waves and tides Flashcards

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1
Q

factors that effect wave energy

A

strength of wind
duration of wind
size of fetch

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2
Q

how does area of low pressure caused

A

caused by variation in surface heating by the sun. the larger there difference in pressure, the stronger the winds. stronger winds involve stronger waves.

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3
Q

how does the strength of the wind effect wave energy

A

wind is air that moves from an area of high pressure to low pressure. the difference in pressure difference is caused by variations in surface heating by the sun. the larger the difference in pressure, the stronger the winds, therefore the stronger the waves.

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4
Q

how does the duration of the wind effect wave energy

A

if the wind is active for longer periods of time, the energy of the waves will build up and increase.§

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5
Q

how does the size of the fetch effect wave energy.

A

the larger the distance the waves can flow, then there can be more energy created in the waves therefore the stronger the waves.

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6
Q

constructive waves?

A

build up depositional landforms

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7
Q

destructive waves?

A

remove depositional landforms§

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8
Q

features of constructive waves

A

formed by weather systems that are operated in the ocean.
long wavelengths
6-9 frequency per minute
low waves which surge up the beach
strong swash, weak backwash
occurs on gently sloped beaches

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9
Q

features of destructive waves

A

localised ström events that happen closer to the coast
short wavelength
11-16 frequency per minute
high waves, that plunge onto the beach
weak swash, strong backwash
occurs on steeply sloped beaches

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10
Q

what’s responsible for tides

A

gravity

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11
Q

tidal range

A

the difference in heights of tides.

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12
Q

spring tides

A

occur when the sun moon and earth are in alignment.
both gravitational forces combine and pull the ocean towards them. on the other side of the earth, this creates the lowest possible tides.
this creates the biggest possible tidal range.

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13
Q

neap tides

A

the lowest possible tide range occurs when the sun and moon are perpendicular to each other.
both gravitational forces act against against Rach other, so the pull is minimalist at low tide but is higher at low tide.
this creates the smallest possible tidal range.

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14
Q

marine erosional processes

A

corrosion
abrasion
attrition
hydraulic action
corrasion
wave quarrying

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15
Q

wave quarrying

A

similar to hydraulic action, except more pressure
exert a pressure up to 30 tonnes
hammers the rock surface

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16
Q

corrosion (solution)

A

mildly acidic seawater causes alkaline rocks, such as limestone, to be eroded via carbonation weathering.

17
Q

hydraulic action

A

air is forced into cracks and joints, and the high pressure causes the cracks to widen, when the waves push in and out of the cracks. over time this causes the rocks to widen.

18
Q

whats cavitation.

A

bubbles in the water implode under high pressure, creating tiny jets that erode the rock.

19
Q

what are tides

A

tides are changes in the water levels of seas and oceans caused by gravitational pull of the moon and to a lesser extent the sun.

20
Q

how do tides effect the coastal environment

A

the coastline experiences two high and low tides each day. the relative difference is called the tidal range.

21
Q

spring tides

A

spring tides are caused when the sun moon and earth are in alignment. this creates the strongest pull, and causes the highest possible tide. therefore resulting in a spring tide.

22
Q

high energy coast features

A

long fetch
consistency strong waves
landforms such as caves arches etc
significant erosion and substantial transportation.
driven by prevailing wind
imputs energy into system from many sources

23
Q

what are neap tides

A

neap tides occur within the first quarter and third quarter of the moon. it occurs when the moon and sun are perpendicular to each other. this therefore means that their gravitational pull isn’t aligned therefore isn’t as strong. this means that the bulge isn’t as big, therefore resulting in a lower higher tide and a higher lower tide. this is known as a neap ride

24
Q

low energy coast features

A

waves less powerful
tidal currents relatively gentle
landforms such as spits, sandunes
associated with deposition
sediment from rivers and LSD - fine sediments slow things down.

25
Q

why do tidal ranges differ throughout the uk

A

due to the morphology of the seabed and the coastline.