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Ocean chapter 1 > Chapter 7 > Flashcards

Chapter 7 Flashcards

1
Q

Define Coast

A

transition zone between land and ocean

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2
Q

Define coastline

A

Farthest inland extent of storm waves

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3
Q

Define Shore

A

land between low tide line and coastline

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4
Q

Define shoreline

A

actual edge of water-changes daily with tides and storms

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5
Q

Define intertidal zone

A

part of the shore between low tide and high tide

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6
Q

Define backshore

A

only covered with water during the highest spring tides

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7
Q

Define foreshore

A

between high and low tide

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8
Q

Define nearshore

A

between low tide and breaker line-waves interact with the seafloor here-longshore bars and troughs are found here.

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9
Q

What is a longshorebar? In which season are they large?

A

Shallow sea floor that makes waves break on them because they are shallow.

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10
Q

Summer beaches

A

•Sand moves onshore•Wide and sandy berm•Smaller or no longshorebar•More deposition than erosion•Smaller and more gentle waves

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11
Q

Winter beaches

A

•Sand moves offshore•Large longshorebar•Rocky beach•More erosion than deposition•Larger waves

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12
Q

What is wave refraction?

A

–Waves bend upon entering shallow water–Result of friction–Bend towards shoreline–See Figure to the left•The white lines represent the crest of waves

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13
Q

Describe swash

A

the breaking wave runs up onto the beach

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14
Q

Describe backwash

A

the wave flows straight back to the ocean

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15
Q

What is a longshore current?

A

•Waves (swash) strike the beach at an angle•Backwash leaves beach •Together the swash and backwash make a zigzag path down the beach

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16
Q

What is a long shore drift?

A

is water or sand or anything drifting because the waves crash at an angle to the shore line.

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17
Q

What is causing the longshore current and longshoredrift to form?

A

waves coming in at an angle

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18
Q

What is the purpose of a breakwater

A

Protector harbors from waves

19
Q

Purpose of Jetties?

A

Protect mouth of harbor or stream from closing off due to longshoredrift

20
Q

Purpose of a groin?

A

Purpose is to widen beach

21
Q

Purpose of a seawall?

A

Protect beaches, roads, buildings form waves

22
Q

How does a rip current form? What should you do if you are caught in one?

A

Form when there is a break in a longshorebar•Water flows away from the coast in the break

23
Q

What is a wetland?

A

Coastal area submerged at least part of the time-usually during high tide

24
Q

Why are wetlands important?

A

•Filter pollution out of seawater•Trap sediment and build up land•Nurseries and habitat for coastal marine life•Support salt tolerant grasses and plants •Protects coastal areas from storm wavesChapter

25
Q

Describe two types of wetlands.

A

Salt Marsh

Mangrove Swamps

26
Q

What is an estuary?

A

Partially isolated body of water where fresh and saltwater mix

27
Q

Four types of Estuary?

A

Coastal Plain Estuary
Bar-Built Estuary
Tectonic Estuary
Fjord

28
Q

What is a tropical cyclone?

A

a localized, very intense low-pressure wind system, forming over tropical oceans and with winds of hurricane force.

29
Q

Where do tropical cyclones form?

A

In the tropics….tropic of cancer to tropic of Capricorn.

30
Q

Describe a storm surge?

A

Extreme waves above high tide

31
Q

Where do hurricanes originate?

A

Typically form between 5 to 20 °N or S of the Equator

32
Q

What is the minimum wind speed for a tropical cyclone to be classified as a hurricane?

A

wind speeds of 74 mph, keeps name given when classified as a tropical storm

33
Q

What is the eye of the hurricane?

A

center, winds calm, little or no rain, skies clear

34
Q

What is the eyewall of the hurricane?

A

most intense part of storm, highest winds, heaviest rain

35
Q

What three conditions are necessary for tropical cyclones to form?

A
  1. high sea-surface temperatures (>80°F)2. Weak winds aloft3. Coriolis deflection (causes rotation)
36
Q

What do you call a hurricane in the Indian Ocean?

A

•“Cyclones” –South Pacific and Indian Ocean

37
Q

What do you call a hurricane in the West Pacific?

A

Typhoons north of the equator and cyclones south

38
Q

Tropical Disturbance progression

A

low air pressure, group of organized thunderstorms

39
Q

Tropical depression progression

A

sustained wind speeds of 23 mph

40
Q

Tropical Storm progression

A

wind speeds of 39 mph, given a name at this point

41
Q

Hurricane progression

A

wind speeds of 74 mph, keeps name given when classified as a tropical storm

42
Q

When is it assigned a name? How are they named?

A

•Start at beginning of alphabet•Alternate male-female names•The next year begins with the opposite gender•2019-Andrea (female), Barry (male), Chantal (female), Dorian (male), Erin (female)•2020-Arthur (male), Bertha (female), Cristobal (male), Dolly (female), Edouard(male)•The next year starts at the top of the new list, even if all the names were not used.

43
Q

Describe three hazards with hurricanes?

A

•Storm Surge–Extreme high waves•Flooding•Intense Wind

44
Q

What is the Saffir-Simpson Scale? What factors is it based on?

A

•Scale of 1 to 5•Classify hurricanes based on–Air pressure–Wind speed

Ocean chapter 1 (14 decks)

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