Lip products Flashcards
is the best performing category in 2023, with retail value sales rising by 31% in current terms to Php7.7 B
Lip products
is the leading player in 2023, with retail value share of 9%
L’Oreal Philippines Inc
drive adoption of skin tints and lip tints in the Philippines
High humidity levels in Southeast Asia
Local brand ___________ became popular among younger Filipinos due to luxury image and wide array of colors
Sunnies Face
are set to be the key target audience for color cosmetics
younger audience
Outer surface of the lips is covered by ……
epidermis and hair, sweat glands, and sebaceous glands
____________ muscle makes a hooked curve toward the exterior at the edge of the vermillion area (responsible for the shape of the lips)
Orbicularis oris
no hair, serves as border of lips
Vermillion area
has very rapid cell turnover
Vermillion border
Continuous wetting of the lips with the saliva does not help chapped lips, and provides only a temporary relief (t or f)
T
TYPES OF LIP MAKEUP
- lipstick
- lip glosses
- lip liners
- lip balms (lip protectants)
- enhance the appearance of the lips by imparting color and gloss
- waxes, butters, fats, oils, and hydrocarbons, plus pigments
- flavors, fragrances, and ingredients for UV protection and plumping effect
- solid form due to high amount of wax
lipstick
- give the lips a glossy luster and , sometimes, subtle color
- less viscous than traditional lipsticks and more transparent
- higher ratio of oils and lower ratio of waxes (unlike lipstick which is very solid and compact because of waxes)
- clear or translucent or exhibit various shades of opacity with various finishes
lip glosses
- to redefine the outline of the lips
- blends of waxes, butters, fats, and oils, but finished formulation is harder and level of pigment is slightly lower
- slim pencils or fluids encased in special pens with a fine brush to dispense the product
lip liners
- temporarily prevent dryness of the lips and help relieve chapping
- waxes, oils, fats, butters, and hydrocarbons, as well as ingredients to prevent chapping and drying of the lips
LIP BALMS (LIP PROTECTANTS)
Lip cancer occurs more frequently in women (t or f)
F; occurs more in men, due to widespread use of lipstick and lip balms with UV filters by women
Typical ingredients
- waxes
- oils, fats, butter
- color additives
- antioxidants
- preservatives
- fragrances
- texturizing agents
- flavoring agents
- fixatives
● Function as structuring agents, providing lipsticks with rigidity and solidity
● Stabilize sticks and allow them to be molded into shape
● Usually mixed with oils to achieve desired softness
WAXES
- Beeswax,
○ Candelilla wax,
○ Carnauba wax,
○ Paraffin wax,
○ Ozokerite wax,
○ Microcrystalline wax,
○ Polyethylene, and
○ Lanolin alcohol
WAXES
● Provide slippery and soft texture to the formulations
● Have moisturizing effect and act as emollients
● Used to disperse pigments and pearls
● High concentration may result in a greasy and sticky feel
OILS, FATS, AND BUTTER
● ____________ silicone provide excellent carrier properties for transfer-resistant lipsticks
(OILS, FATS, AND BUTTER)
Low molecular weight
■ Castor oil,
■ Olive oil,
■ Coconut oil;
Plant oils like
■ Shea butter
■ Cocoa butter;
Butters like
■ Isopropyl myristate
■ Butyl stearate
Fatty acid esters like
■ Polyisobutene,
■ Mineral oil and
■ Petrolatum; and
Hydrocarbons
dimethicone
Silicones
Most important components of lipsticks
Color additives
Cannot be _________ since the formula is anhydrous
(Color additives)
water-soluble
○ Iron oxides,
○ Titanium dioxide, and
○ Zinc oxide;
inorganic pigments
include reds, oranges, and yellows;
Organic colors
○ Red 7 Lake
○ Yellow 5 Lake;
Lakes
○ Micas coated with iron oxides and
titanium dioxide, and
○ Bismuth oxychloride
Special effects pigments
Provides a pearlescent effect
Bismuth oxychloride
create silky and satin effects, and opacify the mass; (Color additives)
Smaller pigment particles
create high luster, sparkling or glittering, with high brilliance and transparency (Color additives)
Larger-sized particles
Added to prevent rancidity and oxidation of sensitive ingredients
antioxidants
vitamin E,
butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and
butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)
antioxidants
Protect from microbiological contamination
PRESERVATIVES
parabens and phenoxyethanol
PRESERVATIVES
● Used to mask fatty or wax odor
● Should not be irritating or toxic by ingestion, and stable at high temperatures (should be non toxic)
FRAGRANCES
● Added to provide pleasant taste
FLAVORING AGENTS
● Lip plumping lipsticks contain (flavoring agents)
cinnamon or menthol
● Used to improve the texture, application, and stability of
products
TEXTURIZING INGREDIENTS
○ Talc,
○ Silica,
○ Mica,
○ Titanium dioxide
- Bismuth oxychloride
TEXTURIZING INGREDIENTS
gives soft focus effect (texturizing ingredients)
Titanium dioxide
gives a satin, shimmering effect to the product (texturizing ingredients)
Bismuth oxychloride
● Used for long-lasting formulas
● Prevent colors from bleeding on the lips, and helps seal the lipstick on the lips
FIXATIVES
silicone resins
FIXATIVES
Types of lipsticks
- matte lipstick
- glossy or glaze lipstick
- creme lipstick
- shimmer lipsticks
- long-wearing lipstick
- lip plumping lipstick
● Rich in pigments and waxes but lighter in emollients (because emollients =
shine)
● Contain less oil, and deflect light and are less shiny
Matte lipsticks
matte lipsticks are longer wearing than shinier types of lipstick (t or f)
T
● Heavy in oils, and often contain flavors and scents
● Add shine and volume to the lips
● Come in lighter shades, and coverage lasts longer than lip glosses
Glossy or glaze lipstick
Main disadvantage of glossy or glaze lipstick
they wear off easily
● With high concentration of emollients which creates a shiny, glossy finish
● Contains pigments with smaller particle size to achieve silky effect
● Wears off quickly, and must be reapplied
Creme lipsticks
● Also known as frosted lipsticks
● Contain light-reflecting particles like coated micas to add luster to color
● Used for special occasions and are available in lighter colors
Shimmer lipsticks
● Two-part system consisting of colored base formula and colorless cover which
gives the shine
● Formula can be drying
Long-wearing lipstick
● Designed to make lips appear fuller by slightly irritating the delicate skin on
the lips to make them swell
Lip plumping lipstick
Lip plumping lipsticks may contain _________
May contain ginger, cinnamon, cayenne, camphor, and menthol
LIPSTICK MANUFACTURE
- MOLDING
- MOLDING WITHOUT FLAMING
- SIMPLE MIXING WITHOUT HEATING
- EXTRUSION
● Most frequently applied technique
molding
Four step process of molding
- Pigment pre-milling
- Melting and mixing
- Molding
- Flaming
- Mixture of pigment mass and hot wax is agitated to remove trapped air
- Mixture poured into tubing molds
3.Tubes are cooled
MOLDING WITHOUT FLAMING
● Used for lip glosses without waxes in the formulation
SIMPLE MIXING WITHOUT HEATING
● Commonly used for lip liners and lip glosses in pencil form
EXTRUSION
COMMON QUALITY PROBLEMS
- Aeration (or Pinholing)
- Laddering
- Chipping or Cracking
- Deformation
- Cratering
- Streaking
- Sweating
- Mushy Failure
- Seams (or Vertical Marks)
● Formation of tiny holes on the surface of the stick which may be caused by immediate molding that prevented air from leaving the melted mix
Aeration (or Pinholing)
- Multilayering
Laddering
Multilayering happens due to
○ The mold being kept at a very low temperature,
○ The lipstick mix not being hot enough, or
○ Slow filling rate (should be filled in one go; wag pa stop stop)
● Occurs when lipstick mix is too brittle
Chipping or Cracking
lipstick mix is too brittle due to
○ Imbalanced wax/oil ratio
or
○ Faulty cooling technique
● Ideal shape is not achieved
● More noticeable in softer formulas
Deformation
○ Adverse temperature gradient across the sticking during molding,
○ Placing the split mold too quickly onto the cold plate, or
○ Imbalanced formula
Deformation
● Characterized by dimples (spots) on the stick’s surface formed during flaming
● May be caused by the presence of trace amounts of oils either in the formula or in the formulation process
Cratering
● Appearance of discontinuities and streaks, or thin lines of different color substances on the stick’s surface
● Stick does not appear homogeneous
Streaking
● Appearance of oil droplets on the stick’s surface
● Due to incompatibility between individual ingredients in the formulation and imbalance composition (separation ng oil or imbalance ng composition)
Sweating
● Phenomenon where central core of the stick lacks structure and breaks due to the
○ Speed and/or
○ Temperature of molding
Mushy Failure
● Form when split molds are used when attachment of the two parts is not precise (may line)
Seams (or Vertical Marks)
PERFORMANCE PARAMETER
MOISTURIZING EFFECT
● May employ non-invasive techniques like ___________ and ____________
(MOISTURIZING EFFECT)
conductance and capacitance
● Measurement taken at baseline and at regular intervals during the study
MOISTURIZING EFFECT
