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Esthiology Freshman Block > Chapter 13 > Flashcards

Chapter 13 Flashcards

1
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol

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2
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and photo hormones; remunerative sand revitalizes the skin

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3
Q

Allantion

A

An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin-soothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

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4
Q

Aloe Vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, anti microbial and anti-inflammatory properties

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5
Q

Alpha lipoid acid

A

A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

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6
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action

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7
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base

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8
Q

Alpha hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal

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9
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do no contain any water

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10
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service

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11
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin.

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12
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

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13
Q

Bentley peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne

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14
Q

Beta-glucans

A

Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.

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15
Q

Beta hydroxy acids

A

Abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acids. BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

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16
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together

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17
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants

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18
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract

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19
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products

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20
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant

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21
Q

Certified colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C

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22
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and soothing properties

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23
Q

Chelating agent

A

A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

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24
Q

Chemical exfoliation

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue” that holds them together

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25
Q

Clay masks

A

Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten

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26
Q

Cleansers

A

Soaps and detergents that clean the skin

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27
Q

Coenzyme Q10

A

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells

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28
Q

Colorants

A

Substances such as vegetables, pigment, or mineral dyes that gives products color.

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29
Q

Comedogenicity

A

Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (black head)

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30
Q

Cosmeceuticals

A

Products intended to improve skin’s health and appearance

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31
Q

Cosmetics

A

As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed,poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance

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32
Q

Delivery systems

A

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

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33
Q

Detergents

A

Type of surfactant used as cleaners in skin care products

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34
Q

DMAE

A

Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants

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35
Q

Echinacea

A

Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system

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36
Q

Emollients

A

Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize and prevent water loss

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37
Q

Emulsifiers

A

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

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38
Q

Enzyme peels

A

Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins and exfoliate the skin

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39
Q

Essential oils

A

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche

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40
Q

Exfoliants

A

Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

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41
Q

Exfoliation

A

Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin

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42
Q

Arty acids

A

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.

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43
Q

Fatty alcohols

A

Emollients: fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

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44
Q

Fatty esters

A

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

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45
Q

Fragrances

A

Give products scent

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46
Q

Fresheners

A

Skin-freshening lotions with low alcohol content

47
Q

Functional ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients

48
Q

Glycerin

A

Formed by decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softer and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams

49
Q

Glycoproteins

A

Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.

50
Q

Homage

A

Also know as roll-off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin

51
Q

Grapeseed extract

A

Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties

52
Q

Green tea

A

Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and a stimulant

53
Q

Healing agents

A

Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.

54
Q

Herbs

A

Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin car products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and moisturize

55
Q

Horsechestnut

A

Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas or telangiectasia

56
Q

Humectants

A

Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness

57
Q

Hydrators

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface

58
Q

Hydrophilic agents

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface

59
Q

Jojoba

A

Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.

60
Q

Keratolytic

A

Agent that causes exfoliation or sloughing of skin cells

61
Q

Kojic acid

A

Skin brightening agent

62
Q

Lakes

A

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

63
Q

Lanolin

A

Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities

64
Q

Lavender

A

Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing and healing.

65
Q

Licorice

A

Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation

66
Q

Lipids

A

Fats or fat-like substances. Lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin

67
Q

Liposomes

A

Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin.

68
Q

Lubricants

A

Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant

69
Q

Masks

A

Also known as pack. Concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners… Nourish and treat the skin

70
Q

Mechanical exfoliation

A

Physical method of rubbing dead cells off the skin

71
Q

Methylparaben

A

One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

72
Q

Mineral oil

A

Lubricant derived from petroleum

73
Q

Modelage masks

A

Also known as thermal masks; thermal heat masks. Facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster like ingredient.

74
Q

Moisturizers

A

Products formulated to add moisture to the skin

75
Q

Noncertified colors

A

Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments.

76
Q

Oil soluble

A

Compatible with oil

77
Q

Olfactory system

A

Gives you your sense of smell

78
Q

Papaya

A

Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

79
Q

Para end

A

One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms.

80
Q

Paraffin wax masks

A

Masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.

81
Q

Peptides

A

Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides

82
Q

Performance ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in appearance of the skin

83
Q

Petroleum jelly

A

Is skydive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water.

84
Q

PH adjusters

A

Acids or alkalis used to adjust the pH of products

85
Q

Phytotheapy

A

Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.

86
Q

Polyglucans

A

Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism: also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.

87
Q

Polymers

A

Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules into long chain like structures

88
Q

Potassium hydroxide

A

Strong alkali used in soaps and creams

89
Q

Preservatives

A

Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

90
Q

Propylene glycol

A

Humectants often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers

91
Q

Quaternium 15

A

All-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives

92
Q

Retinol

A

Natural form of vitamin A. Stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new ones.

93
Q

Rose

A

Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic and deodorant properties. Found in forms of rose extracts, oil or water.

94
Q

Salicylic acid

A

Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

95
Q

Seaweed

A

Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness.

96
Q

Serums

A

Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

97
Q

Silicones

A

Oil that is chemically combined with silicone and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin.

98
Q

Sodium bicarbonate

A

Baking soda: an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer and a pH adjuster.

99
Q

Sorbitol

A

Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent dry skin

100
Q

Sphingolipids

A

Cermaides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier later

101
Q

Squalane

A

Derived from olives: desensitizes and nourishes. An emollient.

102
Q

Squalene

A

Originally from shark liver oil; also accurate in small amounts in olive oil wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil: also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative

103
Q

Stem cells

A

Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells. For health and anti aging benefits

104
Q

Sulfur

A

Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skins surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products

105
Q

Sun protection factor

A

Abbreviated SPF. Ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. Based on UVB protection

106
Q

Tea tree

A

Soothing and antiseptic: anti fungal properties

107
Q

Tissue respiratory factor

A

Abbreviated TRF. Ingredient derived from yeast cells that function as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient.

108
Q

Titanium dioxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

109
Q

Toners

A

Also known as fresheners. Liquids designed to tone and tighten the skins surface

110
Q

Urea

A

properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skins surface and helps maintain healthy skin

111
Q

Vehicles

A

Spreading agents

112
Q

Water soluble

A

Mix able with water

113
Q

Witch hazel

A

Extracts from the bark of the hamamelis shrub. Can be soothing agent. Or in higher concentration, an astringent

114
Q

Zinc oxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also to protect,soothe, and heal skin. Somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial

Esthiology Freshman Block (12 decks)

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