Doors, Windows, Glazing Flashcards
Door design parameters
visual/aural privacy, security, fire resistance, weather protection, control light, sheild from radiation
consider durability, cost, appearance, ease of use, construction method, availability
consider: door, frame, hardware
hinge jamb, strike jamb/strike side
door handedness: always from outside of door, or where hinge isn’t visible; left/right when opening, reverse = swings out toward you
Types of doors
flush, panel, louvered, sash, glass, dutch, french, jalousie
hinged, pivoted, balanced, double acting, pocket, bi-pass, surface/barn, accordian, bi-fold, overhead coiled/roll-up, operable partition, revolving
metal: hollow metal doors - steel faces o/ honeycomb of kraft paper, steel ribs, hardboard, edges of steel channels, can have mineral wool for acoustic damping
wood: swinging/hinged most common, hollow-core are 1-3 veneer layers (wood, plastic, hardboard) on cardboard interior - has stile and rail frame inside + blocking at hardware, solid-core can have cores of particleboard, stave core/solid blocks, mineral core (for fire rating 45 min - 1.5 hrs)
Door frames
metal: steel (used in fire rated frames 1 hr, one pc welded has to go on before partition is constructed, knock-down KD 3 pcs: 2 jambs, 1 head, or slip on - can see jts) or Al (thinner, more elaborate shapes)
wood: more like separate pcs, several different trim profiles can be used, but only get to 20-30-45 min fire rating
All-glass doors
strong glass required, tempered, .5”-.75” thick
can have pivots, hinges, or continuous fittings/shoes, locks often at bottom
all holes cut in factory; cannot be fire-rated; can be exit doors if panic hardware present
Door hardware categories
hanging: hinges, pivots
operating: handles, latchsets, push plates, pull bars
closing: closers, combo pivot/closer
locking: locksets, dead bolts, flush bolts, electric locks, etc.
sealing: weatherstripping, sound seals, smoke seals
protecting: kick plates, corner protection, etc.
Hinges
butt hinges = normal, name comes from attaching to butt end of door, can be surface (on face) or mortise (on butt end), also ‘raised barrel’ for deep insets, ‘swing clear’ to allow full clear width
with or without ball-bearings: low-frequency/standard, high-frequency/heavy wt, fire rated
60” doors/ 2 hinges, 60”-90”/ 3 hinges, 90”-120”/ 4 hinges
Latchsets, locksets
latches secure the door temporarily, locks secure them permanently
mortise lock/latch: slides in at butt edge, more secure than bored, can do both dead bolt in cylindrical lock, latch bolt, can retract w single mech., many locking options
preassembled lock/latch: old-school, slid into notch, usu w latch bolt and auxiliary dead bolt
bored lock/latch: make a hole through the door, cylindrical lock/latch, easy, cheap, not so secure, just a dead locking latch bolt
interconnected: cylindrical latch bolt plus true dead bolt, operate w single mechanism
ADA requires lever handles, backsets are btwn 2.75”-5” typ
Other door hardware
pivots: for where hinges can’t fit or don’t look good
panic hardware: latch action spread across small panel, if rated, then ‘fire exit hardware’
push plates and pull bars: for when latching not needed
closers: auto close the door, all exit doors must have closers, can be integral w pivots, and auto close when smoke/fire detected; hold-open exit doors must have this type of closer
door stops/bumpers: prevent door from knocking into adj things
astragals: center strip that seals double leaf doors
coordinator: part of closing action for double-leaf astragal doors so astr. doesn’t end up on wrong side
flush bolts: to hold in place inactive leaf, not allowed on exit doors
automatic door bottom: seals bottom of door to threshold
weather stripping: neoprene/felt/metal/vinyl/etc. to prevent air, water leaks at edges, can also smoke seal
Electronic hardware
electric lock: keeps lock secured until signal allows its release, always openable from inside per code if exit door, put must have power transfer to door itself to activate mechanism (hard for retrofits)
electric latch: grips latch bolt closed unless electric signal releases, always openable from inside, can have power just in door frame
electric bolt: separate from operating hardare, holds closed until electric signal received, but no way to open from inside w/o signal, not allowed on exit doors
input for signal can be key card/fob, key pad, wall switch, key switch, computer control, automatic time control, security console/button
magnetic hold opens: work like fire-auto-closers, to release when smoke/fire detected, but electronic signal used to maintain magnet most of the time
Hardware finishes
steel, SS (these are required for fire rated hardware), bronze, brass, Al
some bronze is bactericidal
Fire rated doors
generally, if wall is rated, door + all hardware must be rated (usu. just a bit less time than wall)
fire rated doors aka labeled doors, bc the fire rating must be labeled on the door w UL listing
often must have panic devices, esp occ over 50 in assembly/educational
minimal glass, specific types of glass allowed (wire mesh, eg)
fire doors must be self-closing or automatic closing (hold opens released by smoke/fire detection), and must have active latch bolt so can’t be accidentally opened
hardware must be 34”-48” AFF
Metal windows
Al is most common, has probs w galvanic action (use proper accessories) and conduction (use thermal breaks)
steel is used when higher strength or lower profile is needed, more expensive, often bonderized/shop painted
bronze also sometimes
Wood windows
most common, good insulation, easy to install, sometimes have metal or vinyl layer over ext faces to minimize weathering, called ‘clad wood’
species most often pine, fir; sometimes redwood, cypress
operation types: fixed sash, double hung, casement/horizontal pivot, awning, hopper, horizontal slider, vertical pivot, jalousie (glass louvers)
Glass/glazing
glass is the material (silican sand + potash/lime/soda)
glazing is the process of installing or the finish product of having installed glass
