Waves Flashcards
Prevailing winds
Straight - regular recession
Angled - angled swash pushes sediment at angle — sediment pushed along beach (bar/spit)
Direction determines how long energy in water has to travel - size of fetch
Seasons
Winter - more depressions - more LP systems
Water level rises + creates larger storm surges + more destructive waves
Summer means hot weather so constructive waves
Climate change
Higher temp = thermal expansion - higher SL (higher swell waves)
More destructive waves since water reaches higher (erosion higher)
More varied temp = extreme weather - more depressions (LP systems)
Higher temp = higher energy in systems = more tropical storms
Higher temp = more precipitation - more bio + chem weathering
Daily tides
As Earth rotates, moon’s gravitational attraction pulls water
HT bulge on one side (right) - inertia counteracts so HT bulge on other side (left) too
Water stretched so LT on other sides (top and bottom)
Spring tides
Every 2 weeks - twice a lunar month
Full/new moon means earth, sun, moon aligned
Gravitational pulse added - HHT and LLT
Neap tides
1 week after spring tide
Sun and moon 90°
Gravitational pulls partially cancel out - HLT and LHT
Perigean spring tides
4 times a year
Moon has elliptical orbit so sometimes closer to Earth (stronger pull)
Coincides with spring tide so even larger pull - HHHT and LLLT