Germany Flashcards
quick history recap of german wines
- famous for quality since middle ages, expansion during 16th century thanks to river rhine (famous european waterway)
- decline for the 30 years war, land used for grain for bread and beer
- new wines laws from 1830, then unity of the country in 1871, then building of institutes like Gelsenheim university
- philloxera, mildew, WWI and II
- restructuring and modern laws in 1971
famous ancient estates in rheingau
schloss johannisberg
kloster eberbach
1980s germany was famous for what style and % of export
bulk cheap muller thurgau and kerner
60% total export
what is Liebfraumilch and famous brands
muller thurgau and kernel, high yields of ripe grapes for inexpensive medium sweet wines
famous in 1980s
black tower, blue nun most famous brands
what is Flurbereinigung
after ww2 germany issued a program of restructuring vineyards creating acess roads and small fragmented vineyards to help working and reduce vicitultural costs (without it many vineyards would be abandoned)
what style dominates germany market
bulk wines
fine wine is growing
germany overall climate
cool continental
climatic influences of germany
- high latitude
- river rhine and its tributaries
- steep slopes
- mountains ranges (Taunus, Haardt)
latitude location of germany vineyards
49-50 some of the most northenly in the world
river rhine and tributaries effectd
radiate heat (moderate temperature and lenghten growing season)
mosel slopes can reach what gradients
70%
mountain ranges influences in germany
shelter from cold winds and heavy rains
general altitude in germany
below 200
main climatic problems in germany
- cold winters
- spring frost
- rainfall in summer (fungal diseases)
what helps fighting spring frost in germany
river rhine influence in mitigating the climate
average rainfall in germany
500/800mm (mostly in summer)
one german ambaugebite has a different climate. which one?
baden (closer to swiss border) drier, and warmer
main types of soils in germany
- dark slate (mosel)
- calcareous (baden, pfalz, rheinessen)
- heavy clay (franken)
advantages of dark slate in mosel
retains heat and releases it during nighttime
calcareous soils are helping producing what wine?
pinot noir
pinot blanc
chardonnay
heavy clay helps what varieties?
silvaner
grauburgunder (pinot gris)
main problem of slopes in germany
erosion needs costant winch (cost increase)
maximum yields for Deutscher Wein, Land Wein and Qualitatswein
Deutscher Wein 150hl/ha
Land Wein 150hl/ha
Qualitatswein 105hl/ha (VDP producers goes way lower)
incredibly high
average annual production in germany hL
9 million hl
what has helped germany grape growing?
- climate change
- vineyard management techniques
vineyard management development in germany examples
- clonal selection (improved fruit ripeness)
- canopy management (improve sun exposure and air circulation)
- summer pruning
- green harvesting
- hand harvesting
vine training in germany
vines were historically staked with cane at the top (labour intensive)
now :
1. double replacement cane with vsp trellissing
2. cane arched to trellis (improve sap circulation, increase number of viable buds and increase yields)
organic/biodynamic viticulture in germany
9% not particularly suited for the climate, only way to spray properly is via helicopter (goes into neighbouring vineyards)
general labour cost in handling vineyards (slopes vs flat land)
in both case high
slopes - terraces handling, mechanisation is not possible (except certan small caterpillar)
flat sites - higher compared to other countries, german laws on styles (e.g. beerenauslese) requires hand harvesting and many producers still decide to do so, only large scale producers for inexpensive machanise
do you need to state grape variety on german labels
no, but they often are by producer’s choice
what grapes are getting more plantings recently?
red varietals are rising up - spatburgunder and dornfelder
whites such as grauburgunder, weissburgunder, and chardonnay
also some international cab sauv, merlot, sauv blanc
riesling: main pro and con (budding ripening)
pro: late budding with thick wood (frost resistant)
cons: late ripening (needs lots of sun exposure and dry autumn)
why riesling plantings went down in the 70s?
late ripening needs a lot of sun many switched to german crosses that could ripen easily
why riesling came back up in plantings recently?
improved vineyard management and rising temperatures assures a more steady and constant ripening
riesling % plantings
23% of all germany
alternative name for muller thurgau in germany
rivaner
main features of muller thurgau
earlier ripening produces high yields
muller thurgau blends were called
liebfraumilch famous wine that made plantings of muller rise up in the 70/80s (was the most planted varietal)
muller thurgau style
medium acidity simple floral and fruity early drinking
spatburgunder general style in germany
better quality (canopy, clones, harvesting dates) whole bunch often use oak but less new
most planted black variety in germany?
spatburgunder then dornfelder
is dornfelder a german cross?
yes
dornfelder two main styles
- easy drinking, fruity (cherry, blackberry), little residual sugar
- complex, worth ageing, lower yields, deep colour, high acidity, fruity and floral with oak ageing
silvaner styles
- easy drinking, medium acidity, simple, inexpensive
- Franken - dry, medium body with medium + acidity, earthy character
plantings of silvaner
halved since 1980s now taken over by Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder especially in Pfalz, RHeinessen and Baden
grauburgunder favourite soils
heavy soils
grauburgunder style
medium acidity stone/tropical fruit medium to full body also sweeter styles
sweeter styles of grauburgunder are called
rulander
weissburgunder style
medium + acidity citrus/stone fruit aromas
when chardonnay was introduced in germany
1990, still low plantings
other grapes you can find in germany
portugieser
schwarzriesling (p meunier)
trollinger (schiava)
lemberger (blaufrankisch)
for simple inexpensive wines in Wurtenberg
some high quality from Lenberger
what are german crosses
varieties created by various german wine institutes to cope with cool climate
why we don’t know much about all the german crosses?
most examples had high sugar but really low acidity so they were just used for inexpensive blends (liebfraumilch)
best german crosses
- scheurebe - full body with intense aromas of grapefruit and peach, medium acidity but ageworthy wines
- kerner - high acidity, floral, fruity, can produce pratikat level of complexity
- dornfelder
why german crosses went out of fashion?
because technology allowed riesling to ripen better
winemaking in germany features
traditional vs experimental
- more traditional, less interventionist (ambient yeast, no filtration/fining)
- experimentations (lees/oak in grauburgunder and weissburgunder and extreme cases riesling)
is enrichment permitted
yes is a common practice but not permitted in pradikatswein
enrichment EU laws for germany
germany is EU Zone A up to 3% Baden is Zone B up to 2%
de acidification and acidification
all permitted in coldest and hottest year mainly used for high volume inexpensive wines
germany’s own type of oak
- Fuder - used in mosel 1000L
- Stuck - oval shaped 1200l used along the rhine historically used for fermenting and maturing (some premium riesling producers still uses this technique)
most common vessel used in germany and why
stainless steel (especially in inexpensive wines)
- temperature control
- easy cleaning
- no oxygen
- no flavour added - maintain primary aromas
is new oak used in germany?
rarely mostly for red wines, grauburgunder, weissburgunder and chardonnay
how does sugar gets in the final wine in germany? 3 options
- sussreserve
- rcgm
- naturally
sussreserve use in the 60/70s
heavily used as all wines were fermented dry and then sussreserve was used
was sussreserve used at pradikat levels in 60/70s?
yes
what is sussreserve
unfermented or partially fermented grape must must be produced from grapes of the same region and same quality of the final wine is common for sussreserve to come from the same must
how can you make sussreserve?
small proportion of must pre fermentation is taken than clarified, chilled and protected under SO2 so it remains fresh
% and sussreserve in final wine
might lower the content as there is no alcohol to it just sugar
sussreserve main problem
makes unbalanced wines
common alternative to sussreserve used today
stopping fermentation by adding so2 racking filtering
RCGM sweetener can be used?
yes but only in Deutscher Wein
what grapes have natural high sugars?
ones destined to beerenausles, eiswein trockenbeerenauslese
BA, Eiswein, TBA fermentation
really slow it will stop naturally by too much sugar (and leaving low alcohol)
BA, Eiswein, TCA general alcohol levels in final wine
between 5.5 and 8%
are sweet wines in germany still popular?
not as much, most styles are now dry also in mosel
why sweetness was important back in the day in germany
masked high acidity masked bitterness from underripe grapes changed when technology and climate brought riesling to full ripeness
general winemaking for red wines in germany
inexpensive = thermovinifivator (rapid extraction colour and flavours), fermented off the skins (low tannins)
higher quality = cold soaking, whole bunch, oak maturation
Home sales in germany %
11% domestic sales
general winemaking for rose wines in germany
youthful fruity inexpensive, cool temp ferment ins tainless steel small high price oaked
how wines are classified in germany
according to must weight at harvest
4 quality levels in germany
- deutscher wein
- landwein
- qualitaswein
- pradikatswein
deutscher wine is also known as
tafelwein
deutscher wine and landwein account for how much of the production today
annualy 4%
where the grapes of deutscher wine are coming from?
no geografical indication, they can come from everywhere in germany
alcohol levels for deutscher wein
between 8.5 and 15% (any style is permitted)
what is landwein?
PGI equivalent of Germany
main rules of Landwein
- 85% grapes are coming from the landwein region named on the label
- alcohol between 8.5 and 15%
- styles admitted are trocken or halbtrocken (few more sweeter stles might be allowed)
qualitaswein rules
- grapes are coming from one of the 13 region, name must appear on the label
- all styles allowed
- min alcohol is 7%
- enrichment is permitted
what wines do you get in the qualitaswein category
- majority everyday drinking, high volume
- some top quality from VDP producers that prefers to keep pratikatswein only on sweet wines and have trocken in qualitaswein
what is amtliche prufungsnummer (AP)?
10 to 12 digit indicating where and when a qualitaswein passed a tasting and lab analysis, vineyard location and bottle lot number
pradikatswein major rules
- must come from one of te 40 recognised bereich, the name can or cannot be on the label (mostly not), the name of the anbaugebiete needs to be all the times
- grapes have high must weight, enrichment is not allowed
- any grape variety is allowed, mainly riesling
what is a bereich?
smaller area inside a specific anbaugebiete
how much pradikatswein is producer?
half the quantity of qualitaswein
what pradikat means
distinction
seix levels of pradikat
kabinett spatlese ausles beerenauslese (BA) eiswein trockenberenauslese (TBA)
kabinett style
light body, high acid alcohol from 7% (residual medium sweet) to 12 (dry) citrus, green fruit
when spatlese grapes are picked?
two weeks after kabinett
spatlese style and rules
ripe tropical/stone fruit (more concentration) full body alcohol min 7% dry to medium sweet
auslese harvesting
mostly done by hand but not mandatory some producer use mechanisation and then sort by hand at the winery
auslese character
honey notes (might have botrytis) dry to sweet 7% min abv
how can you understand the style of an auslese?
there are usually extra terms on the label
ba is made from what grapes?
individually selected berries (hand harvesting is mandatory)
style of ba
always sweet, no mandatory botrytis but it is there most times
min % for BA, Icewine and TBA
5.50%
BA yields
extremely low
eiswein became a category in
1982
must weight of eiswein
same as BA
harvest of eiswein
november (if temp are ok) till february
temperature for the grapes to freeze
-7
is artifical freezing allowed in eiswein in germany
no, grapes needs to be pressed while naturally are still frozen
problems of eiswein
- if rot is present bad flavours are amplified (needs healthy grapes)
- by waiting for the grapes to freeze winemakers might lose a lot of crop to diseases and predators (plastic sheeting to protect grapes)
eiswein style
high acidity, concentrated peach and grapefruit, premiu price
tba %
doesn’t usually reach more than 8%
tba botrytis is mandatory
yes, is the only way to reach those required sugars
acidity in tba
still high
main problem of auslese, spatlese, kabinett and qualitaswein
a consumer cannot tell if the wine is dry or sweet
EU labeling terms to help understanding residual sugar
- trocken (means dry)
- labtrocken (off dry)
- lieblich (medium, medium-sweet)
- suss (sweet)
trocken max g/l
4g/l, 9g/l when residual sugar does not exceed total acidity by more than 2g/l e.g. Riesling
halbtrocken max g/l
4-12g/l, 18g/l when residual sugar does not exceed total acidity by more than 10g/l
lieblich max residual sugar g/l
12-45g/l
suss max residual sugar gl
more than 45g/l
problems of EU labeling terms for sweetness
indicates only residual sugar and not how sweet the wine tastes e.g. a medium acidity muller will taste sweeter than a riesling with the same residual sugar
is trocken a popular category?
mostly in warmer region e.g. baden generally under 50% of the wines in germany are trocken
is halbtrocken popular?
in decline producers prefers to use the term feinherb (means fine dry) that actually as not law definition and extend to slightly higher sugar levels than halbtrocken
alternative ways for indicating sweetness for auslese
- goldkapsel (gold capsule) - indicates wines affected by botrytis
- shorter capsules - indicates higher concentration
german law of 1971 divided land into:
- bereiche (districts)
- grosslagen (bigger vineyards that collects several einzellagen, from 600 to 1800ha, 167 registered)
- einzellagen (single vineyards, average 38ha - 1658 registered)
einzellage/grosslage in the labels
- only used on qualitatswein and pradikatswein
- must precede by the name of the village where they are located (e.g. Goldtropfchen in Piersport will be called Piesporter Goldtropfchen)
- if the vineyard is famous the village can be taken off
main problems of einzellage/grosslage
- difficult for consumers to know quality level of a wine (e.g. is difficult to understand between the finest einzellage and the biggest grosslage)
- in the area of Ahr, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinessen the names can now be registered added to the bereich
what is liebfraumilch and laws
medium dry white wine qualitatswein level min 18g/L 70% riesling, silvaner, muller thurgau (the latter dominates the blend) was famous in the 80s (most of the exports) now decline
vdp was founded in which year and for what reason
1910 to promote wines without must enrichment (called naturweine)
hw much is the annual production under vdp label
3%
vdp export
under a quarter of the total
vdp main laws
- lower maximum yield
- higher minimum must weight
- only local varietals
- encourage sustainable viticulture
most popular style of wines from vdp
dry even bottles with a bit of residual are labeled as qualitaswein trocken
vdp 4 categories
- gutswein
- orstwein
- erste lage
- grosse lage
vdp gutswein and maximum yield
regional wines, 75hl/ha
vdp orstwein and maximum yields
village wines, 75hl/ha
vdp erste lage laws and maximum yields
1er cru level
- 60hl/ha
- hand harvesting
- must weight needs to be at spatlese level
- village and vineyard name always present
vdp grosse lage laws
- only best parces of best vineyards demarcated by local associations
- 50hl/ha
- restricted grapes (riesling in all regions, in ahr only botrytis and spat in all apart from mosel and nahe)
- dry releases 1rst september after harvest (reds needs 12 months oak ageing) if sweeter until 1rst may
- if dry can have the GG label
- only vineyard name on the label and not the village
what is erstes gewachs?
best sites in rheingau under the rheingau charta
what is the rheingau charta?
1984 to promote dry wines from rheingau
estes gewachs laws
- dry
- hand harvested
- only riesling or spatburgunder
- low yield vineyard
- must weight is spatlese level
erstes gewachs can use gg terms?
yes as the charta joined vdp in 99
what changed in the january 2021 revision of the wines of germany?
now qualitatswein has a geographic hierarchy
- anbaugebiet - winegrowing area (13 regions)
- region (replaces bereich and grosslage)
- ortwein (village, name on label)
- einzellage - single vineyard (dry or sweet, kabinett quality)
what are erstes gewachs and grosses gewachs?
are two further categories inside the einzellage single vineyard system
erstes gewachs and grosses gewachs have what laws in common?
- single vineyard, or parcel inside a single vineyard
- single varietal (85% min can be blended with approval varieties within a region)
- dry wines only (within trocken rules)
harvesting in erstes and grosses gewachs
erstes - picked selectively (both hand and machine)
grosses - hand picking
yields of erstes and grosses gewachs
erstes - 60hl/ha/70hl/ha on slopes, 11% natural alcohol
grosses - 50hl/ha, 12% natural alcohol
release date erstes and grosses gewachs
erstes - 1rst march following harvest
grosses - 1rst september white, 1rst march if red
how a wine can be tested for erstes and grosses gewachs
estes - panel only if ordered by regional body
grosses - tasting commission is mandatory
80% of germany’s production comes from what anbaugebiete(s)?
rheinhessen pfalz baden wurttemberg
germany’s smallest regions
saale-unstrut
sachsen
rheinhessen general production
under 1/4 of whole production largest in terms of production and yields
general climate of rheinhessen
warm/dry
rheinhessen soils
warm, fertile valley floors (bulk, high production)
main climatic influence in rheinhessen
sheltering made by mountains ranges (that’s why its warm and dry) most famous are hunsruck and taunus
main grapes of rheinhessen
white: riesling, muller (also silvaner, grau and weiss) red: dornfelder is twice spatburgunder
best quality areas in rheinhessen
rheinterrasse
wonnegau
what style of wine was born in rheinhessen and in which specific area
liebfraumilch in the area of worms
rheinterrasse climatic features
- east facing slopes (morning sun)
- river rhine (moderate influence, warmer autumns)
ripe lemon and peach
two best vineyards of rheinterrasse and soils
- roter hang
- nackenheim rotliegenden soils (iron rich red slate/clay/sandstone)
pfalz climatic influences
warmer sites
- west - haardt mountains (rain shadow effect) is a continuantion of the vosges
- east - river rhine (river only on a side not centering the region)
grapes in pfalz
white 65%: riesling (muller, grau, weiss) red: dornfelder and spat
how big is pfalz in terms of production
little bit less than rheinhessen so still quite big
two most renowned vineyards area in pfalz
- mittelhaardt
- sudliche weinstrasse
mittelhaardt location
around bad durkheim, wachenheim, forst, deidesheim, rupperstberg
mittelhaardt lcation
foothills of the haardt muntains south-east facing slopes, protect from the winds
mittelhaardt soils
limestone sandostone basalt clay many winemakers experiment with different soils and blend
sudliche weinstrasse was famous for what kind of wines?
inexpensive now small growers are bringing up quality sites
sudliche weinstrasse soils
sandstone
baden climate and influences
warmest, sunniest region of germany
- vosges rain shadow effect
- river rhine moderating influence
most planted grape in baden
spatburgunder
white or red: who is more planted in baden?
whites: muller thurgau second most planted also grau, weiss and chardonnay
riesling plantings in baden
really small quantities, fuller body all pradikat level
who produces most of baden’s wine?
co-ops 75% most famous one is badischer winzerkeller
2 main macroareas/climates of baden
- hotter areas - Kaiserstuhl - extinc vulcano, south facing slopes (high alcohol, full body)
- coldest areas - ortanau, tuniberg, breisgau bereich area - calcareous soils (more acidity delicate)
wurttemberg wine styles
inexpensive fruity light red wines some high quality more structured
main grapes in wurttemberg
68% red trollinger, lemberger, schwarzriesling for whites is mostly riesling
biggest producer of wurttemberg
coop moglingen
quality sites of wurttemberg
steep terraced vineyards above the river nectar and tributaries
mosel plantings
90% white 60% riesling
mosel most important thing and why
site selection most northerly region
two main factors influencing site selection in mosel
- aspect (south facing slopes, sun exposure and sunshine reflection from the river)
- dark coloured slate (radiates heat)
where the best vineyards are located in mosel?
middle mosel
mosel is divided into?
upper mosel middle mosel lower mosel
best vineyards in mosel
brauneberg (juffer, juffer sonnenuhr)
erden (treppchen, pralat)
graach (himmelreich, domprobst)
urzig (wurzgarten)
wehlen (sonnenuhr)
bernkastel (doctor)
piesport (goldtropfchen)
can you produce eiswein every year in the mosel
it is technically cold enough to do it every year
slate colour in mosel
grey, blue, brown, red differences, producers are now exploring and blending the results
why is expensive making wine in mosel?
- steep sites are labour intensive (more cost for labour)
- low yields are requested for BA/TBA plus multiplie passages
are there flat lands in mosel for inexpensive wine production?
yes around piesport mostly muller thurgau for merchant houses/co-ops
biggest producer in mosel
20% is made by moselland co-op in bernkastel
saar/ruwer river area of mosel influences
south-east/west aspect sheltered by the valleys near te two rivers higher altitude (lower temperatures) = high acidity
best vineyard in the saar-ruwer area
scharzofberg in saar
franken climate
continental (located further east) shorter growing season with high risk of spring frost
franken river’s name
Main + tributaries
most planted varieties in franken
mostly white: muller thurgau then silvaner reds: some spatburgunder
where spatuburgunder grows in franken?
on steep terraces sandstone soil
most famous spatuburgunder producer in franken
rudolf furst
name of the historical bottle of franken
bocksbeutel
silvaner budding ripening cycle
early early
where silvaner mainly grows
in the south east facing slopes of chalk soils in wurzburg
aromas of silvaner
full body floral/wet stones
nahe main climatic features
hunsruck mountains river nahe large area with small production
how nahe rieslings differs from the ones in mosel?
lower acidity, riper fruit slightly warmer
nahe most planted grapes
white mainly 3/4: riesling (30%) then muller thurgau reds: dornfelder, little spat
nahe best vineyards (location, climate, soils)
- east of the region, south facing banks of the river nahe warmest conditions plus moderating from nahe + rhine river slate and sandstone
- west of the region is colder, harvest 2 weeks later
nahe best producers
donnhof emrich schnleber
nahe inexpensive area of production
gentle slopes, deeper and more fertile soils muller, grau and weiss
rheingau climate and influences
- taunus mountain (protects from arrival of cold winds) - more full body
- river Main and Rhine (more wider so influence reduce frost and increase humidity for noble rot)
main focus of production in rheingau
quality
how can rheingau achieve better quality wines?
lower yields than average in germany
main style of wines in rheingau
mostly dry small sweet high quality production
best vineyard in rheingau location
slopes (mid-slope for dry as humidity is lower, no fungal, but still has river moderating influences) around the villages of rudesheim, geisenheim, johannisberg, hattenheim, erbach
soils in rheingau
east - sand, loam, loess
west - sandstone, slate
main platings of rheingau
- 86% white (78% riesling) 2. spatburgunder
where is spatburgunder grown in rheingau?
west south west facing slopes
what schloss mean
indicates in rheingau a castle or a manor
historical producers of rheingau
schloss johannisberg
schloss vollrads
hessische staatweinguter
kloster eberbach co-op
ahr influences on climate and soils
most northernly river ahr flows into a sheltered valley
steep southfacing slopes
dark slate (heat retaining) and greywacke (dark sandstone)
most planted grape in ahr
black 83% mostly spatburgunder
traditional wine style in ahr and how it is now
reds with residual sugar now high tannins pinot with oak spices dry
most important producer in ahr
co-op mayschoss (3/4 of production)
a grower in germany usually owns around
3ha
is being a growner sustainable in germany?
not much, costs of land and managing it is unsustainable more land is planted but growers went down by 20% (so the land is just flat for bulk)
how germany is trying to bring young people to viticolture?
the german wine institute initiated generation riesling in 2005 to support economically under 35 winemakers
estate general size in germany
can be big 100ha or small 5ha mostly were ancient founded by the church of charitable organisations
most growers are selling to?
merchant houses
what is weinkellerei?
merchant houses
are co-op important in germany?
one of the first country to start co-ops 30% vineyard area is then vinified by co-ops
change in co-ops in germany
they are going down slowly replaced by estate but some are changing towards high quality eg Badischer Winzekeller in Baden launched a high quality line
domestic market of german wines
- germany is a beer country
- wine is tho still high popular, needs to import wine from abroad to satisfy internal demand
- hard to understand because has shifted to different tastes over the years
german wine export
has fallen because or a lower demand of bulk wines and new world competition higher costs - also shipping cost and augment of bottled export
most famous export market for germany
usa, netherland, uk ,norway, sweden (less here because bulk is not as famous as before)
promotional body for german wines name
deutsches weininstitut most famous for the riesling week campaign in 13 countries