Wave Formation

Question 1

step 1

Answer 1

wind blows across the water surface causing frictional drag which creates ripples leading to circular orbital water motion or particles in the ocean

Question 2

step 3

Answer 2

wave height increases but the wave length decreases as wave velocity decreases meaning waves get closer together

Question 3

step 2

Answer 3

as the sea bed becomes shallower (moving towards the shore) the circle becomes more elliptical resulting in more horizontal waves

Question 4

step 4

Answer 4

this causes water to collapse as the top of the wave has the same velocity but the bottom slows due to friction. water then backs up behind the wave