eye makeup Flashcards
○ Protect the eyeball from local injury
○ Aid in regulating the light reaching the eye
○ Tear film maintenance
○ Tear flow
○ Distributing tear film over the eye surface when blinking
eyelids
help to protect our vision by defending against debris and signaling the eyelids to close
Eyelash
eyelashes do not lose pigment with age (t or f)
T
eyelashes are influenced by androgen (t or f)
F
Types of eye makeup products
- mascara
- eyeliners
- eyebrow liners
- eyeshadows
- eye makeup removers
● Produce an intense look and make eyelashes thicker, longer, and darker
● Brings out contrast between iris and sclera
● Consists of blend of waxes, pigments, texturizers, emulsifier, and solvents
MASCARA
● Help draw a precise line at the base of the eyelashes to contour the eyes
● Gives illusion of larger or smaller eye
● Made as emulsions consisting of water, texturizers, pigments, emollients, and emulsifiers
○ With polymers to increases viscosity, texture and adhesion
● Made into pencil, liquid, gel/creme, and cake forms
EYELINERS
- Designed to accentuate the natural line and natural hair, create fuller brows, or cover areas that have no hair
● Formulated to be harder than the eyeliner and lip liner
EYEBROW LINERS
● Add depth and dimension to the eyes and help draw attention to the eye appearance or color
● Applied to the eyelids
● Most commonly available as powders, but also as gel, creme, and stick
EYESHADOWS
● Designed to remove eye makeup from the eyelashes and eyelids
● Most popular forms are creams, lotions, and remover pads
EYE MAKEUP REMOVERS
Types of mascaras
- cake mascaras
- liquid mascaras
● Has a waxy texture and is applied to the eyelashes using an applicator brush
● Based on soap/wax/pigment blend which is emulsified when a wet brush is applied to its surface
Cake Mascaras
● Waxes increase the glossy appearance, while soaps give a dull appearance (t or f)
T
Cake mascaras include (types of ingredients)
- soaps
- emollients
- waxes
- pigments
- antioxidants
■ Glyceryl monostearate
■ Triethanolamine stearate
Soaps
■ Isopropyl myristate
■ Lanolin
Emollients
■ Carnauba wax
■ Beeswax
Waxes
Types of liquid mascaras
a. Water-resistant or cream mascara
b. Water-proof liquid mascara
○ Formulates as O/W emulsions with waxes, pigments, and other ingredients
Water-resistant or cream mascara
○ Anhydrous formulations made by dispersing waxes in non-aqueous solvents
Water-proof liquid mascara
Which lasts longer, water-resistant or waterproof?
water proof
Ingredients of liquid mascaras
- solvents
- Structurants
- Thickeners and stabilizers
- Emulsifiers
- Color additives
- Film formers
- Preservatives
- Antioxidants
- chelating agents
- emollients
- lash-elongation synthetics
- additional ingredients
● Act as vehicle and deliver other ingredients
Solvents
● Water-resistant mascara use water as primary solvent, in combination with __________, ___________, ___________
glycerin, propylene glycol, and sorbitol
Examples of mascara solvents
(liquid mascaras)
- Hydrocarbons
- Silicones
- Paraffin distillates
Examples of hydrocarbons
(liquid mascaras)
○ Isododecane
○ Polyisobutene
Example of silicones
(liquid mascaras)
- cyclomethicone
Example of paraffin distillates
(liquid mascaras)
C8-9 isoparaffin
● Provide optimal, creamy texture for gliding onto the lashes
Structurants
Structurants are also known as ___________________
consistency ingredients
Examples of structurants
(liquid mascaras)
Primary waxes:
○ Beeswax
○ Candelilla wax
○ Carnauba wax
○ Ozokerite wax
○ Cetyl alcohol
● Increase the viscosity and provide good texture
Thickeners and stabilizers
Examples of thickeners and stabilizers
(liquid mascaras)
● Waxes
● Clays
● Cellulose derivatives
● Gums
● Acrylate polymers
● Emulsifiers
Example of clays
(liquid mascaras)
Bentonite clay
Example of cellulose derivatives
(liquid mascaras)
hydroxyethyl cellulose
Example of gums
(liquid mascaras)
- gum arabic
- xanthan gum
Example of emulsifiers
(liquid mascaras; under thickeners and salbilizers)
Stearic acid
● Stabilize the immiscible parts of the formulation
Emulsifiers
Non-ionics like:
○ Steareth-2
○ Glyceryl stearate
○ Isoceteth 20
Emulsifiers
● Most important component of the mascara formulation
● Frequently black, brown, and blue
Film formers
● Act as adhesion promoters and enhance film formation on the lashes
Film formers
- Cellulosic polymers
- Gums
- Acrylate copolymers
- Other polymers
Film formers
○ Hydroxyethyl cellulose
● Cellulosic polymers
○ Polyvinylpyrrolidone
○ Polyvinyl alcohol
○ Carboxymethyl chitosan
Polymers
● Protection from microbial contamination
preservatives
● Parabens
● Potassium sorbate
● Phenoxyethanol
preservatives
● Prevent oil rancidification
antioxidants
● Vitamin E
● BHA
● BHT
antioxidants
● Contribute to product stability
chelating agents
EDTA and its derivatives
chelating agents
● Used in combination with waxes to produce required consistency
emollients
● Jojoba oil
● Palm oil
● Castor oil
● Provitamin B5
● Panthenol
emollients
● Provide illusion of false lashes
Lash-elongating synthetics
● Include hollow particles to create thicker lashes or pearlescent pigment for extra effects
additional ingredients
● Applied after the eyeshadows to give eyes a more striking appearance
● Available as pencil, liquid, gel/cream, and cake
eyeliners
○ Create the most perfectly defined eye, and provide longer wear
○ Consists of deeply pigmented emulsions in an aqueous or non-aqueous base, which also contains film-forming agents
○ Have the same ingredients as mascaras, but are less viscous
Liquid eyeliners
Ingredients of liquid eyeliners
■ Solvents
■ Thickening agents
■ Surfactants/emulsifiers
■ Structuring agents
■ Film-formers - act as fixatives / para
magstay
■ Preservatives
○ Supplied in wooden case or pencil cases
○ Lead are blends of waxes, hardened fats, oils, pigments, and pearls
○ Formulated to be softer than lip liners
Pencil eyeliners or soft crayon pencils
____________ are typically formulated by extrusion or molding
Leads
○ Prepared in colors ranging from black to brownish-black and brown to blue
○ Available in wooden case or plastic case
○ Harder than lip liner
Eyebrow liners
soft to hard formulation
pencil liner -> lip liner -> eyebrow liner
○ Loose and pressed products are the most popular
○ Applied on upper eyelid using soft sponge-tipped applicator or fine brush
○ Consists of fillers, pigments, and pearls
powder eyeshadow
Ingredients of powder eyeshadow
- fillers
- absorbents
- binders
- colorants
- preservatives
● Provide the base for pigments
● Contribute to the slip and consistency of powders
● Typically white powder that help dilute the colors
Fillers
● Talc
● Magnesium stearate
● Starch
● Bismuth oxychloride
● Micas
filler
● Dense powder that increases overall density of eyeshadow powders to make them easier to compress
● Provide matte finish surface effect for the eyeshadow and applied surface \
● Absorb liquids (excess wetness or oils like fragrances prior to mixing into powder)
absorbent
● Kaolin
● Starch
● Calcium carbonate
absorbent
● Help cake stick together in the godet,
● Add water repellency to the formula,
● Provide adherence to the skin
● are used as pigment dispersing agents and emollients
binders
Solid binders include:
starches
Liquid binders include:
○ Mineral oil
○ Isopropyl myristate
○ Silicone oils
- Include mainly inorganic colorants like iron oxides and ultramarines
- Special effect pigments like pearlescent pigment are used with restrictions
colorants
- used to keep microorganisms away from the products
preservatives
○ Are mainly anhydrous emulsions based on oils thickened with either clay gelling agents or waxes, and high viscosity
○ Water-based emulsions contain oils, emollients, and thickeners plus pigments, pearls, and preservatives
○ May be in gel form as water-free or water-based formulations
cream and gel eyeshadows
○ Based on waxes, oils, and texturizing ingredients with dispersed pigments
○ Generally softer than lipsticks
eyeshadow sticks
Available as
○ milks based on O/W emulsions,
○ waters in the forms of aqueous solutions with ultra mild surfactants, and
○ pads and wipes impregnated with make-up remover solution
eye makeup removers
pH should be equivalent to _____________ and formulated as isotonic preparation
(EYE MAKEUP REMOVER)
human tears (pH = 7.4)
ingredients of eye makeup remover
- solvents
- emollients
- extra mild surfactants
- humectants
- thickeners
- pH buffers
- preservatives
- chelating agents
- others
Water for water-based formulations
(supposedly safer to use)
(eye makeup removers)
solvents
Mineral oil,
Isodecyl oleate, and
Cyclohexasiloxane
(eye makeup removers)
emollients
Poloxamer,
Sulfosuccinate, and
PEG-40 stearate
(eye makeup removers)
extra mild surfactants
Glycerin
(eye makeup removers)
humectants
Carbomers
(eye makeup removers)
thickeners
Disodium phosphate or
Triethanolamine
(eye makeup removers)
pH buffers
Parabens,
DMDM hydantoin, and
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
(eye makeup removers)
Preservatives
Calcium disodium EDTA, and Citric acid
(eye makeup removers)
Chelating agents
Color additives,
Fragrances,
Proteins,
Natural extracts like cucumber extract and aloe extract (Mostly for claims purposes)
(eye makeup removers)
Others
QUALITY PROBLEMS
- breaking
- sticking
- smudging
- drying-up
usually caused by air remaining in powder mixture or inappropriate breaking force
breaking
blend to pressing tools may result from poor lubrication
sticking
applied eye makeup product may be caused by high oil or glycerin concentrations
- addressed by using volatile silicones and film-formers
smudging
refers to formation of hard cake at the bottom of the container
drying-up
EVALUATION PARAMETERS
- CAKE STRENGTH OR HARDNESS OF CAKES
- FLOW PROPERTIES OF POWDER
- BULK DENSITY
- TAPPED DENSITY
- COMPRESSIBILITY OF POWDER MIXTURES
- GLAZING AND PAY-OFF PRESSURE TESTING
- WATER RESISTANCE
- TRANSFER RESISTANCE
- DISPERSION OF PIGMENTS AND COLOR UNIFORMITY
CAKE STRENGTH OR HARDNESS OF CAKES
- drop test
- penetration test
● Simulates accidental drop of product by consumer
● The filled godet is dropped onto standard surface from set height to assess ability to withstand shock
● Number of drops before breaking is counted
Drop test
● Indicate presence of air pockets beneath sample surface
● Needle probe penetrates into pressed cake with set force and distance of penetration is registered, or probe penetrates from defined distance and force of penetration is determined
○ Force at set distance or distance at set force
Penetration test
● Measured by the flow time of given volume of powder and its angle of repose
● The smaller the angle, the better the flow
● The larger the angle, the greeted the stickiness off the powder and increased resistance to flow
FLOW PROPERTIES OF POWDER
● ___________ is determined for loose powders to ensure:
○ That there is no air entrapped in the powder and
○ That incorrect fill weights are minimized
Bulk density (ρ bulk)
● Determined by measuring volume of known mass of powder sample that has been passed through a screen
into a graduated cylinder or through a volume-measuring apparatus into a cup
● Expressed in grams/milliliter
Bulk density
Bulk density depends on both:
○ Density of powder particles and the
○ Spatial arrangement of particles in the powder bed
● Tapped density (ρ tapped) is the density attained after mechanically “tapping” the powder, usually in a device
that lifts and drops a volumetric measuring cylinder containing the powder at a fixed distance
● Typically higher than the bulk density
○ Tapping decreases the volume occupied, which increases the density
● Provide information on the compressibility of a powder mixture alongside bulk density
Tapped density
○ The weight of material transferred to the eyelids when applying an eye shadow
○ Spreads onto skin, not just stuck on applicator
Pay-off
● Comparison of bulk and tapped densities to measure interparticular interactions, and to predict ability of
powders to flow
● Smaller values refer to better flow,
● High numbers show higher level of interaction between particles
COMPRESSIBILITY OF POWDER MIXTURES
GLAZING AND PAY-OFF PRESSURE TESTING
- PAY-OFF
- GLAZING
○ The appearance of dark, oily surface hardening within the pressed cake
glazing
● Performed by rubbing the pressed cake in a circular motion for predetermined time with a puff or small
applicator
○ Measure how much is rubbed off
● Signs of glazing and mass of product transferred to the applicator are measured
Glazing and pay-off pressure testing
● Color uniformity and streakiness may be evaluated
○ Visually or
○ Using a
■ Spectrophotometer or
■ Colorimeter or
■ Image analysis
DISPERSION OF PIGMENTS AND COLOR UNIFORMITY
