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FDMHIST > 19th Cent Europe > Flashcards

19th Cent Europe Flashcards

1
Q

Women’s Undergarments

A
  1. CHEMISE
  2. DRAWERS
  3. CORSETS
  4. PETTICOATS
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2
Q

Women’s Undergarment
- primary layer of clothing
- loose-fitting
- in linen or cotton
- absorbs wearer’s sweat
- kept outer garments clean

A

CHEMISE

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3
Q

Women’s Undergarment
- “underpants
- long, loose-fitting
- split and overlapped in the middle to allow for easy bathroom access

A

DRAWERS

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4
Q

Women’s Undergarment
- support garment for the back & chest
- made to measure for the wearer
- had channels sewn where whalebone, reed or metal bones could be inserted

A

CORSETS

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5
Q

Women’s Undergarment
- underskirt to give the gown a bell shape
- the number of these worn depended on the style of the dress

A

PETTICOAT

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6
Q

a final petticoat worn to smooth out the look of the skirt.

A

OVER-PETTICOAT

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7
Q

Women’s Clothing

A
  1. CHEMISETTE
  2. THE EMPIRE DRESS
  3. SPENCER JACKET
  4. PELISSE COAT
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8
Q

Women’s Clothing
- a tucker, or a half-blouse
- worn under low-necked gowns as a modesty-filler for the daytime

A

CHEMISETTE

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9
Q

Women’s Clothing
- low square neckline
- short puffed sleeves
- wait cut below the breast
- front skirt hung in straight folds to the floor
- full at the back, often with a small train for an elegant draping effect.

A

EMPIRE DRESS

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10
Q

Empire Dress fabric and colors

A
  • woven cotton or linen.
  • regular wearing of white gowns was a sign of social status, as white soiled so easily
  • white gowns evening worn in evening
  • light shades or colored robes for in daytime
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11
Q

Empire Dress details

A
  • Detailing: delicate white embroidery or subtle woven patterns
  • Frills and tucks were often added to the hem of the gown, to pull the skirt into a straighter line at the bottom, and to give it a more conical look.
  • paired with striking, dark-colored SHAWLS, usually made of cashmere, muslin or gauze, in floral or paisley patterns from East India.
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12
Q

Women’s Clothing
- fitted, short jacket
- typically stops just below the armpits
- fastened high to the neck
- with long sleeves that almost covers the hands
- worn both outdoors and indoors

A

SPENCER JACKET

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13
Q

SPENCER JACKET STYLES

A
  1. A LA MAMELOUK
  2. KERSEYMERE
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14
Q

Women’s Clothing
- SPENCER JACKET style where its sleeves cover the hands

A

A LA MAMELOUK

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15
Q

Women’s Clothing
- SPENCER JACKET style
- made of silk or wool

A

KERSEYMERE

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16
Q

Women’s Clothing
- Winter-wear
- a coat-like garment belted at the high-waist
- with a long narrow skirt.
- usually fur-trimmed
- came in colors like brown, dark green or blue
- worn over pale gowns which were visible at the opening.

A

PELISSE COAT

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17
Q

Rise and Fall of Waistline

A

1815: high waistline
1817: peak waistline
1818: began dropping and tightening
1825: normal position
1824-25: wider skirts with wider shoulder line (leg of mutton or gigot sleeves)

18
Q
  • first wife of Napoleon until 1812
  • her style of dress was inspired by high-waisted Roman & Greek silhouettes that set her apart from the flowery Rococo style of Marie Antoinette.
A

EMPRESS JOSEPHINE BONAPARTE

19
Q

JOSEPHINE BONAPARTE style of dresses

A
  • inspired by high-waisted Roman & Greek silhouettes
  • sets her apart from the flowery Rococo style of Marie Antoinette.
20
Q
  • English DANDY
  • arbiter of men’s fashion
  • famous for his friendship with the Prince Regent at the beginning of the 19th century
  • big influence in society
  • gambling and extravagance exhausted his fortune
  • quarreled with the king, went into debt, lost all interest in dress
  • died in a charitable asylum
A

GEORGE “BEAU” BRUMMEL

21
Q

George “Beau” Brummel’s influence in men’s clothing

A

changed men’s approach to dressing by:

  • preferring dark, well-cut and fitted clothes
  • convincing them they were smarter than the colorful, ostentatious suits of the past era
22
Q

what Brummel wore

A
  1. cutaway coat with brass buttons
  2. plain waistcoat that matched his pantaloons (replaced shorter breeches in 1805)
  3. Hessian riding boots
  4. conical riding hat (completed his ensemble)
  5. cravat was stiffly starched & meticulously tied.
23
Q

Men’s Clothing Parts

A
  1. Coats
  2. Shirts
  3. Waistcoats
  4. Breeches
24
Q

Men’s Dressing
- revolt against previous tradition of dressing
- an expression of distaste for the extravagance and ostentation of the past generation, and of sympathy to the new world of democracy
- characterized by immaculate personal cleanliness and exquisitely tailored dark coats

A

DANDYISM /
DANDY DRESSING

25
Q

Men’s Dressing
(COATS)

A
  • cutaway in front
  • long tails behind
  • had tall, standing collars
  • lapels featured an M-SHAPED NOTCH unique to the period
26
Q

Men’s Clothing
(SHIRTS)

A
  • made of linen
  • had attached collars that were wrapped in cravats tied in various fashions
27
Q

Men’s Clothing
(WAISTCOATS)

A
  • high-waisted
  • often double-breasted
  • wide lapels
  • stand collars
28
Q

Men’s Clothing
(BREECHES)

A
  • became longer and tight-fitted
  • replaced by trousers for fashionable streetwear
  • in first quarter of the century, trousers were worn as evening wear, but breeches continued to be worn in court
29
Q

Men’s Clothing
- was particularly popular
- had 3-5 capelets attached to the collar

(Overcoats or greatcoats became fashionable, often with contrasting collars of fur or velvet)

A

GARRICK or CARRICK
(also called a COACHMAN’S COAT)

30
Q

Fabrics of the Regency Era

A
  1. LINEN
  2. WOOL
  3. COTTON
  4. SILK
31
Q

Fabric of the Regency Era
- used for almost anything
- undergarments, linings, aprons, millinery and clothing

A

LINEN

32
Q

Fabric of the Regency Era
- used for working dress and outer-wear

A

WOOL

33
Q

Kinds of WOOL in Regency Era

A
  1. WORSTED WOOL
  2. FLANNELS
  3. BROADCLOTH
  4. SUPERFINE
34
Q

Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- lightweight
- good for summer
- comes in twill or plain weaves

A

WORSTED WOOL

35
Q

Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- plain-woven wool
- fuzzy texture
- used for winter shifts, petticoats, and gowns

A

FLANNELS

36
Q

Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- dense fabric with lots of body
- common for men’s and women’s wear
- utility clothing (riding or travel attire)

A

BROADCLOTH

37
Q

Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- extremely tight-woven
- dense broadcloth used for uniforms, riding habits, and outer-wear

A

SUPERFINE

38
Q

Fabric of the Regency Era
- Fabric of the “Orient”
- particularly desirable as were very fine muslins
- floral prints, simple prints (dots or small graphic shapes) in plain white or ivory were extremely popular during this era

A

COTTON

39
Q

Fabric of the Regency Era
- highly-figured, decorative
- expensive and displayed affluence
- sometimes costs more than the labor to produce gowns
- gowns were often disassembled and remade into newer styles.

A

SILKS

40
Q

Regency Era SILKS

A
  • taffeta
  • figured & faille silk
  • satin & duchesse satin
  • brocade & damask
  • gauze in all patterns

all were highly-favored by the fashionable set

FDMHIST (21 decks)

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