Baroque & Rococo Flashcards
Fabrics in both Baroque and Rococo
- rich fabrics like silk, brocade, taffeta, damask, moire and velvet were in high demand by the aristocracy
- warp-printed taffeta or CHINE is sometimes called “Pompadour taffeta” after the king’s famous mistress.
Warp-printed taffeta or CHINE is sometimes called “_________” after the king’s famous mistress.
Pompadour Tafetta
Warp-printed taffeta or ______ is sometimes called “Pompadour taffeta” after the king’s famous mistress.
CHINE
Women’s Hairstyle
- Inspired by the Sun King’s mistress, Mademoiselle de ______
- the hairstyle is high (sometimes as high as half a meter)
- propped up with wires
- front of the hair worn in tight curls at the top
- adorned with stiff starched lace and ribbons
FONTAGES
Women’s Hairstyle in 17th century
- women no longer wanted to hide their hair under caps or headdresses
- Hair was worn flat on the crown
- curls falling on the sides of the head, sometimes bound with decorative bows
- the face was framed by tight, small curls.
Women’s Hairstyles in 18th century
- hairstyles rose to great heights
- adornments ranging from ribbons and feathers, to jewels, to stuffed animals
- Women rarely wore whole wigs (they were intended for men), so they hired professional hairdressers to augment their natural locks with false hair, padding, powder, wires and ornaments.
Women’s Hairstyles
- Marie Antoinette was known for her enormous hairstyle called _____
- created by hairstylist Leonard Autic
- Female courtiers tried to copy the queen’s hairstyles, some incurring debt at the huge expense of creating them
- Later, the hair ornaments became so extreme as to include birdcages, windmills and garden landscapes atop already high hairstyles.
THE POUF
creator of THE POUF Hairstyle
Leonard Autic
Women’s Hairstyle
- When the French warship “Belle Poule” was victorious against the British in 1778
- Marie Antoinette attended a ball with a model of the triumphant frigate in her hair, styled high with elaborate curls to represent ocean waves.
LE FRIGATE or LA BELLE POULE
- French warship that was victorious against the British in 1778
- the model for the hairstyle with the ship on it
BELLE POULE
Men’s Hairstyles
- CAVALIER STYLE
- LOVELOCK
- PERIWIGS
Men’s Hairstyle
- In the 17th century, men wore their hair long, “_______”-style
- sometimes with ribbons and bows
- a LOVELOCK was a special feature.
CAVALIER STYLE
Men’s Hairstyle
- a lock of hair that cascaded from the crown of the head to the left shoulder
LOVELOCK
Men’s Hairstyle
- long, full wigs to match the Cavalier fashion of the times
- became compulsory in the last quarter of the 17th century
- following the king’s lead, and it became a status symbol of one’s importance at the at the French Royal Court.
PERIWIGS
(also called ALLONGE PERRUQUE or PERUKE)
Men’s Hairstyles
(colors)
- Black hair was preferred, but Brown shades were also in fashion
- By 1780, young men set a trend by lightly powdering their natural hair. From then on, white-haired wigs became popular.
Make-up
- worn by both men and women.
- Full red lips, well-groomed dark eyebrows and clear bright eyes were the desired female ideal.
- MOUCHES
Make-up
- small, black velvet patches on their faces
- to cover pox scars
- also to convey secret amorous messages.
MOUCHES
Jewelry
- LACE: used as chokers, as valuable as gemstones
- MINIMAL jewelry (simple strands of pearl necklaces, bracelets, and earrings
- miniatures or CAMEOS on necklaces or ribbons on neck
- DEVANT LE CORSAGE pinned to the stomacher
- on necklaces chuchu
CAMEOS
Jewelry (in Baroque period)
- bodice ornament
- made of precious metals, gems, and pearls
- pinned to the stomacher
DEVANT LE CORSAGE
Footwear notes
- men and women in court should have shoes that match their garment in fabric and ornamentation
- King Louis XIV stated only nobility could wear heels
Footwear
- RED HEELS
- THE LOUIS HEEL
Footwear
- a status symbol in court
- the Sun King only allowed those in his favor to wear these
RED HEELS
Footwear
- wider at the top and base
- thinner at the middle heel
- popular in court
The LOUIS HEEL
- worn more for decorative reasons than functional purposes.
- made from leather, satin, velvet or silk
- could be adorned with gold or silver thread and embroidery.
GLOVES
both men and women carried these to protect their hands from the cold.
MUFFS
- primarily used for protection from exposure to the sun
- constructed from delicate materials such as lace, cotton and silk.
- became an important fashion accessory for women throughout Europe from the 18th century
- essential in helping them maintain their pale complexion.
PARASOLS
- an essential accessory for ladies
- Artists of the 16th century painstakingly hand-painted religious scenes, pastoral images or everyday court life, or ornamentation on silk on the front side of the fan.
- Court ladies weren’t allowed to open them in the presence of the queen, it was her prerogative alone.
FOLDING FANS
