Byzantine Empire Flashcards
own spaces of women where they engage in activities like spinning and weaving
GYNAIKONITIS
Notable Woman in Byzantine Era
- wife of emperor Justinian
- influenced reforms beneficial to women
- ex. prohibiting prostitution, punishment for rape/violence against women, divorce, child guardianship, property ownership
Empress Theodora
where the Byzantine costume took its form
Roman Empire
From the Romans, the Byzantines inherited their basic clothing forms:
TUNIC & TOGA for men
STOLA for women
Byzantine’s most basic garment (they prefer simple flowing clothes)
a long flowing men’s tunic with wide sleeves and hem
DALMATICA
Byzantine Style of Clothing
modest about showing flesh
- garments were close to the neck
- sleeves all the way to the wrist
- hemlines all the way to the ground
layering of clothing for MEN in Byzantine Empire
tunic and trousers under dalmatica
(with long cloak PALUDAMENTUM as outer garment)
layering of clothing for WOMEN in Byzantine Empire
wore long under undergarment under the STOLA (with long cloak PALUDAMENTUM as outer garment)
both men and women of Byzantine empire wore a long outer garment, the cloak called:
PALUDAMENTUM
Byzantine Empire’s trade with the Middle East and the Orient brought what into Constantinople?
exotic fabrics
rich Byzantines eagerly adopted colors, patterns, and fabrics into their custom tradition
Women’s Clothing in Byzantine Empire
Shape-concealing, multilayered
CHEMISE
SHORT TUNIC
STOLA
PALLA
a part of Women’s Clothing in Byzanine Empire
ankle length, fitted undergarment
CHEMISE (Camisia)
a part of Women’s Clothing in Byzanine Empire
revealed the chemise, may be girdled above the waist
SHORT TUNIC
a part of Women’s Clothing in Byzanine Empire
long dress
STOLA
a part of Women’s Clothing in Byzanine Empire
the last layer
PALLA
Lavish Look of Byzantine Women
- Diadem inlaid with semi-precious stones
- Band of pearl-encrusted embroidery
- Diaphanous skil veil with fringed ends
- Patterned silks
- Embroidered end panel of waist-sash (proof that they tied their under-tunic around the waist)
Lavish Look of Byzantine Women
- Diadem inlaid with semi-precious stones
- Band of pearl-encrusted embroidery
- Diaphanous skil veil with fringed ends
- Patterned silks
- Embroidered end panel of waist-sash (proof that they tied their under-tunic around the waist)
Regalia of Empress Theodora
- wears a crown of various jewels
- wears tyrian purple robes
meanings of Empress Theodora’s elaborate robes and crown jewels
- means of EMPHASIZING her power and rank as Empress
- to uplift the IMAGE of the Byzantine Empire as a whole
Empress Theodora crown
- crown of various jewels (emeralds, rubies, and sapphires)
- dotted with pearls and lined with gold
Empress Theodora’s robes
- TYRIAN PURPLE
- embroidered with gold
- neck of robe is adorned with jewels
(matching her earrings and necklace)
Clothing of Men in Byzantine Empire
DALMATICA and TUNICS
- T-shaped, may be short or reaching to the ground
- Distinctly Eastern-influenced
- bright colored with fringes and jeweled embroidery
Men’s Dalmatica
Sleeves of men’s long tunics
sleeves fitted to the wrist
Sleeves of men’s short tunics
- long sleeves cut wider at the arm
- tapering closely at the wrist
- could be seen through the opening of the cloaks
Men’s Tunics Elements
CLAVI
SEGMENTAE
ROUNDELS
two narrow vertical stripes found in the tunic called the ANGUSTICLAVA
CLAVI
men’s tunic with the two narrow stripes (CLAVI)
ANGUSTICLAVA
rectangular medallions typically added to men’s tunics
SEGMENTAE
circular motifs placed on men’s tunics to add decoration
ROUNDELS
Tunics of the Wealthy in Byzantine Empire
- Decorated with vertical and horizontal bands that were elaborately embroidered and appliquéd with precious stones
- Fabrics had all-over patterns, displaying Oriental influence
Imperial Wear in Byzantine Empire
- PROPOLOMA
- PRAIPENDOULA
- MANIAKIS/SUPERHUMERAL
- TABLION (or CLAIMS)
- SCARAMANGION
- LOROS
- PARAGAUDA
Imperial Wear in Byzantine Empire
- a rectangular panel ornamented with embroidery or jewels
- attached to the ceremonial mantle (front of cloak) of members of the court
TABLION (or CLAIMS)
Imperial Wear in Byzantine Empire
- riding coat of Persian origin
- opening down the front and normally coming to the mid-thigh
- worn by Emperors
SCARAMANGION
Imperial Wear in Byzantine Empire
- long, narrow embroidered cloth
- wrapped around the torso and draped over the left hand
- most important part of the imperial costume until the end of the empire
LOROS
Imperial Wear in Byzantine Empire
- border of thick cloth, usually including gold
- indicator of rank
PARAGAUDA
Imperial/ Clerical Wear
- STICHARYON
- MANIPLE
Imperial/Clerical Wear
- a chiton for ceremonial purposes
- also worn by clergy
STICHARYON
Imperial/Clerical Wear
- a cloth of fine quality to wipe away perspiration
- or an ornamental Handkerchief
- was seldom put to actual use but was generally carried at the left hand
- first used by people of rank but later by the clergy
MANIPLE
Fabrics of the Byzantine Empire
- SILK —> SAMITE
- BROCADES
They wove their silk into a strong fabric called _____, which sometimes had gold thread into the material
SAMITE
what weavers in 3rd century used to produce PATTERNED FABRICS
shuttles
- stiffness and luminosity
- featured Christian iconography
- Byzantine ____ was the default apparel of nobility
BROCADE
- fine form of punching
- work “shaped” between
- involved delicately piercing metal sheets to create fine patterns
OPUS INTERRASILE
Religious Byzantine Jewelry
made heavy use of cross and other religious symbols
jewelry work by the Virgin Mary in the mosaic work in the dome of the Hagia Sophia
enameled cuffs to secure the ends of her sleeves
jewelry displayed in the Museum of Byzantine Culture in Thessaloniki
WRISTBANDS with birds and palmettes
- used as jewelry
- saw it as a portable portrait of the Emperor (wearing his image showed confidence in the empire’s wealth and stability)
COINS
used lavishly in Byzantine Jewelry
plentiful PEARLS with diamonds and other precious gems
Byzantine Crowns
- MURALIS
- KAMELAUKION
Byzantine Crown
- resembling a crenelated castle
- has 2 horizontal bands adorned by precious stones and triangular motifs at the top
MURALIS
Byzantine Crown
- hemispherically shaped
- used to indicate imperial headgear decorated with pearls and enamels
- simple ver. was used as helmets by soldiers
KAMELAUKION
Rule by Emperor Justinian
- Only Royal Use: sapphires, emeralds, and pearls
- Free Man Use: a gold ring
Justinian Code
Women’s Hairstyles in Byzantine Empire
- common: braids, bun, ringlets, wigs for volume
- net or bonnet to hold hair tightly
- MAPHORION
4th-5th centuries Women Hairstyles in Byzantine Empire
- hair was divided in the middle in 2 plaits
- gathered at the nape
- or encircled the head like a crown
- could be decorated with pearls
Byzantine Empire Headdress
- a garment covering the head shaped like a mantle or a hood
- worn by women outdoors
MAPHORION
Men’s Hairstyles in Byzantine Empire
- Caesar Cut
- decor: gold fillets or circlets (more elaborate with status)
- Petasos and Skiadon
men’s hair short and cut straight at the forehead
CAESAR CUT
Men’s Headgear in Byzantine Empire
- PETASOS
- SKIADON
Men’s Headgear
- a sunhat
- worn more for the purpose of service
PETASOS
Men’s Headgear
- a tall, pointed Byzantine hat
SKIADON
Byzantine Grooming
- hair-dyes (with young boy’s urine) used by both men and women
- make-up containers (crucibles, containers, applicators, and spoons)
- anti-wrinkle creams, perfumes, and lotions (found in caskets with engraved images of the Muses)
Byzantine Footwear
- little is known (since feet is hidden in paintings)
- could be similar to SOLEA (sandals) and CALCEI (covered shoes) of Roman Empire
Byzantine Footwear in 6th Century AD
- soft leather shoes
- well-preserved
- decorated with the Christian cross
- geometric designs in gold leaf
- worn by ppl w wealth and prominence
Imperial Wear of Byzantine Empire
padded fan shaped headdress worn by high ranking women
PROPOLOMA
Imperial Wear of Byzantine Empire
a string of large pearls ending with the cluster to frame the face
PRAIPENDOULA
Imperial Wear of Byzantine Empire
a separate collar of gold-embroidered, jewel-encrusted fabric
MANIAKIS or SUPERHUMERAL