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3rd shift Topics > eye makeup > Flashcards

eye makeup Flashcards

1
Q

○ Protect the eyeball from local injury
○ Aid in regulating the light reaching the eye
○ Tear film maintenance
○ Tear flow
○ Distributing tear film over the eye surface when blinking

A

eyelids

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2
Q

help to protect our vision by defending against debris and signaling the eyelids to close

A

Eyelash

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3
Q

eyelashes do not lose pigment with age (t or f)

A

T

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4
Q

eyelashes are influenced by androgen (t or f)

A

F

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5
Q

Types of eye makeup products

A
  • mascara
  • eyeliners
  • eyebrow liners
  • eyeshadows
  • eye makeup removers
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6
Q

● Produce an intense look and make eyelashes thicker, longer, and darker
● Brings out contrast between iris and sclera
● Consists of blend of waxes, pigments, texturizers, emulsifier, and solvents

A

MASCARA

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7
Q

● Help draw a precise line at the base of the eyelashes to contour the eyes
● Gives illusion of larger or smaller eye
● Made as emulsions consisting of water, texturizers, pigments, emollients, and emulsifiers
○ With polymers to increases viscosity, texture and adhesion
● Made into pencil, liquid, gel/creme, and cake forms

A

EYELINERS

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8
Q
  • Designed to accentuate the natural line and natural hair, create fuller brows, or cover areas that have no hair
    ● Formulated to be harder than the eyeliner and lip liner
A

EYEBROW LINERS

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9
Q

● Add depth and dimension to the eyes and help draw attention to the eye appearance or color
● Applied to the eyelids
● Most commonly available as powders, but also as gel, creme, and stick

A

EYESHADOWS

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10
Q

● Designed to remove eye makeup from the eyelashes and eyelids
● Most popular forms are creams, lotions, and remover pads

A

EYE MAKEUP REMOVERS

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11
Q

Types of mascaras

A
  • cake mascaras
  • liquid mascaras
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12
Q

● Has a waxy texture and is applied to the eyelashes using an applicator brush
● Based on soap/wax/pigment blend which is emulsified when a wet brush is applied to its surface

A

Cake Mascaras

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13
Q

● Waxes increase the glossy appearance, while soaps give a dull appearance (t or f)

A

T

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14
Q

Cake mascaras include (types of ingredients)

A
  • soaps
  • emollients
  • waxes
  • pigments
  • antioxidants
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15
Q

■ Glyceryl monostearate
■ Triethanolamine stearate

A

Soaps

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16
Q

■ Isopropyl myristate
■ Lanolin

A

Emollients

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17
Q

■ Carnauba wax
■ Beeswax

A

Waxes

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18
Q

Types of liquid mascaras

A

a. Water-resistant or cream mascara
b. Water-proof liquid mascara

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19
Q

○ Formulates as O/W emulsions with waxes, pigments, and other ingredients

A

Water-resistant or cream mascara

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20
Q

○ Anhydrous formulations made by dispersing waxes in non-aqueous solvents

A

Water-proof liquid mascara

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21
Q

Which lasts longer, water-resistant or waterproof?

A

water proof

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22
Q

Ingredients of liquid mascaras

A
  • solvents
  • Structurants
  • Thickeners and stabilizers
  • Emulsifiers
  • Color additives
  • Film formers
  • Preservatives
  • Antioxidants
  • chelating agents
  • emollients
  • lash-elongation synthetics
  • additional ingredients
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23
Q

● Act as vehicle and deliver other ingredients

A

Solvents

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24
Q

● Water-resistant mascara use water as primary solvent, in combination with __________, ___________, ___________

A

glycerin, propylene glycol, and sorbitol

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25
Q

Examples of mascara solvents

(liquid mascaras)

A
  • Hydrocarbons
  • Silicones
  • Paraffin distillates
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26
Q

Examples of hydrocarbons

(liquid mascaras)

A

○ Isododecane
○ Polyisobutene

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27
Q

Example of silicones

(liquid mascaras)

A
  • cyclomethicone
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28
Q

Example of paraffin distillates

(liquid mascaras)

A

C8-9 isoparaffin

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29
Q

● Provide optimal, creamy texture for gliding onto the lashes

A

Structurants

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30
Q

Structurants are also known as ___________________

A

consistency ingredients

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31
Q

Examples of structurants

(liquid mascaras)

A

Primary waxes:
○ Beeswax
○ Candelilla wax
○ Carnauba wax
○ Ozokerite wax
○ Cetyl alcohol

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32
Q

● Increase the viscosity and provide good texture

A

Thickeners and stabilizers

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33
Q

Examples of thickeners and stabilizers

(liquid mascaras)

A

● Waxes
● Clays
● Cellulose derivatives
● Gums
● Acrylate polymers
● Emulsifiers

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34
Q

Example of clays

(liquid mascaras)

A

Bentonite clay

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35
Q

Example of cellulose derivatives

(liquid mascaras)

A

hydroxyethyl cellulose

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36
Q

Example of gums

(liquid mascaras)

A
  • gum arabic
  • xanthan gum
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37
Q

Example of emulsifiers

(liquid mascaras; under thickeners and salbilizers)

A

Stearic acid

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38
Q

● Stabilize the immiscible parts of the formulation

A

Emulsifiers

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39
Q

Non-ionics like:
○ Steareth-2
○ Glyceryl stearate
○ Isoceteth 20

A

Emulsifiers

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40
Q

● Most important component of the mascara formulation
● Frequently black, brown, and blue

A

Film formers

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41
Q

● Act as adhesion promoters and enhance film formation on the lashes

A

Film formers

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42
Q
  • Cellulosic polymers
  • Gums
  • Acrylate copolymers
  • Other polymers
A

Film formers

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43
Q

○ Hydroxyethyl cellulose

A

● Cellulosic polymers

44
Q

○ Polyvinylpyrrolidone
○ Polyvinyl alcohol
○ Carboxymethyl chitosan

A

Polymers

45
Q

● Protection from microbial contamination

A

preservatives

46
Q

● Parabens
● Potassium sorbate
● Phenoxyethanol

A

preservatives

47
Q

● Prevent oil rancidification

A

antioxidants

48
Q

● Vitamin E
● BHA
● BHT

A

antioxidants

49
Q

● Contribute to product stability

A

chelating agents

50
Q

EDTA and its derivatives

A

chelating agents

51
Q

● Used in combination with waxes to produce required consistency

A

emollients

52
Q

● Jojoba oil
● Palm oil
● Castor oil
● Provitamin B5
● Panthenol

A

emollients

53
Q

● Provide illusion of false lashes

A

Lash-elongating synthetics

54
Q

● Include hollow particles to create thicker lashes or pearlescent pigment for extra effects

A

additional ingredients

55
Q

● Applied after the eyeshadows to give eyes a more striking appearance
● Available as pencil, liquid, gel/cream, and cake

A

eyeliners

56
Q

○ Create the most perfectly defined eye, and provide longer wear
○ Consists of deeply pigmented emulsions in an aqueous or non-aqueous base, which also contains film-forming agents
○ Have the same ingredients as mascaras, but are less viscous

A

Liquid eyeliners

57
Q

Ingredients of liquid eyeliners

A

■ Solvents
■ Thickening agents
■ Surfactants/emulsifiers
■ Structuring agents
■ Film-formers - act as fixatives / para
magstay
■ Preservatives

58
Q

○ Supplied in wooden case or pencil cases
○ Lead are blends of waxes, hardened fats, oils, pigments, and pearls
○ Formulated to be softer than lip liners

A

Pencil eyeliners or soft crayon pencils

59
Q

____________ are typically formulated by extrusion or molding

A

Leads

60
Q

○ Prepared in colors ranging from black to brownish-black and brown to blue
○ Available in wooden case or plastic case
○ Harder than lip liner

A

Eyebrow liners

61
Q

soft to hard formulation

A

pencil liner -> lip liner -> eyebrow liner

62
Q

○ Loose and pressed products are the most popular
○ Applied on upper eyelid using soft sponge-tipped applicator or fine brush
○ Consists of fillers, pigments, and pearls

A

powder eyeshadow

63
Q

Ingredients of powder eyeshadow

A
  • fillers
  • absorbents
  • binders
  • colorants
  • preservatives
64
Q

● Provide the base for pigments
● Contribute to the slip and consistency of powders
● Typically white powder that help dilute the colors

A

Fillers

65
Q

● Talc
● Magnesium stearate
● Starch
● Bismuth oxychloride
● Micas

A

filler

66
Q

● Dense powder that increases overall density of eyeshadow powders to make them easier to compress
● Provide matte finish surface effect for the eyeshadow and applied surface \
● Absorb liquids (excess wetness or oils like fragrances prior to mixing into powder)

A

absorbent

67
Q

● Kaolin
● Starch
● Calcium carbonate

A

absorbent

68
Q

● Help cake stick together in the godet,
● Add water repellency to the formula,
● Provide adherence to the skin
● are used as pigment dispersing agents and emollients

A

binders

69
Q

Solid binders include:

A

starches

70
Q

Liquid binders include:

A

○ Mineral oil
○ Isopropyl myristate
○ Silicone oils

71
Q
  • Include mainly inorganic colorants like iron oxides and ultramarines
  • Special effect pigments like pearlescent pigment are used with restrictions
A

colorants

72
Q
  • used to keep microorganisms away from the products
A

preservatives

73
Q

○ Are mainly anhydrous emulsions based on oils thickened with either clay gelling agents or waxes, and high viscosity
○ Water-based emulsions contain oils, emollients, and thickeners plus pigments, pearls, and preservatives
○ May be in gel form as water-free or water-based formulations

A

cream and gel eyeshadows

74
Q

○ Based on waxes, oils, and texturizing ingredients with dispersed pigments
○ Generally softer than lipsticks

A

eyeshadow sticks

75
Q

Available as
○ milks based on O/W emulsions,
○ waters in the forms of aqueous solutions with ultra mild surfactants, and
○ pads and wipes impregnated with make-up remover solution

A

eye makeup removers

76
Q

pH should be equivalent to _____________ and formulated as isotonic preparation

(EYE MAKEUP REMOVER)

A

human tears (pH = 7.4)

77
Q

ingredients of eye makeup remover

A
  • solvents
  • emollients
  • extra mild surfactants
  • humectants
  • thickeners
  • pH buffers
  • preservatives
  • chelating agents
  • others
78
Q

Water for water-based formulations
(supposedly safer to use)
(eye makeup removers)

A

solvents

79
Q

Mineral oil,
Isodecyl oleate, and
Cyclohexasiloxane

(eye makeup removers)

A

emollients

80
Q

Poloxamer,
Sulfosuccinate, and
PEG-40 stearate

(eye makeup removers)

A

extra mild surfactants

81
Q

Glycerin

(eye makeup removers)

A

humectants

82
Q

Carbomers

(eye makeup removers)

A

thickeners

83
Q

Disodium phosphate or
Triethanolamine

(eye makeup removers)

A

pH buffers

84
Q

Parabens,
DMDM hydantoin, and
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate

(eye makeup removers)

A

Preservatives

85
Q

Calcium disodium EDTA, and Citric acid

(eye makeup removers)

A

Chelating agents

86
Q

Color additives,
Fragrances,
Proteins,
Natural extracts like cucumber extract and aloe extract (Mostly for claims purposes)

(eye makeup removers)

A

Others

87
Q

QUALITY PROBLEMS

A
  • breaking
  • sticking
  • smudging
  • drying-up
88
Q

usually caused by air remaining in powder mixture or inappropriate breaking force

A

breaking

89
Q

blend to pressing tools may result from poor lubrication

A

sticking

90
Q

applied eye makeup product may be caused by high oil or glycerin concentrations
- addressed by using volatile silicones and film-formers

A

smudging

91
Q

refers to formation of hard cake at the bottom of the container

A

drying-up

92
Q

EVALUATION PARAMETERS

A
  • CAKE STRENGTH OR HARDNESS OF CAKES
  • FLOW PROPERTIES OF POWDER
  • BULK DENSITY
  • TAPPED DENSITY
  • COMPRESSIBILITY OF POWDER MIXTURES
  • GLAZING AND PAY-OFF PRESSURE TESTING
  • WATER RESISTANCE
  • TRANSFER RESISTANCE
  • DISPERSION OF PIGMENTS AND COLOR UNIFORMITY
93
Q

CAKE STRENGTH OR HARDNESS OF CAKES

A
  • drop test
  • penetration test
94
Q

● Simulates accidental drop of product by consumer
● The filled godet is dropped onto standard surface from set height to assess ability to withstand shock
● Number of drops before breaking is counted

A

Drop test

95
Q

● Indicate presence of air pockets beneath sample surface
● Needle probe penetrates into pressed cake with set force and distance of penetration is registered, or probe penetrates from defined distance and force of penetration is determined
○ Force at set distance or distance at set force

A

Penetration test

96
Q

● Measured by the flow time of given volume of powder and its angle of repose
● The smaller the angle, the better the flow
● The larger the angle, the greeted the stickiness off the powder and increased resistance to flow

A

FLOW PROPERTIES OF POWDER

97
Q

● ___________ is determined for loose powders to ensure:
○ That there is no air entrapped in the powder and
○ That incorrect fill weights are minimized

A

Bulk density (ρ bulk)

98
Q

● Determined by measuring volume of known mass of powder sample that has been passed through a screen
into a graduated cylinder or through a volume-measuring apparatus into a cup
● Expressed in grams/milliliter

A

Bulk density

99
Q

Bulk density depends on both:

A

○ Density of powder particles and the
○ Spatial arrangement of particles in the powder bed

100
Q

● Tapped density (ρ tapped) is the density attained after mechanically “tapping” the powder, usually in a device
that lifts and drops a volumetric measuring cylinder containing the powder at a fixed distance
● Typically higher than the bulk density
○ Tapping decreases the volume occupied, which increases the density
● Provide information on the compressibility of a powder mixture alongside bulk density

A

Tapped density

101
Q

○ The weight of material transferred to the eyelids when applying an eye shadow
○ Spreads onto skin, not just stuck on applicator

A

Pay-off

101
Q

● Comparison of bulk and tapped densities to measure interparticular interactions, and to predict ability of
powders to flow
● Smaller values refer to better flow,
● High numbers show higher level of interaction between particles

A

COMPRESSIBILITY OF POWDER MIXTURES

102
Q

GLAZING AND PAY-OFF PRESSURE TESTING

A
  • PAY-OFF
  • GLAZING
103
Q

○ The appearance of dark, oily surface hardening within the pressed cake

A

glazing

104
Q

● Performed by rubbing the pressed cake in a circular motion for predetermined time with a puff or small
applicator
○ Measure how much is rubbed off
● Signs of glazing and mass of product transferred to the applicator are measured

A

Glazing and pay-off pressure testing

104
Q

● Color uniformity and streakiness may be evaluated
○ Visually or
○ Using a
■ Spectrophotometer or
■ Colorimeter or
■ Image analysis

A

DISPERSION OF PIGMENTS AND COLOR UNIFORMITY

3rd shift Topics (12 decks)

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