Anchors Flashcards
What does the letters in the acronym SERENE stand for
Strong Equalized Redundant Efficient No Extension
What does the letters in the acronym ERNEST stand for
Equalized Redundant No Extension Strong Timely
What are the seven main anchors used by CAMRA
- Full Strength
- Wrap 3 pull 2
- Wrap 3 pull 2 (interwoven)
- Multi Point (fixed) (load sharing)
- Multi Point (equalizing)
- 3:1 Back Tie
- Voodoo
What are the characteristics of the
Full Strength Tie off anchor
- used for a hasty rappel for medical to access subject
- min of five to seven wraps from bottom up
- considered to be 100% efficient (no load on knot)
- finish with a fig 8 follow through.
What are the characteristics of a Wrap 3 Pull 2
- three wraps around anchor
- pull two legs away from anchor
- keep water bend centered
- webbing should be cleanly dressed
- can be fixed or equalizing
What are the characteristics of a Wrap 3 Pull 2 interwoven
- constructed of two separate standard W3P2 around the same anchor
- one side of is interwoven
- used as part of a 3:1 backtie for marginal anchor
- attempt to use two different webbing colors for easy safety
describe a multi point fixed anchor
- an anchor made from two marginal anchors
- legs are tied together with an overhand knot to share the load in a fixed direction
- incorporates a carabiner as a “marlin spike” in the overhand to allow for easy deconstruction
describe a multi point (load equalizing) anchor
- an anchor made from two marginal anchors
- one of the legs incorporate a “magic X twist” to provide for redundancy, and to allow for constant equalizing between the two anchors in all directions
- useful if the fall line is not in a fixed direction - allows for side to side movement
describe a 3:1 back tie anchor
- Used to back up a marginal anchor with a bomb proof anchor
- interwoven wrap 3 pull 2 is used around marginal anchor
- ratchet prusik is used as a progress capture on the last leg of 3:1
- tied off with a munter mule (same as radium)
- carabiners should be used instead of pulleys
- “exercise” the rope several time to take out slack
describe a VooDoo
its magic
What is the minimum amount of bolts needed if building anchors from them
two
If artificial pro is used, what is the minimum amount of points to be used
three
What is the breaking strength of a Wrap 3 pull 2?
39.6
What is considered to be a “bombproof” anchor
An anchor that will hold 10X its intended load
AND
can be used as an anchor for both the mainline AND belay
What is considered to be a standard anchor
an anchor that will hold 10X the intended load but
CAN NOT be used as an anchor for both mainline and belay
