Lecture 9 Flashcards
What is a dune due to
wind action
what is a berm due to
wave action
what is a spring tide
when the moon and sun line up to create stronger tides (higher highs and lower lows)
what is a neap tide
when the sun works against the moon for more moderate tides
What is wave refraction?
When waves bend to be parallel to the contours of the sea floor and the shore
What is longshore current?
A current that flows parallel to the shore
What is relative sea level?
The sea level relative to a specific location.
What is eustatic/global sea level?
The sea level due to the volume of water in the ocean.
What is isostatic rebound?
when a load is removed the lithosphere rises up again
How long does land take to rebound after glaciers melt?
Thousands of years.
What path do water molecules follow as waves pass?
Circular paths/orbits
What causes waves to break?
Waves become steeper and unstable as the bottom of the wave slows downs near the shore
What causes wave refraction?
Waves travel slower in shallower water due to friction with the seabed.
Are longshore currents turbulent
Yes, this allows for longshore transport
What causes rip currents
Incoming waves compress water along a beach, offshore-directed currents then surge through surf zone.
