Coasts Flashcards
What is a high energy environment?
exposed coasts, facing prevailing winds with long wave fetches resulting in powerful waves.
where the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
They create rocky coasts
What are some landforms that are created in high energy environments?
Headlands
Cliffs
Shoreline platforms
Name a high energy environment
Coasts facing the Atlantic where the waves are powerful all year - Cornwall
What is a low energy coastline?
Coasts where the waves are less powerful or where the coast is sheltered from large waves
The rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion
Sandy and estuarine coasts found
What are some landforms that are created in low energy environments?
Beaches
Spits
Coastal plains
What is the coastal system?
The process of the changing coastline which is constant
Inputs for the coastal system
Marine - waves, tides, storm surges
Atmospheric - weather, climate
Terrestrial - Rock type, structure, tectonic activity
People - human activity, coastal management
Processes at the coastal system
Weathering Mass movement Erosion Transport Deposition
Outputs at the coastal system
Erosional landforms
Depositional landforms
Types of coasts
Structure of land in north and west
Rocky coasts harder older rock resistant to Atlantic erosion rocky coastline can withstand storms High energy coastlines
Types of rocks in the north and west
Igneous rock - basalt and granite
Older compacted sedimentary rocks - old red sandstone
metamorphic rocks - slates and schists
Structure of land in south and east
Weaker and younger sedimentary rocks - chalk, clay, sandstone
Mostly low lying sanding beaches
Low energy environments
Example of coastal plain
The Wash - area of low, flat relief
Largest estuary in UK
Tidal creeks, mudflats, salt marshes, lagoons
Littoral zone
the boundary between the land and sea
Order of littoral zone - land to sea
Back shore, foreshore, near shore, offshore
Which area of the littoral zone are effected the most?
Back shore and foreshore - They experience the most changes as it is where the most human activity occurs
Back shore
usually above influence of waves
Foreshore
Inter-tidal or surf zone
Nearshore
Breaker zone - zone of breaking waves
Offshore
Beyond influence of waves
Why is the littoral zone constantly changing?
due to dynamic interaction between sea processes
Long term factors of changing littoral zone
Changes in sea level
Climate change
short term factors of changing littoral zone
Individual waves
daily tides
seasonal storms
How can be coasts classified?
Geology
Formation processes
Balance of erosion and deposition
Sea level change
How can be coasts classified? - geology
Rock type and structure can create rocky/sandy/concordant/discordant
How can be coasts classified? - formation processes
Primary coasts - land based processes (river deposition)
Secondary coasts - marine based processes (wave action)
How can be coasts classified? - balance of erosion and deposition
Erosional or depsotional coasts
How can be coasts classified? - sea level change
submergent or emergent
Different sediment supplies
Cliff eroding
tidal current which picks up glacial deposits from shallow sea floor
from other coasts
Rivers discharge into coastal area
Sediment cells
Created when sediment comes from two directions from North and East
Strata
layers of rock
Bedding planes
These are natural breaks in strata, caused by gaps in time during periods of rock formation (horizontal cracks)
Joints
These are fractures, caused either by contraction as sediments dry out or by earth movements during vertical uplift
Folds
Formed by pressure during tectonic activity, makes rocks buckle and crumple
Faults
Formed when stress or pressure to which a rock is subjected, exceeds its internal strength, causing it to fracture - the faults then move or slips along fault plains
dip
the refers to the angle which strata lie - horizontally, vertically, dipping towards or away from sea
Cliff profiles - marine erosion dominated characteristics
Steep face
Active undercutting
Limited cliff base debris - as it is quickly broken up by erosion and carried away by waves
unvegetated
Cliff profiles - sub-aerial processes dominated characteristics
Shallower curved slope profile, lower relief
low angle
accumulated debris
sub-aerial processes of surface run-off erosion and mass movement
debris not removed due to low marine wave erosion
Cliff profile
The height and angle of a cliff as well as its features, such as wave-cut notches or changes in slope angle
Characteristics of a coast with cliffs
Transition from land to sea is abrupt
Low tide = foreshore is exposed as a rocky platform
cliffs are vertical
Characteristics of sandy coastline
High tide = beach is inundated, vegetated dunes aren’t
Dune vegetation stabilises the coast and prevents erosion
Characteristics of estuarine coastline
Found at the mouth of rivers extensive mudflats, cut by channels Low tide = exposed High tide = inundated Back shore's mudflats are vegetated Coastline transitions from land to sea
Geological structure
Refers to how the rock is arranged on macro scale. it looks at the arrangement of different rock types in relation to each other
Concordant coastline
Rock is parallel to the coastline
Straight coast with development of coves
Discordance coastline
Rock is perpendicular to coastline
Headlands and bays
Explain how headlands and bays are formed
Discordant coastline there are layers of hard and soft rock perpendicular
wave action erodes less resistant rock quick due to abrasion and HA = bays
More resistant rock is left = headlands - this causes incoming waves to refract as water becomes shallower (wave refraction)
wave energy is now concentrated on the headland
wave becomes higher and steeper increasing erosional power
bay is sheltered as wave energy dissipated - beaches form
In theory what may happen overtime to headlands and bays?
Headlands will be eroded to become caves, arches, stacks. The coastline may even out before the process starts again
Coastal morphology
The shape and form of coastal landscapes and their features
Coastal recession
Coastal erosion
Horizontal starta creates..
steep cliffs
-recession rates are quicker when soft layer bottom
cliff retreat is exposed to the sea
fairly stable profile
cliff profile - rock dips gently towards the sea, almost vertical points
joints opened up by pressure and release and weathering
slight seaward dipping bedding planes can increase recession rates due to mass movement and weathering
cliff profile - steep dips towards sea
rock slabs slide down the cliff along bedding planes
seaward dipping bedding planes can be unstable this increases recession rates
cliff profile - rocks dip inland producing a stable, steep cliff profile
landward dipping bedding plane
steep and stable
this can decrease recession rates
cliff profile - rock dips inland but with well-developed joints at right angles to bedding planes
joints act as slide planes - this can increase recession
meso
medium
micro
small
macro
large
Geological structure on meso scale
sedimentary tend to be in clear defined layers
Geological structure on micro scale
some rock types are more likely to have joints and bedding planes
Most resistant rocks (igneous)
crystalline structure - interlocking crystals
-well-connected, impermeable, joints
create rocky coastlines with steep cliff profiles that erode slowly
igneous rocks like granite recession rates = 0.1-0.3 cm/yr
Resistant metamorphic rocks
well connected and impermeable
folded and faulted so have weaknesses
create rocky coastlines with steep cliff profiles
marble, schist, slate erosion rates = 0.5-1cm/yr
Resistant sedimentrey rock
limestone and chalk are relatively resistant but are more vulnerable as they are clastic
-made up of cemented sediment particles rather than interlocking crystals
-formed in strata with joints providing weaknesses and makes limestone permeable
chalk is porous as there are air spaces between particles
Form steep cliffs, headlands and wave-cut platforms
LS = 1-2cm/yr
chalk = 1-100cm/yr
Less resistant rocks - unconsolidated
often layers of impermeable rock where water can remove cement between particles
high pore water pressure can reduce stability
unconsolidated rocks have not been cemented together by pressure
sandstone = 10-100cm/yr
boulder clay - left by glaciers - least resistant as it is lose and not cemented together = 100-1000cm/yr
stepped/slumped coastlines due to slumping
Factors affecting the rate of coastal recession
Geology and lithology
weathering and mass movement
wave energy
absence of beach
rising sea levels
human intervention - coastal management, development
marine processes- fetch, destructive waves, lsd, sub aerial processes
How are coves formed?
concordant coastline - waves are parallel to sea destructive waves destructive waves hit coastline in winter - HA and abrasion attacks weaknesses (joints and faults) in resistant limestone eventually erosion slows down as more resistant chalk layers are met and cove has been made.
Dalmatian coasts
tectonic activity folded limestone layers so that ridges (anticlines) and valleys (synclines) formed parallel to the coast
Sea level rose due to end of ice age and drowned the valleys creating a submergent coastline
The ridges remain as islands running parallel to the coastline
Haff coasts
Form on concordant coastlines
Long sediment ridges topped by sand dunes that run parallel to the coast
The build of these sand dunes have created lagoons between them and the shore
Form in low energy environments where deposition occurs but onshore winds and low energy waves
- Baltic Sea
factors affecting shape of the coastline
rocks and sediment
vegetation
How does vegetation help stabilise unconsolidated sediments at the coast and reduce erosion?
Marram Grass - xerophyte
Glasswort - halophyte
How do Marram Grass stabilise sediment?
Deep roots
Capture blown sand making it ideal for stabilising shifting dunes
Growing conditions
How do Marram Grass stabilise sediment? - deep roots
3m deep roots help to bind sediment together making them less vulnerable to wind and water erosion - they reach down in search of moisture creeping stems (rhizomes) extend widthways, sending down even more like ladder structures
How do Marram Grass stabilise sediment? - growing conditions
Grows in conditions, free-draining sand - helps to prevent unnecessary water loss
where are marram grass?
sand dunes - xerophytes
Where are glasswort?
salt marsh - halophyte
How do Glasswort stabilise sediment?
- submerged
- stem
- dead organic matter
- salt resistant
How do Glasswort stabilise sediment? - submerged
-when submerged, plants provide a protective layer so that the sediment is not directly exposed to erosion by the tide
How do Glasswort stabilise sediment? - stem
it has a succulent stem so it stores water
How do Glasswort stabilise sediment? - dead organic matter
dead organic matter is added to the sediment and helps to create soil which is less vulnerable than loose sediment
How do Glasswort stabilise sediment? - salt
salt resistant - protected against water erosion
sand dune
psammosere
Salt marsh
halosere
Succession
refers to the changing structure of a plant community over time as an initially bare surface is colonised by pioneer species and continues to develop
What kind of coastlines does plant succession occur on?
coastlines where deposition takes place
low energy environments that are sheltered from high energy waves
Fetch
the distance over which the wind has blown
- south coast has the largest fetch (Devon and Cornwall)
How are waves created?
As wind blows over the ocean, friction occurs and energy is transferred to create a wave
The stronger the wind = the greater the wave power
What factors affect the energy of waves?
wind speed
distance
time
fetch
As the wave gets closer to the shore…
the wave length decreases
the wave height increases
Describe the movement of the wave
Waves move across the open ocean in a circular motion as ocean swell
As they reach shallower water, the frictional drag on the sea bed slows down the base of the wave
Eventually the wave breaks as the top of the wave is moving faster than the base
What is a swell wave?
is an ocean waves system raised at some distance away due winds blowing there
Where are swell waves formed?
Travel out of a stormy or windy area that have travelled from their fetch and continue on in the direction of the winds that originally formed them as sea waves
What happens as the swell advances?
its crest becomes flattened and rounded, smoothed surface
Do swell waves follow the prevailing winds?
They come from different directions than normal prevailing winds and sea waves
Sometimes come from the same direction making it hard to distinguish the two different systems
When is marine erosion at its highest?
Winter season as they produce destructive waves
What are landforms of coastal erosion?
Headlands and bays Coves Caves, arches Cliffs Blowholes
Simple - how are cave, arch, stack, stump formed?
Example
Wave refraction concentrates wave action on the headland
Hydraulic action and abrasion slowly erode the headland to form a series of headland
e.g. Old Harry’s Rock
more on folder
Simple - how are blowholes created?
Caves can potentially collapse to produce a hole in the cliff
Waves hitting the base of the cliff can be forced through and spout water at the top
How are wave cut platforms formed?
- wave action at the base of the cliff means that hydraulic action and abrasion undercuts the cliff to form a wave cut notch
- continues and the cliff above the notch is left unsupported and eventually collapses
- cliff retreats leaving wave cut platform which is the base of the cliff that is left
- this process maintains steep cliff profiles
Beach morphology
the shape of a beach, including width and slope profiles and other features such as berms
Beach morphology - What happens to it during summer?
Deposition exceeds erosion
Creation of a berm
Slopes
during summer, sediment is returned by constructive waves
Beach morphology - What happens to it during winter?
Erosion exceeds deposition Dune erosion Berm erosion Bar formation Steep cliff during winter, sediment is dragged offshore by destructive waves
Beach morphology - how does material change along a beach?
- beaches consist of lose material so morphology changes as waves change
- material along a beach profile also varies in size and type depending on distance from the shoreline
Describe a beach profile in summer
- beach is steeper when there are more constructive waves
- constructive waves are less frequent (6-9 per min) so wave energy dissipates and deposits over a wide area
- the swash of constructive waves deposits larger material at the top of the beach creating a berm
- as the berm builds up, the backwash becomes weaker due to draining through percolation rather than down the beach
- beach material becomes smaller towards the shoreline
Describe a beach profile in winter
- Destructive waves occur at a higher frequency
- berms are eroded by plunging waves and high energy swash
- strong backwash transports sediments offshore depositing it as offshore bars
- sometimes the backwash exerts a current known as a rip or undertow
- this drags the sediment back as the next wave arrives over the top
What are the factors that influence beach morphology?
- Sediment supply from river is reduced
- Interference in sediment supply along the coast
- Climate change
What are the factors that influence beach morphology? - Sediment supply from river is reduced
Due to construction of dams on rivers that traps sediment upstream
What are the factors that influence beach morphology? - Interference in sediment supply along the coast
Coastal management
What are the factors that influence beach morphology? - Climate change
increase in storms, destructive waves, erosion
Beach profile in storm beaches
high-energy deposition of very coarse sediment
Beach profile in the middle of beach
mostly sand but sand is more coarser where berms/ridges have been deposited than in channels or runnels
Beach profile of offshore
offshore ridges and bars are formed by destructive waves erosion and subsequent deposition of sand and shingle offshore
Cavitation
causes air in cracks to expand and forces cracks open
Why is sediment constantly moving? 3 factors
waves, tides and currents
LSD
traction, saltation, suspension
Traction
large sediment rolled across seabed
Saltation
Medium load bounced
Suspension
Fine load taken along
Describe the process of long-shore drift
- prevailing winds approach coast at an angle
- swash moves sediment up beach at 45degrees and backwash moves 90 degrees down under gravity
- traction, saltation and suspension
- sediment is moves east and over time a drift aligned beach is formed
- sediment experiences attrition and abrasion becomes smaller and more rounded
What is a swash aligned beach?
- waves approach the coastline perpendicular to the beach
- the swash and backwash move sediments up and down the beach creating a stable and straight beach
What is a drift aligned beach?
- waves approach at an angle and sediment is moved along by long-shore drift
- creates wide beaches but uneven sediment spread
What are the sources of sediment?
- rivers
- constructive waves from seabed
- cliff erosion
- LSD transports sediment
Why does deposition occur?
- deposition in low energy coastal environments occur due to gravity
- coarse sediment drops first, finer is further away
- flocculation helps deposition of fine clay particles that are very light
- these clump together in salt water making them heavier
What stabilises deposited sediment?
Vegetation - salt marsh, sand dune succession
Describe the formation of a spit
- lsd moves sediment along
- lsd continues as there is a change in the direction of the coastline
- waves lose energy in the slacker behind the headland and large sediments are deposited
- as deposition occurs, spit forms
- finer material is carried further along the spit before being deposited as it is lighter
- flocculation helps to settle fine clay
- when the rivers current stops deposition across the estuary preventing a bar from forming
What happens when there is no river currents during the formation of a spit?
when there is no river currents preventing long shore drift depositing in a straight line across so the spit eventually joins the land to create a bar
Example of a spit
Spurn head, Chesil Beach
Example of a bar
Slapton Sands, Devon
Describe the formation of a tombolo
- an island joined to the mainland
- it develops when deposition occurs behind an island due to the low energy environment
- eventually the island becomes connected to the mainland
- also by lsd and a bar forming
Example of a tombolo
St Michaels mount, Cornwall/ Chesil Beach
Describe how double spits and cuspate forelands are formed
- LSD happens from both directions, leading to 2 spits forming and meeting up -cuspate forelands
- deposition occurs in the slack water behind to create the distinctive shaped coastline
Examples of double spits and cuspate forelands
Dungeness, Kent
Describe how barrier islands are formed
- an offshore sand bar thought to have formed when a plentiful supply of sediment was deposited in sand dunes along the eastern seaboard of the USA by waves and winds
- as sea levels have risen, land behind was flooded to create a lagoon but the sand dunes themselves become elongated islands running parallel to the coast in USA
- as sea levels rise, they migrate inland
- they provide protection to the coastline during storms as they absorb wave energy
Describe how offshore bars are formed
- a long ridge of sand and pebbles found a short distance out to sea
- forms in shallow water offshore where slope is gentle
- following a large erosion event during a storm
- beach and sand dunes can be scoured heavily by destructive waves
- extra sediment is deposited vertically offshore in a bar
- these offshore bars may only be temporary
- LSD can add to them or change their shape
Sediment cell
an area of a coastline that acts like a closed system
-there are sources, transfers and sinks within each cell