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GEOL 1010 > coasts final exam > Flashcards

coasts final exam Flashcards

1
Q

What drives ocean currents?

A

temperature and salt distribution in water

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2
Q

What affects temperatures?

A

Solar Energy, and Atmosphere

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3
Q

current effected by the wind that has gyres

A

surface currents

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4
Q

What is the Coriolis Effect?

A

The effect that has to deal with earth’s rotation effect the deflection of objects not attached to earth’s ground

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5
Q

How the Coriolis Effect has an impact on the currents in the ocean?

A

The currents in the nothern hemisphere go to the right, or clockwise, while the currents in the southern hemisphere go to the left or counterclockwise

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6
Q

What is thermohaline circulation?

A

When cold water sinks and warm water rises - cold water travels in deep currents

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7
Q

What produces the structure of the waves at the surface?

A

The wind

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8
Q

How do waves get their “shape”?

A

The wave base interacts with friction and begins to tip over these are known as break waves

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9
Q

The bending of waves due to wave interaction; sea floor interacting and changing direction by slowing down; can affect how the coast line looks

A

refraction

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10
Q

What is a long shore current? How does it affect the shore?

A

the movement of sediment along the coast; affects how sand is moved based on how the waves approach the shoreline; waves come at zig zag angle

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11
Q

winds blowing on shore due to high pressure wind and low pressure water ; surface waters drawn downward

A

downwelling

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12
Q

wind blowing off shore due to low pressure wind and water filling the empty gap; deep waters pushed upward

A

upwelling

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13
Q

What causes tides?

A

Gravitational effect by attraction of the earth to the sun and moon

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14
Q

What is a spring tide? what kind of tides are produced

A

Alignment of the earth, Moon, and Sun - high tides

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15
Q

What is a Neap tide? what kind of tides are produced

A

a 90 degree angle between the earth, sun and moon - extra low tides

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16
Q

How does sand migrate as a result of the longshore current?

A

The waves come in at a zig zag angle, and in result moving sediment up the beach and recessing back into the ocean taking some sand with it

17
Q

What is a rocky beach?

A

area where not a lot of sand occurs but lots of wave actions occurs. They are steep and narrow with lack of sediment

18
Q

What are muddy beaches?

A

low wave action areas where mud gets transported to lower energy environments

19
Q

What determines the geology of the different beaches?

A

The sediment and rocks fed into the beach by the waves

20
Q

What are barrier islands? describe the composition and characteristics

A

Area where the ocean is separated by a large sandbar thousands of miles long that are changed constantly. they area created due to build up of sediment interaction

21
Q

what is a spit?

A

Extension of beach into a bay; these will break off and form barrier islands; forms from longshore drift.

22
Q

what are tidal flats?

A

Common in barrier islands; area where there is little water involved next to a shore. Can have water at some point and other it will not; tidal pools can form

23
Q

What are rocky coasts?

A

no beach with narrow rocky bluffs and cliffs; lots of wave action

24
Q

former valleys flooded by marine waters; typical southern river; affected by sea level rising and taking over

A

Estuaries

25
Q

U shaped valleys filled with sea water due to glacial development; flooded as sea levels rose; common along rocky coastlines in polar and subpolar regions

A

Fjords

26
Q

gentle slopes, low wave action, and extended vegetation; plant directly in the water

A

wetland coasts

27
Q

calcite rich structures with skins of living organisms; sensitive to carbon dioxide; in tropical waters and break up waves

A

reefs

28
Q

what is the role of plate tectonics and coastlines?

A

can have active margin shorelines where the rocky coasts are uplifted due to subduction zones; or passive margin shorelines that form due to continental and oceanic crust colliding and developing flat areas

29
Q

what are the structural approaches to control for beach erosion?

A

build groins, jetties, or sea walls, OR provide beach nourishment

30
Q

Wall sticking out perpendicular to the beach,interupts water flow and sediment distribution

A

groin

31
Q

constructed in pairs to control sand deposition, wave erosion, and protect shorelines

A

jetties

32
Q

concrete structure meant to stabilize and control erosion effects of waves

A

sea wall

33
Q

How do humans go about pumping sand back into the water?

A

Pump sand from off shore on shore, but is bad because it can be washed away

34
Q

How do storms affect shorelines?

A

Storms can destroy barrier islands and cause massive erosion and destruction of sediment and shape

GEOL 1010 (18 decks)

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