Herbs and the Skin Flashcards
1
Q
What are some of the harmful ingredients found in commercial body care products?
A
Aluminum Coal Tar Dye DEA (diethanolamine), MEA (monoethanolamine), and TEA (triethanolamine): Isopropyl alcohol: FD&C color pigments: Fragrance/perfume/parfum: Nano or micronized ingredients: Palm oil: Phthalates: Triclosan: Formaldehyde: Retinyl palmitate:
2
Q
What is the relationship between the skin and the liver?
A
if the liver isn’t operating at 100%, the body attempts to eliminate toxins through other channels, including the skin. This can show up as itching, blotchiness, eczema, acne, rashes and other irritations.
3
Q
What are the main functions of the skin?
A
The skin protects the body from its environment, including from ultraviolet radiation and many microorganisms. The skin also regulates our internal temperature, excretes waste, guards against dehydration, and aids in the production of vitamin D. With its many sense receptors, the skin also allows us to feel and sense what is going on in our external environment.
4
Q
What role does the skin play in detoxing the body?
A
Along with sweat and sebum, the skin excretes waste from the body. In fact, the skin is an important organ in detoxifying the body—hair follicles and sebaceous glands are very similar to the liver in the way that they process fats and hormones.
5
Q
What are the 3 layers of skin?
A
Epidermis: The epidermis is the skin’s surface. Here, multiple layers of cells (also known as the epithelium) create a protective layer over the dermis and the hypodermis.
Dermis: The dermis contains connective tissue (tissue that connects, supports, or surrounds other tissues and organs), sweat glands, which secrete sweat (a salty fluid) to cool the body off, hair follicles, sebaceous glands, which secrete sebum (a fatty mixture that is meant to lubricate the skin and hair), muscles that pull the hair follicles into a vertical position to create goose bumps, nerve endings that monitor the external environment, and blood vessels.
Hypodermis: The hypodermis is a layer of adipose tissue (fat cells) that helps to keep the body insulated.
6
Q
What is Eczema?
A
Eczema is a common skin condition characterized by inflammation of the skin and sometimes redness, swelling, oozing, scaling, and/or itching.
7
Q
What is Psoriasis?
A
Psoriasis is a chronic and recurrent skin condition characterized by dry, well-circumscribed, silvery, scaling papules and plaques of various sizes (Das, 2017).
8
Q
Is Eczema and Psoriasis caused by external or internal imbalances?
A
Sometimes eczema and psoriasis arise from external causes (e.g., soaps, dyes, and chemicals), but are often due to internal imbalances
9
Q
Which herbal actions are used to support Eczema and Psoriasis?
A
Because these conditions are caused by internal imbalances, they can be ameliorated with nervous system, digestive system, and/or immune system support.
nervine, bitter, and immune-modulating herbs,
Alterative, antipruritic, and anti-inflammatory herbs are all useful for eczema and psoriasis.
Vulneraries may also be useful to support the healing of skin lesions;
emollients can be used to soothe the skin;
astringents are helpful in reducing weeping/oozing..
10
Q
What is a common formula for eczema?
A
This tincture can be taken long-term to address the internal aspects of eczema. As mentioned above, this formula can be individualized by adding herbal support for areas of weakness in the individual (e.g., nervines, digestive bitters, and immune tonics).
Ingredients
20 mL (0.7 fl oz) cleavers (Galium aparine) aboveground parts tincture 20 mL (0.7 fl oz) nettle (Urtica dioica) leaf tincture 20 mL (0.7 fl oz) red clover (Trifolium pratense) aerial parts tincture
Directions
Combine tinctures in a dark-colored 60 mL (2 fl oz) glass bottle.
Suggested usage is up to 5 mL, 3x/day.
11
Q
What causes Acne?
A
Related to hormone fluctuations, high levels of inflammation in the body, and a variety of other internal disharmonies.
12
Q
What external support can be used for Acne?
A
sebum, dirt, or any other substance that can clog pores can exacerbate acne. Once a pore is clogged, bacteria can replicate and form pus. In this case, antimicrobial herbs can be used to keep the bacterial population on the skin in check. Astringent herbs can also be helpful to tighten pores before they become clogged, and anti-inflammatory herbs may also be helpful in reducing inflammation and minimizing redness.
13
Q
What is a common formula used for the internal support of Acne?
A
This tincture includes many of the common herbs that are used internally in cases of acne. This formula can be used as-is or adjusted to fit the constitution and/or specific presentation of acne of the individual taking it.
Ingredients
20 mL (0.7 fl oz) burdock (Arctium lappa) root tincture 20 mL (0.7 fl oz) Oregon grape (Berberis aquifolium) root tincture 20 mL (0.7 fl oz) cleavers (Galium aparine) aboveground parts tincture
Directions
Combine tinctures in a dark-colored 60 mL (2 fl oz) glass bottle.
Suggested usage is up to 5 mL, 3x/day.
14
Q
What are some herbal actions that support healthy skin?
A
Alteratives Anti-Inflammatories Antimicrobials Antipruritics Astringents Emollients Vulneraries
15
Q
What are Alterative?
A
a substance that gently increases elimination of metabolic wastes through the major eliminatory organs (lungs, lymph, skin, kidney, liver, and bowel) thus improving the body’s abilities to heal and function in a healthy manner” (para. 4).
Alterative herbs improve nutrient assimilation, metabolic function, and elimination; they improve our ability to excrete metabolic waste products and often act by supporting the function of one or more of the excretory organs (liver, kidneys, colon, skin, and lungs) and/or the lymphatic system.
16
Q
What is another term for Alteratives?
A
depuratives
17
Q
How are Atleratives used for skin conditions?
A
To help relieve the skin’s pressure to “detoxify” the body while at the same time improving the skin’s ability to eliminate waste and heal. Because alteratives work through the bloodstream, these herbs are best used internally.
18
Q
Which skin conditions benefit the most from alteratives?
A
psoriasis, eczema, acne, and any mysterious skin condition that doesn’t have an obvious cause
19
Q
What are some commonly used alteratives?
A
burdock (Arctium lappa) root and seed,
meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts,
cleavers (Galium aparine) aboveground parts,
lady’s mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris) aerial parts,
yellow dock (Rumex crispus) root.
Oregon grape – Berberis aquifolium (Berberidaceae) – Root, bark
Red clover – Trifolium pratense (Fabaceae) – Aerial parts
Violet – Viola spp. (Violaceae) – Aerial parts
20
Q
What is the botanical name for Oregon grape?
A
Oregon grape – Berberis aquifolium (Berberidaceae) –
21
Q
Which part of Oregon grape is used?
A
Root, bark
22
Q
What are the specific actions of Oregon grape?
A
Alterative, antiemetic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, aperient, astringent, bitter, cholagogue, choleretic, hepatic
23
Q
What are the herbal energetics of Oregon grape?
A
Cooling, drying
24
Q
What are the clinical patterns and uses for Oregon grape?
A
Scaly skin conditions(Psoriasis, eczema, dandruf):
Oregon grape has long been known for its ability to address chronic scaly skin conditions (Hoffmann, 2003), including psoriasis and eczema. Oregon grape’s modern usage parallels its historical use in cases of intractable moist eczema, dandruff, acne, and pruritus. It may work especially well for psoriasis due to its anti-inflammatory nature and ability to slow excessive cellular proliferation (Kane, 2017). Herbalist Michael Moore (1993) suggests combining Oregon grape with buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) in cases of dry or scaly skin, eczema, or psoriasis combined with arthritis. When utilizing Oregon grape for systemic skin conditions, both internal and external use is suggested (Kane, 2017). However, Francis Brinker, N.D. (2003) notes that topical use of Oregon grape, specifically, has two advantages—it allows direct contact of the alkaloids with affected tissues and it also addresses compliance issues based on Oregon grape’s bitter taste. In a report compiled from three clinical trials of patients using topically applied 10% Oregon grape cream for psoriasis, the researchers report that Oregon grape is a safe and effective treatment for mild to moderate psoriasis (Gulliver & Donsky, 2005).
Topical anitmicrobial:
Due to its antimicrobial properties, Oregon grape is often also used in topical preparations for abrasions and bacterial and fungal infections of the skin, including nail fungi (Kloos, 2017; Moore, 1993). Energetically, Oregon grape can be considered for any hot, damp condition of the skin, including inflamed skin eruptions, athlete’s foot, ringworm, and jock itch (Kloos, 2017). Oregon grape’s berberine content is proven effective against specific bacteria including E. coli and Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) and has an antifungal action against Candida and Aspergillus (Bone & Mills, 2013). For topical use, Oregon grape decoction can be used as a wash or compress or made into a cream.
Bitter alterative for slugish digestion:
Oregon grape is a relatively strong bitter with a stimulating effect on the liver and gallbladder that helps to promote the flow of bile and regulate sluggish digestion. It also has an astringent and tonifying effect on the gut mucosa that can help to promote effective absorption. As an alterative, Oregon grape works on several fronts simultaneously: supporting hepatic function, assisting nutrient assimilation, and promoting elimination of waste through the colon; this constellation of effects may be one of the reasons Oregon grape shines as an herb for chronic skin conditions that are rooted not in the tissues of the skin, but in systemic accumulation of metabolic waste that taxes the body’s eliminative system.
25
What are the safety considerations for Oregan grape?
Contraindications: Oregon grape root is contraindicated in pregnancy and should be used with caution if breastfeeding (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparations/Dose: None
26
What is the botanical name for Red clover?
Red clover – Trifolium pratense (Fabaceae) –
27
Which part of red clover is used?
Aerial parts
28
What are the specfic actions of red clover?
Alterative, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, demulcent, estrogenic, expectorant, nutritive, secretory, diuretic, lymphatic
29
What are the herbal energetics of red clover?
Neutral to cooling and moistening
30
What are the clinical patterns and uses of red clover?
Chronic conditions
Red clover is an alterative, meaning it improves chronic conditions throughout the body over time by helping the body to assimilate nutrients and remove metabolic waste products. It is often referred to as a blood cleanser due to its affinity for the lymphatic system and liver. It also works well for supporting chronic inflammatory conditions and degenerative diseases, including as a support in cancer, alongside conventional treatment (Hoffmann, 2003).
Removal of accumulated metabolic waste:
As a diuretic, red clover keeps fluids moving through the lymphatic system and supports elimination of wastes via the urinary system. It also stimulates and nourishes the liver to keep blood well-filtered. Due to these mechanisms, red clover is indicated for conditions that result from buildup of metabolic waste in the body, such as cystic lumps, lymphatic swelling, infections, acne, eczema, and psoriasis (Berger, 1998). It is specifically indicated for hard and swollen nodes, glands, cysts, and other lumps or masses (Garran, 2008). Red clover is sometimes recommended as a specific for breast lumps or dense, fibrocystic breast tissue; while its action as a lymph mover certainly helps here, this indication may also derive from the phytoestrogenic activity of red clover isoflavones. Prior to menopause, these and other phytoestrogens act as competitive inhibitors of estrogens, decreasing overall estrogen activity (Cabrera, n.d.).
Skin conditions:
Due to red clover’s gentle alterative nature, it is a premier herb for many skin conditions Red clover is an alterative with an affinity for the skin, but with its own unique niche. Whereas cleavers is cooling and slightly drying, red clover is more neutral in temperature and slightly moistening; according to herbalist Matthew Wood, red clover is particularly indicated for dry, irritated skin conditions (Wood, 2008). Red clover is also used in the Chinese materia medica to clear heat and restore yin; translating these concepts into the language of Western herbalism, red clover is indicated when there are signs of heat (e.g., redness, irritation) with underlying dryness and deficiency (Holmes, 2006). This is where red clover shines as a nutritive alterative, helping to calm signs of heat and inflammation by supporting both assimilative and eliminative function.
Co-occurence of chronic skin and lung conditions(eczema and asthma):
Red clover can also be applied to the same pattern when it manifests in the respiratory system. Though it’s easily forgotten, the respiratory system is also a route of elimination for metabolic waste, and alteratives can have a supportive function here. Red clover acts as a relaxing expectorant; while it can be useful in soothing an acute cough, it is ideal when there is chronically poor respiratory function with signs of heat and inflammation, particularly when heat and dryness are also present in the skin (Holmes, 2006). One classic example of this pattern is the common co-occurrence of atopic eczema and asthma, presenting with signs of heat and dryness in both the skin (red, itching, burning, and/or cracking eczema patches) and lungs (tightness in chest with wheezing or a dry or rasping cough).
31
What are the safety considerations of red clover?
Contraindications: There is a theoretical contraindication for red clover when also using hormone replacement therapy (HRT) drugs, since they may compete for the same receptors, though there are no reported interactions.
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: Red clover is often listed as contraindicated with blood-thinning medications because it contains coumarins.
Preparation/Dosage: the dicoumarol in clover blossoms only takes on an anticoagulant effect when the herb is fermented—which is why it’s important to dry clover blossom carefully; as long as clover is not moldy or fermented, it does not have a blood-thinning effect.
Concerns: Likewise, there is some concern that red clover may be unsafe for those with a history or high risk of estrogen receptor (ER) positive cancer; while it has not been demonstrably proven to be safe, there is also no evidence that red clover increases incidence of ER-positive breast or uterine cancer (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
32
Which herbs are anti-inflamatory with an infinity for the skin?
tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts,
aloe (Aloe vera) leaf, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root,
St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, plantain (Plantago spp.) leaf,
comfrey (Symphytum officinale) leaf and root,
lavender (Lavandula spp.) bud,
violet (Viola spp.) leaf and flower,
chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts,
meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) root.
33
Which herbs are anti-inflamatory with an infinity for the skin?
tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts,
aloe (Aloe vera) leaf, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root,
St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, plantain (Plantago spp.) leaf,
comfrey (Symphytum officinale) leaf and root,
lavender (Lavandula spp.) bud,
violet (Viola spp.) leaf and flower,
chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts,
meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) root.
Calendula – Calendula officinalis (Asteraceae) – Flower
Chamomile – Matricaria chamomilla (Asteraceae) – Flower
34
What is the botanical name for Calendula?
Calendula – Calendula officinalis (Asteraceae)
35
Which part of Calendula is used?
Flower
36
What are the specific actions of Calendula?
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, cholagogue, hemostatic, lymphatic, vulnerary
37
What are the herbal energetics of Calendula?
Warming
38
What are the clinical patterns and uses of Calendula?
To heal wounds and damaged skin:
Calendula is a powerful wound and tissue vulnerary, used both externally and internally. It has long been used to soothe cuts, burns, bites, sprains, bruises, rashes, sunburns, and abrasions due to its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic, and vulnerary actions. Calendula contains salicylates so works as an analgesic to help ease the pain associated with wounds and skin irritations (Foster, 1993). Calendula also soothes itching and may even soothe the pain of nettle stings!
For wounds that are slow to heal:
Even persistent wounds and old scars are helped by calendula’s supportive role in tissue regeneration. Germany’s Commission E (the German equivalent of the United States Food and Drug Administration) approved internal and topical use of calendula for inflammation of the oral and pharyngeal mucosa and external use for poorly healing wounds (American Botanical Council, 2000a).
radiation induced skin toxicity:
A review of several clinical studies on the use of calendula for skin toxicity and irritation (e.g., redness, itchiness, burning, ulceration, necrosis) as a side effect of radiation therapy concluded that calendula was useful as a preventative agent to reduce the occurrence of skin toxicity (Stubbe & Valero, 2013).
diaper rash:
A clinical study on the use of calendula for treatment of diaper rash showed an improvement in severity of rash and attributed calendula’s therapeutic benefit to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties (Panahi et al., 2012).
For acne or other eruptive skin conditions or infected wounds:
Calendula is a standout herb for skin support in both traditional use and in modern clinical research. Applied topically, it is helpful in situations from minor scratches to serious wounds, and even bacterial skin infections. Calendula supports the body’s own immune response to allergens or antigens, encouraging macrophagic activity that gobbles up bacteria and other invaders, making it specifically helpful for hot, red, pus-filled tissue (Foster, 1993). Acne is one example of a hot, eruptive skin imbalance that can be supported with topical use of calendula, as are conditions such as dermatitis, bruising, boils, and rashes (Bisset, 1994). Applied externally, calendula serves as an antiseptic agent.
For allergic skin reactions:
In vitro studies show that calendula extract protects skin cells against oxidative stress and cell death and damage by scavenging free radicals (Alnuqaydan et al., 2015). It also appears that calendula extracts downregulate inflammation by activating transcription factors and protein production by skin cells and slowing prostaglandin production (Nicolaus et al., 2017). This may be one reason that calendula is helpful in many reactive, swollen skin conditions such as allergies, atopic dermatitis, and insect bites.
For digestive and liver support.:
Calendula can also be used internally, and its slightly bitter taste hints at its use for the digestive system. Calendula is considered a cholagogue, supporting the gallbladder and liver and consequently the digestive system and skin.
for healing gut mucosa:
And, just as it helps to resolve infection, irritation, and inflammation in the skin, calendula works to heal and soothe the gut mucosa,
To move lymph:
and may also be useful as a systemic antimicrobial and immune support (Hoffmann, 2003), as it stimulates lymphatic function.
39
What are the safety considerations of Calendula?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: Those with sensitivity to other plants in the Asteraceae (daisy) family may be sensitive to calendula.
Drug/herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dose: None
Concerns: None
40
What is the botanical name for Chamomile?
Chamomile – Matricaria chamomilla (Asteraceae)
41
Which part of Chamomile is used?
Flower
42
What are the specific actions of Chamomile?
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, carminative, nervine
43
What are the herbal energetics of Chamomile?
Cooling and drying
44
What are the clinical patterns and uses of Chamomile?
For inflammatory skin conditions, especially "weeping" conditions:
While today it is often thought of as an herb that primarily supports digestion, chamomile is also a superior herbal ally for inflammatory conditions, including various skin disorders both acute and chronic.
For inflammatory skin conditions ranging from acne to poison ivy rash to sunburn, chamomile can be taken internally and applied topically. A 2011 study found that a chamomile solution used as a compress for skin lesions was as effective as hydrocortisone in calming inflammation (Charousaei et al., 2011). Other clinical trials have demonstrated chamomile’s usefulness in eczema and weeping wounds and as a mouthwash for gingivitis (Aertgeerts et al., 1985; Glowania et al., 1987; Pourabbas et al., 2005). A strong infusion of chamomile tea can be used as a face wash for acne and a chamomile bath can be used for inflammatory conditions that are more widespread. Chamomile flowers can also be made into a poultice for smaller areas of skin inflammation.
To support the digestive system
One of chamomile’s gifts is its versatility. It is a useful herb for colicky babies, as well as elders with deficient digestion; those of delicate constitution to more fiery types are all served by its actions on the digestive system.
To ease indigestion caused by nervous tension:
Chamomile’s traditional use as a nervine relaxant, mild bitter, and digestive tonic make it ideal for soothing many kinds of GI imbalances, particularly when stress is wreaking havoc on digestive function. The Eclectics described chamomile as having affinities for both the nervous system and the GI tract, subduing irritation in both systems, and aiding in cases where nervous irritation was itself the cause of gastric upset (Felter & Lloyd, 1983).
To combat infection
Its antimicrobial quality (due in part to constituents such as α-bisabolol and cyclic ethers (Mills & Bone, 2000)) makes it helpful for combating infection both topically and internally.
For pain associated with spasms and cramping of the digestive tract,
Chamomile’s constituents inhibit or modulate the production of inflammatory prostaglandins, leukotrienes, and pro-inflammatory cytokines (Mills & Bone, 2000), which may help to explain its traditional use in addressing gastrointestinal and uterine cramping and muscle spasm, insomnia and anxiety, ulcers and wounds, and rheumatic pain.
45
What are the safety considerations of Chamomile?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: Those with allergic sensitivity to Asteraceae (daisy) family plants may experience sensitivity to chamomile.
Herb/Drug Interaction: None
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
46
Which herbs are considered good antimicrobials for the skin?
calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower,
chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) flower, meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts,
thyme (Thymus vulgaris) aerial parts,
sage (Salvia officinalis) aerial parts,
St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, barberry and Oregon grape (Berberis spp.) root and bark.
Lavender – Lavandula spp. (Lamiaceae) – Flower bud
Yarrow – Achillea millefolium (Asteraceae) – Aerial parts
47
What is the botanical name for Lavender?
Lavender – Lavandula spp. (Lamiaceae)
48
Which part of Lavender is used?
Flower bud
49
What are the specific actions of lavender?
Analgesic, antibacterial, antidepressant, antispasmodic, carminative, circulatory stimulant, diaphoretic, nervine
50
What are the herbal energetics of lavender?
Cooling and drying
51
What are the clinical patterns and uses of lavander?
Though lavender is commonly added to topical herbal preparations for its scent alone, lavender offers many actions that benefit the skin. Due to its antibacterial and analgesic properties, lavender is useful for disinfecting cuts, wounds, and sores while it soothes pain and aids healing. Its circulatory stimulating effect also helps to encourage healthy blood flow to the site of a wound and thus encourages resolution (Foster, 1993; McIntyre, 1996).
Lavender also soothes the itch and pain of insect bites. When used to soothe burns, lavender reduces the severity and scarring of the burn and speeds healing (7Song, 2013; Berger, 1998). For this purpose, a strong, chilled lavender tea can be mixed into a thick aloe gel and applied after the burn has cooled. This could also be applied to sunburned skin, since antioxidants in lavender also reduce skin damage from sunburn while it cools and soothes pain.
52
What are the safety considerations of lavender?
Lavender is generally regarded as safe.
53
What is the botanical name for Yarrow?
Yarrow – Achillea millefolium (Asteraceae)
54
Which part of Yarrow is used?
Aerial parts
55
What are the herbal actions of Yarrow?
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, astringent, choleretic, diaphoretic, diuretic, styptic, vulnerary
56
What are the herbal energetics of Yarrow?
Cooling and drying
57
What are the specific uses for Yarrow?
Yarrow is well-known for its vulnerary properties. It was commonly used by soldiers in combat from the time of the ancient Greeks through the early 20th century, which some of its common names reflect: soldiers’ woundwort, staunch weed, nosebleed, woundwort, and carpenter’s weed (Berger, 1998; McIntyre, 1996).
No first aid kit is complete without yarrow for its antimicrobial, styptic, anti-inflammatory, astringent, and vulnerary actions. Yarrow’s unique blend of properties makes it ideal for warding off infection, stopping blood flow, and reducing swelling and pain in wounds. Herbalist Robin Rose Bennett (2014) uses yarrow for “old or new bruises, swellings from poisonous bites and stings, and fresh wounds” (p. 480). Yarrow’s effectiveness for wounds is related to its ability to regulate the flow of blood to and from the skin’s surface through a variety of mechanisms (Wood, 2007).
To stop bleeding and disinfect a wound, apply a poultice of fresh yarrow leaves, a pinch of dried yarrow leaf powder, or a squirt of yarrow extract to a wound, ideally after cleansing. Yarrow can also be added to topical formulas for bacterial, fungal, viral, and inflammatory skin conditions. For such conditions, it can be prepared as a wash, compress, infused oil, salve, or cream.
58
What are the safety considerations for Yarrow?
Yarrow is contraindicated during pregnancy due to its high volatile oil content. Yarrow may cause hypersensitivity in those with an allergy to plants in the Asteraceae (daisy) family.
59
What are antipruritics?
An antipruritic is a substance that eases itching. Antipruritic herbs can be helpful for contact dermatitis or any other itchy skin condition.
60
Which herbs are considered to be good antipruritics?
calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower,
oat (Avena sativa) straw and seed,
licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root,
chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts
61
What is the botanical name for Chickweed?
Chickweed – Stellaria media (Caprifoliaceae)
62
Which parts of Chickweed is used?
Aerial parts
63
What are the herbal actions of chickweed?
Alterative, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antipruritic, astringent, demulcent, diuretic, emollient, expectorant, galactagogue, lymphatic, nutritive, vulnerary
64
What are the herbal energetics of chickweed?
Cooling and moistening
65
What are the specific uses for chickweed?
Chickweed has a theme to its supportive properties: lubrication. It is a very juicy herb, and it lubricates dry and irritated parts of the body both in the joints and topically on the skin. It helps to moisten, cool, and soothe irritation and inflammation throughout the body. Due to its lubricating qualities, people who eat chickweed regularly often report a reduction in arthritis and rheumatic pain (Hoffmann, 2003).
Due to its moistening properties, chickweed is also a popular herb for dry, itchy skin while its cooling nature soothes heat and inflammation on the skin. A salve, succus, or poultice made with chickweed are commonly used topical preparations among herbalists for burns, rashes, contact dermatitis, and wounds (Wood, 2008). For those suffering from chronic skin irritations, such as eczema and psoriasis, chickweed can also be helpful taken internally as a food or tea. It is also effective in bringing a pimple to a head or extracting a splinter.
Sharol Tilgner, N.D. (2009) mentions chickweed’s use topically and internally to help reduce the size and irritation of hemorrhoids. A suppository made of chickweed-infused oil and cocoa butter has been effective for many people, especially when combined with yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts.
66
What are the safety considerations for chickweed?
Chickweed is generally regarded as safe.
67
What are astringents?
Astringents tighten up the skin and help to stop the formation and flow of discharge. Astringents also constrict pores, tonifying the skin.
68
Which herbs are considered good astringents for the skin?
wild geranium (Geranium maculatum) root,
goldenrod (Solidago spp.) aerial parts,
meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) aerial parts,
raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf,
rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) aerial parts,
sage (Salvia officinalis) aerial parts,
yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts.
Lady’s mantle – Alchemilla vulgaris (Rosaceae) – Aerial parts
69
What is the botanical name for lady's mantle?
Lady’s mantle – Alchemilla vulgaris (Rosaceae)
70
Which part of lady's mantle is used?
Aerial parts
71
What are the herbal actions of lady's mantle?
Alterative, astringent, emmenagogue, vulnerary, styptic
72
What are the herbal energetics of lady's mantle?
Drying
73
What are the specific uses for lady's mantle?
Lady’s mantle was a well-known wound herb throughout the Middle Ages. In fact, it was even considered equivalent to the most lauded vulnerary of the time, lesser sanicle. Because of this association, lady’s mantle would be dubbed greater sanicle, or Sanicula majoris and would become part of the official pharmacopoeia in the 16th century (Wood, 1997).
Lady’s mantle can be used both internally and externally for various skin conditions. As an alterative, it can be used internally for chronic skin conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis. Topically, lady’s mantle’s astringent nature benefits any weepy skin condition. Herbalist Matthew Wood (1997) notes that lady’s mantle is useful for wounds, ulcers, fistulas, and sores, since its drying capabilities “mop up” dampness in wounds. He cites a case where a woman had two perforated eardrums as a result of head trauma. This was believed a permanent affliction, but after taking a tincture of lady’s mantle internally and applying it topically, her eardrums resealed themselves.
Lady’s mantle is commonly associated with its use as a uterine tonic in cases of endometriosis, fibroids, and incompetence of the cervix. Its uterine astringent properties have long been used for its tissue-toning capability (Robertsdottir, 2016).
74
What are the safety considerations for ladies mantle?
GRAS
75
What are emollients?
Emollients soften and soothe irritated or inflamed skin, moisturize, and help to replenish the skin’s natural oils. Emollient herbs are usually rich in mucilage and can be particularly helpful for psoriasis, eczema, and aging skin. Emollient herbs are best used as poultices, compresses, or infusion-based creams.
76
When emollients are used internally, what are they called?
demulcents
77
Which herbs are considered to be good emollients for the skin?
marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) root,
comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root and leaf,
chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts.
78
What is the botanical name for comfrey?
Comfrey – Symphytum officinale (Boraginaceae)
79
Which part of comfrey is used?
Leaf, root
80
What are the herbal actions of comfrey?
Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, astringent, demulcent, emollient, expectorant, mucogenic, vulnerary
81
What are the herbal energetics of comfrey?
Cooling and moistening, with a secondary drying effect
82
What are specific uses for comfrey?
Comfrey offers exceptional support for wound and skin repair when used topically. This is due in part to the constituent allantoin, which stimulates cell proliferation and helps repair connective tissue and collagen, often leaving tissue injuries scarless (Holmes, 1989b). The tannins in comfrey, on the other hand, cause astriction in the skin, which helps close minor epithelial wounds (Holmes, 1989b). When used topically, the anti-inflammatory and emollient/demulcent action of comfrey can help soothe pain, redness, swelling, bruising, and other signs of inflammation of the skin and musculoskeletal system (Holmes, 1989b).
When applied topically, comfrey leaf has been shown to lessen wound healing time and encourage proper scar formation (Hoffmann, 2003). In one randomized, double-blind clinical study, a topical application of comfrey was found to reduce wound size significantly faster than the control group after only 2 to 3 days of use (Barna et al., 2007).
Both comfrey leaf and root can be used topically as a compress, poultice, oil, or salve (Hoffmann, 2003). However, if a wound is deep, comfrey may cause tissue to form over the wound before the wound is fully healed and may trap pathogens or other irritants within the wound. For this reason, extra care and consideration should be applied before using comfrey on wounds. The wound should be shallow and clean before comfrey is considered.
While both the leaf and root of comfrey carry emollient, astringent, and vulnerary properties, the root tends to carry higher amounts of mucilage, making it perhaps even more emollient than the leaf and more indicated for dry conditions.
83
What are the safety considerations for comfrey?
Due to the pyrrolizidine alkaloid (PA) content in comfrey, it is suggested for topical use only (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013). PAs in comfrey are considered a potentially genotoxic carcinogen in humans, although the actual risk of genetic damage is low. To minimize potential risk, extended or long-term internal use of comfrey is not advised. Absorption of PAs is significantly less when comfrey is applied externally (Hoffmann, 2003).
Topical applications: daily applied dosage should not exceed 100 mcg of PAs using either the root or leaf (Hoffmann, 2003).
84
Which constituent in comfrey is throught responsible for its rapid would healing effects?
allantoin
85
What are Vulneraries?
Herbs that aid in the wound healing process in a general way are called vulneraries. Vulnerary herbs can be used for wounds, sores, or scars.
86
Which herbs are considered to be good vulneraries?
Calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower,
comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root and leaf,
chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts,
lavender (Lavandula spp.) bud, tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts,
aloe (Aloe vera) leaf,
yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts
Plantain – Plantago spp. (Plantaginaceae) – Leaf
St. John’s wort – Hypericum perforatum (Hypericaceae) – Aerial parts
87
What is the botanical name for plantain?
Plantain – Plantago spp. (Plantaginaceae)
88
Which part of plantain is used?
Leaf
89
What are the herbal actions of plantain?
Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, astringent, demulcent, vulnerary
90
What are the herbal energetics of plantain?
Cooling
91
What are the specific uses of plantain?
First aid for cuts, scrapes, stings, bites, burns, itching:
Plantain is a must-have for any herbal first aid kit for its
use in bites, stings, cuts, and scrapes, as well as to help to draw out slivers, splinters, and stingers. As one herbalist notes, “[Plantain’s] medicine is like a lance that penetrates and opens the wound to draw out the poison” (Scott, 2010, p. 248). Plantain may also be used to soothe and cool the pain, itching, or burning symptoms of poison ivy, nettle stings, and sunburn. In-the-field preparation of a “spit poultice” for direct topical application for any of the above indications is an easy option, when available.
As a drawing ointment:
Herbalist Matthew Wood (2008) even cites its historical use in snakebite and other severe wounds in which strong drawing action was necessary.
Tired and aching feet:
Plantain leaves can also be placed in a sock for hotspots, blisters, or even plantar fasciitis or made into a wash, compress, infused oil, salve, or cream for a variety of skin conditions.
To tone relaxed tissue state:
Plantain’s anti-inflammatory and astringent properties are applicable to soothe chronic skin conditions while toning skin tissues in the case of eczema, rosacea, shingles, varicose veins, and hemorrhoids (Bruton-Seal, 2009).
For inflamed and allergic skin conditions:
Current clinical evidence backs up plantain’s traditional use as a skin wash for itchy rashes. Its ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, and α-linolenic acid content shows inhibitory effects on COX-2 catalyzed prostaglandin, which downregulates inflammation and its symptoms (Ringbom et al., 1998). Luteolin, one flavonoid present in plantain, also suppresses leukocyte migration and inhibits mast cell activity and histamine production, giving it powerfully effective anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects (Finn & Walsh, 2013).
As a disinfectant for wounds.
Plantain also exhibits antibacterial properties that contribute both to its use for wounds and for acne. Its antibacterial properties, however, are destroyed by heat (American Botanical Council, 2000b).
To sooth and tonify mucosal tissue of the gut(IBS,ulcerative colitis):
Plantain leaf is cooling, nourishing, astringent, and vulnerary for gastrointestinal mucous membranes, helping to soothe inflammation and tonify mucosal tissue. Plantain leaf is not the only part of the plant that is useful for the GI tract, however. The seed and husk (the papery covering of the seed) of Plantago ovata and other Plantago species are more commonly known as psyllium and are commonly used as a supplemental dietary fiber, facilitating healthy peristalsis and bowel movements. This may be the most common use of plantain, although many people don’t realize it comes from the same genus of plants! In a clinical trial, researchers compared psyllium seeds to a pharmaceutical drug (mesalamine) commonly used for ulcerative colitis and found that Plantago ovata seeds may be as effective as mesalamine in maintaining remission of ulcerative colitis (Fernández-Bañares et al., 1999). In a large clinical trial, Bijkerk et al. (2009) demonstrated that psyllium seeds (10 g/day for 3 months) significantly reduced the severity of irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) symptoms.
Nutrition:
Additional constituents in plantain include flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, phenolic acid derivatives, iridoid glycosides, fatty acids, and polysaccharides (Adom et al., 2017). A nutritious wild edible, plantain leaf is high in calcium and vitamins A, C, and K (like other leafy greens!). Young leaves can be included raw in salads, and mature leaves can be deveined and cooked in stews and soups (North Carolina State Extension, n.d.; Nyerges, 2016).
92
What are the safety considerations of plantain?
Contraindications: Plantain seed should be avoided by individuals with bowel obstruction,
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: Plantain seed should be taken with at least 240 mL (8 fl oz) of liquid. Plantain seed should be taken at least 2 hours apart from other drugs (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
Concerns: None
93
What is the botanical name for St. John's wort?
St. John’s wort – Hypericum perforatum (Hypericaceae)
94
Which part of St. John's wort is used?
Aerial parts
95
What are the herbal actions of St. John's wort?
Analgesic, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, anxiolytic, astringent, emmenagogue, nervous trophorestorative, nervine relaxant, vulnerary
96
What are the herbal energetics of St. John's wort?
Cooling to warming and drying
97
What are the specific uses for St. John's wort?
While modern clinical evidence has lead to the widespread use of St. John’s wort as an antidepressant herb, it was traditionally employed as a powerful healer for wounds, bruises, burns, sprains, and muscle pain. Used as an infused oil, salve, or poultice, it helps ease pain, swelling, and inflammation associated with many injuries that affect the skin and muscles and its antiseptic properties help allay infection in wounds and burns (Chevallier, 1996; Rose, 2014). St. John’s wort also helps soothe the pain associated with damaged nerves and neuralgia and is helpful for painful sciatica, shingles, and rheumatism. It can even help restore nerve sensation in nerves damaged by traumatic injury or other causes (Bennett, 2014). In fact, St. John’s wort is commonly known as “arnica for the nerves” due to its strong ability to repair nerves.
Germany’s Commission E approved external preparations of St. John’s wort for use in “acute and contused injuries, myalgia and first-degree burns” (American Botanical Council, 1999, para. 5). One clinical study of St. John’s wort as treatment for wound healing and scarring associated with Caesarean surgeries found that women treated with St. John’s wort ointment experienced “significant differences in wound healing on the 10th day…and scar formation on the 40th day postpartum” as compared to women in the placebo and control groups, as well as significantly lower pain and itching (Samadi et al., 2010, p. 113).
Hypericin and pseudohypericin, two of the active constituents in St. John’s wort, are antiviral, making it an effective adjunct during viral infections such as herpes (cold) sores, influenza, HIV, and AIDS (McIntyre, 1996; Tierra, 2003; Tillotson, 2001).
98
What are the safety considerations for St. John's wort?
St. John’s wort should not be used in pregnancy due to its emmenagogue properties. It is also not recommended during lactation or prior to surgery (it may interact with some anesthetic drugs) (Brinker, 2010). St. John’s wort may increase skin photosensitivity. Extended use should be avoided—there is a link between St. John’s wort use and cataract development (Holmes, 1989a). It also interacts with a number of drugs, particularly blood thinners and antidepressants, by inducing CYP450 drug-metabolizing enzymes and P-glycoprotein, a drug-transporter protein, and should generally be avoided while taking any pharmaceutical drug (Brinker, 2010; Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
99
According to cosmetic labeling laws, how much of a substance needs to be natural in order for the natural to be used on the label.
“natural” and “organic” labels can be meaningless when it comes to safety. The word “natural” can be used on a label if only 10% of a substance is natural (Hoffmann, 2003)
100
What are the main causes of skind damage and wrinkling?
Skin damage and wrinkling are caused by oxidative stress and free-radical damage from sun exposure, inflammation, and ischemia (lack of adequate blood flow).
101
What are good vegan substitutes for beeswax when making salves and balms?
carnauba wax, a vegetable wax made from the Brazilian palm tree (Copernicia cerifera), and candelilla wax, a vegetable wax made from the Mexican candelilla shrub (Euphorbia cerifera),
102
What are commonly used preservatives for skincare products
Leucidal - antimicrobial
Natapres - antimicrobial
vitamin E - antioxidant
Rosemarin -antioxidant
103
What is Galen's cold cream?
cold cream (an emulsification of rosewater, almond or olive oil, and beeswax) intended for cooling, soothing and healing the skin. It was innitially formulated for Gladiators, It was the first commercially produced cream and was the precursor for modern creams today.
104
What is the botanical name for Henna?
Henna – Lawsonia inermis (Lythraceae)
105
Which part of Henna is used?
Leaf
106
What are the specific actions of Henna?
Antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, antipyretic, astringent, vulnerary
107
What are the herbal energetics of Henna?
Cooling and drying
108
What are the clinnical patterns and uses of Henna?
As a dye for skin, hair and cloth:
Henna leaf is combined with water to make a distinctive, lasting dye that ranges in color from bright red-orange to deep brown; the final shade of the dye when applied to skin, hair or cloth can vary depending on the dye preparation, site of application, and the amount of the molecule, lawsone, that’s present in the leaf (Cartwright-Jones, n.d.). Although leaf powder is most typically seen in commerce in North America, the seed, bark, and root of Lawsonia inermis are also used in African and Indian traditional medicine (Yadav, 2013).
To cool the skin
Henna leaf is traditionally used both internally and externally to cool inflammation,
For imbalances that affect the blood:
to address imbalances and diseases including measles, polio, and malaria, and for illness affecting the blood (Zumratdal & Ozaslan, 2012).
To heal the skin:
Many pharmacologic and animal studies have explored various uses of henna, particularly its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. In one trial, adding henna to a pharmaceutical gel preparation used to dress burn wounds led to enhanced skin healing through increased fibroblast attachment and proliferation, collagen secretion, and antibacterial action (Hadisi et al., 2018). In another study, henna paste showed significant antifungal activity against six different pathogenic fungi, including ringworm (Gozubuyuk et al., 2014).
Hand foot syndrome(chemotherapy):
While there’s an abundance of ethnobotanical information about the many uses of henna, no clinical trials have been published, although one fascinating case report suggests that topical application of henna was helpful in alleviating hand-foot syndrome, a painful side effect of chemotherapy (Yucel & Guzin, 2008).
Fungal infections:
Henna is most commonly used in Western herbalism as a topical antifungal. Herbalist jim mcdonald reports that he has used it successfully to address fungal infections including ringworm, athlete’s foot, and onychomycosis (toenail fungus). According to mcdonald, “The thing that makes henna so useful in such cases is that the same constituent that is responsible for the dark red dye (lawsone) also possesses antifungal & antimicrobial properties…This means that during the time that the stain is visible, there is a 24/7 action of the lawsone on the skin infection” (mcdonald, n.d., para. 4).
109
What are the safety considerations for henna?
Contraindicaitons: Use of henna is contraindicated for individuals with glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency (also known as favism), an inherited disorder (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dose: Although topical use of pure henna is generally quite safe, it’s very important to watch out for the use of “black henna”—which are products that contain other ingredients and are often adulterated with paraphenylenediamine (PPD), a chemical that makes it appear darker and take effect more quickly. PPD can cause severe contact dermatitis, and in sensitive individuals can trigger a life-threatening allergic reaction (Treister-Goltzman et al., 2016).
Recommended for topical use only.
110
Skin Energetics: HOT
appearance: Redness/ Red blotches, Flushing,
Sensitivity
Feels: itchy, irritated, hot or burning
prone to: Welts, hives, rashes, or bumps
Easily: sunburns, overheat
111
Skin Energetics: Cold
Appearance: Pale face and nail beds, Dark and blue lips
and circles under eyes
Feels: Cold, rough skin,
Prone to: Cold extremities, poor circulation, slow healing
wounds
Easily: Bruises, gets cold
112
Skin Energetics: Dry
Appearance: Dry and Flaky, lack luster
Feels: tight, ithcy
Prone to: brittle nails, dandruf, lines, wrinkles, saggy
skin
Easily: Hair Frizzes
113
Skin Energetics: Damp
Appearance: Shiny by midday, vissible pores, hair is
thick and shiny
Feels: clammy, oily
Prone: acne/blackheads, fungal infections, weepy skin
conditions, liquid filled blisters, bumps and
lesions
Easily: Sweats
114
How is the health of the liver and digestive system reflected in the skin?
If the liver and digestive system are not doing that job efficiently, we can build up pro-inflammatory compounds that contribute to a host of skin problems, ranging from acne and very dry skin to eczema and psoriasis.
115
What are the 6 signs that you may need some extra liver support?
seasonal food and environmental allergies
PMS, difficult periods and other menstral irregularities
difficulties digesting fats and slow digestion
regular use of tobacco, alcohol, drugs, medication
prone to irritabillity, stress, frustration
very sensitive to synthetic fragrances/chemicals
116
What are the 6 signs that you may need extra digestive support?
commonly experiencing heartburn, indigestion and stomach upset
bowel movements less than once a day or more than 4 times a day
undigested food in stool
trouble digesting certain kinds of foods
food sensitivities and intollerances
rarely feels hungry
117
What are the three main layers of the skin?
Epidermis
Dermis
Hypodermis
118
What are the layers of the epidermis?
```
stratum corneum,
stratum lucidum (this is the additional layer that’s found only on the palms and soles),
stratum granulosum,
stratum spinosum,
stratum basale.
```
119
How thick is the epidermis?
0.1 mm
120
What is inbetween the stratum basal and the dermis?
basement membrane
121
Is the dermis vascular or avascular?
avascular
122
Which cells make up the majority of the epidermis with the exception of the basal layer?
keratinocytes
123
What cells comprises the basal layer of the epidermis and what is their function?
basal cells that produce keratinocytes
124
What are desmosomes?
As keratinocytes move into the upper layers of the epidermis, they become anchored to each other through interlocking extracellular structures called desmosomes. Normally, as the cells of the stratum corneum age, these desmosomes break apart and we shed our skin as small particles (dust); however, desmosomes may remain intact in damaged skin, which is why sunburned or blistered skin can peel off in sheets (Biga et al., 2018).
125
Explain the process of terminal differientiation of keratinocytes in the epidermis?
as the basal cells divide, producing new keratinocytes, older cells are pushed up toward the surface of the skin. Only the deepest cells receive oxygen and nutrients from the blood vessels in the dermis, so as they move upward, cells begin to die off and harden. By the time they reach the outermost layer (the stratum corneum), the cells are dead, dried out, and eventually just slough off. It takes about a month to shed and replace all of the cells of the stratum corneum (Biga et al., 2018).
126
Explain the cornification of keratinocytes
As a keratinocyte moves into the stratum corneum, its lipid (fatty) cellular membrane develops into a resistant cell wall that’s much less susceptible to water loss in a process called cornification. As these cells cornify, the lipids in the cell membrane are squeezed out into the intercellular space and the cells flatten, harden, and die. These specialized, hardened keratinocytes are called corneocytes. Together, corneocytes and the intercellular lipids form a “brick and mortar” structure, with the corneocytes acting as bricks and the lipids acting as mortar to hold them together (Wickett & Visscher, 2006).
127
What are ceramides?
Ceramides are a particular type of lipid molecule that, along with cholesterol and free fatty acids, make up the bulk of the lipid portion of the stratum corneum. Synthesized ceramides, which are designed to act in the same way as the ceramides that are naturally produced within the keratinocytes of the epidermis, are now included as ingredients in some skin lotions and topical treatments. Natural ceramides are derived from the fatty acids that we consume in our diet, so the types of fat we eat can have a big impact on the composition of ceramides, the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, and ultimately on the effective barrier function of the skin.
128
What is NMF found the the stratum corneum?
In addition to the lipid matrix found between the corneocytes, a compound called natural moisturizing factor (NMF), produced within the cells of the stratum corneum, is a key component in healthy barrier function. NMF is produced within the corneocytes and helps keep the skin moisturized by attracting water from the surrounding environment and from the lower layers of the skin (Weber et al., 2012). NMF and the lipid components of the stratum corneum help keep the skin supple and hydrated and are important factors in maintaining barrier integrity and preventing water loss through the skin.
129
What does the lippid matrix, in the stratum corneum, consist out of?
Lippids, ceramides, NMF
130
Which cells are found in the stratum basale?
Basal cells - produces keratinocytes
Merkel cells -sensory receptor
Melanocytes -produces melanin (skin pigments)
131
Which cells are found in the stratum granulosum?
keratinocytes -produces and stores keratine,
synthesizes vitamin d
Melanocytes -produces melanin (skin pigments)
132
Which cells are found in the stratum spinosum?
Langerhans cells - immune function/acts as macrophage
keratinocytes -produces and stores keratine,
synthesizes vitamin d
133
Which cells are found in the stratum lucidum?
keratinocytes -produces and stores keratine,
| synthesizes vitamin d
134
Which cells are found in the stratum corneum?
cxorneocytes -creates a barrier of protection
135
How much thicker is the dermis compared to the epidermis?
40 times thicker
136
What is the connective tissue of the dermis composed of?
Much of the dermis is composed of a matrix of collagen and elastin fibers, which are the structural proteins that give skin its mobility, elasticity, and tensile strength. Collagen also binds water, helping to keep skin hydrated.
137
What is the papillary layer of the epidermis?
In the outer layer of the dermis, called the papillary layer, collagen and elastin are organized in a loose mesh, and a network of capillaries (tiny blood vessels just one cell wide) provide oxygen and nutrients to the cells in the deepest level of the epidermis.
138
What is the reticular layer of the epidermis?
In the deepest layer of the dermis, called the reticular layer, collagen and elastin fibers are much more densely packed together, and larger blood vessels are more numerous. The primary cells found in the dermis are fibroblasts, which secrete collagen and elastin, and immune response cells, including mast cells and macrophage cells. (Mast cells are involved in the inflammatory response to allergens, but they have many other immune functions as well; macrophages are white blood cells that ingest and destroy dead cells, cellular debris, and foreign particles, such as bacteria.)
139
Which structures are contained within the epidermis?
hair follicles - holds and nourishes the root of hair
sebaceous glands -produces sebum, which lubricates
the hair and skin
sweat glands,
blood vessels,
lymphatic vessels,
nerves.
the hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and sweat glands—are situated deep in the dermis, but extend through the epidermis and open to the surface of the skin.
140
What is the main function of the hypodermis?
The main function of the hypodermis is fat storage and structural integrity, connecting the skin to the fascia that surrounds the muscles.
141
What is the hypodermis mainly comprised of?
This layer contains mostly adipocytes, or fat storage cells, and collagen fibers
142
In order for constituents applied topically to the skin to enter systemic circulation, which structure do they need to penetrate?
Consituents needs to make it accross the epidermis and to the cappillary bed of the dermis
143
What are the 3 main ways that herbal constituents (and other things) can get across the epidermal barrier?
Intracellular - they can cross directly into the cells
(intracellular transport),
Intercelluar - they can cross in between cells
(intercellular transport),
transappendageal - they can sneakily bypass the
epidermis all together, entering
through the openings of hair follicles
or sweat glands that route directly
into the dermis (transappendageal
transport or shunt route).
144
Why is it easier for fat soluble substances, like oil, to penetrate the skin as opposed to water soluble substance?
The hardened outer membranes of the corneocytes are highly water resistant (hydrophobic) and are interspersed with water-resistant lipids. That means the epidermis as a whole is lipophilic, or fat-loving, and fat-soluble substances will have a much higher rate of absorption than those that are water soluble.
145
What are 3 things we can do to make it easier for water based preparations to pass through the skin?
Increasing contact area and duration of exposure: are simple starting points—more skin contact for a longer period of time means there’s more opportunity for substances to move into the skin.
Occlusion: or covering the area of skin that’s exposed to the substance, can increase absorption by preventing evaporation and increasing temperature.
Location: Application sites that have a high concentration of hair follicles and sebaceous or sweat glands (like the scalp and face) will increase the opportunity for absorption through the shunt or bypass route, while sites with thinner epidermal layers (like the wrist and neck) provide less of a barrier for intercellular absorption.
146
Describe the two categories of skin aging
“intrinsic aging”—things that will happen regardless of external influences
“extrinsic aging”—things that happen as a direct result of diet, environmental exposure, or other outside factors.
147
Explain the intrinsic ageing of the skin?
As we age, the activity of our fibroblast cells naturally declines; this means we produce less collagen, the tissue of the dermis begins to thin, and we see fine lines and wrinkles appear. Subcutaneous fat in the face generally decreases, the fat pad that makes youthful cheeks plump may drift forward and down, and we may even lose bone mass in the face—all of this means that our face shape can change as we age; this loss of tissue can contribute to the development of wrinkles as well. The epidermis also begins to atrophy and there’s a decrease in the contact area between the epidermis and the dermis. You’ll remember that the epidermis is utterly reliant on the blood vessels of the dermis below for all of its nutrients and oxygen; as this contact area decreases, so does the food and oxygen supply for the cells of the epidermis. That means cells are regenerated more slowly and the skin becomes more fragile, more easily injured, and takes longer to heal when wounds do occur (Nigam & Knight, 2008).
The slowdown in production of epidermal cells also means that skin becomes more rough and dry (Nigam & Knight, 2008); the development of extremely dry skin creates a feedback cycle in which the dryness is both exacerbated by and contributes to a breakdown in barrier function (Wickett & Visscher, 2006). In turn, the failure of barrier integrity creates a predisposition for contact dermatitis and microbial infection.
We also see a decrease in the number of melanocytes and Langerhans cells distributed throughout the epidermis. Remember that melanocytes produce the melanin that both colors our skin and protects from UV damage, so a decrease in melanocytes can lead to skin that is more pale and more sensitive to sunburns and other UV damage. At the same time, vitamin D production in the keratinocytes is inhibited, so while we may be less able to tolerate UV exposure, we’re likely to need more time in the sun to produce adequate vitamin D
148
What are the main culprits that contribute to extrinsic skin ageing?
UV light exposure, tobacco use and other major sources of oxidative damage, and essential fatty acid deficiency and other nutritional imbalances.
149
What is the acid mantle of the skin?
The acid mantle—a naturally secreted protective film—is what provides the skin with its mildly acidic pH. This is one important way the skin keeps harmful microorganisms in check before they spread and cause infection.
150
What is the role of antimicrobial peptide (AMP) dermicidin?
Sweat, which contains the antimicrobial peptide (AMP) precursor protein dermcidin. When secreted from sweat glands, it acidifies the skin and can impede the development of certain bacterial species (Gallo & Nakatsuji, 2011; Grice & Segre, 2011).
151
What is the role of melanin in the skin?
Melanin has been shown to protect against photodamage to DNA caused by ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, a side-effect of sunlight exposure—this is especially significant because DNA damage from ultraviolet (UV) radiation can be a precursor to a variety of skin cancers (Brenner & Hearing, 2008).
152
How does the skin act as a protective barrier?
Acts like a semi permeable membrane keeping pathogens out and absorbing nutrients, and prevents dehydration by preventing water from evaporating.
Secretes antimicrobial peptides
Creates an acid mantle that regulates PH keeping harmful microbes in check
produces melanin protecting dna from uv damage
Contains immune cells that stops invading pathogens.
153
What are the 4 overlapping phases of wound healing?
1. hemostasis phase: day 1 - 3. Stops bleeding
2. inflamation phase: day 1 - 10. New framework for blood
vessels growth
3. proliferation phase: day 3 to 21. closes the wound
consists out of 3 sub phases:
proliferation, epiphilialisation, and
contraction
4. Maturation/Remodeling phase: day 7 to 2 years.
154
Wound Healing: Hemostasis
The skins respons to the threat of blood loss and a compromised barrier.
contraction of capillaries and blood vessels
platelets from damaged blood vessels flow into the wound where they aggregate and form a plug to close the wound.
155
Wound Healing: Inflamation
dialation of capillaries and blood vessels
white blood cells migrate into the wound area
white blood cells differentiate into different cells: Nutrafills, Macrophages
engulfs dead tissue and bacteria
156
Wound Healing: Proliferation stage
Proliferation:
Wound is filled with granulation tissue consisting of newly formed cappillaries and connective tissue
The formation of new cappilliries(angiogenises) supplies nutrients for granulation tissue formation, which is essential for would healing
Fibroblasts migrate to the wound site from surrounding tissue and starts to proliferate
Contractions:
The wound is made smaller through wound contraction, from myofibroblasts
Eppithelialisation:
When granulation tissue is at level with the wound, then eppithelial cells cover wound and reattach themselves to the basement membrane. The wound is now closed
157
Wound Healing: Maturation/Remodeling
Granulation tissue matures into scar tissue
collegan fibers are reorganized along lines of tension and cross linked to form stronger tissue.
Remodeling can take up to 2years
158
What is tissue regeneration?
When a wound is located at the skin’s surface and is limited to the epidermis, it heals through tissue regeneration. In tissue regeneration, basal epithelial cells replicate themselves, migrating across the wound in order to close the breach. This is followed by a thickening of the epidermis, which quickly restores the integrity of the skin as well as its function. Surface wounds generally leave little scarring because of the presence of adipocytes (fat storage cells) in the newly developed skin. They allow for a more seamless merging of wound edges.
159
What is tissue repair?
Wounds to dermal tissue heal through the more complex process of tissue repair. Deep wounds can impact the skin cells as well as sweat glands, hair follicles, blood vessels, and other tissues in the dermis. Unlike in superficial wounds, deep wounds cause fibroblasts to differentiate into myofibroblasts, which among other functions secrete extracellular matrix proteins that facilitate wound closure. While tissue repair restores the skin’s integrity, the process may not restore function. For example, the rebuilding of hair follicles or nerves in the affected area does not occur in the more fibrous tissue generated through tissue repair. This is why scar tissue looks so much different than normal skin, lacking pores, hair, and often having a shiny appearance (Darby et al., 2014; Martin, 2013).
160
Explain innate immunity
Innate immunity is the nonspecific set of immune defenses with which we’re born.
First line of defence against invading pathogens
Non selective (doesn't differentiate between one pathogen and another)
includes:
- physical barriers: skin, mucus membranes
- chemical barriers: lycozyme, stomach acid, gut flora
- inflamation: Mast cells that release hestimine, initiating the inflamatory response which brings leukycites
- leukycites: phagocites, neutrophils, macrophages, natural killer cells, dendridic cells
Certain cells in the body—notably concentrated in the skin, gut tissue, and blood—are pre-programmed to express certain mechanisms that are activated quickly in response to infection. Innate immune responses, therefore, appear within seconds to hours of exposure to specific antigens (foreign substances that trigger an immune response).
161
Explain adaptive immunity
immune responses that are developed throughout our lives
Selective (differentiates between different types of patogens)
2 main components T-lymphocytes and B-lymphocytes
T-cells:
- effector T-cells: Rally's other immune cells
- memory T-cells: keeps a record of pathogens encountered for future.
- cytotoxic T-cells: kills cells that have been infected by pathogens
B-Cells:
-produce antigens that attaches themselves to pathogen and then signals macrophages to kill pathogen
162
What is the primary factor that affects thermoregulation?
changes in skin temperature
163
How does the skin help regulate body temperature?
When the body’s temperature is higher than normal, thermoreceptors in the skin sense and communicate the change to the hypothalamus, and the autonomic nervous system (ANS) initiates body-cooling mechanisms; blood vessels dilate, bringing more heat from the body’s core, which maintains a temperature of about 100 degrees F (37.8 degrees C), to the skin’s surface. Interestingly, the majority of the skin’s blood flow serves to maintain a stable body temperature; the amount of blood passing through skin tissues is between 20 and 30 times the amount necessary to nourish cells (Sherwood, 2012)!
Sweating is another way the skin regulates temperature. Sweating is an evaporative heat loss mechanism controlled by the sympathetic branch of the autonomic nervous system. When sweat is released from the glands, the temperature of the skin causes evaporation and the release of excess heat, thus cooling the body. Ambient humidity affects how effectively sweat cools the body, because water vapor saturation limits how much moisture can be taken up by the air. (This is why hot weather feels so much more extreme when it’s humid!)
When the body’s temperature is too low, the opposite actions occur in the circulatory system. Upon initial exposure to cold, thermoreceptors in the skin detect the drop in temperature and trigger an uptake in norepinephrine, causing the constriction of blood vessels in the skin and even in skeletal muscle. This provides an insulating effect, retaining heat at the body’s core. It’s also the same process that triggers goosebumps, which are caused by the contraction of the arrector pili, small muscles attached to hair follicles in the skin. (In animals with dense fur, this contraction causes the hairs to stand on end, creating a thicker insulating layer—but in most humans this doesn’t do much to keep us warm!)
164
What happens when cold stress on the skin is not resolved after innitial vasoconstriction?
If the cold stress is not soon resolved, sympathetic nerves cause vasodilation to increase blood circulation to the surface, protecting the skin against damage such as frostbite. Cutaneous blood vessels then cycle between vasoconstriction and vasodilation, balancing the need to retain heat and supply blood to the skin. When cold stress is severe or prolonged, the body also generates heat through shivering, a reflex action of the skeletal muscles.
165
How does the skin act as a sensory organ?
the skin relays sensory information to the sensory centers in the brain via tactile corpuscles(Meisnerr's corpuscles) and free nerve endings.
166
How is vitamin D synthesized in the body?
Precursors to vitamin D—technically, a prohormone and not a vitamin—are synthesized and stored in the skin. When the skin is exposed to sunlight, UV rays penetrate the skin and through a process called photolyzation, produce cholecalciferol. Cholecalciferol is converted in the liver to calcidiol before finally being converted by the kidneys into calcitriol, the active form of vitamin D. Most of our vitamin D intake comes from this process,
167
What is the function of vitamin D in the body?
Like hormones, vitamin D binds to receptors; these are present in nearly every cell in the body. Because of this, vitamin D has far-reaching effects on body functions and processes, from absorption of calcium in the bones to healthy nervous system, immune system, cardiovascular system, thyroid, and adrenal function. For this reason, vitamin D deficiency can affect a wide range of body systems and is implicated in a host of imbalances (Mostafa & Hegazy, 2015).
The skin is both a production site and a target tissue for vitamin D. Some of the many functions of vitamin D include activity in cell proliferation, differentiation, and cell death (apoptosis), hair follicle cycling, wound healing and photoprotection, and antimicrobial activity on the skin’s surface. Because of the many interconnected ways that vitamin D interacts with the skin, deficiency is also implicated in a long list of dermatological imbalances, including skin cancer, psoriasis, ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis, hair loss, acne, and autoimmune skin conditions such as systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE) (Mostafa & Hegazy, 2015). Although it is unclear whether vitamin D deficiency is causative or a consequential effect of inflammation, it is clearly linked to poor health (Autier et al., 2014).
168
Which factors contribute to vitamin D deficiency?
A number of factors can influence vitamin D levels; nutrient deficiency, skin color and type, the use of sunblock, environment/location, time of year, clothing choices, and behavior (such as avoiding the outdoors on sunny days or using a sun umbrella) all have an impact.
169
What is transepidermal water loss
Sweating is not the only way that water passes through the semipermeable epidermal barrier. Water is also lost through a diffusive and evaporative process called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Healthy skin loses between 100 and 150 milliliters (mL) of fluid per day through this process, driven by the diffusion of moisture from the body into the much drier external environment; skin (and in particular, the stratum corneum) adapts dynamically to moisture changes in the environment by increasing or decreasing its permeability as needed (Sparr et al., 2013).
Environmental inputs such as temperature, air circulation, humidity, light sources, and radiation can affect the process and increase water loss in a manner that can affect the skin’s physical properties and appearance, as well as its enzymatic and chemical mechanisms. High rates of TEWL, for example, can slow cell regeneration and wound healing and influence pH levels; conversely, as skin heals, rates of TEWL are lowered (Gorcea et al., 2013). Intrinsic factors such as the location and type of skin, skin color, and ethnicity also affect the rate of water loss from the skin (Rogiers et al., 2005; Singh et al., 2000).
Permeability and water loss are also affected by lipids (fats or oils) produced in the skin. There are many types of lipids that make up the skin’s lipid layer, including free fatty acids, cholesterol, phospholipids, glycolipids, and ceramides. Many of these lipids form a complex mixture called sebum, a protective layer that helps to waterproof the skin and acts as a barrier against pathogens and debris. (Note that not all of the oils on the skin’s surface are sebum—some lipids on the skin are secreted from skin cells, and others come from sweat and environmental matter.)
170
What are some functions of sebum.
Many functions are attributed to sebum, including photoprotection, antimicrobial activity, and immune activity.
171
How is sebum produced
Sebocytes are biologically active epithelial cells, expressing receptors for peptides, neurotransmitters, and steroid and thyroid hormones, but much remains unknown about how exactly sebum is produced, its metabolic pathways, and even its ultimate role in human health (Michniak & Wertz, 2005; Picardo et al., 2009; Zouboulis, 2009). However, recent findings have indicated that adiponectin, a protein hormone that is involved with breaking down fats and maintaining glucose levels, seems to play an important role in sebocyte function (Jung et al., 2017).
172
What are the 3 waste products or toxins that are eliminated by the body?
metabolic waste (compounds produced through normal cellular processes, such as respiration and protein breakdown),
endogenous compounds (substances produced within the body, such as hormones and cholesterol),
xenobiotics (chemical substances that enter the body from the outside—for example, pharmaceuticals, food and cosmetic additives, and environmental pollutants).
173
What are the 3 main functions of sweat
Sweating primarily serves to cool the body
Provide chemical protection by helping to maintain the skin’s acid mantle,
functions as a route of elimination for some waste products.
174
What is sweat composed of?
Water, minerals, metabolic waste(lactic acid, urea), xenobiotics (heavy metals, toxins, pollutants, metabolites from the breakdown of pharmaceuticals.
What’s more, the skin has a direct role in the detoxification of these xenobiotics, which can be broken down by enzymatic activity within the cells of the skin (Svensson, 2009).
175
What are the 5 organs of elimination and what happens when the function of one or more of them are impaired?
The lungs, kidneys, liver, intestines, and skin work in an interconnected fashion to break down and excrete this cocktail of compounds; if one or more of the eliminatory organs are functioning poorly, the other systems may have an increased burden of elimination to compensate. This is a widely held theory among holistic practitioners, but may not be as accepted in a biomedical model, although there are some specific areas where cause and effect can clearly be observed. For example, the concentration of urea (a metabolic byproduct of protein digestion, normally excreted mostly through kidneys in urine) found in sweat increases when kidney function is impaired (Al-Tamer & Hadi, 1997; Huang et al., 2002), as the body attempts to compensate for decreased renal elimination by getting rid of urea through the skin.
176
Which other organs of elimination can contribute to inflamatory skin conditions?
liver and digestive system
177
What are the main class of herbs used to support organs of elimination?
alteratives.
178
How can we select an alterative for a specific organ of elimination?
This is a fairly broad category of action, but we can narrow in on the use of individual herbs according to their specific affinity or niche action. According to herbalist David Hoffmann, the “leafy” alteratives (alterative herbs from which the aboveground parts are used) tend to have more activity on the lymphatic system and kidneys, while the “rooty” alteratives (alterative herbs from which the roots or bark are used) generally support the function of the liver and colon (Hoffmann, 2003). Since strengthening the other excretory organs will help reduce the eliminatory burden on the skin, all alterative herbs can potentially have an indirect supportive effect in addressing skin conditions. However, some alteratives have a particular affinity for the skin; these include chickweed (Stellaria media) aboveground parts, burdock (Arctium lappa) root, red clover (Trifolium pratense) aerial parts, cleavers (Galium aparine) aboveground parts, and violet (Viola spp.) aerial parts.
179
What is the botanical name for Cleavers?
Cleavers – Galium aparine (Rubiaceae)
180
Which parts of Cleavers are used?
Aboveground parts
181
What are the specific actions of cleavers?
Alterative, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antitumor, astringent, bitter, diuretic, hepatic, laxative
182
What are the herbal energetics of cleavers?
Cooling and drying
183
What are the clinical patters and uses for Cleavers?
Cleavers has been used as a “blood purifier” since the era of ancient Greek medicine, when it was employed to “destroy and expel eruptive poisons in the blood” (Tobyn et al., 2016, p. 175), particularly when taken daily for several weeks (typically in the spring when a fresh juice could be prepared). Cleavers is still used by modern herbalists as a spring tonic to help revitalize immune function, digestion, and elimination (Masé, 2010). Though we may describe it somewhat differently, the basic principle at work is similar: use of alterative herbs, aligned with the seasonal shift from winter into spring, in order to improve metabolic function, assimilation of nutrients, and excretion of waste products.
The alterative function of cleavers can have a profound effect on skin conditions related to systemic accumulation of metabolic waste products; for this purpose, cleavers can be used both internally as a succus (juice) or other extract, and externally as a poultice or compress on affected skin. Cleavers may also be used both internally and topically to support the lymphatic system, enhancing the clearance of metabolic waste and overall immune function (Holmes, 2006); it may be particularly indicated when there is swelling of the lymph nodes in the throat, and it can also be applied topically, in an oil or salve, to any swollen nodule, cyst, or boil (Tobyn et al., 2016).
When taken internally as a succus, tea, or tincture, cleavers has a notable diuretic effect. It has an affinity for the kidneys and bladder and is often included in formulas to help normalize urine flow and overall urinary tract function, particularly where there are signs of heat, swelling, and inflammation (Tobyn et al., 2016), as in the case of cystitis or prostate inflammation. This draining, diuretic effect makes cleavers ideal for use in damp conditions with swelling and accumulation of fluid.
Although dried herb can be used, cleavers is ideally used fresh, and it can be prepared as a hot or cold infusion, succus, puree, or tincture of fresh herb (Hoffmann, 2003; Tobyn et al., 2016).
184
What are the safety considerations for Cleavers?
Contraidications: None
Allergies: None
Herb/Drug interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
185
What is the botanical name for violet?
Violet – Viola spp. (Violaceae)
186
Which parts of Violet are used?
Aerial parts
187
What are the specific actions of violet?
Alterative, aperient, anti-inflammatory, expectorant, lymphatic, nutritive
188
What are the herbal energetics of violet?
Cooling and moistening
189
What are the clinical patterns and uses for violet?
Alterative for dry constitutions:
Violet leaf and flower is one of the most moistening of the “leafy” alteratives. It’s much less diuretic than many of the other nutritive spring greens, so it’s particularly useful for those with a very dry constitution who may find tonics such as nettle (Urtica dioica) leaf and dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) leaf too drying (Groves, 2016).
Constipation:
If you have the opportunity, try slowly chewing a fresh violet leaf or flower; as it breaks down, you’ll notice a distinct mucilaginous quality, which is what gives violet its moistening properties. Although the roots of Viola species have a frank laxative effective, the aerial parts act more as a moistening, gentle aperient; this makes them useful for those with a tendency to constipation, which can often accompany a dry constitution.
Dry Non productive cough:
This mucilaginous quality combines with the saponins in violet leaf to make a useful expectorant, stimulating the expulsion of mucus while also soothing irritated tissues in the throat and respiratory tract (Hoffmann, 2003).
Congested lymph nodes and glands:
Like red clover and cleavers, violet has an affinity for the lymphatic system and can be useful when there is lymphatic congestion resulting in swollen nodes, glands, or other masses; it can be used as a topical compress, poultice, or infused oil, or can be taken internally, typically as an infusion (de la Forêt, n.d.).
inflammatory skin conditions:
Likewise, violet can be used both internally and topically to support the skin through its alterative and anti-inflammatory action and is useful for inflammatory skin conditions including eczema and psoriasis. In infants, violet can be used externally as a wash for cradle cap and other skin irritations.
Pain:
Violet contains some salicylic acid—the same compound found in willow bark, originally used as the base for aspirin—which may underlie its use as an anti-inflammatory and mild analgesic. Violet can be included as part of a long-term strategy for addressing pain and inflammation in the musculoskeletal system, such as arthritis, particularly when there are indications of heat and dryness (de la Forêt, n.d.; Hoffmann, 2003).
190
What are the safety considerations for violet?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: violet root can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea in high doses (de la Forêt, n.d.).
Concerns: None
191
What is biotransformation?
The process by which the liver breaks down substances (metabolic waste, xenobiotics, endogenous) so that they can be used by the body or so that they can be excreted
For the most part, the detoxification process consists of a series of enzymatic reactions that make the target compounds (the chemicals we need to metabolize) more water-soluble, and thus more easily excreted in urine, feces, or sweat.
The process is commonly called detoxification
192
Where does biotransformation take place?
Biotransformation primarily takes place within the liver, but to a lesser extent also occurs in other cells; skin cells contain enzymes that initiate biotransformation, and, consequently, the skin is also a significant site of metabolic detoxification (Svensson, 2009).
193
How many phases does biotransformation consist out of?
Biotransformation is generally understood to work in two phases. In the simplest terms, we can describe phase I as breaking down the substances into intermediate compounds, and phase II as rejoining, or conjugating, those intermediate compounds with other molecules.
194
In what way can biotransformation cause chronic illness?
Phase I reactions generate reactive oxygen species, which can cause oxidative damage to cells, including cumulative inflammatory damage to the skin and other parts of the body. Here’s the important point: the metabolites, or byproducts, created during phase I reactions can be even more damaging to the body than the original parent compounds—that’s why it’s so important that the body is primed to move these intermediate products swiftly into phase II reactions, which create more stable, more water-soluble compounds that are ready for excretion through urine, feces, or sweat. If that doesn’t happen, and phase I breakdown reactions outpace phase II binding reactions, we can end up with an accumulation of unstable, oxidative compounds in the body that cause damage to cells and DNA, promote inflammation, and may lay the groundwork for chronic disease (Liska et al., 2004).
195
Biotransformation: What causes an imbalance between phase 1 breakdown reactions and phase 2 binding reactions?
An imbalance between phase I and phase II reactions can arise when phase I enzymes are upregulated (their function is increased by cellular or genetic regulation) or when there’s a deficiency in the compounds that drive phase II reactions (Liska et al., 2004). Both genetic and environmental factors play a big role in the detoxification systems of the body; in particular, there are a number of genetic variations that can alter the activity of phase I enzymes, affecting the body’s ability to effectively metabolize certain substances (Hodges & Minich, 2015) and altering the balance between phase I and phase II reactions.
196
Biotransformation: Do tne enzymes that regulate phase 1 breakdown reactions come from the food we eat?
The enzymes that regulate phase I reactions are endogenous compounds that don’t come directly from the diet—but their activity can be stimulated or inhibited by food and herbs.
197
Biotransformation: Do tne donor compounds that regulate phase 2 attachment reactions come from the food we eat, or are they produced by the body?
Phase II reactions usually involve “quenching” the reactive intermediate compound by attaching a donor group; they rely on the presence of both the donor compound, such as a sulfur or methyl group, and the transferase enzymes that shuttle the donor compound to the attachment site (Hodges & Minich, 2015). These donor compounds can be produced by the body, but their building blocks need to be replenished through the diet (Hodges & Minich, 2015; Jeffery, 2006). (Imagine this as a bucket of water that’s slowly being refilled by a trickling hose; if we’re taking a lot of water out of the bucket, it will empty more quickly than it’s refilled—that’s what happens when we have a lot of detoxifying to do, but we don’t have enough of the building blocks for those phase II enzymes. Adding foods and herbs that provide donor compounds for phase II activity is like turning up the pressure on the hose: now the bucket doesn’t empty even though we’re still taking water out at the same rate.)
198
Biotransformation: Can certain foods promote the production of damaging intermediate metabolites by stimulating only phase 1 enzymes?
It’s certainly possible for some foods and herbs to stimulate only phase I enzymes, and consequently promote the production of damaging intermediate metabolites—caffeinated beverages, alcohol, and charbroiled meats are classic examples of foods or beverages that induce phase I enzymatic activity. However, it appears that while isolated compounds may show standalone stimulating or inhibiting effects on just phase I or phase II reactions, many whole foods and herbs have a modulatory effect on the detoxification process as a whole; they may have a stimulating effect only when enzymatic activity is low, or they may simply contain multiple compounds that have a number of different actions, resulting in a net balancing effect on hepatic metabolism (Hodges & Minich, 2015).
199
What are 3 great source of antioxidants for the body?
Foods containing vitamins A, C, and E are excellent sources of dietary antioxidants; dark leafy greens, including kale, collards, and spinach, contain all three of these vitamins, along with other nutrients that support hepatic metabolism.
Potent antioxidant herbs can also be included in the diet—green tea (Camellia sinensis), oregano (Origanum vulgare), turmeric (Curcuma longa), and cocoa (Theobroma cacao) are all strongly antioxidant herbs that also have a modulatory effect on hepatic detoxification systems (Hodges & Minich, 2015).
Flavonoids found in virtually all colorful plant foods have antioxidant activity and support phase I detoxification processes (Romm, 2018).
200
What are good sources of the trace minerals used as phase 1 cofactors during the biotransformation process in the liver?
Trace minerals (copper, selenium, zinc, and manganese) found in shellfish, seaweeds, and organ meats act as phase I cofactors.
201
What is the role of B vitamins during the biotransformation process and what are some good sources of B vitamins?
B vitamins (particularly B2, B3, B6, and B12) are necessary cofactors in phase I detoxification; vitamin B12 also supports methylation, a phase II reaction (Romm, 2018). Dietary sources of B vitamins include organ meats, eggs, spinach, sardines, and soybeans, tofu, and tempeh.
202
Which nutrients are needed to support phase 1 breakdown reactions during biotransformation?
antioxidants: Flavanoids, Vit A,C,E.
Co-factors: Vit B2, B3, B6, B12, copper, selenium, zinc, and manganese
203
Which nutrients are needed to support phase 2 attachment reactions during biotransformation?
methyl donors, sulphates, glutathione
Aminoacids
204
What are good sources for glutathione, sulfate, and methyl donor groups that are used during phase 2 of the biotransformation process?
Brassicas and alliums contain multiple substrate compounds (glutathione, sulfate, and methyl donor groups) and increase the activity of certain phase II transferase enzymes (Hodges & Minich, 2015; Jeffery, 2006). Brassicas includes the dark leafy greens such as kale and collards (which, as mentioned, also contain vitamins A, C, and E), as well as cabbage, cauliflower, and many other vegetables; alliums include garlic, onions, leeks, and shallots.
In addition to brassicas and alliums, other foods that boost production of glutathione, one of the key substrates in phase II reactions, include spinach, egg yolks, whey protein, red peppers, lentils, and oats (Romm, 2018).
205
What are some good sources for amino acids used during phase 2 of the biotransformation process?
High-protein foods, particularly eggs, meat, and dairy, are ideal sources of the amino acids that are necessary for methylation. (As we’ve noted in other lessons, meat and dairy should be organic and/or pastured.)
206
What are the different classes of hepatic herbs?
hepatoprotective (protecting the cells of the liver from damage), cholagogue and/or choleretic (increasing the production or flow of bile from the liver and gallbladder), or alterative. Some hepatics are also true liver tonics—that is, they help to restore normal hepatic function.
207
Which two classes of hepatic herbs are useful for skin conditions?
Because of their action to support eliminative function, hepatic alteratives are frequently indicated for skin conditions; cholagogues can also help by easing digestive stagnation and constipation that make the skin work eliminative overtime. And in practice, most hepatic herbs will offer more than one of these actions.
208
How can we use hepatic herbs for skin conditions?
Many skin conditions will present with classic heat symptoms, such as redness, irritation, or itchiness—we may even be able to feel heat in the affected skin, or the skin may feel like it’s burning. These hot conditions are often improved by the application of cooling topical herbs, which we’ll discuss later in the course, as well as the internal use of cooling herbs, including cooling hepatics such as Oregon grape (Berberis aquifolium) root, dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) root, yellow dock (Rumex crispus) root, and yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts. These herbs are mildly stimulating to the liver and are consequently sometimes even described as liver-warming herbs (because they stimulate liver function, and stimulation is usually warming)—but nonetheless they generally have a beneficial cooling effect on hot skin conditions and are energetically cooling.
It may be appropriate to use more warming hepatics, such as turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome or schisandra (Schisandra chinensis) berry, when an individual shows overall constitutional signs of cold, damp, and stagnation, even if their acute skin condition is hot. (Signs of cold include physically feeling cold, lethargy, poor circulation, sluggish digestion, and metabolic hypofunction such as hypothyroidism.) However, a very important caveat here is that the use of strong hepatic herbs—even those considered cooling!—can sometimes worsen inflammatory skin conditions. It’s possible that this side effect may be due to an imbalance between phase I and phase II reactions, with excess reactive metabolites triggering an inflammatory cascade; it can be helpful to make sure the diet is replete with foods and herbs necessary for both phases of detoxification, particularly emphasizing antioxidant and phase II support.
209
What is the botanical name for burdock?
Burdock – Arctium lappa (Asteraceae)
210
Which part of burdock is used?
Root
211
What are the specific actions of burdock?
Anti-inflammatory, alterative, aperient, bitter, hypoglycemic, lymphatic, prebiotic
212
What are the herbal energetics of burdock?
Cooling
213
What are the clinical patterns and uses for burdock?
```
To restore vitallity and health in those suffering from chronic conditions:
David Hoffmann (2003) has described burdock as a plant that helps to return the body to its original, primal state of wellbeing. Observing its tenacious manner and its stubborn, hairy taproot, one can see burdock’s profound ability to “root” through chronic conditions that have accrued over time and tap into the forces of vitality and health to restore balance.
```
For digestive heat and imbalances:
Burdock root contains inulin, which nourishes beneficial gut microorganisms and supports intestinal health. As a mild bitter, burdock root also tonifies the digestive system by stimulating the secretion of bile and other digestive secretions, improving appetite, digestion, and assimilation. Burdock’s anti-inflammatory properties make it especially useful for individuals who are prone to acid reflux, diarrhea, sour belches, and quick transit times—all of which can be a sign of heat in the digestive tract.
To nourish dry body tissues:
Herbalist Matthew Wood teaches that burdock root is indicated for dry conditions where body tissues need cleansing, increased secretions, and nourishment (Wood, 2008). This, in addition to burdock’s bitter, lymphatic, and alterative nature, may help to improve digestion and the absorption of nutrients, which can then be better distributed throughout the body.
To balance excesses of skin conditions:
These qualities also make burdock root an excellent ally for skin support; by tonifying digestive function and stimulating lymphatic elimination, burdock helps reduce eliminative burden on the skin. Wood recommends burdock root for any dry skin condition, as well as for blocked sebaceous glands resulting in acne, boils, or papules; in contrast, herbalist jim mcdonald suggests that burdock’s normalizing effect extends to the skin, and it is useful whether “the skin is too dry, too oily, or too oily here and too dry there” (mcdonald, n.d., para. 11). For skin support, burdock can be used both internally and topically; dry burdock root can be used in salve, and poultices of burdock leaf have a drawing, cooling, and astringent quality that can be useful for burns, cystic acne, or other skin eruptions.
As a long term nutritive:
According to mcdonald, burdock root is best used as a long-term balancing and nourishing tonic and is not ideal for a quick response to acute conditions; burdock seed has similar lymphatic and alterative properties and may elicit a faster response, but lacks the root’s nutritive and tonifying qualities (mcdonald, n.d.).
214
What are the safety considerations for burdock?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: Individuals with allergic sensitivity to Asteraceae (daisy) family plants may be sensitive to burdock.
Herb/Drug interactions: none
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
215
What is the botanical name for Reishi?
Reishi – Ganoderma lucidum (Ganodermataceae) –
216
Which part of Reishi is used?
Mushroom
217
What are the specific actions of Reishi?
Adaptogen, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, cardioprotective, hepatic, hypotensive, hypolipidemic, immunomodulant, kidney tonic, lung tonic, nervine
218
What are the herbal energetics of Reishi?
Drying and neutral to warming
219
What are the clinical patterns and uses for Reishi?
Immune regulation for autoimmune conditions and allergies:
Like many other bioactive mushrooms, reishi is an excellent immunomodulant that can be effective whether the immune system is hyper- or hyporeactive; it helps to stimulate the activity of lymphocytes and other immune effector cells, but can also help re-balance immune hyperactivity toward normal function (Bhardwaj et al., 2014).
Autoimmune conditions that effect the lungs:
Reishi assists the liver in metabolic detoxification by modulating phase I CYP enzymes and stimulating the activity of phase II enzymes (Wasser, 2005). This combination of immunomodulant, hepatic, and alterative activity makes reishi a useful ally for those with allergies, atopic eczema, and other manifestations of hyperactive immunity and eliminative overload. Because it also supports lung deficiency, reishi is particularly indicated for the atopic triad of eczema, allergies, and allergy-induced asthma.
autoimmune conditions that affect the skin:
With its combination of immunomodulant and anti-inflammatory properties, reishi may also be useful for support with autoimmune conditions affecting the skin; reishi is traditionally used internally, but topical treatment with reishi has been reported to significantly improve cutaneous sarcoidosis lesions (Kurtipek, 2016) and psoriasis (Bhardwaj, 2014).
Extra care is required when preparing reishi as a decoction or tincture to fully extract its beneficial constituents. Decoctions should be allowed to simmer for a minimum of 1 hour, and can benefit from a much longer extraction, up to 24 hours. (A slow cooker can be an excellent tool here!) There are some extra steps required when making a mushroom tincture, so if you’re planning to make your own, take time to do a little research on the best methods first—that way you can be sure you’ll get the most benefit out of your extract!
220
What the safety considerations for Reishi?
Contraindications:
Allergies: should be avoided by individuals with mushroom allergies (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
Drug/Herb interactions: Reishi should be used with caution in individuals taking immunosuppressant, anticoagulant, or antiplatelet medications
Preparation/Dosage:
Concerns: Reishi can be quite drying when used internally; for those with dry conditions or constitutions, including tendency to dry skin, it may be important to balance with moistening herbs to avoid aggravating symptoms.
221
Why is eating whole foods better than taking supplements?
Many supplements include synthetic molecules that may not be well-absorbed, or may lack the cofactors that are necessary for their uptake and use in the cells of the body.
Wholefoods also contain a veriety of phytonutrients not found in supplements.
222
In what way can taking supplements be beneficial, over eating whole foods?
research shows that taking 5 grams per day of supplemental fish oil gives sun-protection benefits—you’d have to eat almost a pound of wild salmon every single day to get that amount of fish oil (Seafood Health Facts, 2018)!
223
What is the primary trigger for skin damage and vissible signs of ageing?
the primary trigger for skin damage and visible signs of aging.
224
Explain oxidation
Oxidation is a chemical reaction between unstable, oxygen-containing molecules—called free radicals, or reactive oxygen species (ROS)—and other molecules. Oxidation is a common, naturally occurring reaction within the body, and it can be either beneficial or harmful.
225
What are anitoxidants?
Antioxidants are molecules that help stabilize ROS without becoming unstable in the process—they serve as a natural check and balance system. Some antioxidants are endogenous (produced within the body), while others are exogenous (they come from the foods we consume).
226
What happens when more reactive oxygen species are produced than what can be balanced by the body's existing anitoxidant capacity?
When more ROS are produced than can be balanced by the body’s existing antioxidant capacity, the resulting oxidative stress causes damage to lipids, proteins, and DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid, the cellular material that carries genetic information).
227
How does oxidative stress damage skin?
Oxidative stress results in damage to fats and proteins in both the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin, and is directly associated with the development of skin wrinkling (Purba et al., 2001). Specifically, oxidative reactions cause protein cross-linking that damages the collagen and elastin matrix that gives the dermis its structure, and impairs the function of most skin cells, including Langerhans cells, melanocytes, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts (Dalle Carbonara & Pathak, 1992). Oxidative stress also drives the development of skin cancers—particularly due to UV radiation exposure (Katta & Brown, 2015)—and plays a role in inflammatory skin conditions like rashes, psoriasis, and eczema (Wagener et al., 2013).
228
What are 3 common causes for ROS production in the skin and body?
Uv exposure
Chemical exposure
Naturally occuring Ozone exposure
229
How do antioxidants counter reactive oxygen species?
1. oxygen molecule loses an electron and so becomes
an ROS
2. antioxidant donates an electron to the ROS, therefore
stabilizing it
230
If ROS causes visible signs of aging in the skin, then why are anitoxidants not a miracle cure for ageing?
In addition to ROS, there are also other reactions within the body that causes the visible signs of ageing
231
Which anitoxidants are beneficial to the skin?
vitamins A,C and E, carotenoids(alpha and beta-carotene, lycopene,lutein, zeaxanthin), flavonoids and coenzyme Q10 In addition to antioxidant activity, these compounds have other beneficial effects that help to prevent chronic disease and inflammation (Yahia, 2018), including prevention of skin damage.
232
What are some of the adverse effects of consuming antioxidant supplements in isolation?
high doses of isolated antioxidant supplements may have some negative health consequences. For example, some studies from the 2000s found an increased association between high doses of vitamin E and prostate cancer, and beta-carotene and lung cancer—however, these results have not been consistently upheld by more recent research (Klein et al., 2011), so at this point the jury is still very much out regarding the risks of supplemental antioxidant therapy.
233
Why does vitamin c deficiency lead to skin fragillity like scurvey?
vitamin C is an essential cofactor for collagen production, and insufficient vitamin C leads to degradation of the collagen matrix that provides the structure of the skin’s connective tissue (Pullar et al., 2017).
234
How does vitamin c deficiency affect the skin?
Extreme vitamin C deficiency, known as scurvy, causes extensive bruising and skin fragility that can lead to severe skin damage and ulceration; more mild vitamin C insufficiency is linked with poor wound healing and keratosis of the hair follicles, particularly on the upper arms (Schagen et al., 2012).
235
What are the beneficial effects of vitamin c on the skin?
prevents/reduces wrinkling
prevent or reverse skin hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and melasma
improves overall skin health and appearance, such as elasticity, evenness, moisture and reduce dark spots.
236
What are good sources of vitamin C
red, yellow, and green peppers, kale, broccoli, spinach, guava, strawberries, oranges, papaya, lemon, and kiwi (United States Department of Agriculture [USDA], 2019)
Some herbs, such as parsley leaf, ginger root, violet leaf, and hibiscus flower contain an appreciable amount of vitamin C as well
237
What destroyes vitamin C
Oxygen
| Cooking at high temperatures
238
Vitamin E consists of which two families of compounds?
tocopherols and tocotrienols
239
How does Vitamin E benefit the skin?
vitamin E help to stabilize cell membranes and prevent oxidation to the fatty acids found in the skin; this inhibits collagen cross-linking that contributes to the appearance of aging (Schagen et al., 2012). Vitamin E supplementation has been shown to help resolve a number of skin disorders that result in visible pathology and deformation of the skin surface, and to help with wound healing; there is some clinical evidence that it may be beneficial in treatment of atopic dermatitis (eczema), psoriasis, and autoimmune skin conditions such as scleroderma and lupus (Keen & Hassan, 2016).
240
What are some natural sources of vitamin E?
vitamin E is found in the oily parts of all grains, seeds, and nuts. Some particularly good sources include sunflower seeds, whole wheat (containing wheat germ), almonds, hazelnuts, avocados, seaweed, and spirulina (USDA, 2019).
241
What are carotenoids?
Carotenoids are a group of many different nutrients that, collectively, give fruits and vegetables their red, yellow, and orange colors. The most prevalent dietary carotenoids are alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene, and zeaxanthin (Pérez-Sánchez et al., 2018).
242
Which carotenoids are metabolized by the body to form vitamin A?
Alpha- and beta-carotene
243
In addition to being an anitoxidant, which source of ROS and oxidative stress does carotenoids protect us from?
Some studies have found that oral administration of either a beta-carotene supplement or a carotenoid-rich diet reduced burning from UV light exposure (in other words, sunburn) (Stahl & Sies, 2002). Many studies have demonstrated the effect of carotenoids in preventing damage from sun exposure, but there is little evidence that carotenoid supplements can help to reverse visible signs of existing sun damage.
244
How doe carotenoids benefit the skin?
carotenoids can be helpful in promoting general skin health and appearance; clinical trials have found that a combination of antioxidant supplements, including carotenoids, selenium, and tocopherols, improved parameters of skin health such as roughness, thickness, and scaling (Heinrich et al., 2006), and that both oral and topical use of carotenoids can improve skin hydration and elasticity (Palombo et al., 2007). In general, it appears that carotenoids are most effective when used in combination with other types of antioxidant molecules—in other words, as they would naturally be found in foods!
245
What are good sources of Carotenoids?
Alpha and Beta carotenoids: Orange vegetables, including carrots, pumpkins, and sweet potatoes
lutein and zeaxanthin: Green vegetables, inlcuding spinach, turnip greens, kale, and parsley
Lycopene: red- or pink-colored fruits and vegetables including tomatoes, red peppers, guava, papaya, grapefruit, and watermelon.
246
What is Coenzyme Q10 and what role does it play in skin health?
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is sometimes considered “the essential non-essential nutrient.” It’s technically non-essential, because (unlike vitamins) it can be synthesized by the body—but practically speaking, it’s truly essential for cellular energy transfer and is consequently found in virtually all human cells. CoQ10 is normally found in epidermal and dermal cells, and in the skin surface lipids of the stratum corneum (Knott et al., 2015).
CoQ10 is also an important cellular antioxidant. Like vitamin E, it helps prevent oxidative damage to cellular membranes, and like vitamin C, it participates in the regeneration of vitamin E (Addor, 2017). CoQ10 also promotes collagen production and helps to prevent enzymatic breakdown of collagen and elastin (Vollmer et al., 2018).
CoQ10 levels in the skin naturally decline with age and in response to UV radiation exposure. Clinical trials have found that oral supplementation with CoQ10 can improve some visible signs of skin damage and aging, including elasticity, smoothness, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (Žmitek et al., 2017).
247
What are the two classes of Phenolic compounds?
They can be classified into flavonoids (including flavones, isoflavones, and anthocyanidins) and non-flavonoid compounds (phenolic acids, lignans, and tannins).
248
How do flavonoids benefit the skin?
prevention of collagen breakdown, increased production of collagen precursors, and prevention of oxidative damage to cellular lipids (Davinelli et al., 2018). Some phenolics also have the capacity to absorb UV radiation, so in addition to counteracting the oxidative damage caused by UV radiation, they may also have some direct sun protection factor (SPF) capacity when applied directly to the skin, acting in a similar manner to sunscreen (Davinelli et al., 2018; Działo et al., 2016). When consumed or applied topically, polyphenolics may be helpful in addressing inflammatory skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea (Działo et al., 2016). Flavonoids—particularly the flavanols found in cocoa—can also increase circulation to the skin when incorporated into the diet, supporting skin health and appearance by improving delivery of oxygen and nutrients (Neukam et al., 2007).
249
Which 3 flavonoids are the most researched?
Some of the most-researched polyphenolic compounds for skin health are epigallocatechin-gallate (EGCG), found primarily in green tea (Camellia sinensis) leaf; resveratrol, found in grape skins (and also red wine) and Japanese knotweed (Reynoutria japonica) root; and curcumin, from turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome (Davinelli et al., 2018).
250
Which 3 trace minerals are crucial for maintaining skin health?
Copper, zinc, and selenium
251
How do Copper, zincc and selenium benefit skin health?
promote the expression of endogenous antioxidant molecules and help prevent lipid peroxidation (Vollmer et al., 2018). Zinc and copper are cofactors for collagen formation (Low Dog, 2016), while copper and selenium both help to stabilize and prevent the enzymatic breakdown of collagen and elastin (Borkow, 2014; Vollmer et al., 2018).
252
What are the concerns when supplementing with copper and zinc?
It’s important to use caution when supplementing with some trace minerals, since both copper and zinc can cause liver toxicity when they overaccumulate in the body (Borkow, 2014; Low Dog, 2016). For daily use, it’s suggested to rely on dietary sources of these trace minerals in combination with a balanced multivitamin-mineral complex when needed (Low Dog, 2016).
253
What are some natural sources for copper, selenium, and zinc?
Oysters and other shellfish, organ meats, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, aduki beans, lima beans, black beans, hazelnuts, and almonds are good sources of all three minerals, while Brazil nuts are notable for being among the highest dietary sources of selenium (USDA, 2019).
254
What role do Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) play in skin health?
they make up a large portion of individual cell membranes and play an integral role in maintaining the skin’s barrier integrity. The type of dietary fats we consume directly influences the composition of the fatty acids and other lipids found in the skin, and can also affect chemical signaling molecules (eicosanoids) that play a role in skin inflammation (Angelo, 2012).
255
How does an essential Fatty Acid deficiency affect skin health?
EFA deficiency causes dry skin, dermatitis, and reduced epidermal barrier function
256
What are good sources of Essential Fatty Acids?
The omega-6 EFAs are relatively common in the American diet, since they’re found in vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, and some vegetables. Omega-3 EFAs can come from plant sources (such as walnuts and hemp, pumpkin, chia, and flax seeds) or animal sources (primarily oily fish, including salmon, herring, and mackerel). However, plant sources contain only one type of omega-3, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), which must then be converted by the body into the other essential omega-3 EFAs, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Conversion of ALA to EPA and DHA is not a very efficient process, so practically speaking, we need to have some direct intake of EPA and DHA in order to meet our nutritional needs (Angelo, 2012). Vegetarians may benefit from taking an algae-based omega-3 DHA or DHA/EPA supplement.
257
Can Essential Fatty Acids be applied directly to the skin?
Topical application of oils rich in EFAs can also help correct fatty acid deficiency in the skin, and may be the most efficient way of resolving its cutaneous symptoms since the lipids are delivered directly to the skin (Angelo, 2012).
258
What are the 3 main factors that result in the decline of collagen production, causing skin wrinkling?
aging
UV exposure
Oxidative stress
259
What is gelatin?
partially hydrolyzed collagen
260
What are good sources of collagen?
Collagen is found in the skin, bones, and connective tissue of animals
however collagen is naturally produced within our bodies from amino acids from proteins, plus vitamin C, zinc, and copper
There are no vegetarian sources of collagen.
261
What are the benefits of collagen supplements?
Collagen supplements and powders are usually made from hydrolyzed collagen, also called collagen peptides. Numerous controlled clinical trials have shown that consumption of hydrolyzed collagen products increased dermal collagen deposition and improved dryness, roughness, wound healing time, and wrinkle depth (Vollmer et al., 2018). It’s worth noting that many of these trials are funded by product manufacturers—but they do provide a growing body of evidence in support of the potential benefits of hydrolyzed collagen products.
262
Does topical application of collagen work?
Although there are many skin creams and other products that include collagen peptides, topical application of collagen is unlikely to do much for skin structure and appearance, since the molecular weight of collagen is too high to allow it to penetrate the epidermis (Baumann & Baumann, 2009).
263
What are advanced glycation end products or AGEs?
advanced glycation end products.
AGEs are formed during a chemical reaction between sugars and proteins—otherwise known as the “Maillard reaction.” We can see this process at work in the kitchen, where it results in the golden color of toast and those delicious crispy-brown bits of roasted veggies. AGEs can come from the diet—particularly from charred, grilled, or broiled meats and other animal products (Uribarri et al., 2010)—but they also form in the body, particularly in response to elevated levels of blood glucose (Gkogkolou & Böhm, 2012).
264
What is the relationship between advanced glycation end products and aging, and
AGEs accumulate naturally in the skin as it ages; tobacco use, exposure to UV radiation, consumption of dietary AGEs, and high blood sugar levels all increase the presence of AGEs in the skin and other tissues (Gkogkolou & Böhm, 2012). The damaging effects of AGEs include breakdown of collagen and elastin, decreased cell regeneration, loss of elasticity, and increased inflammation (Gkogkolou & Böhm, 2012),
265
How can we avoid the excess accumulation of advanced glycation end products in the skin?
A diet that is rich in plant-based foods, minimizes charred, grilled, or broiled meats and animal products, and avoids the excess sugars and refined carbohydrates that cause elevated blood glucose is likely to help reduce accumulation of AGEs in the body.
266
What are some general dietry guidlines for maintaining healhty skin?
Eat plenty of fruits and vegetables!
Eat the rainbow—consuming fruits and veggies from across the color spectrum will help ensure you get a diversity of plant nutrients in your diet, including a range of carotenoids and polyphenols.
Include healthy fats from multiple sources such as oily fish, olive oil, and nuts and seeds in your diet.
Limit consumption of excess sugars and refined carbohydrates to help maintain stable blood sugar levels.
Include skin-supportive nutrients in your diet, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids, copper, zinc, selenium, flavonoids, and essential fatty acids.
267
How does the function of the Gastro Intestinal tract influence the function, appearance and health of the skin?
the assimilation of nutrients in the gut—or the lack thereof—is critically important to skin health. A number of nutrients are key in supporting the skin’s integrity and ability to repair itself, including fatty acids, protein, zinc, vitamins A, C, and E, and the amino acids arginine and glutamine (Saghaleini et al., 2018). Consuming adequate amounts of these nutrients is just the first step—we also need a healthy, fully functioning digestive system in order to assimilate nutrients into our cells and tissues
Many of the interactions between the skin and the GI tract depend on the gut microbiome, which plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin allostasis, beginning with our ability to break down and absorb dietary nutrients; gut bacteria are crucial to digest polysaccharides and even play a role in vitamin biosynthesis (D’Argenio & Salvatore, 2015).
In addition, commensal bacteria in the gut interact with the immune system in several ways that can have downstream effects on the skin. Normal gut flora compete with pathogens for space in our intestinal lining by binding to epithelial cells, thereby providing immunoprotection (Kosiewicz et al., 2014). Beneficial organisms also mediate the relationship between pathogens entering the gut and toll-like receptors (TLRs) located on immune cells. TLRs are receptors that recognize the molecular patterns associated with specific pathogens, and in response, trigger a cascade of chemical responses through signaling pathways, ultimately leading to the activation of immune responses in the gut (Boyle et al., 2011; Kosiewicz et al., 2014).
268
What consequences does a compromised GI tract have for the skin?
When the function of the gut is compromised or imbalanced, inflammatory skin conditions may be more likely to arise. Many skin-related pathologies—including eczema, psoriasis, and acne —have been shown to have a direct link to the state of the gut’s tissues and function.
269
How does the imbalance of the gut microbiome affect skin health?
When the gut environment is out of balance, the metabolites generated by certain bacterial species can affect and damage tissues both in the gut and throughout the body. They may access the blood circulation, accumulate in tissues, and affect cell differentiation and the overall integrity of the skin. When the balance of the gut microbiota is compromised, skin hydration and keratinization can even be impaired (Salem et al., 2018.), and when non-beneficial bacteria proliferate and overtake the gut biome, an immune-related skin imbalance can occur.
270
What is the link between psoriasis and a disrupted gut microbiome?
Although psoriasis is primarily understood as a skin disorder, it operates both on local and systemic levels and involves a complex immune response that can generate inflammation throughout the body, including the cardiovascular and digestive systems. For example, up to 11% of inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) patients also have psoriasis, as compared to less than 3% of the general population (Takeshita et al., 2017). Likewise, psoriasis patients are far more likely to have cardiovascular disease, heart attack, or stroke. The common theme here is excess inflammation—and changes in the gut flora may play a big role. Many of the bacterial species associated with psoriasis originate in the gut, and metabolites produced by the gut biome can influence immune function, shifting the body toward a state of inflammation. But there isn’t one specific germ or microbial group that is driving psoriasis—instead, psoriasis may hinge on the state of balance or imbalance among different complex and individually specific groups of bacteria (Codoñer et al., 2018; Salem et al., 2018)!
271
how does a healthy gut microbiome confer skin benefits?
On the other hand, a healthy gut biome can confer skin health benefits, including the modulation of inflammation, a key factor in addressing psoriasis and, indeed, most chronic conditions. Lactobacillus species have been shown to selectively bind to immune and epithelial cells, and they can secrete peptides that have immunomodulatory effects, including regulation of cytokine expression (Wells, 2011). This may be one reason why probiotic therapy has been shown to improve acne; among other things, commensal bacteria downregulate certain hormones and cytokines that trigger inflammatory acne. There are likely to be other mechanisms at work here, too—for example, the introduction of beneficial gut bacteria can also result in shifts in the flora of the skin, decreasing the presence of acne-causing microorganisms (Salem et al., 2018).
272
What is the connection between a "leaky gut" and autoimmune diseases?
In a healthy individual, small amounts of antigenic (immune-stimulating) material are easily managed without creating any systemic immune response; however, when the gut epithelium becomes excessively porous, larger amounts of bacteria and proteins end up in systemic circulation, kicking off an immune response that can have wide-ranging effects throughout the body (Bergner, 2001).
273
Which factors contributes to intestinal permeability or "leaky gut"?
There are many factors that impact intestinal permeability, notably the diet (and especially food sensitivities and allergies), alcohol consumption, stress, infection, dysbiosis of the gut flora, antibiotics, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and poor nutrition (Bergner, 2001; Mu et al., 2017). Those are a lot of potential inputs to gut health!
274
What is the role of inflamation in leaky gut syndrome?
All the different factors that lead to leaky gut do so through increasing inflammation. Inflammation impairs nutrient absorption, barrier function, and even cause reduced cell mass; ultimately this creates a hyperpermeable gut lining that allows larger molecules (including food antigens) to pass across the mucosal barrier and into the bloodstream and lymphatic circulation.
275
What is the relationship between gut permeabillity and skin conditions?
Leaky gut can also trigger autoimmune responses, including those in which immune cells attack the skin. Autoimmune diseases that may affect the skin include systemic lupus erythematosus (lupus), psoriasis, dermatomyositis, scleroderma or epidermolysis bullosa, Sjogren’s syndrome, and many others (Campbell, 2014).
For example, in lupus, the uptick in immune activity can lead to increased photosensitivity, rashes, lesions, alopecia, and other cutaneous manifestations. Significant and ongoing immune attacks on the skin can lead to pigmentary changes, permanent scarring, tissue atrophy, and alopecia (Uva et al., 2012).
276
What are some lifestyle considerations for supporting the digestive system, in someone with skin conditions?
Mindful eating:
Setting an eating routine
managing Food sensitivities
Healthy Diet, low in processed food.
277
How does mindful eating improve digestive health?
Eating while under stress can affect digestion in a significant way. The gut-brain axis is a conductor for chemical signals and substances including serotonin, cortisol, and neurotransmitters that can affect us deeply when we’re stressed, causing physiological changes that can reduce blood and oxygen flow to the GI tract, affect gut flora balance, and otherwise contribute to impaired digestive processes (Mittal et al., 2017). When we enjoy meals in a relaxed and mindful way, paying attention to our full sensory experience, we also get to enjoy a more relaxed and effective digestive experience.
278
How does an eating routine help improve digestive health?
Eating meals on a regular schedule is also a way to support healthy digestion. When we keep a consistent meal schedule, we help to maintain the body’s natural rhythms of digestion, absorption, processing in the liver, and excretion. Nourishing our bodies on a regular basis also helps to maintain a healthy balance of glucose, insulin, the “hunger hormones” ghrelin and leptin, and other substances that support healthy metabolic function.
279
What is the relationship between food sensitivities and allergies, skin conditions?
food sensitivities and allergies are linked to a higher incidence of skin disorders and can create inflammation and other immune responses and symptoms in the gut
280
What is the relationship between a diet high in refined carbs and skin conditions?
A high glycemic load diet—fairly normal among Westerners—has been linked to gut dysbiosis as well as a higher incidence of acne. Modern researchers noticed this link when comparing young people following a standard American diet with Kitavan Islanders of Papua New Guinea and the Aché people of Paraguay. It was found that the American diet, typified by higher glycemic load foods, was linked to a significantly higher incidence of acne among young people; among the Kitavan and Aché who consumed more traditional foods, acne was essentially nonexistent (Cordain et al., 2002).
281
Gut-skin axis: How do astringents support healthy gut function?
Astringent herbs are high in tannins and polyphenols that tighten and tone tissues by contracting proteins. For example, in the case of “leaky gut,” astringent herbs can help restore tone and barrier function to the intestinal epithelium, and thus keep proteins from infiltrating the bloodstream.
282
What is the botanical name for self heal?
Self heal – Prunella vulgaris (Lamiaceae)
283
Which part of self heal is used?
Aerial parts
284
What are the specific actions of self heal?
Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antimutagenic, antipyretic, antiviral, astringent, immunomodulant, styptic, tonic, vulnerary
285
What are the herbal energetics of self heal?
Cooling and slightly moistening
286
What are the clinical patterns and uses for self heal?
for inflamed and atrophied skin:
Self heal’s leaves have a cooling, mucilaginous quality that make them ideal for drawing out heat and infection, and for general use when skin is irritated and atrophied. Self heal can also be helpful as a fresh plant poultice for wounds and lesions, and in salves, creams, compresses and washes for chronic skin imbalances like eczema (Wood, 2008).
To sooth inflamation of the digestive tract
Just as it soothes and cools the skin when used topically, self heal is taken internally to help clear heat and inflammation. Part of the traditional Chinese materia medica, the herb—Xia Ku Cao in Mandarin—is employed as a cooling bitter helpful for reducing Liver fire, dispersing stagnant qi, and gently nourishing the Liver and Blood (Dharmananda, 2010). Young self heal leaves and stems are also edible and can be eaten raw or cooked.
for inflamation and oxidative stress:
Self heal contains a rich variety of anti-inflammatory polyphenols, including flavonoids, tannins, and caffeic acid. Rosmarinic acid, a primary phenolic compound in self heal, is present in even greater amounts in self heal than rosemary; this compound has been found to protect human dermal cells from oxidative damage and slow inflammatory response through its action as a COX-2 inhibitor and by inhibiting allergic responses and prostaglandins that promote inflammation and pain (Hahn et al., 2017; Tao et al., 2014). In one study, Prunella vulgaris extract and rosmarinic acid were both shown to protect the skin against sun damage by suppressing ultraviolet B-induced alterations to keratinocytes (Vostálová et al., 2010). Like plantain, self heal is rich in the anti-inflammatory compounds ursolic and oleanolic acid.
287
What are the safety considerations for self heal?
Contraindications: GRAS
Allergies: Rare reports of allergies
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
288
Which two astringent herbs have an affinity for the gut-skin axis and is commonly used to improve guts protective barrier?
plantain and self-heal
289
How do vulnerary herbs heal wounds?
ulnerary herbs may have varying modes of action. Some contain soothing, demulcent mucilage, while others have compounds that stimulate regeneration and repair of tissue by stimulating fibroblasts and other connective tissue and skin cells (Bone & Mills, 2013).
290
Which vulnerary herbs have an affinity for the gut-skin axis and is commonly used to improve the guts' protective barrier?
plantain
self heal
calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower,
red clover (Trifolium pratense) aerial parts,
St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, cleavers (Galium aparine) aboveground parts,
nettle (Urtica dioica) leaf.
meadowsweet
291
What is the botanical name for meadowsweet?
Meadowsweet – Filipendula ulmaria (Rosaceae)
292
Which parts of meadowsweet are used?
– Aerial parts
293
What are the specific actions of meadowsweet?
Antiemetic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, astringent, carminative, diaphoretic, diuretic, stomachic, vulnerary
294
What are the herbal energetics of meadowsweet?
Cooling and drying
295
What are the clinical patterns and uses of meadowsweat?
For complaints of the stomach(GERD, heartburn, inflamation, nausea, dyspepsia)
Meadowsweet has long been employed as a stomachic, as it supports digestive health by reducing inflammation of the mucosal surfaces and glands of the stomach and GI tract (Hoffmann, 2003). It regulates the pH balance of the stomach, soothing gastroesophageal reflux disease (GERD) and heartburn, and is also employed for nausea and dyspepsia related to gut inflammation. Meadowsweet contains flavonol glycosides (such as spiraeoside, rutin, hyperin, and kaempferol glucoside) that cool epithelial inflammation (Mills & Bone, 2000).
For gout and other conditions caused by excess uric acid buildup:
Not only is meadowsweet astringent and protective of tissues, it helps to remove the buildup of uric acid in the blood, muscles, and joints. Historically it was used in rheumatism, where it “expels the waste, morbid and diseased particles of matter from the body, and by that process removes the inflammation and pains of the parts affected” (Hool, 1922, quoted by Wood, 2008, p. 256). Excess uric acid in the body can accumulate and crystalize around joints, causing inflammation and pain, as in gout.
To reduce oxidative stress:
Modern research points to meadowsweet’s effectiveness as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and immune-enhancing ingredient in functional beverages, in confirmation of traditional herbal practices. In one study, an analysis of meadowsweet teas made from Filipendula ulmaria and other species substitutes (F. camtschatica, F. denudata, and F. stepposa) showed significant free radical-scavenging activity, protecting against oxidative stress (Olennikov et al., 2016).
To support immune function:
All preparations used in the study were rich in methyl salicylate and salicylaldehyde as well as water-soluble polysaccharides, which also showed anti-complement activity (this means that they block the actions of the complement system, a part of the immune system that triggers a cascade of immune responses). The preparations also encouraged phagocytosis (removal of bacteria and cellular debris), suggesting meadowsweet’s potential use to support immune system function (Olennikov et al., 2016).
296
What are the safety considerations of meadowsweet?
Contraidication: None
Allergies: Meadowsweet contains salicylates and for this reason should be avoided by those with salicylate sensitivity.
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
297
What is the botanical name for orange?
Orange – Citrus spp. (Rutaceae)
298
Which part of Orange is used?
Peel
299
What are the specific actions of Orange?
Antimicrobial, aromatic, bitter, carminative, choleretic, orexigenic
300
What are the herbal energetics of Orange?
Warming and drying
301
What are the clinical patterns and uses for Orange?
Digestive support
As an orexigenic (an appetite stimulant), orange peel has been traditionally used as a digestive support in bitters and aperitifs, taken before meals to increase and stimulate the appetite as a simple way to increase overall nutrition to the body. It is theorized to act on the anterior pituitary, stimulating digestive secretions, modulating blood glucose levels, and helping deliver increased nourishment and water to cells—ultimately resulting in more supple, soft, and full skin (Wood, 2008).
Food poisoning
Citrus peel is exceptionally rich in volatile oils. The volatile oils found in citrus rind have been shown to be powerfully aggressive against certain bacteria commonly associated with food poisoning and gut dysbiosis, including Escherichia coli and Salmonella spp. (Pittman et al., 2011).
Weightloss
Citrus peel also contains monoterpenes, bitter compounds, flavonoids, and alkaloids. A key alkaloid is synephrine, a sympathomimetic compound similar to epinephrine, which contributes to orange peel’s stimulating quality (Braun & Cohen, 2010). This, along with its aromatic and carminative qualities, makes orange peel a popular addition to herbal weight loss formulations.
302
What are the safety considerations for Orange?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: In human studies, the fruit juice of bitter orange (C. x aurantium) has been shown to interact with the drug metabolizing enzyme CYP3A4, so caution is advised when using orange peel with prescription drugs that are metabolized by CYP3A4 (Gardner & McGuffin, 2013).
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
303
Ayurveda: On which three datus is the skin primarily dependend?
mamsa (muscle or flesh),
rasa (plasma and other fluids),
rakta (blood).
304
Ayurveda: Explain the relationship between the skin and rasa datu.
Healthy skin requires healthy fluid balance. Dry skin isn’t caused by a lack of moisturizer, though oiling the skin may help ease dryness. Rather, it is the result of internal dryness, which correlates to depleted rasa. When there is adequate moisture in the body and therefore sufficient rasa, the result is soft, lustrous, smooth skin. However, when rasa is insufficient, skin loses its vitality, and dry skin, wrinkled skin, goosebumps, chapped lips, and even dry hair or hair loss may result (Lad, 2007).
305
Ayurveda: Explain the role of Vata dosha in dry skin conditions.
Dryness is generally linked to a vata imbalance. Since some of the inherent qualities of vata dosha are lightness, dryness, and roughness, excessive vata has a tendency to deplete bodily tissues, thus decreasing the moisture and resilience of the skin, muscles, and other affected tissues. For those who suffer from excess dryness, a vata-pacifying diet and lifestyle program is generally suggested. Such protocols are typically centered around bringing warmth, strength, and moisture back to depleted tissues. Drinking plenty of fluids, eating good quality lipids such as ghee and sesame oil, and applying oils externally to the skin may be part of the suggested program.
306
Ayurveda: What are the Vata pacifying foods and lifestyle changes.
Vata-Pacifying Diet and Lifestyle
Drink plenty of fluids
Include good quality lipids in diet
Favor warm, cooked foods
Favor grounding, nourishing foods (cooked grains, root vegetables, stewed fruits, nuts, spiced milk)
Favor sweet, sour, and salty tastes
Avoid dehydrated food (dried fruit, crackers, jerky, etc.)
Avoid overly pungent food (cayenne, mustard, etc.)
Follow a regular daily rhythm
Apply oil topically
Bundle up when the weather is cold
Avoid excessive exercise and favor gentle, rhythmic movement
Avoid overstimulation (excessive screen time, caffeine, chaotic environments, etc.)
Vata-Pacifying Foods
Fruit: Bananas, coconuts, cooked apples, dates, mangoes, peaches, plums, soaked raisins and prunes
Vegetables: Beets, carrots, parsnips, sweet potatoes, winter squash, zucchini
Grains: Oats, quinoa, rice, wheat
Legumes: Mung beans, red lentils
Dairy: Butter, buttermilk, goat cheese and other soft cheeses, milk
Meat and eggs: Beef, chicken, duck, eggs, salmon, sardines, tuna
Spices and condiments: Basil, black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, dill, fennel, garlic, ginger, lemon, lime, oregano, paprika, parsley, rosemary, tamari, thyme, turmeric, vinegar
Nuts and seeds: Chia, flax, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds
Oils: Ghee, olive oil, sesame oil
307
Ayurveda: What are the signs of skin affected by excess rasa?
pallor, swelling, edema, and cold, clammy skin (Lad, 2007).
308
Ayurveda: Is an excess of rasa a Vata or Kapha disturbance?
Kapha
309
Ayurveda: What are the Kapha foods and lifestyle changes?
Kapha-Pacifying Diet and Lifestyle
```
Avoid excess water, salt, sugar, and dairy
Favor pungent, bitter, and astringent tastes
Favor warm, cooked foods
Bundle up when the weather is cold
Vigorous exercise
Sunbathing
Garshana (dry brushing)
Sweating
Avoid oversleeping
```
Kapha-Pacifying Foods
Fruit: Apples, berries, pears, persimmons, pomegranates, prunes, raisins
Vegetables: Asparagus, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, green beans, kale, mushrooms, peppers, radishes, spinach
Grains: Barley, buckwheat, corn, millet, rye, tapioca
Legumes: Adzuki beans, black beans, chickpeas, lentils, lima beans, split peas
Dairy: Cottage cheese, goat milk
Meat and eggs: Eggs, rabbit, shrimp, venison
Spices and condiments: Black pepper, caraway, cardamom, cayenne, cinnamon, clove, cumin, dill, fenugreek, garlic, ginger, horseradish, mustard, oregano, parsley, rosemary, thyme, turmeric
Nuts and seeds: Brazil nuts, cashews, chia seeds, hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts
Oils: Ghee, sunflower oil
310
Ayurveda: What are the signs of skin affected by rakta disturbance?
Disturbance in rakta dhatu may manifest as eczema, psoriasis, acne, hives, rashes, bruising easily, and/or canker sores and bleeding from the gums (Lad, 2007).
311
Ayurveda: What are the pitta food and lifestyle changes?
Pitta-Pacifying Diet and Lifestyle
Favor sweet, bitter, and astringent tastes
Avoid overly spicy or sour foods and beverages
Avoid fried foods
Avoid alcohol
Avoid excess sugar intake
Relaxing self-care practices: massage, quiet time, spending time with loved ones
Avoid excess exposure to the sun
Pitta-Pacifying Foods
Fruits: Coconuts, dates, melons, pears, pomegranates, sweet apples and berries
Vegetables: Broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, green beans, kale, mushrooms, parsnips, peas, sweet potatoes, white potatoes, winter squash, zucchini
Grains: Amaranth, barley, oats, quinoa, rice, spelt, wheat
Legumes: Adzuki beans, black beans, chickpeas, kidney beans, lentils, mung beans, pinto beans
Dairy: Milk, butter, ghee, goat cheese and other fresh soft cheeses
Meat and eggs: Bison, freshwater fish, rabbit, venison
Spices and condiments: Basil, cilantro, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, dill, fennel, fresh ginger, turmeric
Nuts and seeds: Flax, soaked and peeled almonds, sunflower seeds
Oils: Sunflower oil, ghee, olive oil
312
Ayurveda: The skin is included as part of which datu?
the organ of the skin itself is part of mamsa dhatu, which also encompasses muscles and ligaments. Mamsa dhatu forms a protective barrier between the individual and the outside world. It relates to courage, self-confidence, and one’s ability to exert their will in a healthy way in the world.
313
Ayurveda: What happens when there is an imbalance in the mamsa dathu?
According to ayurvedic practitioner Dr. Robert Svoboda (1999), “Your muscle fibers provide you a sense of security: they are the bricks and stones of your body’s fortifications against attack from without” (p. 77). When mamsa dhatu is excessive (generally the result of too much kapha dosha), one may become fearless, but also foolish, suffering from over-confidence. When mamsa dhatu is lacking (generally caused by imbalanced vata or pitta doshas), one may experience fearfulness and a lack of self-confidence, as well as thin skin, both literally and figuratively (Halpern, 1995).
314
Ayurveda: What can be done to bring balance to mamsa dathu?
When kapha dosha increases in mamsa dhatu, skin may feel taught or inflexible, and edema may be evident. Avoiding heavy foods and favoring pungent foods and herbs, such as ginger (Zingiber officinale) rhizome, long pepper (Piper longum) fruit, and black pepper (Piper nigrum) fruit, along with exercise that promotes flexibility and circulation, can help to reduce kapha dosha in this case. When there is excess pitta dosha in mamsa dhatu, skin may become inflamed, and cooling, bitter, and sweet foods and herbs are suggested, such as barberry (Berberis spp.) root, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root, and shatavari (Asparagus racemosus) root. Only gentle exercise is suggested during this type of pitta imbalance. If vata dosha is aggravated in mamsa dhatu, the skin may become weak, prone to injury, and sensitive to pain. To reduce vata dosha in mamsa dhatu, warm, sweet, and sour foods should be favored, along with sweet herbs combined with warm digestive spices, such as ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) root combined with cinnamon (Cinnamomum spp.) bark or cumin (Cuminum cyminum) seed. A regular daily routine will also help to manage vata dosha (Halpern, n.d.).
315
Ayurveda: What is Ojas?
Ojas is a subtle substance that is responsible for one’s immunity and overall sense of wellbeing. As declared in the Caraka Samhita (Dash & Sharma, 2014), “It is the ojas which keeps all living beings refreshed. There can be no life without ojas” (p. 595).
316
Ayurveda: How can Ojas be promoted in the body?
To boost ojas, and therefore promote lustrous, healthy skin, balanced digestion is key (see suggestions for managing digestion below), since the conversion of food to each of the seven dhatus must first happen before ojas can be created. One can also promote the production of ojas through meditation, getting enough sleep, and avoiding depleting or over-stimulating activities, such as excessive exercise and overuse of electronic devices (Lad, 2002). Ayurveda also considers some foods to be ojas-promoting, including dates, non-homogenized whole milk, almonds, ghee, coconut water, mangoes, sesame seeds, and sweet potatoes (Kripalu School of Ayurveda, 2014).
317
Ayurveda: What is the relationship between Ojas and the skin?
Ojas is what gives us our sense of vitality and immunity.
Our skin is our first line of defense against the outside world, and therefore is a key aspect of the immune system. Skin that is lustrous and healthy indicates a strong immune system. Skin that is either too dry or too oily, or that is inflamed or discolored, indicates a compromised immune system (Frawley, 2000). By nourishing the skin, one maintains a healthy barrier between oneself and one’s environment. Also, healthy skin indicates a deep inner health, and skin imbalances may reveal disharmony beneath the surface.
318
Ayurveda: Recipe for Ojas milk?
Adapted from Kripalu School of Ayurveda Training Manual (Kripalu School of Ayurveda, 2014).
Enjoy a warm cup of ojas milk to build immunity during times of stress, convalescence, or cold and flu season!
Ingredients
1 cup (8 fl oz) non-homogenized whole milk, or non-dairy milk of choice
10 almonds
2 dates
¼ tsp ginger (Zingiber officinale) rhizome powder
¼ tsp cinnamon (Cinnamomum spp.) bark powder
¼ tsp cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) seed powder
¼ tsp poppy (Papaver somniferum) seed
1 pinch saffron (Crocus sativus) stigma
Directions
Soak almonds overnight in room temperature water.
After almonds have soaked, remove almond “skin,” and chop.
Place milk, chopped almonds, chopped dates, poppy seeds, and herbal powders in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer.
Stir, then turn off the heat.
Blend with an immersion blender, add saffron, and pour into a mug.
319
Ayurveda: What is the relationship between skin health and digestion and what does that mean for skin health?
Many skin imbalances are caused by the accumulation of unprocessed metabolic waste, known as ama. When digestion is sub par and ama is generated (low agni), those wastes need to be excreted somehow, and that path of excretion is often through the skin! Wastes that are excreted through the skin will likely compromise skin health and clarity (Svoboda, 1999).
This means that healthy skin requires healthy digestion/metabolis or agni?
320
Ayurveda: What is a general herbal approach to pacifying pitta skin conditions?
internal use of alteratives and cholagogues, such as dandelion (Taraxicum officinale) root, burdock (Arctium lappa) root, aloe (Aloe vera) leaf, turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome, guduchi (Tinospora cordifolia) stem, red clover (Trifolium pratense) aerial parts, and manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) root, is generally the best course of action, at least initially. In the case of pitta-type skin irritations, it is best to take these herbs as teas or churnas (powdered whole herbs). Alcohol-based tinctures are generally not appropriate for pitta-type imbalances, as alcohol is heating and aggravates pitta. However, glycerites may be appropriate. Aloe juice and aloe gel (food grade) taken internally are very supportive for acne and other skin issues that involve redness and inflammation.
Guduchi (Tinospora cordifolia) stem protects and rejuvenates the liver, and it is often used in skin formulas because of this positive effect on hepatic function. Guduchi possesses a mixture of the bitter, pungent, sweet, and astringent tastes and has a warm energy and a sweet, nourishing post-digestive effect. It is a tridoshic herb, meaning that it is suitable for all three doshas. However, it is most commonly utilized for pitta-type imbalances. Guduchi may be taken in cases of rashes, liver issues, gallstones, and bacterial infections, as well as a host of other scenarios that involve the liver and an aggravated pitta dosha. Guduchi also protects ojas and helps to regulate the immune system (Dass, 2013).
321
What is the botanical name for Manjistha?
Manjistha – Rubia cordifolia (Rubiaceae)
322
What parts of manjistha are used?
Root
323
What are the specfic actions of Manjistha?
Alterative, anti-inflammatory, antilithic, antipruritic, antitumor, astringent, circulatory stimulant, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, hemostatic, vulnerary
324
What are the herbal energetics of Manjistha?
Cooling, drying
325
What are the clinical patterns and uses for Manjistha?
To pacify Pitta:
Manjistha is useful in dealing with a host of pitta-related imbalances, and is particularly indicated for clearing skin issues such as acne, rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis. This is largely due to its alterative properties and ability to support liver and spleen function (Dass, 2013). Manjistha is well-known in Ayurveda for its ability to cool the blood, and it helps to clear it of excessive pitta and ama—both useful attributes for a skin-supporting herb!
For slow healing wounds and Pitta skin conditions:
Manjistha can also help promote the circulation of blood to the skin, improving the body’s ability to manage slow-to-heal wounds. For dealing with pitta-type skin conditions, manjistha combines well with neem (Azadirachta indica) leaf, turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome, gotu kola (Centella asiatica) leaf, and aloe (Aloe vera) leaf (Pole, 2013).
For itchy skin conditions:
It is antipruritic and can help to ease the itchiness of eczema, psoriasis, and other itchy skin conditions when used topically. It even has a special ayurvedic action known as varnya (a substance that improves the complexion) (Pole, 2013).
Stops bleeding:
Manjistha is a useful hemostatic in cases of excess bleeding
Softens tissue:
and helps to break up accumulations of kapha in the bladder, liver, and uterus. This softening quality is why manjistha is often suggested in instances of kidney stones, gallstones, and fibroids.
Sooth mental irritation
Manjistha can also be used to help soothe mental irritability, especially when combined with nervines such as gotu kola (Centella asiatica) leaf, skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora) aerial parts, and shankhpushpi (Evolvulus alsinoides) aerial parts (Dass, 2013).
326
What are the safety considerations for Manjistha?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: None
Drug/Herb interactions: None
Preparation/Dosage: None
Concerns: None
Constitution: Manjistha is not suitable for those with a vata imbalance or a strong vata constitution.
327
Ayurveda: What is the general herbal approach to pacifying Vata skin conditions?
In general, the suggested course of action is to eat foods that are moist, warm, oily, and grounding. External applications of sesame oil may also be helpful (Frawley, 2000). Commonly used herbs include the classic ayurvedic formula, triphala (fruits of Terminalia bellirica, T. chebula, and Phyllanthus emblica), which helps to regulate bowel movements and provides a gentle cleansing effect. Also, demulcents such as marshmallow (Althea officinalis) root, shatavari (Asparagus racemosus) root, and licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root are suggested. For vata skin imbalance, the approach is to nourish and build rasa, and to alleviate dryness from the inside out.
328
Ayurveda: What is the general herbal approach to pacifying Kapha skin conditions?
Kapha-type skin imbalances are characterized by water retention, oozing or weeping sores, and skin that feels damp. Cold and moist temperatures will make kapha skin conditions worse. To address the underlying imbalance, one should eat kapha-reducing foods, which are hot, light, and dry. Hot, dry weather and sweating are also helpful. Herbal formulas such as triphala guggulu are supportive.
329
Ayurveda: Triphala guggulu recipe
This traditional formula is a channel clearer and skin detoxifier (Frawley, 2000).
Ingredients
5 parts guggul (Commiphora mukul) resin powder
3 parts triphala powder (1 part bibhitaki (Terminalia bellirica), 1 part haritaki (Terminalia chebula), and 1 part amalaki (Phyllanthus emblica) fruits)
1 part long pepper (Piper longum) fruit powder
Directions
Combine all powders and mix until evenly distributed.
The suggested dosage can vary quite a bit, depending upon the individual. Thus, it is helpful to consult with a qualified herbalist or ayurvedic practitioner. In general, ⅛-¼ teaspoon of the powder 2x/day is a good starting poin
330
What is the botanical name for neem?
Neem – Azadirachta indica (Meliaceae)
331
What parts of Neem are used?
– Bark, leaf, fresh twig
332
What are the specific actions of neem?
Alterative, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antipruritic, antipyretic, antiseptic, antiviral, bitter, hypoglycemic, vulnerary
333
What are the herbal energetics of neem?
Cooling, drying
334
What are the clinical patterns and uses of neem?
Chronic skin conditions:
Neem possesses extremely cool, bitter, and purifying qualities, which make it a popular choice for soothing skin irritations, acne, chronic skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, liver and blood disorders, parasites, and a number of other maladies that benefit from strong purification. Neem particularly targets the liver, spleen, blood, and lymphatic systems. Its anti-inflammatory, vulnerary, antipyretic, and antimicrobial properties are helpful for skin issues, and for this reason it is common to find soaps, shampoos, skin oils, and other topical products made with neem.
Bacterial and fungal infections:
Topical applications of neem are particularly useful for bacterial and fungal infections of the skin (Dass, 2013).
Pacify pitta and kapha dosha:
Neem decreases pitta and kapha doshas, but increases vata dosha. Its cool, bitter qualities are strongly pitta-reducing and it is especially useful for skin conditions that are a result of pitta or rakta imbalance. This holds true when the herb is taken internally to cool the gastrointestinal tract, as well as when it is applied topically to calm skin inflammations and irritations. Neem combines well with turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome, gotu kola (Centella asiatica) leaf, guduchi (Tinospora cordifolia) stem, and rose (Rosa spp.) petal for inflammatory skin conditions (Pole, 2013).
Detox the body and GI tract:
The alterative and astringent qualities of neem aid the body in removing ama and
prophelactic for malaria and parasites
its anthelmintic action makes it useful in avoiding the contraction of parasites and malaria. It is therefore an ally for the world traveler—a small amount of neem can be taken daily when traveling to places where parasites and malaria are common (Dass, 2013).
335
What are the safety considerations fo neem?
Contraindications: None
Allergies: None
Drug/herb interactions None
Preparations/Dosage: Best for short term use in low doses.
Concerns: None
Constitution: Neem is not suitable for those with a vata imbalance or a strong vata constitution. Neem is best used short term or at low doses (Pole, 2013).
336
TCM: What is the chinese word for dermatology
Wei ke
337
TCM: What external pathology is considered to be the root cause of skin problems?
Wind
338
TCM: Why is treating the skin condition in isolation not the best approach?
Because the skin as an organ reflects the internal harmony of the body. If you have a skin condition it is very likely that the cause is not the skin but a disharmony within the system. A good metaphor is the "root and branches" metaphor. the skin problem is the branches, but the root cause is somehwere else?
339
TCM: Why do TCM doctors often treat the lung when the patient presents with skin conditions?
The skin is viewed as the "third lung". The skin is a major organ of detoxification. When something is wrong internally the burden of elimination is shunted to the skin. What is happening on the skin is a reflection of what is happening in the lung and the lung in TCM is connected to all the other organs internally
340
TCM:What is a typical progression of skin conditions?
Wind(ovestimulaion) causes heat(inflamation), cause dryness(flaky), cause dampness(oozing, phlegm, puss).
341
TCM: What is the cure for wind?
Blood (softeness, elasticity, flexibillity,)
342
TCM: What herbs are used to treat blood?
alteratives or blood tonics (particularly liver blood tonics)
343
TCM: What creates blood?
Spleen chi (the energy derived from food) is converted in to blood
344
TCM: What is the cause of not having enough blood?
deficiency in digestive energy
345
TCM: What herbs are used to build and strengthen the spleen's abillity to produce blood?
spleen adaptogens: ginseng, astragalus, cordonopsis, dong shen
346
TCM: What herbs help to release the exterior?
cooling diaphorectics: yarrow, echinacea
347
TCM: Why is liquorice added to so many herbal formulas?
It is seen as "the great harmonizer" and it takes the formula to the 12 channels.
348
TCM: What are some common lifestyle changes recommended for skin conditions?
avoid eating:
- spicy pungent foods -heat
- flying birds (chicken) -wind
- coffee -heat
Eat more
- pork, beef -builds blood
- water -cooling
do less:
-mentally overstimulating things(screen time etc.)
349
Why would manufacturers knowingly add potentially dangerous ingredients to mass-marketed skin products?
There are many reasons: they may be more cost effective, they may improve product shelf life, they may be easier to source, and they often don’t have the sustainability issues associated with some other ingredients (B. Clare, personal communication, 2010).
350
Toxic ingredients: Aluminum
Aluminum is a metal element commonly found in soil, water, and, in low levels, in some of the foods we eat (Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, n.d.). Different forms of aluminum and aluminum compounds are commonly used in cosmetic products: aluminum salts and aluminum chlorohydrates are used in deodorants and antiperspirants to reduce sweating; aluminum powder is used as a coloring agent in makeup; and aluminum silicate and other aluminum compounds are used as thickening agents in liquid skin care products, as well as foods (Cosmetics Info, 2016; Environmental Working Group [EWG], 2019a).
While the FDA and EWG rate most of these aluminum-based ingredients as generally safe, there is potential for concern depending on the concentration and use of individual products; aluminum powder is a prohibited ingredient in any cosmetics used on the lips, as it has the potential to cause an allergic response and respiratory and nervous system toxicity in very high doses (EWG, 2019a). While many researchers have suggested a link between aluminum and Alzheimer’s disease, there is currently not enough evidence that clearly supports the theory (Gupta et al., 2005; Klotz et al., 2017). Aluminum chloride is allowed for use in deodorants and antiperspirants; it has a similar potential to cause an allergic response and organ system toxicity in high concentrations (EWG, 2019a). In the European Union, a formal commission is currently engaged in reviewing the safety data to determine whether aluminum should be permitted for use in cosmetic products; results of this investigation are still pending (European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, 2017).
351
Toxic ingredients: Coal tar dye
Coal tar is a toxic byproduct of coal burning: a thick, dark liquid used in cosmetics, hair dyes, and personal care products, particularly those indicated for skin conditions like dandruff, dermatitis, and eczema (Toxic Free Foundation, 2014).
However, coal tar has been extensively studied and shown to be highly carcinogenic for individuals exposed occupationally (such as coal workers or roofers), with an increased risk of mortality from lung, kidney, and prostate cancer (National Library of Medicine, 2017). When it comes to damage specifically linked to aromatic amines (components of coal tar that are sometimes used in hair dye), hairdressers and barbers are at the highest risk. One study revealed that individuals who worked as hairdressers and barbers for over 10 years had a fivefold increase of bladder cancer compared to individuals not exposed to hair dyes; coal tar is not just an occupational hazard, however—the same study found over a twofold increase in bladder cancer for individuals who used permanent hair dyes at least once a month (Gago-Dominguez et al., 2001).
Coal tar goes by many different names on ingredient lists. Look for the following: carbo-cort, estar, impervotar, KC 261, lavatar, picis carbonis, naphtha, benzin B70, or petroleum benzoin (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019a).
352
Toxic ingredients:Diethanolamine (DEA)
Diethanolamine (DEA) and related ingredients are used in skin care products and cosmetics as emulsifiers and foaming agents, and to regulate pH levels (U.S. Food & Drug Administration [FDA], 2006). DEA is an organic (carbon-containing) chemical compound with long-chain fatty acids that are easily turned into surfactants (National Institutes of Health [NIH], 2019). Surfactants are substances, including soap, that decrease the surface tension of water and allow lipids and water to mix.
In addition to soaps, DEA and DEA-like compounds, including monoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA), are used in the production of shampoos and conditioners, hair dyes, detergents, shaving creams, sunscreens, fragrances, cosmetics, and lubricants (National Library of Medicine, 2010).
Inhalation of DEA can cause acute irritation of the nose and throat; topical use can trigger skin irritation (NIH, 2019). While the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has not listed DEA as a carcinogen, the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep® database for cosmetic safety gives DEA a score of 10, meaning the ingredient is considered highly toxic (EWG, 2019b). The use of DEA is prohibited for use in cosmetic products in Canada (Health Canada, 2018) and by the European Commission (European Commission, 2019).
353
Toxic ingredients: Formaldehyede releasers
Formaldehyde releasers are used for their antimicrobial properties in cosmetics and personal care products to extend shelf life. Many chemicals fall under the umbrella of formaldehyde releasers, and as you might expect, these chemicals work by breaking down slowly over time to release formaldehyde—a known carcinogen, skin sensitizer, and allergen (EWG, 2019c).
When reading labels, you may see formaldehyde releasers listed under the following names: DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, bronopol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, and hydroxymethylglycinate (EWG, 2019c). However, these are only the most common among dozens of formaldehyde releasers. Visit the EWG’s Skin Deep® database to search the full list.
354
Toxic ingredients: Micronized ingredients
Micronized ingredients, often referred to as nanoparticles, are prevalent in over one quarter of all skin care products (EWG, 2019d). They’re found in everything from exfoliating scrubs to sunblock, and they vary in size, which can determine their absorption rate and toxicity (EWG, 2019d). Nanoparticles are composed of a variety of substances, such as metal ions (e.g., titanium dioxide), surfactants, polymers, and lipids (Khan et al., 2017).
Nanoparticles enhance the effects of products in a number of ways. Sunscreens use zinc oxide nanoparticles to protect the skin from potentially harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun without coating the skin in a white film. Anti-aging skin creams use lipid-based nanoparticles to plump the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Face washes with nanoparticles exfoliate the skin and remove dead skin cells. Micronized agents are also found in powdered cosmetics, like bronzer, foundation powder, blush, and eyeshadow (EWG, 2019d).
Nanoparticles are considered an environmental threat; when products containing these ingredients are washed off of the body, they eventually find their way into the local water supply, and can accumulate in groundwater and soil. Nanoparticles can leach into soil and groundwater and then be uptaken by plants; metals and other compounds carried by nanoparticles can be toxic to plants, affecting growth, development, and reproduction (Lee et al., 2010). Once they make their way into the water supply, nanoparticles can interfere with beneficial bacteria in wastewater treatment plants, and can prove toxic to wildlife (Raj et al. 2012).
355
Toxic ingredients: Mineral oil and other petrochemical derivatives?
Mineral oil and other petroleum derivatives are, of course, petroleum byproducts, produced during the extraction or refinement of crude oil (International Agency for Research on Cancer [IARC], 2012). They’re colorless, odorless, and used in countless products, including baby oil, laxatives, personal lubricants, lotions, ointments, and cosmetics.
However, this class of ingredients comes with some warnings. Petroleum-based products create an occlusive barrier (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019c); while in some instances that may help prevent infection by keeping out microbes, it can prevent air circulation, clog pores, and trap dirt, oil, and moisture, which can promote fungal and yeast growth on the skin.
Completely refined mineral oil is considered an inert substance and is theoretically free from health risks; however, in the U.S., there’s virtually no oversight on the mineral oil and petrolatum used in cosmetics. Petroleum derivatives in cosmetic products may contain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are known carcinogens (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019c). In one study, women with high PAH levels had a 50% greater risk of developing breast cancer (Gammon et al., 2002). Petroleum oils, including mineral oil, have also been shown to have xenoestrogenic activity with the potential to disrupt human endocrine function (Vrabie et al., 2010).
Mineral oil may appear as petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly), liquid paraffin, or paraffin oil on ingredient labels.
356
Toxic ingredients: Parabens
Parabens are synthetic compounds found in health and beauty products with high water content, such as liquid soaps, shampoos, conditioners, and lotions. Because of their antimicrobial properties, they are used as preservatives to increase the shelf life of these products (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019b).
While the FDA has not determined that parabens are a concern to our health (FDA, 2018a), some research suggests otherwise. Studies have shown they can cause endocrine disruption by mimicking estrogen and binding to estrogen receptors, which may explain why traces of parabens have been found in breast cancer tissue (Darbre et al., 2004; Darbre & Harvey, 2008).
Parabens in cosmetics are regulated in the European Union (EU), with strict limits on allowed concentration; five parabens were banned altogether by the EU in 2014, while others are barred from use in diaper creams out of concern for high absorption through damaged skin (Gallon, 2014).
357
Toxic ingredients: Phthalates
Phthalates are used to make plastics flexible (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention [CDC], 2017), and they’re found in everything from toys to construction materials. In cosmetics, phthalates are used to soften skin and homogenize ingredients in hair spray, nail polish, body oil, wet wipes, diaper and nipple cream, lotion, liquid soap, shampoo, deodorant, and perfume (FDA, 2019).
Phthalates have been widely studied, and may increase the risk for decreased sperm motility and concentration, decreased pulmonary function, insulin resistance, and decreased thyroid hormone levels (Swan, 2008).
Because phthalates are found in baby oils, baby shampoos, baby powders, diaper and nipple creams, as well as some pacifiers and formula bottles, infants are at increased risk of phthalate exposure (FDA, 2019). Infants are also more prone to exposure due to their hand-to-mouth behaviors (CDC, 2017), and they can be exposed to phthalates through breast milk, as well as in utero through the placenta (EWG, 2019e). A number of specific health outcomes are associated with exposure to high concentrations of phthalates in infants and children, including incomplete testicular descent, reduced penile size, eczema, asthma, and increased luteinizing hormone (LH) and sex hormone binding globulin (SHBG) (Swan, 2008).
358
Toxic ingredients: Retinyl Palmitate and Retinoic Acid
Retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid are forms of vitamin A. When used topically, retinyl palmitate is converted by enzymes in the skin to produce retinol, which in turn can be converted into its active form: retinoic acid (Mukherjee et al., 2006; Sorg et al., 2006).
Products containing retinyl palmitate are used to increase cell turnover rate on the skin to promote new skin production. These products are intended to make the skin look “younger” by stimulating collagen fiber growth, minimizing scarring and wrinkles, and improving pigmentation.
However, there are potential side effects to retinol-containing skin care products. Redness, peeling, dryness, scaling, itching, burning, and sensitivity are the most common skin reactions (EWG, 2019f). Retinol can also collect in the mammary glands, which can then be excreted in breast milk (Benvenuti, 2007), so products containing retinol are not recommended while lactating.
The German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment recommends that the concentration of vitamin A be restricted in cosmetics, and that it should not be used at all in lip or body care products (Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung, 2014). There is some concern that retinyl palmitate may cause negative reproductive effects and accelerate tumor growth when exposed to ultraviolet light (EWG, 2019f). This is an area of concern, since retinyl is commonly used in sunscreens and anti-aging cosmetics, although there are currently no studies showing that retinyl palmitate can cause cancer in humans.
359
Toxic ingredients: Synthetic fragrances
Synthetic fragrances are exactly what they sound like: chemical compounds, produced from other chemicals in a lab or manufacturing setting, intended to either mimic a desired natural scent or create a new scent entirely.
Many synthetic fragrances are extracted from chemicals such as petroleum with the use of various solvents.This extraction method relies on the use of harsh chemicals that can pull specific molecules out of petroleum or other substances. Once the process is complete, yet another separation process is required to remove the solvent from the newly isolated chemical. However, traces of the solvent, which can be toxic, may be left behind in the newly isolated fragrance (EWG, 2019g).
This inexpensive method of extraction can be used for creating synthetic fragrances as well as essential oils. This is a very different process than steam distillation of plant material, which isolates and extracts essential oils from plants without the use of harmful chemicals. The centuries-old method of steam distillation involves placing plant material in a chamber exposed to steam heat from boiling water. The steam grabs the essential oils from the plant, and is either carried through a tube to a separate chamber or rises to the top, where it condenses and cools into a highly concentrated, scented liquid (B. Clare, personal communication, 2010).
Exposure to synthetic fragrances can cause a host of acute symptoms and long-term effects, whether that exposure be from applying fragrance to your own skin or standing next to someone who has! Some of the more common reactions associated with exposure to synthetic fragrances include skin irritation, headaches, dizziness, shortness of breath, and cough (EWG, n.d.). However, more serious health concerns are also associated with synthetic fragrance, especially from those that contain phthalates (discussed previously), which are linked to reproductive imbalances such as sperm damage (Swan, 2008).
Another concerning aspect of synthetic fragrance in body care products is that manufacturers don’t have to include fragrance ingredients on product labels, meaning consumers won’t always know what’s inside. If the ingredient list includes “fragrance,” or “parfum,” the product may contain any number of synthetic fragrances (EWG, 2019g). Make note of this when looking at labels—and, unfortunately, this also goes for unlabeled homemade products you might find at a fair, farmers market, or online, since not all do-it-yourself product makers are aware of the safety and quality issues in fragrance and essential oils.
360
Toxic ingredients: Talc
Talc is a naturally occurring mineral composed of magnesium, silicon, oxygen, and hydrogen (FDA, 2018b). It’s commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products, such as baby powder, to prevent caking and absorb moisture (American Cancer Association [ACA], 2019), and it is also found as an anti-caking agent in prepared foods (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019d).
There are many health concerns associated with talc. It has been shown to cause respiratory irritation when inhaled (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019d), and it may also be contaminated with asbestos, which the International Agency for Research on Cancer has labeled as a carcinogen (Antony et al., 2010).
Concerningly, many talc powders may contain asbestos even if they are labeled asbestos-free (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019d); a major U.S. producer of talc-containing baby powder, Johnson & Johnson, was found to have knowingly distributed talc containing asbestos and was held legally responsible for subsequent cases of ovarian and lung cancers in product users (Feeley et al., 2019). What’s more, studies have shown that even certified asbestos-free talc powder may increase the risk of developing ovarian cancer and endometrial cancer (ACA, 2019). While talc is not considered a carcinogen by the U.S. National Toxicology Program (ACA, 2019), the EU has restricted the commercial use of talc (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, 2019d).
Talc may be labeled as talcum and magnesium silicate, so look for these names on ingredient lists.
361
Toxic ingredients: Triclosan and triclocarban
Triclosan and triclocarban are antimicrobial agents used in oral care products, deodorants, and soaps. These chemicals are no longer permitted for use in over-the-counter soaps and hand washes in the U.S., due to their potential role in hormonal disruption and the development of antibiotic resistance, and the lack of evidence that they actually prevent the spread of disease (Halden et al., 2017).
Triclosan and triclocarban were found to be lingering, carcinogenic environmental toxins, with traces found in aquatic plants and animals, human blood and breast milk, food, drinking water, and dust (Halden et al., 2017). Until very recently, triclosan was still included in several other personal care products, including hand sanitizer and even toothpaste (Kary, 2019). Triclosan is being phased out of most over-the-counter products in the U.S., but may still appear in hand sanitizers and sanitizing wipes (FDA, 2016).
362
Toxic ingredient: Isopropyl alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol: A common ingredient in body care products, isopropyl alcohol is a drying irritant that breaks down the body’s natural protective oils (Environmental Working Group, n.d.). Note that while many product labels indicate that a product is free of alcohols, not all alcohol-based ingredients are damaging to the skin or hair.
363
Toxic ingredients: FD&C color pigments
FD&C color pigments: These pigments, which are widely used and add color to body care products, are generally from synthetic sources and are known to be carcinogenic (Environmental Working Group, n.d.).
364
Environmentally damaging ingredient: Palm oil
Palm oil: Virgin rainforests throughout southeast Asia and Africa are clear-cut to plant palm oil plantations, leading to irreversible ecosystem damage, habitat loss, and the deaths of thousands of animals, primarily primates (Strona et al., 2018; Union of Concerned Scientists, n.d.). Under-regulated palm oil production, as in many agricultural industries, can bring harm to local workers and communities.
