similar to the almacenistas of the Sherry trade.

Question 35

Armazéns de Calor

Process?

Producer?

Answer 35

A more delicate variation on the Estufagem.

Wines in either wooden casks or lodge pipes are aged in ‘armazéns de calor’ rooms warmed by nearby tanks or steam pipes rather than the direct heat of the estufa.

This variant technique used exclusively by the Madeira Wine Company (In Funchal), utilizes lower temperatures over a longer period of time—usually 6 months up to one year.

Question 36

What is the body that regulates the harvesting and production methods of Madeira wines?

Answer 36

IVBAM

The Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft Institute of Madeira

Question 37

What is the IGP for the production of un-fortified & dry wines from Madeira & Porto Santo?

varieties and styles of production?

Answer 37

Terras Madeirenses IGP

Branco: Verdelho, Arnsburger (Riesling crossing from Geisenheim)

Rosato & Tinto wines from: Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, CS, Tinta Negra and Syrah.

Rarely exported.

Question 38

Madeira DOP

Which of the 8 Shippers is the largest independent producer?

Vineyard of note?

Answer 38

Henriques & Henriques
Est. 1850 but the Henrique family were already large landowners. Largest independent producer and owns significant vineyard holdings as opposed to others (Quinta Grande - South side just west of Funchal).

Same ownership as Justino’s although managed as independent companies.

Originally started as a partidista and then started bottling under their own name in 1912 when the 2 sons took over.

Quinta Grande: 10 ha of Verdelho at 700m, largest single vineyard on the Island. Also, the first to be fully mechanized.

‘In Madeira there are only two names…’

Question 39

Madeira DOP

Which is the largest shipper?

Answer 39

Vinhos Justino Henriques/ Justino’s
1870 by Justino Henriques as ‘Vinhos Justino Henriques’. Same ownership as H&H but managed as independent companies.

Significant holdings from a number of now defunct shippers such as Companhia Vinicola da Madeira CVM. Own no vineyards, buy fruit from over 1,000 growers.

Largest shipper/producer – responsible for half of madeira’s exports.

Also bottle the ‘Broadbent’ label (son of Michael Broadbent). Majority of their production is for the export market.

Question 40

Madeira Wine Company/MWC (fmr. MWA)

5 exporters/prodcuers/brands?

Answer 40

Blandy’s (Controlling Interest) - more prestige
Leacock
Cossart Gordon (est. 1745) - more prestige
Miles - rebranded exclusively for Tinta Negra
Shortridge Lawton (Known for Vinho da Roda - now brand discontinued?)

Question 41

Madeirense DOP

What is the #1 selling wine under this appellation?

Answer 41

Atlantis Rose by MWC

100% Tinta Negra, Most of the grapes come from the warmer, south side of Madeira – Câmara de Lobos. Searing acid but balanced with a few grams of RS (7’ish?). Around 10.5% abv.

Question 42

Blandy’s (MWC)

Origins & significance?

3 wines of note?

Answer 42

1811, John Blandy from Dorset. Now 7th generation. Purchased significant stocks during the Oidium crises (1851) of the 1850’s off bust shippers.

Duke of Clarence is their largest and most well known brand.

Blandy’s MCDXIX (1419): Commemorates the discovery of Madeira by Joao Gonclaves Zarco in 1419. Magnums only.

A Blandy’s Boal 1792 Solera was taken on board the HMS Northumberland with Napoleon when he was exiled to St Helena

Question 43

Leacock (MWC)

namesake vineyard and range?

Answer 43

Joined the MWA in 1925. Blandy family acquired their shares after the 1974-75 revolution. The original Alto de Pico de Sao Joao vineyard (5.2ha?) is namesake of their most well-known range ‘St. John’ in rich and dry styles from Tinta Negra.

Question 44

Madeira DOP

Oldest Shipper?

style of note?

Holdings of note?

Answer 44

Cossart Gordon (1949 - MWC)
Est. 1745, Gordon was Scottish & Cossart - who arrived later, was Irish.

Oldest surviving shippers of Madeira wine.
Typically, slightly drier in styles comparative to Blandy’s as their main market was the US while Blandy’s was the UK (although still were active in the UK). The comparative drier distinction from Blandy’s has been maintained under MWC.

Casa Torre Bella vineyards, near Camara de Lobos.

Russel Manners Gordon married the Countess of Torre Bella in 1857; and in doing so had to adopt Portuguese nationality losing his British Nationality and partnership in the firm Cossart, Gordon & Co.

Question 45

Which Madeira Shipper is the biggest in the Japanese market and whose importer is a a shareholder?

4 bottlings/holdings of note?

Answer 45

Barbeito
1945, Mario Barbeito formerly of CVM. Now 3rd generation. Kinoshira are their Japanese importer & SH.

Since the 90’s their market style of power and pungency has been redefined by purity and integrity.

Source Bastardo from growers on the North part of the Is.
‘Fajã dos Padres’ Malvasia Cândida & Terrantaz?
Colheita from a numbered lotes.
Ribeiro Real/ RR Bottlings (fmr Favila family estate)

Question 46

Madeira DOP

Second oldest Shipper?

Answer 46

D’Oliveira
1850. Currently 5th generation. Like others incorporates a series of rather old firms dating back to 1820 right up to 2013 with the acquisition of Barros e Sousa (botteled and marketed separately).

Only began exporting in 1986. No longer own vineyards, buy fruit from over 100 growers. 70-80% of production is Tinta Negra.

Their dated wines are powerful and concentrated due to long cask aging – often with a charming rusticity.
Have older, rarer Moscatel Graudo (sweet?) bottlings. 1875 & 1900.

Question 47

Madeira DOP

Which producer was technically a partidista up until 2013?

Answer 47

Barros e Sousa
Funchal. Est 1920’s.. Bought by D’Oliveira’s in 2013 prior had never been registered as a shipper and were technically a partidista and thus only supposed to sell wines on the island hence their slight illusiveness.

Epitome of Artisinal and small production. Less than 300 cases a year. Own no vineyards but long-term contracts with growers. Owned no press (used neighbouring D’Oliveira’s). Fermented in old casks in the courtyard. No stainless steel, no temperature control, no filtration and definitely no estufa (some labels advertise this with a reward to prove otherwise). All aged in pipe in 3 storied lodge: 10 years on the top floor, 30 years on the middle, before finally the bottom. 40–100-year-old Pipes, encrusted with tartrates – never washed and only ever used for the same varieties. Hand bottled and stencilled ‘ABSL’ for Artur Barros e Sousa. Some wines can have a rusticity to them, although not surprising given the style. Yet to be seen if D’Oliveira alter the style.

Notably have maintained bottlings from the rarer varieties such as Terrantez, Moscatel, Bastardo and Listrao (Palomino) from Porto Santo.

Question 48

Madeira DOP

Newest Shipper?

Answer 48

Madeira Vintners
Starting as a farming co-operative (CAF) in 1951 faced with a surplus of stocks they decided to transition into a shipping as well in 2012 (newest in 80 years). Adega at Sao Martinho.

The company’s all-woman team - viticulturists and winemaker.

Focus on high quality 3-year-old and 5-year-old Madeiras and single harvest Colheitas, including Listrão sourced from Porto Santo. Made in a lighter, fresher style with lovely clarity of fruit and purposefully made with a lower alcohol content.

Question 49

Madeira DOP

What Brand under MWC is now a specialist? expand?

Answer 49

Miles (MWC)
1814. Joined the MWA in 1949 also. Smallest of the 4 main brands within MWC. Rebranded exclusively for varietal wines from Tinta Negra; aged blends and frasqueira. Older bottles under ‘Rutherford & Miles’ occasionally resurface.

• Frasqueira Tinta Negra ’95, ’96, ’99, ‘00 - all rich

Question 50

Madeira DOP

Extra seco/ Extra dry?

Seco/ Dry?

Meio Seco/ Medium dry?

Doce/ Sweet/ Rich?

note only the Baumé is regulated and NOT the RS

Answer 50

Extra seco/ Extra dry: Less than 0.5 Baumé = 0-15 g/L

Seco/ Dry: Less than 1.5 Baumé = 20-50 g/L

Meio Seco/ Medium dry: 1 to 2.5 Baumé = 50-75 g/L

Meio doce/ Medium sweet/ Medium Rich: 2.5 to 3.5 Baumé = 75-100 g/L

Doce/ Sweet/ Rich: Above 3.5 Baumé = 100 g/L

Drier Madeira’s are best served cool or slightly chilled at 6-8. 18-20 is best for the sweeter style.

Question 51

Madeira DOP

Lote?

Cartola?

Arrobo?

Armazem?

Answer 51

A ‘Lot’ or parcel of wine, the basis or part of a blend.

‘Top hat’ A 100l barrel that sits on top of the conteiro; naturally it develops much faster. Barbeito bottles some?

Boiled down must used for sweetening.

Warehouse or wine store

Question 52

Madeira DOP

Multi vintage blends most contain how much of/if variety stated?

Vintage statements?

Answer 52

85%

100%: Frasqueira & Solera?

If Stated Colheita’s also - but Colheita’s can also be blends.