Chapter 13 Flashcards
Alcohol
Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol
Algae
Derived from minerals and photo hormones; remunerative sand revitalizes the skin
Allantion
An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.
Aloe Vera
Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, anti microbial and anti-inflammatory properties
Alpha lipoid acid
A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
Alum
Compound made of aluminum, potassium or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action
Ampoules
Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base
Alpha hydroxy acids
Abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal
Anhydrous
Describes products that do no contain any water
Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
Astringents
Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin.
Azulene
Derived from chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
Bentley peroxide
Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne
Beta-glucans
Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.
Beta hydroxy acids
Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acids. BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
Binders
Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together
Botanicals
Ingredients derived from plants
Calendula
Anti-inflammatory plant extract
Carbomers
Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products
Carrot
Rich in vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant
Certified colors
Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C
Chamomile
Plant extract with calming and soothing properties
Chelating agent
A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
Chemical exfoliation
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue” that holds them together
Clay masks
Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten
Cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin
Coenzyme Q10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells
Colorants
Substances such as vegetables, pigment, or mineral dyes that gives products color.
Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (black head)
Cosmeceuticals
Products intended to improve skin’s health and appearance
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed,poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
Delivery systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
Detergents
Type of surfactant used as cleaners in skin care products
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants
Echinacea
Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize and prevent water loss
Emulsifiers
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
Enzyme peels
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins and exfoliate the skin
Essential oils
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
Arty acids
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.
Fatty alcohols
Emollients: fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
Fatty esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
Fragrances
Give products scent
Fresheners
Skin-freshening lotions with low alcohol content
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients
Glycerin
Formed by decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softer and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
Glycoproteins
Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.
Homage
Also know as roll-off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
Grapeseed extract
Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and a stimulant
Healing agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin car products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and moisturize
Horsechestnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas or telangiectasia
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation or sloughing of skin cells
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities
Lavender
Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing and healing.
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
Lipids
Fats or fat-like substances. Lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
Liposomes
Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin.
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant
Masks
Also known as pack. Concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners… Nourish and treat the skin
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off the skin
Methylparaben
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Modelage masks
Also known as thermal masks; thermal heat masks. Facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster like ingredient.
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
Noncertified colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments.
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
Olfactory system
Gives you your sense of smell
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
Para end
One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms.
Paraffin wax masks
Masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
Performance ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in appearance of the skin
Petroleum jelly
Is skydive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water.
PH adjusters
Acids or alkalis used to adjust the pH of products
Phytotheapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.
Polyglucans
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism: also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.
Polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules into long chain like structures
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
Propylene glycol
Humectants often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers
Quaternium 15
All-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives
Retinol
Natural form of vitamin A. Stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new ones.
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic and deodorant properties. Found in forms of rose extracts, oil or water.
Salicylic acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness.
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicone and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin.
Sodium bicarbonate
Baking soda: an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer and a pH adjuster.
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent dry skin
Sphingolipids
Cermaides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier later
Squalane
Derived from olives: desensitizes and nourishes. An emollient.
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also accurate in small amounts in olive oil wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil: also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative
Stem cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells. For health and anti aging benefits
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skins surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products
Sun protection factor
Abbreviated SPF. Ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. Based on UVB protection
Tea tree
Soothing and antiseptic: anti fungal properties
Tissue respiratory factor
Abbreviated TRF. Ingredient derived from yeast cells that function as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient.
Titanium dioxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
Toners
Also known as fresheners. Liquids designed to tone and tighten the skins surface
Urea
properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skins surface and helps maintain healthy skin
Vehicles
Spreading agents
Water soluble
Mix able with water
Witch hazel
Extracts from the bark of the hamamelis shrub. Can be soothing agent. Or in higher concentration, an astringent
Zinc oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also to protect,soothe, and heal skin. Somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial
