Unit 1 - Changing landscapes Flashcards
What are coastal inputs?
Energy from wind, waves and tides: sediment from weathering and erosion processes.
What are coastal outputs?
Sediment removed by longshoredrift and sediments deposited as landforms, such as dunes.
What are coastal transfers?
Processes of erosion and transportation that can move sediment around the system.
What are coastal stores?
Sediment deposited in landforms.
What is the coastal sediment coastal budget?
- when sediment input = output, the budget is balanced (in a steady state equilibrium)
- if factors such as human activity reduce the sediment input, the budget will be out of balance
- when the system in one place is out of balance, it can increase erosion further along the coastline
What is a sediment cell?
A stretch of coastline where the sediment budget is self contained. Also known as a littoral cell.
How many sediment cells are there in england/wales?
11 major cells divided into smaller sub cells
What are the 3 types of equilibrium?
Steady state
Metastable
Dynamic
What is a steady state equlibrium?
Changes in energy and the resulting change in coastlines do not vary much from the long term average conditions.
- example seasonal changes, but average gradient stays the same
What is a metastable equilibrium?
The coastal zone changes from one state of equilibrium to another due to an event causing a change in conditions.
- example sedimental removal from dredging, there is a new equlibrium with a reduced beach
What is a dynamic equilibrium?
The state of equiliibrium changes over a longer timescale than metastable equilibrium
- example climate change, changing beach profiles gradually
What is the difference between positive and negative feedback?
Positive feedback - increases the initial change that had occured
Negative feedback - reduces the effect of the change, helping the coast return to its original condition
What are tides?
Rise and fall of sea level
How are tides created?
By the gravitational effect of the moon which pulls water towards it to create high tides, with a balancing increase in sea level on the opposite side of the earth.
Between these two areas, the sea level is lower, creating low tides.
What are spring tides?
Twice a month the earth, sun and moon are aligned, so the gravitational pull is greatest, creating higher than average tides.
What are neap tides?
When the sun and moon are at right angles to each other the oppositional pull weaker, creating lower than average tides.
What are semi-diurnal tides?
2 high tides and 2 low tides every 24hrs
What are diurnal tides?
One high tide and one low tide every 24hrs
What are the 3 types of currents?
Tidal
Shore normal
Longshore
What are tidal currents?
Water floods the intertidal zone at high tide, moving and depositing sediment . As the tide falls (ebb) sediment moves in the reverse direction
What are shore normal currents?
Waves align parallel to the coastline, pushing water straight up the beach. Water returning directly away from the shore can form strong, fast moving channels of water called ripcurrents
What are longshore currents?
Waves approach the shoreline at the oblique angle but return straight down the beach, moving sediment parallel to the shore.
How are waves created?
Transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the sea surface
Stronger winds increase fictional drag and the size of waves.
Features of a constructive wave?
HLPSE(SB)MG
- wave height of less than 1 metre
- wave length of up to 100m between crests
- longer waves periods (6-8 breaking each minute)
- gentle steepness
- low wave energy
- stronger swash
- sediment moves up beach to form a berm
- increase gradient of upper beach
Features of a destructive wave? HLPSE(SB)MG
- wave height greater than 1 metre
- shorter wave length (20m between crests)
- shorter wave period (10-14 breaking each minute)
- steep steepness (plunging)
- high wave energy
- stronger backwash
- sediment moves down beach
- steeper upper beach, gentle lower beach
When are destructive waves more common?
More frequent in the winter with stormier weather because of the jet stream steering more atlantic depressions over the UK during the winter.
What are high energy coastal environments?
Erosive, rocky coastlines
What processes affect high energy coastal environments?
- physical, chemical and biological weathering
- mass movement
- transportational processes
What are examples of a high energy coastal landform?
- cliffs
- wavecut platforms
What is the dominant process in low energy coastal environments?
Deposition of material, creating sandy coastlines.
What are examples of low energy coastal landforms?
Sandunes, spits and bars
What can develop at an estuarine coastline?
Mudflats
What 3 things do wave type depend on?
- wind velocity
- length of time wind has blown across the water
- the fetch
What is the ‘fetch’ of the wave?
The distance the wind has blown over the water
What are the 4 stages of wave refraction?
friction - direction - energy - result
- friction from the seabed in shallow water slows the progress of waves
- waves change direction, so that they approach the coastline aligned parallel to it
-energy is concentrated at headlands, dissipated in bays - concentrated energy means erosion, lower energy leads to deposition, creating beaches
What is wave reflection?
A wave hitting vertical surface such as a cliff face or sea wall bounces back without breaking or losing its energy. The clapotis effect.
What 3 lithological factors effect erosion?
Hardness
Composition
Structure
How does rock hardness effect erosion?
- harder rock like granite erodes slowly
- softer rock like clay have less strength to erode quicker
How does composition of rock affect erosion?
- mineral composition effects the rate of weathering
- rate of hydrolysis (reactivity to water)
- whether the substance is soluable in water
How does rock structure affect erosion?
- many joints and bedding planes case weaknesses
- faults cause major weakness
- folding in rock creates weakness
What are the 4 sub-aerial processes?
- physical/mechanical weathering
- chemical weathering
- biotic weathering
- mass movement
What are the 4 marine erosional processes?
-hydraulic action
- abrasion
- attrition
- solution
What are the 3 physical/mechanical weathering processes?
Freeze thaw, salt crystallisation and water-layer weathering.
What is freeze-thaw?
Repeated freezing and thawing of water results in the expansion of cracks in rocks, causing small fragments to break off.
What is salt crystallisation?
Sea water evaporates from cracks, allowing salt crystals to grow, exerting pressure and causing pieces of rock to break off.
What is water-layer weathering?
Constant wetting and drying causes clay-rich rock to expand and contract, resulting in cracks, which aid physical weathering processes.
What are the 6 chemical weathering processes?
Solution
Oxidation
Hydration
Hydrolysis
Chelation
Carbonation
What is ‘solution’?
The removal of rock dissolved in acidic rain water.
What is oxidation?
Oxygen dissolved in water reacts with minerals, causing oxidation.
What is hydration?
Minerals in rocks absorb water, which weakens their structre, making them more suseptible to weathering.
What is hydrolysis?
Breakdown of rock by acidic water and produces clay and soluble salts, especially feldspar in granite
What is chelation?
Organisms produce substances called chelates, which decompose minerals.