exam 3 Flashcards

Question

An emergent coast can be caused by Quiz 3-5

Answer 1

all of these.

Answer 2

barrier island.

Answer 3

pocket beach

Answer 4

drowned river valley.

Answer 5

all of the above are submergent coasts

Answer 6

backshore – berm – foreshore – offshore

Answer 7

has been completely replaced by longshore transport by waves.

Answer 8

sand spit.

Answer 9

a fast current that takes water away from the beach.

Answer 10

submarine canyons.

Answer 11

to the north

Answer 12

deposition

Answer 13

deposition, erosion

Answer 14

ongshore transport of sand fills in the harbor.

Answer 15

erosion of the beach in front of the wall.

Answer 16

Beach replenishment

Answer 17

a portion of the ocean that is semi-isolated and diluted by fresh water.

Answer 18

High wave energy makes good beaches for tourists.

Answer 19

size of the river water depth of the estuary tide range

Answer 20

a well-mixed estuary.

Answer 21

salt wedge

Answer 22

greater than

Answer 23

as both nursery and habitat areas for many birds and fish.

Answer 24

excessive nutrients leading to algal blooms that later decay.

Answer 25

The pollution is coming from thousands of small sources difficult to identify or correct.

Answer 26

excessive sediments

Answer 27

an old closed manufacturing plant.

Answer 28

floating tubes used to contain floating oil spills.

Answer 29

oil washed into the ocean from oil spilled everyday by cars on streets and parking lots.

Answer 30

Breaks up an oil spill so it won’t wash ashore.

Answer 31

oil skimmer

Answer 32

All of the above are made from hydrocarbons

Answer 33

moderately successful in quiet water

Answer 34

the high part of a wave

Answer 35

low part of the wave

Answer 36

the horizontal distance between two wave crests or between two wave troughs (both are the same)

Answer 37

vertical distance between the crest and trough also equal to 1/2 the wave height

Answer 38

- time needed for two successive wave crests to pass - measured with a stopwatch. - speed=distance(miles) per time(hour) how long it takes for one wavelength to pass(usually seconds)

Answer 39

water does move as the wave passes but ends up in about the same place after the wave has gone by. out in the open ocean the water moves in a circular orbit as the wave goes by

Answer 40

wave that does not reach the bottom wave in water deeper that one-half the wavelength need to know both the water depth and wavelength to determine whether or not a wave is a deep-water wave orbital waves.

Answer 41

When the water is shallower than 1/20th the wavelength, it is considered a shallow-water wave and the water depth is the most important factor. So a shallow-water wave is any wave in water less than 1/20th the wavelength. Like the definition of a deep-water wave, both water depth and wavelength are needed to determine if a wave is a shallow-water wave. A wave on the surface of the water whose wavelength is at least 20 times water depth. The bottom affects the orbit of water particles, and speed is determined by water depth

Answer 42

The plunging breakers occur where the water goes from deep to shallow over a short distance.

Answer 43

produced spilling breakers in a shallow bay where the sea floor shallowed over a long distance

Answer 44

Wave refraction means most waves approach the beach at relatively small angles, regardless of where the waves come from. However, the process doesn't have a chance to completely straighten the waves so they almost never come in perfectly parallel to the beach. Wave refraction results when one part of a wave (off the points of land here) slows down while the rest of the wave, still a deep-water wave, does not. On an irregular coast, the result is a concentration of wave energy on the headland (which sticks out) and dispersal of energy in the quiet pocket beaches (in between the headlands).

Answer 45

The stronger the wind, the more force it can apply to the water. Therefore, faster winds push up larger waves.

Answer 46

The wind duration refers to how long (in time) the wind blows. Is it just a single gust of wind? Then the waves will be fairly small, even if the wind is very strong. If the wind blows for days, then waves can be pushed higher and higher until large waves result.

Answer 47

The fetch refers to the continuous distance the wind blows. Since the waves are constantly moving, the wind must keep pushing as it moves to make a big wave. If the wave runs into land too soon, then a large wave will never be built. So small bays or lakes won't ever get really large waves because the fetch is too short. A really large fetch, like the Pacific Ocean, allows really large waves to be built.

Answer 48

Storms at sea produce most of the waves that come breaking against the shore. Storms have strong winds (1. wind speed), they blow for several days (2. wind duration), and they are very large, traveling across hundreds of miles (3. fetch). A given wind speed, however, has a maximum wave height that it can build because the energy needed to make a wave bigger increases as wave height increases. Given sufficient fetch and time, a 10 knot wind (a light breeze, knot equals nautical miles per hour, 1 nautical mile is about 1.1 miles) will make waves with an average height of 1.2 m but a 30 knot wind (a small storm) will make waves that average 5.8 m All of the really large waves (greater than 4 m or 13 ft) start during storms.

Answer 49

By contrast, smaller-size waves, like the ever present swells (1 m tall), however, can also start with the trade winds, particularly in the Pacific Ocean. The trade winds are not terribly strong winds, but they blow for months and years at a time across thousands of miles of open ocean. This extreme duration and fetch compensates for the lower wind speed and generates some of the open ocean waves known as swells. Storm waves get smaller as they spread out from the storm and cross the vast expanse of ocean; this is another way to make swells.

Answer 50

Crest (high point) Trough (low point) Wavelength (distance between two trough) Wave height (vertical distance between crest/trough) Wave period = time it takes one wavelength to pass

Answer 51

When the water depth first becomes less than one-half the wavelength, the wave "feels the bottom" and the orbits are compressed into flattened ovals (properly ellipses), sort of like a beach ball with a big kid sitting on it. The shape of the orbit, therefore, is an easy way to tell whether a wave is a deep-water wave: if the orbit is a round circle, it is a deep-water wave; otherwise it is either an intermediate water wave or a shallow-water wave.

Answer 52

A deep-water wave is a wave that does not reach to the bottom. Since, the orbit extends to a depth of one-half the wavelength, a deep-water wave is a wave in water deeper than one-half the wavelength. A deep-water wave does not, therefore, require deep water--just water deeper than one-half the wavelength If they do not touch the sea floor, then the wave proceeds without changing. Once the wave orbits encounter the sea floor, the free motion of the wave is interfered with and the wave starts to change. When the water depth first becomes less than one-half the wavelength, the wave "feels the bottom" and the orbits are compressed into flattened ovals (properly ellipses) if the orbit is a round circle, it is a deep-water wave; otherwise it is either an intermediate water wave or a shallow-water wave. While the properties of a deep water wave are dictated by the generating force (usually wind; see below), as it changes by interaction with the bottom, the water depth becomes increasingly important. When the water is shallower than 1/20th the wavelength, it is considered a shallow-water wave and the water depth is the most important factor. So a shallow-water wave is any wave in water less than 1/20th the wavelength

Answer 53

When the water depth first becomes less than one-half the wavelength, the wave "feels the bottom" and the orbits are compressed into flattened ovals (properly ellipses) Because the orbit is not free to move, the wave is forced to slow down. Remember that the speed = wavelength / period and that the period is constant and cannot change. Therefore, when a wave slows down, the wavelength must also decrease to keep this equation true. And this is what we observe when we look at waves coming onto the shore. They bunch together with the wavelengths getting steadily shorter as the waves "feel" more of the bottom. However, the energy of the wave doesn't change much, so the same amount of energy is squished into a shorter wavelength, which makes the wave height get larger.

Answer 54

As the wave height increases, eventually the wave will become too steep and the wave will break, with the crest curling over and crashing on the adjacent trough. The base of the wave is slowing more than the top of the wave because it is the base that is "feeling" the bottom. Therefore, the high point (the crest) is going faster and outruns the rest of the wave. Sometimes the wave curls over in a spectacular plunging or curling breaker

Answer 55

In general, the more wind that pushes at the water the bigger the wave will get (meaning higher). Wind speed: The stronger the wind, the more force it can apply to the water. Therefore, faster winds push up larger waves. The wind duration refers to how long (in time) the wind blows. Is it just a single gust of wind? Then the waves will be fairly small, even if the wind is very strong. If the wind blows for days, then waves can be pushed higher and higher until large waves result. The fetch refers to the continuous distance the wind blows. Since the waves are constantly moving, the wind must keep pushing as it moves to make a big wave. If the wave runs into land too soon, then a large wave will never be built. So small bays or lakes won't ever get really large waves because the fetch is too short. A really large fetch, like the Pacific Ocean, allows really large waves to be built.

Answer 56

is an enormous wave that forms when the sea floor somehow moves, displacing the water above it vast majority occur in the Pacific ocean

Answer 57

Generally, the sea floor doesn't actually move very far, so the tsunamis waves start with low wave height, only 1 or 2 m. The wavelength, however, is very large, somewhere between 100 and 200 km (60-120 miles). Because of this long wavelength, a tsunamis is a shallow-water wave even out over the abyssal plains. (Remember, a shallow-water wave is a wave in water shallower than 1/20th the wavelength. 1/20th of 100 km = 5 km (or 5000 m) and the average depth of the Pacific Ocean is only 4028 m.)

Answer 58

The most common location for a large underwater earthquake is in a subduction zone, because mid-oceanic ridges are too hot and soft to store enough energy for a large earthquake. The old, cold plates going down subduction zones, on the other hand, can store a lot of energy before they break and cause an earthquake. In addition, the kind of movement on a subduction zone (convergent) tends to move the sea floor up or down more than the side-by-side motion of a spreading center. Just about every subduction zone in the Pacific has generated a tsunamis in historic times. Japan is more prone to these waves because it sits nearly on top of three subduction zones and faces even more of them across the expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

Answer 59

the Pacific Ocean is ringed by subduction zones while the Indian and Atlantic Oceans have very few tsunamis also known as seismic sea waves, are a series of enormous waves created by an underwater disturbance such as an earthquake, landslide, volcanic eruption, or meteorite. A tsunami can move hundreds of miles per hour in the open ocean and smash into land with waves as high as 100 feet or more. in a subduction zone, an oceanic plate dives beneath another plate the contact between these two plates doesn't slide smoothly causing the upper plate to distort. Eventually the distortion is so great that the upper plate breaks free, causing an earthquake and moving the sea floor upward When the sea floor moves, the entire water column above it also moves--the disturbed water moves away from the starting point as rings of waves--and these waves will travel until they are stopped by land, even if that is thousands of miles across the Pacific Ocean. Generally, the sea floor doesn't actually move very far, so the tsunamis waves start with low wave height, only 1 or 2 m. The wavelength, however, is very large, somewhere between 100 and 200 km (60-120 miles). So the energy of a tsunamis is much greater than that of a wind-driven wave because it involves the entire ocean, not just the surface layer. Tsunamis have a period of 10 to 20 minutes and in the open ocean travel at around 760 kph (480 mph)!

Answer 60

Generally, the sea floor doesn't actually move very far, so the tsunamis waves start with low wave height, only 1 or 2 m. The wavelength, however, is very large, somewhere between 100 and 200 km (60-120 miles). Because of this long wavelength, a tsunamis is a shallow-water wave even out over the abyssal plains. (Remember, a shallow-water wave is a wave in water shallower than 1/20th the wavelength. 1/20th of 100 km = 5 km (or 5000 m) and the average depth of the Pacific Ocean is only 4028 m.) So the energy of a tsunamis is much greater than that of a wind-driven wave because it involves the entire ocean, not just the surface layer. Tsunamis have a period of 10 to 20 minutes and in the open ocean travel at around 760 kph (480 mph)!. And, just like that rock in a pond, there are several waves, not just one. Often the second, or even third, wave is the largest. Also, as the wave travels, it spreads out and gets smaller. The worst damage occurs to the closest land.

Answer 61

Some coastal areas have one high tide and one low tide per day, a little over 12 hours apart. These are called diurnal tides (from the Latin word for "day") because the complete cycle takes one day to complete

Answer 62

More commonly, there are two high tides per day and two low tides. When the two high tides are about the same height (and the two low tides are about the same height), the tides are called semidiurnal tides because there are two complete tide cycles per day

Answer 63

In many areas, the two high tides and the two low tides are of different elevations. Where the difference in elevation between successive high (or low) tides is fairly large, The word mixed, therefore, is used to indicate the fact that the high tides are of mixed height (and the lows, too).

Answer 64

a rising tide, which occurs as low tide rises to high tide. Signifies a strong current, generally toward land.

Answer 65

A falling tide, which occurs as high tide falls to low tide. Signifies a strong current, generally away from land.

Answer 66

the brief time when there are no tide currents. Coincides with either a high tide or a low tide.

Answer 67

Movement of water toward and away from the coast due to the rise and fall of the tides

Answer 68

high water level between two lower water levels. For mixed semidiurnal tides, we distinguish between higher high tide and lower high tide.

Answer 69

low water level between two higher water levels For mixed semidiurnal tides, we distinguish between higher low tide and lower low tide.

Answer 70

zero elevation defined as Mean low tide (for areas with diurnal/semidiurnal tides) or Mean Low-Low tide (for areas with mixed tides)

Answer 71

A low tide that is lower than the average. Since tides are measured relative to sea level, and sea level equals the average low tide, any tide below average has a negative elevation. For example -1.2 ft. Hence the name, "minus tide"

Answer 72

The equilibrium tide model looks at the orbital relationship between the earth, the moon, and the sun as the earth turns on its axis. the force of gravity combined with the earth-moon coupled system creating a centrifugal force resulting in bulges under which the earth rotates

Answer 73

factors back in all the complexity left out of equilibrium tides, and so that it closely matches the real world--these are things like the shape and size of the ocean or inlet, the Coriolis Effect, the role of friction, the path the water takes moving in and out of coastal areas, and so on.

Answer 74

The tides result from the gravity and centrifugal forces of the moon and sun pulling the water of the ocean into a large wave with two crests, one lined up under the moon and the other on the opposite side of the earth from the moon. The earth spins under this wave, one rotation every 24 hours, so the water rises and falls as we spin under first the crest and then under the trough of the tide wave

Answer 75

The tides result from the gravity and centrifugal forces of the moon and sun pulling the water of the ocean into a large wave with two crests, one lined up under the moon and the other on the opposite side of the earth from the moon. The earth spins under this wave, one rotation every 24 hours, so the water rises and falls as we spin under first the crest and then under the trough of the tide wave

Answer 76

The smaller tide range that occurs between spring tides are called neap tides which occur at the first quarter moon and the last quarter moon

Answer 77

When the tide range is at the maximum, the tides are called spring tides. This occurs every two weeks, about the times of a new moon and a full moon

Answer 78

is a deposit of the shore area

Answer 79

is above the high tide shoreline and is covered with water only during storms

Answer 80

is the portion exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide

Answer 81

is the dry, gently sloping region at the door of the costal cliff or dunes

Answer 82

A structure protecting a nearshore area from breaking waves, one was constructed in Santa Barbara, Cali

Answer 83

A structure that projects into the water and protects the shore, similarly built to a groin

Answer 84

a type of hard stabilization, built perpendicular to a coastline and are specifically designed to trap sand moving along the coast in longshore transport

Answer 85

A barrier constructed to prevent waves from reaching the area behind the wall. Its purpose is to defend property from the force of breaking waves.

Answer 86

when sand is added to the beach to replace lost sediment

Answer 87

It blocks the waves, stopping longshore transport. this causes the sand to build up, requiring dredging

Answer 88

Jetty- 90 degrees from shore, deliberately stops longshore transport and builds a big beach but erodes the latter side Groin- Short and 90 degrees from shore, built to block the sand from filling the harbor and causes erosion down the beach

Answer 89

As the crest of a tsunami wave builds, it draws into itself water from both sides of the crest. You can see the same thing happen anytime a wave comes ashore: first the water recedes a bit, pulled into the rising crest, and then the crest comes crashing down. Open ocean is safe because tsunamis are undetectable there, being only 1-2 m

Answer 90

Beach replenishment is the manual effort of bringing in sand to make nice, big beaches. However, when winter comes the large storm and winter waves erode the beach, taking away the sand. This is repeated anyway because of tourism and keeping the local economy In motion

Answer 91

drowned river valley

Answer 92

of or found in fresh water; not of the sea.

Answer 93

of or found in salt water; living in the sea.

Answer 94

(vertical difference between increase and decrease of tide) | -When the sun and moon are aligned, the tide generating forces of the sun and moon are combined

Answer 95

a large natural stream of water flowing in a channel to the sea, a lake, or another such stream.

Answer 96

a disturbance on the surface of a liquid body, as the sea or a lake, in the form of a moving ridge or swell

Answer 97

occur where a large river enters a fairly deep bay with weak tide currents.

Answer 98

Well mixed- occur where smaller rivers enter shallow estuaries with a relatively large tide range, being rapidly mixed with salrwater, producing a gradual increase in salinity with distance from the river

Answer 99

So you have a large river entering into a shallow estuary with a large tide range, or a small river entering a deep estuary with a small tide range. This intermediate condition is much more common than either extreme.

Answer 100

these are coastal land areas covered with water all or part of the year- include river mouths, inlets, bays, sounds, coastal marshes, and mangrove forests. They are some of the earth's most productive ecosystems and nurseries for species

Answer 101

A measure of the turnover time for fresh water in an estuary.

Answer 102

Salt Wedge - occur where a large river enters a fairly deep bay with weak tide currents. Well mixed- occur where smaller rivers enter shallow estuaries with a relatively large tide range, being rapidly mixed with salrwater, producing a gradual increase in salinity with distance from the river Partially - So you have a large river entering into a shallow estuary with a large tide range, or a small river entering a deep estuary with a small tide range. This intermediate condition is much more common than either extreme.

Answer 103

- The rivers bring into the estuary nutrients as well as freshwater. This constant influx of new nutrients allows lots of plant growth - Where there are plants for food, there will also be animals to eat those plants. The protected, nutrient-rich waters of estuaries are important habitat and nurseries for a wide variety of marine life.

Answer 104

- abundant wildlife and available freshwater. | - building large cities require a great deal of land. And much of the available land is along the shores of the estuary

Answer 105

1. Size of estuary 2. Amount of river flow 3. Tide range

Answer 106

the area from which a single stream or river drains all of the water

Answer 107

Pollution from a specific location which is relatively easy to regulate

Answer 108

lead & mercury,

Answer 109

matter that settles to the bottom of a liquid

Answer 110

are ions needed by plants; in other words, fertilizer. Nutrients are a critical part of marine ecosystems because without them, plants can't grow.

Answer 111

refuse liquids or waste matter usually carried off by sewers.

Answer 112

A relatively small and simple sewage treatment system, made up of a septic tank and a leach field, often used for homes in rural areas

Answer 113

Point source- Pollution from a specific location which is relatively easy to regulate Non-point source- Having a little bit coming from every place such as cars, mowers, or farms. Hardest to regulate Chesapeake bar is difficult to control because even with stopping the point sources, there are many, many drainage basins from places all around in multiple states that drain various non point toxic substances

Answer 114

- Too much leads to Algal bloom, which uses up all of the oxygen in the water and creates a dead zone. This kills off all oysters and cause wildlife to leave - Sources include fertilizers, untreated or under treated sewage - Excessive nutrients is the greatest problem today

Answer 115

They filter the water

Answer 116

organic molecules consisting of only carbon and hydrogen

Answer 117

Liquid petroleum removed from the ground

Answer 118

a ship designed to carry oil in bulk.

Answer 119

uncontrolled release of oil and natural gas at well after pressure control has failed at the production site

Answer 120

a film or layer of oil floating on an expanse of water, especially one that has leaked or been discharged from a ship.

Answer 121

A part of a cargo ship that stores liquid waste as a means for not polluting the ocean environment

Answer 122

collects the oil off the surface of the water.

Answer 123

Vessel picks up oil and water, essentially vacuuming the water All best in calm water

Answer 124

a liquid or gas used to disperse small particles in a medium.

Answer 125

1. Gasoline/Diesal fuels 2. Lubricants 3. Plastics made from unused oil

Answer 126

Non point source- include cars, changing the oil, or tankers constantly moving oil Point source- Drilling rigs

Answer 127

1. Taking a tanker plane to disperse the oil and break it up 2. Oil Booms- a floating barricade used to collect oil and then lighting on fire 3. Skimmer- Vessel picks up oil and water, essentially vacuuming the water All best in calm water 4. Collecting by hand- most effective on land

Answer 128

This is more difficult to clean up because it is non point source and hard to control. This is more dangerous than larger spills because it causes more oil to be put in the ocean and is next to impossible to regulate. Large spills only account for 3% of oil in the ocean

Answer 129

24 hours and 50 minutes

Answer 130

When the force of the moon and force of the sun work against each other which makes a lower tide range. high tides are lower and low tides are lower

Answer 131

When the force of the moon and the force of the sun are working together, cause higher high tides and lower low tides.

Answer 132

the part of the land near the sea; the edge of the land.

Answer 133

Warm, nutrient-rich, shallow part of the ocean that extends from the high-tide mark on land to the edge of the continental shelf.

Answer 134

a continental margin that is not a plate boundary

Answer 135

A continental margin that is colliding with another plate and as a result is geologically active

Answer 136

a coastline that is flooding and receding Caused either by the water level actually rising (transgression) or by the land getting lower (Subsidence)

Answer 137

an expanse of sand or pebbles along a shore.

Answer 138

a steep coastal slope created by the erosive power of waves at its base

Answer 139

a hollow eroded by the impact of waves at the foot of a cliff

Answer 140

flat section of rock formed by the erosion of a sea cliff

Answer 141

a wave-cut platform that is now exposed at the surface of the Earth by a fall in sea level

Answer 142

a coastline that is being elevated above sealevel and building out into the water (progradational) Sea level fall is caused either by the water level actually falling (regression) or by rising of the land ( uplift)

Answer 143

- Water penetrating inland due to rises in sealevel.

Answer 144

A long narrow inlet from the sea between steep cliffs or hills

Answer 145

a long ridge of sand or narrow island that lies parallel to the shore

Answer 146

- Coast that rises out of the sea - Plate tectonics lift the land Ex: Sea cliffs, headlands, pocket beaches, wave cut terrace, uplifted terrace

Answer 147

-Coast sinking into the sea -land goes down or sea level rises Can make barrier islands this way

Answer 148

-Plate tectonics lift the land in N American an ex. is New England Another example is West Coast in America

Answer 149

Sea level rises or land goes down | Gulf coast, S Atlantic coast, all coasts in N American area

Answer 150

Sand is deposited parallel to the breakwater, creating a sort of lump along the beach

Answer 151

Longshore transport is disrupted, causing big beaches where its stopped and eroding beaches down the line