Doors, Windows, Glazing Flashcards
Door design parameters
visual/aural privacy, security, fire resistance, weather protection, control light, sheild from radiation
consider durability, cost, appearance, ease of use, construction method, availability
consider: door, frame, hardware
hinge jamb, strike jamb/strike side
door handedness: always from outside of door, or where hinge isn’t visible; left/right when opening, reverse = swings out toward you
Types of doors
flush, panel, louvered, sash, glass, dutch, french, jalousie
hinged, pivoted, balanced, double acting, pocket, bi-pass, surface/barn, accordian, bi-fold, overhead coiled/roll-up, operable partition, revolving
metal: hollow metal doors - steel faces o/ honeycomb of kraft paper, steel ribs, hardboard, edges of steel channels, can have mineral wool for acoustic damping
wood: swinging/hinged most common, hollow-core are 1-3 veneer layers (wood, plastic, hardboard) on cardboard interior - has stile and rail frame inside + blocking at hardware, solid-core can have cores of particleboard, stave core/solid blocks, mineral core (for fire rating 45 min - 1.5 hrs)
Door frames
metal: steel (used in fire rated frames 1 hr, one pc welded has to go on before partition is constructed, knock-down KD 3 pcs: 2 jambs, 1 head, or slip on - can see jts) or Al (thinner, more elaborate shapes)
wood: more like separate pcs, several different trim profiles can be used, but only get to 20-30-45 min fire rating
All-glass doors
strong glass required, tempered, .5”-.75” thick
can have pivots, hinges, or continuous fittings/shoes, locks often at bottom
all holes cut in factory; cannot be fire-rated; can be exit doors if panic hardware present
Door hardware categories
hanging: hinges, pivots
operating: handles, latchsets, push plates, pull bars
closing: closers, combo pivot/closer
locking: locksets, dead bolts, flush bolts, electric locks, etc.
sealing: weatherstripping, sound seals, smoke seals
protecting: kick plates, corner protection, etc.
Hinges
butt hinges = normal, name comes from attaching to butt end of door, can be surface (on face) or mortise (on butt end), also ‘raised barrel’ for deep insets, ‘swing clear’ to allow full clear width
with or without ball-bearings: low-frequency/standard, high-frequency/heavy wt, fire rated
60” doors/ 2 hinges, 60”-90”/ 3 hinges, 90”-120”/ 4 hinges
Latchsets, locksets
latches secure the door temporarily, locks secure them permanently
mortise lock/latch: slides in at butt edge, more secure than bored, can do both dead bolt in cylindrical lock, latch bolt, can retract w single mech., many locking options
preassembled lock/latch: old-school, slid into notch, usu w latch bolt and auxiliary dead bolt
bored lock/latch: make a hole through the door, cylindrical lock/latch, easy, cheap, not so secure, just a dead locking latch bolt
interconnected: cylindrical latch bolt plus true dead bolt, operate w single mechanism
ADA requires lever handles, backsets are btwn 2.75”-5” typ
Other door hardware
pivots: for where hinges can’t fit or don’t look good
panic hardware: latch action spread across small panel, if rated, then ‘fire exit hardware’
push plates and pull bars: for when latching not needed
closers: auto close the door, all exit doors must have closers, can be integral w pivots, and auto close when smoke/fire detected; hold-open exit doors must have this type of closer
door stops/bumpers: prevent door from knocking into adj things
astragals: center strip that seals double leaf doors
coordinator: part of closing action for double-leaf astragal doors so astr. doesn’t end up on wrong side
flush bolts: to hold in place inactive leaf, not allowed on exit doors
automatic door bottom: seals bottom of door to threshold
weather stripping: neoprene/felt/metal/vinyl/etc. to prevent air, water leaks at edges, can also smoke seal
Electronic hardware
electric lock: keeps lock secured until signal allows its release, always openable from inside per code if exit door, put must have power transfer to door itself to activate mechanism (hard for retrofits)
electric latch: grips latch bolt closed unless electric signal releases, always openable from inside, can have power just in door frame
electric bolt: separate from operating hardare, holds closed until electric signal received, but no way to open from inside w/o signal, not allowed on exit doors
input for signal can be key card/fob, key pad, wall switch, key switch, computer control, automatic time control, security console/button
magnetic hold opens: work like fire-auto-closers, to release when smoke/fire detected, but electronic signal used to maintain magnet most of the time
Hardware finishes
steel, SS (these are required for fire rated hardware), bronze, brass, Al
some bronze is bactericidal
Fire rated doors
generally, if wall is rated, door + all hardware must be rated (usu. just a bit less time than wall)
fire rated doors aka labeled doors, bc the fire rating must be labeled on the door w UL listing
often must have panic devices, esp occ over 50 in assembly/educational
minimal glass, specific types of glass allowed (wire mesh, eg)
fire doors must be self-closing or automatic closing (hold opens released by smoke/fire detection), and must have active latch bolt so can’t be accidentally opened
hardware must be 34”-48” AFF
Metal windows
Al is most common, has probs w galvanic action (use proper accessories) and conduction (use thermal breaks)
steel is used when higher strength or lower profile is needed, more expensive, often bonderized/shop painted
bronze also sometimes
Wood windows
most common, good insulation, easy to install, sometimes have metal or vinyl layer over ext faces to minimize weathering, called ‘clad wood’
species most often pine, fir; sometimes redwood, cypress
operation types: fixed sash, double hung, casement/horizontal pivot, awning, hopper, horizontal slider, vertical pivot, jalousie (glass louvers)
Glass/glazing
glass is the material (silican sand + potash/lime/soda)
glazing is the process of installing or the finish product of having installed glass
Types of glass
float/annealed glass: poured on bed of molten tin
heat strengthened: reheated to 1100 deg F, doubles the strength
tempered: reheated to 1150 deg F and quickly cooled, quadruples the strength, considered safety glass bc doesn’t break into shards
laminated: polyvinyl butyral resin sheets between layers of glass, very strong, bullet resistant, high security, is safety glass, good acoustic control
tinted glass: heat absorbing, bronze, gray, green, blue are standard, used to reduce solar transmission of heat, make sure not unevenly lit, or if so, is tempered
shading coefficient: amt heat through lit/not lit portions of glass
SHGC solar heat gain coefficient: total heat absorbed though window/glazing
low-iron glass: has less iron-oxide than reg float glass, makes it light green, good clarity, optimal light and color transmission
reflective glass: metal/metal oxide coating on one side, can reduce solar heat gain, comes in silver, copper, gold, earth-tone
insulating glass: 2-3 sheets w air spaces (1/4”-1/2”) btwn each layer, much lower U-values
low-emissivity glass: transmits/reflects certain wavelengths of light, allows in light that is visible but not heating (shorter wavelengths), uses metal/metal oxide coating to reflect back most heating/long wavelengths; if reflective surface is hung in an air space, even more effective, but easily damaged
patterned glass: etched or fritted
wire glass: has wire mesh embedded in middle, not a safety glass, but used for fire-rating (bursts bc flames slower)
spandrel glass: opaque strip of glass concealing floor/ceiling assembly, color from ceramic frit, usu insul. behind
electrochromic glazing: changes from opaque to transparent w current applied; on=transparent, off=opaque (milky white or dark), inorganic ceramic thin-film coating is the only real kind, never truly opaque, can’t be privacy glass, can do gradations
suspended particle device (SPD): light abs microscopic particles suspended liquid film that is place btwn glass panels, can be dimmed, gets totally dark
polymer-dispersed liquid crystal film glazing: polymer film btwn pcs of glass, doesn’t stop heat gain
fire-rated glazing: clear ceramic, not safety unless laminated; tempered fire glass, only gets to 30 min, but safety glass; 2-3 layers tempered glass w clear polymer gel btwn, if heated, gel foams and slows heat passage; glass block
Glazing techniques
oldest school: rabbeted frame, held w glazier points, then puttied in
now added: caulk/glazing tape, instead of putty, semi-rigid neoprene blocks replace glazier points
structural glazing gaskets for monolithic frames,
glazing stops allow glazing to be replaced in frame
bite = how deep in frame the glass is
face = width of spacer btwn glass and frame
glazing butt jts, silicone sealant btwn, used when structural support runs behind glass
acrylic foam structural glazing tape can attach glass to framing
spider fittings, make minimalist jts at head/sill, too, only caps show
Code regulations on glazing
limits size of glass for wind loads, fire-rated assembly glass use, human impact safety glass
fire protection rated glazing: NFPA certified systems, OH means fire window openings
fire resistance rated glazed: part of ASTM E119 tested assembly
IBC ratings: D doors, H hose stream test, T temperature rise requirements
Curtain wall, storefront
curtain wall is supports its own weight, but attached to strurcture regularly (each floor) to move with the bldg.
storefront should be restricted to single story, is a normal, if large window
curtain wall can be unit system (prefabbed panels, framed) or stick system (fabbed, glazed in field)
