coasts (paper 1) Flashcards

1
Q

what is the coast

A

where the sea meets the land

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2
Q

how are waves caused

A

they are created by the action of wind blowing over the surface of the sea

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3
Q

how does wind create waves

A

the wind causes friction on the surface of the wave
this creats the circular motion of a wave

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4
Q

what is the swash

A

movement of a wave up a beach

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5
Q

what is backwash

A

movement of a wave back down the beach

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6
Q

what causes a wave to break

A

friction at the base of the wave

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7
Q

what is the fetch

A

the distance of which wind blows

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8
Q

what decides the energy of a wave

A
  • velocity of wind
  • duration of wind blowing
  • fetch
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9
Q

what are the two types of waves

A

constructive
destructive

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10
Q

describe the characteristics of a constructive wave

A
  • big wavelength
  • strong swash
  • weak backwash
  • low frequency
  • small fetch
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11
Q

what do constructive waves do

A

they build wide sandy beaches with a gentle gradient, depositing sand

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12
Q

describe the characteristics of a destructive wave

A
  • big waveheight
  • small wavelength
  • bigger fetch
  • weak swash
  • strong backwash
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13
Q

what do destructive waves do

A

they destroy the beach giving it a harsher gradient, erosion is dominant

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14
Q

define erosion in the terms of coasts

A

the proces of wearing away the land by waves

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15
Q

what are the four types of erosion

A
  • solution (chemical)
  • abrassion (rubbing)
  • hydrolic action (power)
  • attrition / corrosion (rocks)
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16
Q

what is solution erosion

A

chemicals breaking down geology

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17
Q

what is abrassion erosion

A

when sediement in waves rub against the coast

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18
Q

what is hydrolic action erosion

A

the force of compressed air are the waves hit the coast, weakening the rock

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19
Q

what is attrition erosion

A

when big rocks break each other down into smaller rocks

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20
Q

why does deposition happen

A

the waves lose energy, dropping the sand, rock particles and pebbles it carries

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21
Q

when is deposition most likely to occur

A
  • waves enter a shallow area
  • waves enter a sheltered area
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22
Q

what are the four types of transportation

A
  • solution (cannot see)
  • suspension (floating)
  • saltation (bounce)
  • traction (roll)
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23
Q

what is long shore drift

A

the movement of sediment along the coast laterally

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24
Q

what labels are needed in an LSD disgram

A
  • swash
  • backwash at 90degrees
  • direction of LSD
  • prevailing wind
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25
what is weathering
the breakdown or decay of rocks by natual processes in situ
26
what are two examples of physical weathering
- freeze thaw - exfoliation
27
what is freeze thaw weathering
water gets into rocks and it expands as it freezes - applying pressure causing the rock to break
28
what are two examples of chemical weathering
- solution - carbonation
29
what is solution weathering
the dissolving action of water on rocks based on the cemicals the water contains
30
what is carbonation weathering
CO2 found in rain waer produces carbonic acid - dissolving limestone
31
what is exfoliation weathering
heat causing rocks to expand, making the rock weak when it contracts as it cools
32
what is biological weathering
- animals - plants
33
how do animals and plants weather
- burrowing moving the soil - birds acidic waste - roots growing
34
what is mass movement
the downhill movement of weathered materials under the force of gravity
35
give four examples of mass movement
- landslides - mudflow - rockfall - rotational slip (clay)
36
decribe a landslide
1 large section of rock moving downhill in one rapid motion
37
describe a mudflow
heavy rain saturating the soil, increasing its wieght giving it a bigger gravitational potential
38
describe a rockfall
small chucks and fragments of rock brocken away from the cliff face often due to freeze thaw
39
decribe a rotational slip
heavy rain saturating clay, casuing slides and a rotational movement down a slope
40
what is a concordent coastline
a coast with only consistance geology
41
what is a discordent coastline
a coast with multiple varied geology stratas
42
what rock are bays made
soft rock
43
what labels go on a wave-cut notch diagram
- overhanging cliff - high tide - low tide - wave-cut notch - retreating coastline
44
describe how a wave-cut notch and platform is formed
- the sea erodes through hydrolic action, the base of the cliff, leading to a wave-cut notch - eventurally the notch becomes larger and the weight of the cliff causes mass movement - the rubble is washed away by longshore drift which smooths out the base by abrasion - the wavecut platform of hard rock is left behind
45
give four examples of hard engineering
- groynes - rock armour - sea wall - gabions
46
give a description of groynes
wooden fences placed at right angles to the beaches to trap sand being moved by longshore drift
47
give a description of rock armour
large boulders piled on the beach absorbe the wave energy reducing erosion of the beach
48
what are the advantages and disadvantages of groynes
+ wider beach + prevents being lost + increase tourism -poor aestetics -accessablitity -only 25years -erosion moves elsewhere
49
what are the advantages and disadvantages of rock armour
-expencive to obtains & transport boulders -specific rock from Norway ~ igneous rock + absorb energy + allows beach build up + long lasting and effective
50
what are the examples of soft engineering methods
- beach nourishment - dune regeneration - dune fencing - coastal realignments
51
what is beach nourishment
adding sand or shingle onto an existing beach to make it taller/wider
52
what are the advantages and disadvantages of beach nourishment
+ looks veyr natural + increases tourism + wider beach = more energy absorbed -constant maintainence -beach must be closed -other methods must be used too
53
what is dune regeneration and fencing
planting more marriam grass to establish dunes and help them deveop adding fences around sand dunes to preserve them from humans and animals
54
what are the advantages and disadvantages of dune regeneration and fencing
+ blends in with nature + cheaper than other methods -time consuming -people can hop the fences -can be damaged in storms
55
what is coastal realignment
controlled flloding to low lying areas controlling the retreat of the coast
56
what does HCCASS stand for
headland, crack, cave, arch, stack, stump
57
describe HCCASS
- large crach opened by hybraulic action in headland - further erosion depens crack into a cave - cave beomce bigger and breaks through forming an arch - the top of the arch colapses ~ too much GPE & weathering - leaves behind a tall stack - weathering causes stack to erode forming a stump
58
what is a spit
an area of deposited sediment from LSD where there is a change in direction of the coastline
59
what is a bar
an area of deposited material from LSD where there is a chnage of direction in the coastline and two headlands ar ejoined together, creating a lagoon behind it
60
what are the depositional landforms of a coast
- spit - bar - tombolo - sand dunes
61
what are sand dunes
hills of sand that can only occur on the coasts, where there is enough sand exposed at low tide to dry out and be blown inland
62
why does sand need to dry out to form sand dunes
the sand becomes lighter to move in the wind
63
desribe the formation of sand dunes
- obsicle causes velocity of air to drop - colomisers ofrm embryo dune - fordunes are formed when embryo dunes colapse and start to grow in height due to denser vegitation - starved of sand and sediment
64
what is the example UK coastline
swanage in dorset
65
where are examples of hard and soft engineering
hard = lyme regis soft = medmerry
66
where is swange loacted
- in a shelted bay - broad sandy beach - different rock types = discordent coastline - headlands and bays with alternating bands of geology - consrtuctive waves
67
what are the features in swanage
- durision head = limestone - baliard point = chalk - stadland bay = soft clay - swanage bay = soft clay