Waves Flashcards

1
Q

Prevailing winds

A

Straight - regular recession
Angled - angled swash pushes sediment at angle — sediment pushed along beach (bar/spit)
Direction determines how long energy in water has to travel - size of fetch

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2
Q

Seasons

A

Winter - more depressions - more LP systems
Water level rises + creates larger storm surges + more destructive waves
Summer means hot weather so constructive waves

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3
Q

Climate change

A

Higher temp = thermal expansion - higher SL (higher swell waves)
More destructive waves since water reaches higher (erosion higher)
More varied temp = extreme weather - more depressions (LP systems)
Higher temp = higher energy in systems = more tropical storms
Higher temp = more precipitation - more bio + chem weathering

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4
Q

Daily tides

A

As Earth rotates, moon’s gravitational attraction pulls water
HT bulge on one side (right) - inertia counteracts so HT bulge on other side (left) too
Water stretched so LT on other sides (top and bottom)

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5
Q

Spring tides

A

Every 2 weeks - twice a lunar month
Full/new moon means earth, sun, moon aligned
Gravitational pulse added - HHT and LLT

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6
Q

Neap tides

A

1 week after spring tide
Sun and moon 90°
Gravitational pulls partially cancel out - HLT and LHT

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7
Q

Perigean spring tides

A

4 times a year
Moon has elliptical orbit so sometimes closer to Earth (stronger pull)
Coincides with spring tide so even larger pull - HHHT and LLLT

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