C3.3 Flashcards
considered as disturbances on water surface due to the interaction between a generating force and restoring force.
waves
- the disturbing force or a pulse of energy being introduced ot the water surface.
Generating force
- the force that causes the water to return to its undisturbed surface level.
Restoring force
- _____is the restoring force of___ waves while ____ is the restoring force of___ waves.
Surface tension ; small
Earth’s gravity; large
- part of the wave that is elevated the highest above.
Crest
- part of the wave that is depressed the lowest below the
surface.
Trough
- distance between two successive crest or trough.
Wavelength
- the vertical distance from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough.
Wave Height
- is equal to one - half of wave height or the distance from either the crest or trough to the undisturbed water level.
Amplitude
- undisturbed water level
Equilibrium Surface
- the time required for two successive crests or two successive troughs to pass a point in space.
Period
does not represent a flow of water but instead represents a flow of motion or energy from its origin to its eventual dissipation of sea or loss against the land.
Ocean wave
The moving water form causes water particles to move in___ rising, moving forward, falling, reversing direction and rising again.
orbits
related to wavelength and wave period given the following formula:
C= L/T
wave speed
the height of actual waves are affected and controlled by 3 main factors:
wind speed;
wind duration;
fetch
how fast the wind is blowing
wind speed
how long the wind blows
wind duration
the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction
fetch
when no single one of the three factors is limiting, spectacular _____ are formed at sea.
wind waves
Types of wave: (7)
1.) Capillary waves or ripples
2.) Gravity waves
3.) Episodic waves
4.) shallow-water waves
5.) intermediate waves
6.) deep-water waves
7.) tsunami
small waves on surface ocean caused by winds and restored by surface tension.
Capillary waves or ripples
sufficiently large waves on ocean surface caused by wind and restored
by Earth’s gravity.
Gravity waves
large waves that suddenly appear unrelated to local sea conditions.
Episodic waves
an abnormally high wave that occurs because of a combination of intersecting wave trains, changing depths and currents.
Episodic waves
waves that occur most frequently near the edge of the continental shelf
episodic waves
researchers describe them as having a height of 20 - 30 m or 70 - 100 tf equal to a seven - or eight-story building.
episodic waves
a wave formed when water enters a depth of less than one-twentieth the
wavelength (D< 1/20; D = ___).
shallow-water waves
a wave formed at water depth between 1/2 and 1/20.
intermediate waves
wave that occur IN water that is deeper than one —half the wave’s length. (D > L/2)
deep-water waves
in order to be considered as deep - water wave, the wave must occur in water that is deeper than ___
7.5 m.
also called as seismic sea waves
- waves formed due to movement of continental crusts directly below the ocean.
tsunamis
is the shallow area along the coast in which the waves slow rapidly steepen, break and disappear in the turbulence and spray of expended energy.
surf zone
form in the surf zone because the water particle motion at depth is
affected by the bottom.
breakers
in breakers, the orbital motion is slowed and compressed___
vertically
2 common types of breakers -
a) Plungers and b) Spillers
-they form on narrow, steep beach slopes
- the curling crest outruns the rest of the wave, curves over the air below it, and breaks with a sudden loss of energy and splash.
Plungers
- found over wider, flatter beaches where the energy is extracted more gradually as the wave moves over the shallow bottom.
Spillers
has less dramatic wav form - consisting of turbulent water and bubbles flowing down the collapsing wave face.
spillers
___last longer than plungers because they less energy more gradually.
Spilling breakers
-___ give surfers a longer ride but___ give them a more exciting one
spillers;
plungers
The rotation of the Earth generates the ____ that cause ____ movement of oceans in both hemispheres.
CORIOLIS FORCES;
EAST → WEST
major surface currents have been named as ____ with no banks but stil maintain an average course.
rivers of the sea
surface currents extends to about ___to__ m from the surface much equal to the ___
100 to 150 m;
Ekman Spiral.
are driven by wind and are also acted upon by the Coriolis effect.
surface currents
A wind - driven surface current moves at an angle of ___from the direction of the wind.
45 degrees
This angle (45 degrees) is to the RIGHT in the ____ and to the LEFT in the ____
Northern Hemisphere;
Southern Hemisphere.
