Burgundy Flashcards
main plantings for yonne and cote d’or
yonne 80% chardonnay
cote d’or 60% pinot noir
river of chablis
serein
market swings of chablis
- early 1900, famous for proximity to paris
- philloxera and powdery mildew problems
- paris railway helped cheaper wines to get transported
- rural depopolation after ww1
- 1945 frost
- back in demand in the last few decades
chablis climate
cool continental (cooler than cote d’or) cold winter and warm summers with considerable vintage variation (northern location)
average annual rainfall of chablis
670mm
rain problems in chablis
spread throughout the year, moist climate brings 1. fungal diseases 2. harvest problems (and rot)
soils of chablis
kimmeridgian soil (limestone and clay with fossilised seashells)
portlandian soil (hard limestone with less clay)
what is reducing yields in chablis?
- fungal 2. hail storms 3. spring frost
remedies for spring frost in chablis
- smudge pots (smoky, causes air pollution, requires staff)
- sprinklers (‘aspersion’) most popular option, expensive (also for staff and mantainance, so mostly only for top domaines/vineyards)
- pruning choices: later pruning for later bud-burst, reducing the chance of damage to the new buds from early spring frosts.
most used rootstocks and reasons
- 41B (vinifera x berlandieri), tolerate limestone soils with high pH
- 420A (riparia x berlandieri), low vigour, tolerance to high pH soils
training system used in chablis
double guyot replacement cane if one cane falls the other will survive
harvest in chablis
mostly machine picked hand picked only when is too steep for mechanisation
4 appellation of chablis
petite chablis chablis chablis 1er cru chablis grand cru
soils of petite chablis
potlandian soils
where are petit chablis and chablis vineyard located
petit chablis - higher elevation with cooler climates
chablis large area of kimmeridgian
they are both various aspects (mostly north facing)
gentle slope or flat land
how many 1er cru in chablis
40
1er cru chablis vineyard location
south/south east facing slopes of kimmeridgian soil
climat vs lieu dit
climat - vineyard name fixed in AOC rules)
lieu dit - name of a piece of land in the general register)
climat vs lieu dit labeling in chablis 1er cru
can use both the climat or the lieu dit after the 1er cru note
how many grand cru in chablis
1 with 7 lieu dits
chablis grand cru soils
kimmeridgian with crumbly marl and high clay content good drainage, water retention
chablis grand cru location
next to the village, south-west slope right bank of the river serein
chablis grand cru climatic feature
shelter from winds from the north thanks to a belt of trees
where in the slope are grand cru and 1er cru vineyards located
mid slope
advantages of mid slope plantings
- drainage
- frost protection
- better light interception (not too much, not too low)
chablis maximum yield
petit chablis 60 hL/ha chablis 60 hL/ha 1er cru 58hL/ha grand cru 54 hL/ha
is chaptalisation allowed in chablis?
yes and used constantly (not in warmer years)
main fermentation vessels
stainless steel concrete oak (mostly neutral)
winemaking techniques in chablis
mlf to soften acidity lees ageing to enhance texture
oak controversy in chablis and producers
depends on winemaker view but generally chablis should not smell of oak but in 1er cru and grand cru many uses it new oak (william fevre) old oak (dauvissat, raveneau) stainless steel/concrete (jean marc brocard)
negociants vs domaines in chablis
distinction is breaking down
negociants own land domaines have a negoce business
one third of production in chablis is vinified by
la chablissienne
producer associations in chablis
- le syndicat de defence de l’appellation de chablis (1993 by william fevre) 2. union de grand cru de chablis
le syndicat de defence de l’appellation de chablis main goal
combate fraud addressing environmental issues
union des grand crus de chablis main goal
voluntary association to promote quality (only limited to grand cru owners) sustainabl viticulture and hand picking mandatory
what drivers sales in chablis
both domaine name and appellation ex raveneau and dauvissat have premium prices for village wines
chablis export
2/3 are exported UK, USA, Japan, Sweden, Canada
climate of Cote d’Or, Chalonnaise and Maconnais
moderate continental Maconnais: drier and warmer 500km from the Mediterranean cold winters warm short summers (perfect for early ripening)
influences in Cote d’Or, Chalonnaise and Macconaise
Morvan Hills (in the west provide protection from rainfall)
annual rainfall level in Cote d’Or, Chalonnaise and Maconnaise
700mm
factors influencing quality of individual sites in Burgundy
aspect altituide degree of slope soil
main problems in Burgundy
cold weather frost hail eccessive rain drought
main problem of cold weather in Burgundy
under-ripe tannins in Pinot Noir
most problematic frost and result
spring frost reduce yields if they occur after budburst
damages of hails and periods
- early growth (april-may) can reduce yields or total loss of the crop
- later in the season fruit damage, grey rot risk
best techniques to get rid of hail or its results
- sorting table - to exclude damaged berries (hail is highly localized)
- hail netting
- thunderclouds with silver iodide to induce precipitation
hail netting in Burgundy
was not permitted because of shading permitted from June 2018 (limited use)
rain problems and timing
- flowering, fruit set - can disrupt, lower yields, and uneven ripening
- growing season - fungal disease
- before harvest - dilution (from water uptake), rot
drought stress main problems in Burgundy
berries shrivel and shut down (ripening halt)
how to combat drought in Burgundy
irrigation is not permitted plant in high clay content soils (bette water stress as water-retaining soils)
most critical factors determining style and quality of the wines of the Cote d’Or
aspect elevation
elevation of the cote d’or
200 to 400 metres
aspects in cote d’or
hills oriented north/south side valleys east-west main ridge is basically south east facing
location of best sites
south east facing middle slope
benefits of middle slope vineyard
- well draining shallow soils
- sunlight interception
- frost protection
- better ripening potential
disadvantages of top of the slope vineyards in the cote d’or
very poor, thin soils (vine cannot thrive as there’s not much soil) exposure to cooling winds
disadvantages of bottom of the slope vineyards in the cote d’or
- deeper soils (poorer drainage, more clay = more fertility = more shading = less ripeness)
- vulnerable to frost
coolest sites production in the cote d’or
aligote cremant de bourgogne
Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnaise best site locations for aspects
chalonnaise: bouzeron, rully (south-east)
maconnaise: pouilli fuisse (south)
general soils of burgundy
mix of limestone and clay
soils cote de nuits vs cote de beaune
nuits: more limestone
beaune: more clay, deeper soils
main soils problem in cote d’or
different depth of soil above the bedrock due to erosion (especially in lower vineyards in the slopes) e.g. Clos Vougeot
where is aligote mainly grown?
bouzeron (cote chalonnaise)
chardonnay ripening and budding state
buds early ripen early
chardonnay problems
spring frost (buds early) grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage, grapevine yellows
best soil for chardonnay
limestone clay
chardonnay main feature
can produce high yields without loss of quality
challenge of growing chardonnay in burgundy good vintages
controlling excessive yield and shading from vigour (will reduce fruit quality)
budding and ripening of Pinot Noir
buds early ripens early
main quality problem of Pinot Noir
yields must be limited to produce quality wines
pest diseases and others on pinot noir
spring frost (buds early) millerandage, downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot, fan leaf, leafroll virus
pinot noir in warm climates
ripens too fast reduce aroma intensity berries shrivel suffer from sunburn
main goal in burgundy with pinot noir
making sure the fruit is ripen to have enough colour tannins and flavour
main clones of pinot noir
Dijon families (developed in the university of burgundy in dijon)
main points in selecting a clone of pinot noir?
yields diseases tolerance speed of ripening fruit characteristics
mass selection in burgundy
some producers will decide to plant a vineyard with different type of clones
fanleaf
virus brought by nematodes distorted leaves in a fan shape, turn yellow in patches shoot with distorted nodes and canes yields will fall and eventually stop only cure is destruction or removal of infected material replant with nematods resistant roots
leafroll
series of viruses, most damage brought by the mealy bug rolling of the leaves, turne bronze then red reduce yields as grapes will take longer to ripen eventually not reaching enough sugars replant vineyard
grapevine yellows alternative name
flavescence doree
grapevine yellows
phytoplasma organism spread by sap-feeding insects or infected material in grafting process curling leaves turn yellow ripening and yields are affected keeping vectors under control and eliminate plantes (like grass and weeds) that they are feeding on
millerandage
some flowers remain un-pollinated or forming very small berries with no seeds caused by adverse weather during flowering
training techniques in burgundy
- cordon 2. VSP (guyot/replacement cane pruning) 3. poussard-guyot (cane pruning)
training style of cordon training in burgundy
cordon du royat (find picture)
cordon training main features in burgundy
- high proportion of old wood (might induce some trunk diseases) 2. limits vigour/yield
possard guyot system definition
maintains the same sap route from one year to the next with pruning wounds only on the upper cordon part
advantages of poussard-guyot
aids canopy management reduce trunk diseases but requires skilled workers
general density in burgundy
8-10000 vines per ha
why some growers tend to plan a lot of vines per ha?
enhance root competition smaller grapes formation (better quality)
two main winter pruning techniques to manage/reduce yields
debudding green harvesting
advantages and disadvantages of debudding
good vine balance
can reduce yields (bette quality)
can create huge problems as frost, hail fungal can reduce the crops or completely going to 0
advantages and disadvantages of green harvesting
growers asses size, shape and position in the vine
take in account adverse weather
changes in vine development (excessive growth brings diluted grapes)
maximum yields in burgundy
- regional: 69 hL/ha (red) - 75 hL/ha (white)
- village: 40/45 hL/ha (red) - 45/47 hL/ha (white)
- grand cru: 35 hL/ha (red) - 40 hL/ha (white)
main problem of organic growing in burgundy
organic rules required a specific area surface to work if a producer is too small it needs his neighbours to work in the same way
main diseases in burgundy
grape moths esca fungal grapevine yellows
remedy to stop grape moths in burgundy
pheromone capsules
fungal main remedies in burgundy
canopy management spraying
main harvesting problem in burgundy
storms during harvest can dilute and damage the fruit workforce to pick by hand is a major consideration
timings in harvesting in burgundy
early - preserve acidity but fruit might not be ripe late - softer wine but risk of weather
how do you pick in burgundy?
by hand mainly
why acidification in white wines is less necessary now in burgundy?
warmer growing seasons better canopy management
when you use acidification in whites in burgundy
- when must doesn’t have enough sugar to reach min % 2. desired style (more alcohol = more body)
EU acidification limits
75
main reason of using a sorting table
remove diseased, damaged and unrerripe fruit
whole bunch pressing in white wine in burgundy main aim
stems aids must drainage
why you press immediately a white wine in burgundy
avoid skin contact to avoid tannins extraction chardonnay is a non aromatic varietal so no flavors added by maceration
main clarification technique for high quality white burgundy
sedimentation levels of solids left depends on winemaker’s style
main clarification technique for lower quality white burgundy
hyperoxidation
advantages of hyperoxidation
final wine is less prone to oxidation reduce risk of premox / premature oxidation
what is premox and when it was first found
wines is showing advanced flavor and color started in 2000 while assesing 1996 and onwards vintages
causes of premature oxidation
- vineyard practices (higher yields, different chemical compositon of grapes)
- warmer vintages
- late harvesting
- preumatic presses use (over clean must)
- over zealous batonnage
- low SO2 at bottling
- corks’ quality and tratments
why ambient yeasts are used in white wine production in burgundy?
encourage terroir expression can monitor fermentation and intervene (ex warming up the ferment)
vats for inexpensive white burgundy
stainless steel concrete
aims of stainless steel use in white burgundy
reserve primary fruit avoid banana flavors of cooler temperatures
stainless steel fermentation temperature in white burgundy
16-18C
ageing of inexpensive white burgundies
stainless concrete old oak barrels (less oaky flavors)
aims of barrell fermentation
creamier/denser style
general ageing of premium white burgundy
8-12mos in oak barrels and on fine lees
percentage of new oak barrels in white burgundy
50-100 grand cru 30-50 village 20-25 village
barrel types in burgundy
228lt (piece) 500-600lt
why some winemakers use 500-600lt barrels in white burgundy
lower surface to volume ration less oak flavors and oxidation
why winemakers are using batonnage in white burgundy
add creamy texture reduce reductive flavors
MLF in white burgundy
carried in netral vessel or oak can be blocked if a fresher style is required
is filtering common in white burgundy winemaking?
yes cloudiness is easier to spot in white wines and consumers don’t like it
yeast used in red winemaking
ambient
whole bunch fermentation story
was common before the destemmer henri jayer made it popular in the ‘80
advantages of whole bunch fermentation in red winemaking in burgundy
aid must oxigenation add perfume freshness and fine tannins
disadvantages of whole bunch fermentation in red winemaking in burgundy
unripe stems brings green unripe tannins lower acidity in warmer vintages
aim of cold soaking in red winemaking in burgundy
extract colour (Pinot Noir has low anthocyanins)
for how long cold soaking takes places in red winemaking in burgundy
from few hours to few days
cap management techniques used in red burgundy
pigeage (punching down) remontage (pumping over) most producers are mixing the two techniques
cap management techniques aims in red burgundy winemaking
extraction from skin (tannins, flavours, colour) avoid acetic acid, reduction and reductive sulfur compound (pinot is prone to reduction) regulate temperature
normal temperature of fermentation in red burgundy
30C
post fermentation maceration in red burgundy
depends on fruit ripeness and style 2-3 weeks for more concentrate structured wines
presses used in red winemaking
horizontal pneumatic press vertical basked press
how must fractions works in red burgundy
free run and press separated might be blended later
what happens after pressing in red burgundy
the wines are racked into oak barrels
premium ageing
228lt piace 12-20mos
new oak percentage in red burgundy
higher percentage of new oak in grand and 1er every kind of style is used from no oak to 100%
ageing in less expensive red burgundy
228lt piace for less than 12 mos
MLF in red burgundy
sponteneous spring following harvest
filtering in mid priced red burgundy
lightly fined and filtered
filtering in high quality red burgundies
in certain cases may not be filtered
who started the burgundy classification
the monks but the version we used today was finalised in the 1930s
the burgundy classification is based on…
soils aspect microclimate
most important factor connecting the inheritance laws with quality
as many producers holds the same plot and the same plot can be sometimes quite big quality is interconnected with the ability of the winemaker
what the classification reflects?
location of the vineyard and slope position
burgundy production in %
52% regional 47% - village/1er cru 1% grand cru
how many appellation there are in burgundy
84 7 regional 44 village/1er 33 grand cru
regional AOP burgundy add-ons
can add generic large location (hautes cote des beaune) can add village name in Macon (e.g. Macon Verze) a new generic Bourgogne Cotes de Beaune AOC was introduced in 2017
how many 1er cru there are in burgundy
640
what it means 1er cru with no vineyard indication on the label?
is a blend of various 1er cru
is 1er cru an AOP right status?
no is an additional geographic indication related to a village
grand cru difference in sizes
vougeot 50ha musigny 10ha la romanee 0.84ha
vougeot style
is different from middle top slope (steeper, poorer soils) from the bottom (flatter richest soils)
is the name of the village appearing in grand cru labes?
it doesnt
grand cru AOP add-ons
can add a climate name (e.g. Corton Les Bressandes)
generic bourgogne aop influences
richer soils (encourage vine vigour) lack of protection from adverse weather flat land slight higer altitude poorer sunlight interception
generic Bourgogne AOP style
less concentrated generally
generic Bourgogne AOP main problem
might not ripen in cooler vintages
what physically divides generic appellation from village appellation
road D974 Dijon Beaune
where are village level vineyards located
lower part of the slope
soils style of village burgundy
richer and less well drained soils (fruit doesn’t achieve grand,1er cru ripeness)
where are the 1er cru vineyards located?
they surrounds grand crus
grand crus vineyards influences
mid slope poor, shallow soils good drainage protection from prevailing weather sunlight interception
grand cru wines style
can achieve full ripeness in cool years concentrated, balanced and great lenght (needs a skilled winemaker)
biggest village in the cote de nuits
gevrey chambertin
morey st denis grand crus
clos de tart clos de la roche
cote de nuits villages north to south
marsannay fixin gevrey chambertin morey st denis chambolle musigny vougeot flagey echezeaux vosne romanee nuits st georges
which village produce white wines in the cote de nuits
marsannay fixin morey st denis vougeot nuits st georges
chambolle musigny grand cru
bonnes mares musigny
nuits st georges important 1er crus
les saint georges les vaucrains
cote de beaune most important villages north to south
aloxe corton pernand vergelesses ladoix serrigny beaune pommard volnay maursault chassagne montrachet puligny montrachet saint aubin
red wines only villages in the cote de beaune
pommard volnay
hill of corton two main grand crus
corton charlemagne (mainly white) corton (mostly red)
best 1er crus of beaune
le clos des mouches les greves
pommard most famous 1er crus
les rugiens clos des epeneaux
meursault famous 1er crus
perrieres genevrieres
puligny most famous grand crus
le montrachet batard montrachet
saint aubin 1er crus
sur le sentier du cloud en remilly
cote de beaunes lesser known villages
st romain auxery duresses santenay
cote chalonnaise villages
bouzeron rully mercurey givry montagny
cote chalonnaise 1er cru location
warmest south-east facing slopes (sunlight) limestone soil (draining)
bouzeron white grape
aligote
rully produces grape for what typology of wine
cremant de bourgogne
montagny produces what kind of wine
white only
macon main aops
Pouilly Fuisse Saint Veran Vire Clesse Pouilly Vinzelles Pouilly Loche
macon villages that can add names on label
Macon Lugny Macon Solutre
best village in macon
pouilly fuisse 22 climats 1er cru (2020) sunlight/drainage
general style of wine in burgundy
north cote de nuits: eg marsannay cooler, gentler slope - can produce rose, less protection from cold winds fixin fresh and light body gevrey to nuits st georges - maximum protection from west winds, more alcohol and ripeness volnay/chambolle fruitier pommard gevrey fuller body puligny floral concentrated meursault full body powerfull
historical burgundy trade
large negociants buy grapes or finished wines from the 80’s domaines starts to bottle
name few famous negociants
albert bichot joseph drouhin faiveley louis jadot bouchard pere et fils dujac fils et pere
dujac estate structure
domaine dujac - made from his own grapes dujac fils et pere - negoce
structure of business in burgundy
growers - sells grapes or finished wines to negociantiants domaines - make wines under own label from owned vineyards negociants - large businesses buy grapes or finished wines and sells them under negoce label micro-negociants - buy grapes from top quality, make wine under negoce name (ex benjamin leroux) co-operatives - more important in Chablis (Chablissienne) and Maconnais (Cave de Lugny)
inheritance laws problems
children needs to inherit equal parts of an estate loads of similar producers with similar names
why quality has risen a lot?
new young winemakers who travelled a lot and better trained technically more open minded approach
general route to market
direct via cellar doors to negoce e co-op via distributor chain
where is burgundy sold?
50% France 25% EU 25% outside EU
burgundy biggest export market
USA UK Japan
prices are decided based on what in burgundy?
domaine - rousseau sells a village for super-premium price cru - reputation and level (grand cru)
secondary market, how much did the price rise
between 2003 and 2016 price rose by 200%
where you can find burgundy wines
many level of qualities from supermakets, to restaurants, fine dining, specialistics wine shops and en primeur sales
why the price rose so much for burgundy bottles
1 - inheritance laws 2 - land prices going up 3 - worldwide demand 4 - small production 5 - push from foreign buyers of wine businesses