4.2: Madeira - Winemaking

Question 1

On arrival at the winery, what must the grapes go through?

Answer 1

• checked for weight, health and potential alcohol (representatives of IVBAM must be present for the arrival of all grapes)
• destemmed
• crushed

Question 2

Is skin contact used?

Answer 2

• use of skin contact varies according to the producer

- some producers use a period of skin contact for wines made from white grapes

Question 3

Give an example of a grape that often ferments on its skins and describe the final style.

Answer 3

• Tinta Negra

- medium sweet and sweet styles

Question 4

In what type of vessel does fermentation typically take place?

Answer 4

stainless steel vessels

Question 5

What type of yeast kickstarts fermentation?

Answer 5

ambient yeasts

Question 6

What does the timing of fortification depend on?

Answer 6

• depend on the style of wine that is being produced

- sweeter styles fortified earlier in the fermentation to retain more residual sugar

Question 7

How long might the fermentation last for sweet styles? Dry styles?

Answer 7

• wine for sweet styles may ferment for a little as two days

- wine for dry styles may ferment for around a week

Question 8

What are the requirements for the fortifying alcohol? What does that mean in terms of style?

Answer 8

• must be 96% abv grape spirit (compared to 77% abv in Port)

- therefore it will be neutral in style

Question 9

From where can producers purchase the fortifying alcohol?

Answer 9

free to purchase the alcohol from wherever they choose, but its quality must be checked by IVBAM

Question 10

After fortification, what is the typical abv?

Answer 10

17-18% abv

Question 11

How are the wines typically clarified prior to maturation?

Answer 11

• fined (bentonite, gelatine and albumin are commonly used)

- filtered (usually with diatomaceous earth)

Question 12

How is the maturation pathway determined?

Answer 12

batches of wines will also be tasted and classified according to their style and quality

Question 13

What does the maturation process for modern Madeira replicate?

Answer 13

the hot, oxidative conditions that the wine was subject to when being shipped in the 17th and early 18th centuries

Question 14

What are the two options for maturing Madeira?

Answer 14

1. Estufagem

2. Canteiro

Question 15

Describe the Estufagem aging process.

Answer 15

• quick aging process
• wine heated to 45-50°C (a maximum of 55°C is permitted) in temperature controlled stainless steel vessels called estufas
• tanks headed using a heating coil or water jacket
• wine must remain in tank for a minimum of 3 months
• wine allowed to cool, filtered

Question 16

Who must seal and break the seal of the tank in the both ageing system?

Answer 16

representatives from IVBAM

Question 17

Are the estufas typically filled to the top? Why or why not?

Answer 17

• no, usually not filled to the top

- permits some oxidation

Question 18

For what types of wines is the Estufagem ageing system typically used?

Answer 18

• does not produce wines with the same level of complexity as the more gradual canteiro process
• 3- and 5-year-old wines made from Tinta Negra

Question 19

Describe the Canteiro aging process.

Answer 19

• longer and more resource-intensive process associated with higher quality wines
• wines matured in old oak vessels in a warm environment (loft or warehouse heated by the sun)
• vessels usually 400-700 L in size
• temperatures usually range from 25-40°C

Question 20

Are the Canteiro aging vessels typically filled to the top? Why or why not?

Answer 20

• yes, typically left with a small headspace of air

- to aid oxidative development.

Question 21

Where are the Canteiro aging vessels housed?

Answer 21

• producers might own warehouses that reach different average temperatures (depending on location and design)
• warehouses might have warmer and cooler areas within them (e.g. vessels stored nearer the roof will be warmer than those nearer the ground)

Question 22

Where are the youngest wines typically stored in the Canteiro system? To where do they move as they age?

Answer 22

• in the warmest conditions

- moved to cooler parts of the warehouse for extended ageing

Question 23

What happens to the wine during ageing in the Canteiro system?

Answer 23

• high humidity + warm conditions cause evaporation of water
• alcohol rises very gradually to 19-20% abv
• other compounds in the wine, such as sugars, acidity and aroma compounds to concentrate
• volatile acidity increases

Question 24

What is required during Canteiro aging?

Answer 24

• rarely racked

- requires regular topping up

Question 25

When can Canteiro wines be sold?

Answer 25

cannot be sold until three years after the 1st January following harvest

Question 26

Beyond the two systems, what further ageing might be carried out?

Answer 26

in larger wooden vessels, stainless steel vats or demi-johns to limit further evaporation

Question 27

Why might producers try to age their wines for longer?

Answer 27

• producers may apply to IVBAM for an EU subsidy to offset the cost of ageing their wine if they agree to age it for a further five years
• subsidy depends on the volume in hectolitres

Question 28

If a producer gets the subsidy to age for 5 additional years, what is the protocol?

Answer 28

• IVBAM seal and unseal the vessel
• producer can request permission to check the wine and adjust it as necessary, under the supervision of a representative from IVBAM, within the five years
• when five years comes to an end, the producer can decide whether to apply for another five-year subsidy

Question 29

What is the effect of the Madeira maturation process on the wine?

Answer 29

• oxidation causes colour to gradually turn to brown
• primary aromas develop into tertiary notes of dried fruit
• warm ageing conditions speed up oxidation and cause caramelisation of the sugar in the wine

Question 30

Describe Madeira after ageing.

Answer 30

final wines have a range of flavours dependent on style, age and quality:

• dried fruits such as apricot and raisin
• caramel
• chocolate
• nuts
• often a smoky character

Question 31

Is most Madeira vintage?

Answer 31

• no, most is non-vintage
• blending wines from different vintages and different vineyard locations for consistency of style year-on-year is standard practice

Question 32

Why is blending important? Give examples.

Answer 32

1. consistency:
   - different vintages, different vineyard locations. barrels in different areas of the warehouse blended for consistency
2. complexity:
   - wines in the youngest age categories may be matured mainly in estufas but the blend may include some older canteiro wines to bring a greater complexity of flavours
   - barrels in different areas of the warehouse blended

Question 33

What is used in a number of the inexpensive and mid-priced wines to add colour?

Answer 33

caramel

Question 34

What is used to strip color?

Answer 34

carbon fining

Question 35

What can be added to increase sweetness? Decrease sweetness?

Answer 35

• increase: RCGM

- decrease: blending with drier wine

Question 36

What must all Madeira be labelled with (as of 2015)?

Answer 36

bottling date