19th Cent Europe Flashcards
Women’s Undergarments
- CHEMISE
- DRAWERS
- CORSETS
- PETTICOATS
Women’s Undergarment
- primary layer of clothing
- loose-fitting
- in linen or cotton
- absorbs wearer’s sweat
- kept outer garments clean
CHEMISE
Women’s Undergarment
- “underpants
- long, loose-fitting
- split and overlapped in the middle to allow for easy bathroom access
DRAWERS
Women’s Undergarment
- support garment for the back & chest
- made to measure for the wearer
- had channels sewn where whalebone, reed or metal bones could be inserted
CORSETS
Women’s Undergarment
- underskirt to give the gown a bell shape
- the number of these worn depended on the style of the dress
PETTICOAT
a final petticoat worn to smooth out the look of the skirt.
OVER-PETTICOAT
Women’s Clothing
- CHEMISETTE
- THE EMPIRE DRESS
- SPENCER JACKET
- PELISSE COAT
Women’s Clothing
- a tucker, or a half-blouse
- worn under low-necked gowns as a modesty-filler for the daytime
CHEMISETTE
Women’s Clothing
- low square neckline
- short puffed sleeves
- wait cut below the breast
- front skirt hung in straight folds to the floor
- full at the back, often with a small train for an elegant draping effect.
EMPIRE DRESS
Empire Dress fabric and colors
- woven cotton or linen.
- regular wearing of white gowns was a sign of social status, as white soiled so easily
- white gowns evening worn in evening
- light shades or colored robes for in daytime
Empire Dress details
- Detailing: delicate white embroidery or subtle woven patterns
- Frills and tucks were often added to the hem of the gown, to pull the skirt into a straighter line at the bottom, and to give it a more conical look.
- paired with striking, dark-colored SHAWLS, usually made of cashmere, muslin or gauze, in floral or paisley patterns from East India.
Women’s Clothing
- fitted, short jacket
- typically stops just below the armpits
- fastened high to the neck
- with long sleeves that almost covers the hands
- worn both outdoors and indoors
SPENCER JACKET
SPENCER JACKET STYLES
- A LA MAMELOUK
- KERSEYMERE
Women’s Clothing
- SPENCER JACKET style where its sleeves cover the hands
A LA MAMELOUK
Women’s Clothing
- SPENCER JACKET style
- made of silk or wool
KERSEYMERE
Women’s Clothing
- Winter-wear
- a coat-like garment belted at the high-waist
- with a long narrow skirt.
- usually fur-trimmed
- came in colors like brown, dark green or blue
- worn over pale gowns which were visible at the opening.
PELISSE COAT
Rise and Fall of Waistline
1815: high waistline
1817: peak waistline
1818: began dropping and tightening
1825: normal position
1824-25: wider skirts with wider shoulder line (leg of mutton or gigot sleeves)
- first wife of Napoleon until 1812
- her style of dress was inspired by high-waisted Roman & Greek silhouettes that set her apart from the flowery Rococo style of Marie Antoinette.
EMPRESS JOSEPHINE BONAPARTE
JOSEPHINE BONAPARTE style of dresses
- inspired by high-waisted Roman & Greek silhouettes
- sets her apart from the flowery Rococo style of Marie Antoinette.
- English DANDY
- arbiter of men’s fashion
- famous for his friendship with the Prince Regent at the beginning of the 19th century
- big influence in society
- gambling and extravagance exhausted his fortune
- quarreled with the king, went into debt, lost all interest in dress
- died in a charitable asylum
GEORGE “BEAU” BRUMMEL
George “Beau” Brummel’s influence in men’s clothing
changed men’s approach to dressing by:
- preferring dark, well-cut and fitted clothes
- convincing them they were smarter than the colorful, ostentatious suits of the past era
what Brummel wore
- cutaway coat with brass buttons
- plain waistcoat that matched his pantaloons (replaced shorter breeches in 1805)
- Hessian riding boots
- conical riding hat (completed his ensemble)
- cravat was stiffly starched & meticulously tied.
Men’s Clothing Parts
- Coats
- Shirts
- Waistcoats
- Breeches
Men’s Dressing
- revolt against previous tradition of dressing
- an expression of distaste for the extravagance and ostentation of the past generation, and of sympathy to the new world of democracy
- characterized by immaculate personal cleanliness and exquisitely tailored dark coats
DANDYISM /
DANDY DRESSING
Men’s Dressing
(COATS)
- cutaway in front
- long tails behind
- had tall, standing collars
- lapels featured an M-SHAPED NOTCH unique to the period
Men’s Clothing
(SHIRTS)
- made of linen
- had attached collars that were wrapped in cravats tied in various fashions
Men’s Clothing
(WAISTCOATS)
- high-waisted
- often double-breasted
- wide lapels
- stand collars
Men’s Clothing
(BREECHES)
- became longer and tight-fitted
- replaced by trousers for fashionable streetwear
- in first quarter of the century, trousers were worn as evening wear, but breeches continued to be worn in court
Men’s Clothing
- was particularly popular
- had 3-5 capelets attached to the collar
(Overcoats or greatcoats became fashionable, often with contrasting collars of fur or velvet)
GARRICK or CARRICK
(also called a COACHMAN’S COAT)
Fabrics of the Regency Era
- LINEN
- WOOL
- COTTON
- SILK
Fabric of the Regency Era
- used for almost anything
- undergarments, linings, aprons, millinery and clothing
LINEN
Fabric of the Regency Era
- used for working dress and outer-wear
WOOL
Kinds of WOOL in Regency Era
- WORSTED WOOL
- FLANNELS
- BROADCLOTH
- SUPERFINE
Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- lightweight
- good for summer
- comes in twill or plain weaves
WORSTED WOOL
Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- plain-woven wool
- fuzzy texture
- used for winter shifts, petticoats, and gowns
FLANNELS
Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- dense fabric with lots of body
- common for men’s and women’s wear
- utility clothing (riding or travel attire)
BROADCLOTH
Kind of WOOL in Regency Era
- extremely tight-woven
- dense broadcloth used for uniforms, riding habits, and outer-wear
SUPERFINE
Fabric of the Regency Era
- Fabric of the “Orient”
- particularly desirable as were very fine muslins
- floral prints, simple prints (dots or small graphic shapes) in plain white or ivory were extremely popular during this era
COTTON
Fabric of the Regency Era
- highly-figured, decorative
- expensive and displayed affluence
- sometimes costs more than the labor to produce gowns
- gowns were often disassembled and remade into newer styles.
SILKS
Regency Era SILKS
- taffeta
- figured & faille silk
- satin & duchesse satin
- brocade & damask
- gauze in all patterns
all were highly-favored by the fashionable set
