CONCEPT 49: SUGAR AND TIME MAKE FRUIT JUCIER

Question 1

When fruit is tossed with sugar what does it change?

Answer 1

Flavor and texture.

Question 2

By definition, what are fruits?

Answer 2

The reproductive part of plants, the ones containing all the seeds.

Question 3

What are fruits engineered to do?

Answer 3

Engineered by nature to appeal, enticing animals to eat them and scatter their seeds. When ripe, they’re often brightly colored, filled with sugar, and smell aggressively good.

Question 4

The ripening process of fruit is triggered by what?

Answer 4

The release of ethylene, a simple gas produced by the plant when it is ready to ripen.

Question 5

Do all fruits ripen the same way?

Answer 5

No, there are two different methods.

Question 6

Describe the climacteric method of ripening.

Answer 6

One type of fruit, called climacteric fruit, produces a sudden burst of ethylene right when it is ready to ripen. During this process, fruits like bananas, peaches and pears convert starch into sugar and begin to digest their cell walls, thereby becoming sweeter as they ripen. Most importantly, climacteric fruits continue to ripen in this way even after they’re separated from the plant. For this reason, they are harvested before ripening when they are more capable of handling the rigors of transporting and storage.

Question 7

Describe the non-climacteric method of ripening.

Answer 7

The non-climacteric produces ethylene only very slowly and does not continue to ripen after being separated from the plant. Non-climacteric fruits like blueberries, cherries, and oranges do not convert starch to sugar but must receive it from the parent plant. As a result, non-climacteric fruits will not ripen any further after harvesting and should be purchased as ripe as possible.

Question 8

Is the cell structure of fruit different from the cell structure of vegetables?

Answer 8

No, but unlike vegetables who need salt to release juices, to fruit we add sugar.

Question 9

Is sugar more effective at coaxing fruit to release its liquid?

Answer 9

No, it has 1/10 the coaxing power of salt but is effective nonetheless.

Question 10

When added to fruit (often chopped, with skin removed, to maximize surface area) sugar produces what?

Answer 10

Osmotic pressure, pulling moisture out of the fruit’s cells.

Question 11

Why does sugar pull out moisture from fruit?

Answer 11

Sugar is hygroscopic, so it draws out water by osmotic action, then holds on to the water.

Question 12

Sugar has such a lust for water it will even draw it out of the ______.

Answer 12

air

Question 13

What is it call when sugar is added to fruit to draw out water?

Answer 13

Maceration

Question 14

Does maceration change the texture of fruit? How?

Answer 14

Yes, making it softer and less waterlogged. Cells filled with water are firm, while those containing less water become flaccid and soft, just like a plant wilts when it becomes dry.

Question 15

What can you do with liquid left over from maceration?

Answer 15

The flavor-rich liquid that’s created can be used to moisten dishes like fruit salad or berry shortcakes, or it can be discarded to help keep crumbles and pies from becoming a soggy mess.

Question 16

TEST KITCHEN: 4OZ FRESH STRAWBERRIES SLICED INTO 1/4 INCH PIECES AND PLACED IN A NAPKIN.

Answer 16

Moments after berries came into contact with sugar they started glistening. At the 5 minute mark they’d saturated almost an inch of the napkin; 10 minute mark was an extra 1/2 inch; 15 minutes later they’d hit the napkins edge, registering over 2 inches.

Question 17

List of climacteric fruits.

Answer 17

Apples, apricots, avocados, bananas, cantaloupes, peaches, pears, plums, tomatoes, papayas and mangoes.

Question 18

List of non-climacteric fruits.

Answer 18

Bell peppers, blueberries, cherries, grapefruits, lemons, oranges, grapes, melons, pineapples, raspberries and strawberries.

Question 19

How could you use the juice from macerating on a fruits salad?

Answer 19

As a flavorful dressing.

Question 20

How long should fruit be macerated?

Answer 20

15 to 30 minutes.

Question 21

What could you balance the sweetness in a fruit salad with?

Answer 21

Lime juice or lemon juice.

Question 22

Best way to add herbs, spices and zest to a fruit salad.

Answer 22

Muddle everything with the sugar for even flavor and sprinkle it on the fruit; tossing these flavors right on doesn’t work as well - their texture won’t disappear either unless muddled with the sugar.

Question 23

Is it better to make a simple syrup for fruit salads? Explain.

Answer 23

No, besides the irritation of turning on a stove, water doesn’t make the fruit taste better. Sprinkling on the sugar allows fruit to sit in their own natural juices; they make the salad taste better.

Question 24

How do you remove the skin if peaches aren’t firm enough to peel?

Answer 24

Blanch in a pot of simmering water for 15 seconds.

Question 25

A soggy topping and watery, flavorless filling are the norm for the simple, humble what?

Answer 25

Peach cobbler

Question 26

What type of butter is better for a crumble? Explain.

Answer 26

Melted butter creates a topping that is too sandy. Softened butter, pulsed in the food processor, creates a cohesive dough that is easily broken apart and bakes up crisp.

Question 27

Why should the crumble topping be baked before adding to the peach crumble?

Answer 27

No topping baked on top of steaming fruit will ever become really crisp. The solution is to bake the crumble until it’s lightly browned, then add the baked topping to the fruit and put the crumble in the oven. A sprinkle of sugar over the crumble topping adds a sweet crunch on top.

Question 28

When should you refrigerate peaches? Explain.

Answer 28

Only if they’re ripe. Storing peaches at or below 40 degrees deactivates the enzyme that breaks down pectin during ripening; this creates a mealy texture in the flesh - store peaches on the counter.

Question 29

How long can unbaked biscuits be wrapped and refrigerated?

Answer 29

2 hours

Question 30

Can you use biscuits to make a shortcake?

Answer 30

Yes, but a true shortcake should be sweet and richer; they added more sugar, half-and-half instead of milk, and an egg.

Question 31

What’s the secret to billowy whipped cream?

Answer 31

Starting with cold cream. If the kitchen is warm, chill the mixing bowl and whisk too.

Question 32

Is it better to add sugar before or after whipping cream? Explain.

Answer 32

Sugar added at the onset will dissolve in the creams moisture, sugar added at the end will create a grainy texture.

Question 33

Does adding sugar at the beginning influence the volume of cream? Explain.

Answer 33

While sugar timing doesn’t affect the cream’s ability to whip up properly, the temperature of cream does. Whipping cream introduces air bubbles, whose walls are stabilized by tiny globules of fat. These fat globules hold the air bubbles in place as the whipping continues, forming what eventually becomes light, airy whipped cream. Because heat softens the butterfat in the cream, the liquid fat globules will collapse completely rather than hold together the air bubbles, preventing the cream from whipping up properly; use cream straight from the refrigerator.

Question 34

What is a fruit fool?

Answer 34

Traditional British fruit dessert that is typically made by folding pureed stewed fruit (usually gooseberries) into pastry cream. Modern recipes skip the pastry cream and add whipped cream; the whipped cream fool ends up too lose and watery.

Question 35

How did test kitchen add tang to their berry fool?

Answer 35

They added 1/4 cup of sour cream to their 1 cup of whipped cream.

Question 36

Why do most recipes call for gelatin to be hydrated?

Answer 36

Because adding powdered gelatin directly to hot liquid can cause the exterior of the gelatin granules to hydrate too quickly, making them clump together and preventing the center of the granules from absorbing water.

Question 37

Between yogurt, mascarpone, crème fraîche and sour cream, which ingredient made whipped cream richer and studier?

Answer 37

Tasters preferred sour cream; provided the right degree of richness with a mild tang.

Question 38

What is gelatin?

Answer 38

A pure protein derived from animal bones and connective tissue.

Question 39

What does gelatin do to liquid?

Answer 39

Turns it into a semisolid state by trapping water and slowing its movement.

Question 40

In contrast to other thickening agents, why does gelatin contribute to a unique sensation in the mouth?

Answer 40

Gelatin begins to melt at body temperature, creating a silky texture on the tongue.

Question 41

What is pectin?

Answer 41

A carbohydrate that occurs naturally in fruits and vegetables, holding cell walls together like cement.

Question 42

What happens when pectin is introduced to heat, sugar and acid?

Answer 42

Pectin molecules loosen their grip on the cell walls and bond directly with each other, creating a matrix that traps water in much the same way gelatin molecules do.

Question 43

Do gelatin and pectin require similar temperatures to reverse thickening power? Does pectin work for a fruit fool?

Answer 43

No, pectin requires high temperatures for its thickening action to be reversed. It also proved an unsuitable thickener for the fruit it TK’s fool, requiring so much sugar to work that it turned the berries into jam.

Question 44

How are most natural sweeteners obtained?

Answer 44

By either extracting or squeezing them from these plant sources and then purifying the natural sugars.

Question 45

Natural sweeteners are based on different types of sugar molecules called what?

Answer 45

Mono- and disaccharides, composed of only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.

Question 46

Sweet tasting sugar molecules contain what?

Answer 46

Atoms of hydrogen linked to oxygen (called hydroxy groups) attached to a carbon framework in specific three-dimensional shapes that bind with the sweet taste receptors in your mouth.

Question 47

Glucose 101

Answer 47

Glucose (also known as dextrose) is one of two simple sugar molecules. It is referred to as a monosaccharide. Glucose is found in a variety of living cells, especially fruits and honey. It is also found in corn syrup made from cornstarch. Glucose is only 75% as sweet as sucrose.

Question 48

Fructose 101

Answer 48

Fructose is one of two simple sugar molecules. Like glucose, sucrose is referred to as a monosaccharide. Like glucose, fructose is found in many fruits as well as honey. Fructose is almost 1.5 times sweeter than sucrose.

Question 49

Sucrose 101

Answer 49

This complex sugar contains one molecule and glucose bonded to one molecule of fructose, in what is called a disaccharide. Like glucose and fructose, sucrose is produced by green plants during photosynthesis. All sugar derived from cane or beets, including granulated sugar, consists mainly or entirely of sucrose, as does maple syrup.

Question 50

Buying granulated sugar.

Answer 50

Common granulated sugar starts with either sugar cane or sugar beets. In kitchen tests, they couldn’t tell the difference since the end product, sucrose, is chemically the same no matter the source.

Question 51

Buying superfine sugar.

Answer 51

This superfine sugar has extra small crystals that dissolve quickly, making it a must for drinks. Superfine sugar promotes a melt-in-the-mouth texture in delicate cookies such as shortbread.

Question 52

Buying confectioners’ sugar.

Answer 52

To prevent clumping, this pulverized sugar contains a small amount of cornstarch, making it ideal for dusting over cakes or dissolving in a quick glaze.

Question 53

Buying brown sugar.

Answer 53

Modern brown sugar is basically granulated sugar with molasses added (6.5% for dark and 3.5% for light brown). Except for certain recipes, they are interchangeable, with some slight differences in flavor and texture. Note that some natural brown sugars, such as Demerara and turbinado, are derived from sugar cane (like granulated sugar), but are slightly less processed and thus retain a gentle molasses flavor and larger crystal size.

Question 54

Buying molasses.

Answer 54

Molasses in a byproduct of the process by which sugar cane is refined. Depending on when in the process the molasses is extracted, it can be fairly mild or quite strong. Blackstrap molasses is derived late in the refining process and has a harsh flavor we don’t like in recipes.

Question 55

Buying honey.

Answer 55

Honey has a distinct flavor based on the type of plant from which the bees extracted their nectar. Honey contains water as well as fructose and glucose.

Question 56

Buying corn syrup.

Answer 56

This modern sweetener is derived from cornstarch and contains glucose along with chains of glucose molecules that make it very viscous and keep it from crystallizing like honey or maple syrup. Corn syrup is less sweet than most other sweeteners.

Question 57

Storing granulated sugar, superfine and confectioners’.

Answer 57

Will keep indefinitely in a cool, dry pantry.

Question 58

Storing brown sugar.

Answer 58

Must be kept in an airtight container. Overtime, brown sugar will dry out. To revive hardened brown sugar, cover bowl with plastic wrap and microwave on high power for 10 to 20 seconds. This should soften the sugar enough to measure it; sugar will harden once it cools.

Question 59

Storing honey.

Answer 59

Keeps indefinitely but will crystallize. To return honey to a fluid state, place the open container of honey in a sauce pot filled with 1 inch water and stir over low heat until liquefied.

Question 60

Replace 1 cup of confectioners sugar.

Answer 60

Pulverize 1 cup granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon cornstarch in spice grinder or blender for at least 1 minute; don’t use food processor. Strain through fine-mesh strainer before using.

Question 61

Replace 1 cup of superfine sugar.

Answer 61

Grind 1 cup plus two teaspoons granulated sugar in food processor for 30 seconds.

Question 62

Replace 1 cup light brown sugar.

Answer 62

Pulse 1 cup granulated sugar with 1 teaspoon molasses in food processor until uniformly blended.

Question 63

Replace 1 cup dark brown sugar.

Answer 63

Pulse 1 cup granulated sugar with 2 teaspoons molasses in food processor.