waves, currents, tides

Question 1

at what depth do waves begin to break

Answer 1

(*0.05)
1/20 wavelength

Question 2

how do you calculate the velocity of a deep water wave?

Answer 2

wavelength/wave period

Question 3

in shallow water, are water particles in the wave crest ahead or behind those at the bottom of the wave?

Answer 3

ahead

Question 4

as waves approach the shore, their heights ____ and their wavelengths become ____

Answer 4

increase
shorter

Question 5

At what water depth will a deep water wave “feel bottom”

what water depth will a wave with a wavelength of 46m feel bottom

Answer 5

depth of 1/2 wave length

23

Question 6

at what water depth will a wave with a 46m wave length break?

Answer 6

46*0.05=2.3

Question 7

what two factors determine how far from the shoreline waves will begin to break

Answer 7

water depth
wavelength

Question 8

when incoming waves cause the water to rise and fall, but not form a surf zone, what does this indicate?

Answer 8

deep water waves (depth is more than 1/2 wave length)

Question 9

what is the velocity of a tsunami with a wavelength of 125 mi and a period of 15 min in mph

Answer 9

500

Question 10

what is a name of a current that flows along the atlantic coast of the us? warm or cold

Answer 10

california
cold

Question 11

what is another way for the surface waters of the Antlantic to sink other than the formation of ice?

Answer 11

water radiates heat to atmosphere

Question 12

Which is more densser, the anatarctic Bottom water or the NorthAtlantic Deep waterr

Answer 12

antarctic bttom water (high lat)

Question 13

Is the meditarreanena intermediate water more or less dense than the water in the adjacent Atlantic ocean? why?

Answer 13

more
(more affected by dry climate, less precipitation=less freshwater=more salinity=more dense)

Question 14

assume that water sinkiing in the north atlantic near greenland takes 1000 yrs to resurface in the indian ocea, a distance of about 18,000 km. what is the velocity of this deep current in km/yr

Answer 14

18,000/1000=18

Question 15

what effect will the concentraated energy from wave erosion eventually have on tge shape of the coatline

Answer 15

straightens irregularity

Question 16

what are three shoreline features created by longshsore currents

Answer 16

spits, baymouth bars, beach

Question 17

what feature indicates that a headland has been recently uplifef

Answer 17

marine terrace

Question 18

point reyes is a headland undergoing severe waveerosion, what might it produce

Answer 18

sea stack

Question 19

describe the evolution of an irregular coastline

Answer 19

sea arch, bay, isladn
sea stack and wave cut cliff, spit, tombolo
beach, baymouth bar, spit, cliff

Question 20

what are emergent coastlines?

what are two characterisitics of it>

Answer 20

area uplifted or sea level decreased

wave cliffs annd wave platforms

Question 21

what are submergent coastlines?

Answer 21

sea level increases or land subsides

Question 22

what is another way for emergent coastlines to be produced?

Answer 22

covered by ice sheets, melted, and land sprang back

Question 23

which coastlines are emergent
why

name staate

name a bay

Answer 23

pacific
tectonic forces

big sur, ca

hudson

Question 24

what size are the beaches of emergent coastlines? submergent>

what does the coastline of submergent look like

Answer 24

narrow
wide

irregular bc river valleys flooded producing bays

Question 25

which coastlines are submergent | name state and how htey becae submeregent

Answer 25

atlanatic and gulf | maine-sibsided from ice, ice melted, flooded by rising sea level

Question 26

whaat is a characterisitc of atlantic and gulf coastlines | sand movement

Answer 26

barrier islands | absorbs wave enrgey