Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a coast?

A

The border between land and sea

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2
Q

How are coasts used?

A

Tourism, sport, fishing, oil and gas reserves, transport, housing

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3
Q

Why are coasts under threat?

A

Sea levels rising, pollution, litter, overfishing, erosion, natural disasters

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4
Q

How are waves formed

A

Due to the friction between the wind and the sea

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5
Q

What does the size of the wave depend on?

A

Duration of wind, strength of wind, fetch

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6
Q

What is the crest of a wave?

A

The top

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7
Q

What is the trough of a wave

A

The low area between 2 waves

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8
Q

What is the wavelength?

A

Distance between 2 crests or 2 troughs

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9
Q

What is the wave height?

A

The distance between the crest and trough

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10
Q

What is the swash?

A

The movement of water and load up the beach

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11
Q

What is the backwash?

A

The movement of water and load down the beach

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12
Q

What are the properties of a destructive wave?

A

Weak swash and strong backwash, wave breaks almost vertically, very erosive

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13
Q

What are properties of a constructive wave?

A

Strong swash and weak backwash, wave breaks shallowly, and they build beaches

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14
Q

What is hydraulic pressure?

A

When the pressure of water and air between a crack causes it to break

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15
Q

What is corrasion/abrasion

A

Rocks being thrown at cliffs by waves

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16
Q

What is corrosion/solution?

A

The slight acidity of sea water causing bits of the cliff to dissolve

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17
Q

What is attrition?

A

Rocks, sand and stones being thrown at each other by waves

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18
Q

What is wave pounding?

A

The power of waves crashing into cliffs causing them to weaken

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19
Q

What is sub aerial weathering

A

The top of cliffs being attacked by the weather making cliffs weaker and less stable

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20
Q

How are bays and headlands formed?

A

When you get alternate layers of soft and hard rock and the soft rock erodes much quicker making a bay. The hard rock forms a headland

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21
Q

What is a bay?

A

An area of land found between 2 headlands. Usually more sheltered so there is less erosion

22
Q

What is a headland?

A

A piece of land that sticks out into the sea. Undergo a lot of erosion

23
Q

What is a blowhole?

A

When the sea erodes through the top of the headland

24
Q

What is longshore drift?

A

The movement of load along a coastline

25
Q

What has to be specific about the waves for longshore drift to occur?

A

The waves have to hit the beach at an angle

26
Q

What is the prevailing wind?

A

The direction that the wind usually hits the coastline

27
Q

What are groynes?

A

Wooden or concrete fences designed to stop longshore drift

28
Q

What is the tidal range?

A

The difference of area between high and low tide

29
Q

What is a spit?

A

A long thin stretch of land which stretches out into the sea

30
Q

What is a salt marsh?

A

A salty marsh which has developed behind a spit

31
Q

What process forms a spit and where are they usually found?

A

Longshore drift. Usually found at mouths of rivers

32
Q

What is a tombolo?

A

A spit that joins the mainland

33
Q

What is the mainland?

A

The main land mass of the area

34
Q

What is a bar?

A

A spit that connects 2 headlands to form a cove

35
Q

What is a lagoon?

A

The salt water lake that develops behind a bar

36
Q

What is a eustatic change?

A

Global changes when the whole level of the sea either rises or falls

37
Q

What is a isostatic change?

A

Local changes when the level of land changes relative to the level of the sea

38
Q

What is a berm?

A

A long thin hill that forms at the top of the ebach

39
Q

What is a strand line?

A

The material that is deposited by the sea at the furthest point of the high tide

40
Q

What is an embryo dune?

A

The starting of a sand dune

41
Q

What is a foredune?

A

Small embryo dunes that join together

42
Q

What is a blowout?

A

A depression or hole in the dune caused by the wind

43
Q

What is humus?

A

A layer of decaying plant and animal matter that adds nutrients to the ground

44
Q

What are some examples of hard engineering on the coastline?

A

Rip-rap, gabion, groynes, sea wall, breakwater, revetments

45
Q

What are some examples of soft engineering on the coastline?

A

Dune stabilisation, cliff regrading, beach nourishment, beach drainage, managed retreat

46
Q

What conditions do coral reefs need to form?

A

Tropical sea conditions, warm waters, clear water, no pollution, sunlight, relatively shallow water

47
Q

What is a fringing reef?

A

They circle the coastline or islands . They often are protected by barrier reefs

48
Q

What is a barrier reef?

A

Older and wider than a fringing reef, commonly separated from mainland or island by a deep lagoon

49
Q

What is an atoll?

A

Rise from submerged volcanoes. Similar to barrier reefs

50
Q

What are benefits of coral reefs?

A

Support 25% of marine species, protect coastlines from erosion, natural barriers, recycling agent for CO2, source of raw material, benefit tourism

51
Q

How are coral reefs being damaged?

A

Rising sea levels, natural disasters, destructive fishing, deforestation, pollution, overfishing, marine trade

52
Q

How are coral reefs being protected?

A

Banning destructive fishing, conservation zones, sewage outlets moved, banning of anchoring, reduce fertilisers, education