Mech Advantage Flashcards
What are the three categories of MAs
- Simple
- Compound
- Complex
How do you determine if the MA is odd or Even
If the MA starts at the load, its ODD
If the MA starts at the anchor, its EVEN
Define a “simple” MA system
A simple MA system consists of a single haul connection between the load and the haul team
Define a “compound” MA system
A compound MA consists of a simple MA pulling on the haul line of another simple MA
Define a “complex” MA system
A complex MA is neither a simple, nor a compound MA.
It will also incorporate “floating” pulleys that move toward each other as the system is put in motion
Define a “integral” MA system
An MA system that consists of a single rope
Define a “Ganged On” MA system
An MA system that is built separate from the working line with a second rope, and is attached to the mainline by a haul prussik
Define a “pig rig” MA
A pig rig is a compound MA system that is made up of two identical simple MAs that is then ganged on the mainline.
Define a Change of Direction Pulley
A c.o.d. pulley is is a pulley that is attached to the anchor and is last pulley before the haul team.
Define “IMA” or Ideal Mechanical Advantage
The IMA is the ratio between the input and the output of an MA in an ideal world with 100% efficiencies
Define “PMA” or Practical Mechanical Advantage
The PMA is the ratio between the input and the output of an MA with efficiency losses from pulleys or carabiners calculated.
What are some considerations when deciding on what MA you should use in a given situation
- rope and equip available
- size of load
- number of haulers available
- haul field or work area
- the “throw” same as haul field?
- adaptability
What are some considerations concerning a Ganged On MA
- will need a haul slacker
- will need two ropes or a split rope
- Can prebuild
- easier knot pass
- more versatile anchors
What are some considerations concerning an integral MA
- only one rope needed
- does not need a haul slacker
- more complicated and gear intensive knot pass
- can not prebuild
What equipment is needed to build a 3:1 Integral MA (not including the anchor, rigplate, or the carabiner used to attach end of the rope to the shelf
- One rope
- two pulleys (single or double)
- three prusiks (One set of blue and red, and a red)
- two carabiners