Sea Flashcards

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1
Q

What plays a role in coastal changes

A

The power and action of the waves

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2
Q

How are waves created

A

Waves are created by wind blowing over the surface of the sea

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3
Q

What influences the size and energy of a wave

A
  • how long the wave has been blowing
  • the strength of the wind
  • how far the wave has travelled (fetch)
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4
Q

What are the two types of waves

A

Destructive waves and constructive waves

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5
Q

What is a awash

A

When a wave breaks and water is washed up on the beach

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6
Q

What is a backwash

A

When the water runs back down the beach

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7
Q

What is a constructive wave

A

constructive waves build up the coats and their swash is stronger than the backwash

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8
Q

What is a destructive wave

A

destructive waves erode the coast and their backwash is stronger than the swash

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9
Q

What are the characteristics of a destructive wave, give 8

A
  • they are created in stormy conditions
  • they are created from big waves when a string wind has been blowing for a long time
  • they occur when the wave has travelled a long fetch
  • they have a stronger backwash than swash
  • they have a short wave length and are high and steep
  • are powerful
  • have a steep sea bed
  • more waves per minute
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10
Q

What are the characteristics of a constructive wave, give 7

A
  • they are created in calm weather
  • they break on the shore and deposit material, building up beaches
  • they have a swash stronger than the backwash
  • they have a long wavelength and are shorter in height
  • are less powerful
  • have a gentle sea bed
  • fewer waves per minute
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11
Q

What is coastal erosion

A

The wearing away and breaking up of rock along the coat

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12
Q

What are the different ways destructive waves erode the coast

A

Hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition, solution

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13
Q

What is hydraulic action in coastal erosion

A

The force of the water breaking the rock cliff and sea bed down

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14
Q

What is abrasion in coastal erosion

A

When bits of rock and sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like sandpaper

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15
Q

What is attrition in coastal erosion

A

When waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other, and they break and become smoother

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16
Q

Solution in coastal erosion

A

When acids contained in sea water dissolve some types of rock such as chalk and limestone

17
Q

What are the features caused by coastal erosion (name 9)

A

Bays, headlands, caves, arches, stacks, cliffs, notches, wave cut platforms and stumps

18
Q

How do headlands form

A

Headlands form along coastlines in which bands of soft and hard rock outcrop at right angles to the coastline. Erosion is more slower where there is more resistant rock, and the hard rock is left sticking out into the sea

19
Q

How do bays form

A

Bays form where the rock is softer thus eroded faster and this leaves indents in the coastline between two headlands

20
Q

How are caves formed

A

Weak areas of a headland are attacked by waves and are opened to form a cave

21
Q

How do arches form

A

Caves are widened and deepened by erosion to form an arch

22
Q

How do stacks form

A

As the roof of an arch is continually undercut it eventually collapses leaving an isolated stack

23
Q

How do stumps form

A

When stacks are continually eroded ,eventually they will collapse to form a stump. Ships will be covered by water at high tide

24
Q

How do cliffs form

A

Cliffs are steep rock faces along the coastline which are formed by abrasion

25
Q

How does a wave cut platform form

A

When cliffs retreat they leave behind a sloping rocky platform that is exposed when at low tide

26
Q

How does a wave cut notch form

A

When waves undercut the foot of the cliff, forming and indent

27
Q

What features are formed by coastal deposition

A

Sand bars, spits, tombolos, lagoons

28
Q

How do sand bars form

A

They are ridges of sand built offshore by destructive waves, they are either submerged or partly exposed

29
Q

How do spits form

A

Spits are long stretches of sand joined to the mainland and on one end. It is formed when prevailing winds blow against an angle to the coastline, creating long shore drift

30
Q

What is the prevailing wind

A

The usual direction of the wind in an area

31
Q

What is a longshore drift

A

It is the movement of sand along the shore by wave action.It happens when waves approach the beach at an angle. The swash carries material up and along the beach

32
Q

How do lagoons form

A

A lagoon forms when a sand bar or spit form across a river mouth. The river water separated from the sea by the sand is the lagoon

33
Q

How do tombolos form

A

A tombolo is formed when a spit joins an island to the mainland