Coasts EQ2 Flashcards

How do characteristic coastal landforms contribute to coastal landscapes?

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1
Q

What 4 factors does wave size depend on?

A

strength of wind
duration wind has blown for
water depth
fetch

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2
Q

True or false: when the water column depth is less than the wavelength, the wave will start to break

A

TRUE

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3
Q

Describe constructive waves

A

swash more powerful than backwash
low surging waves
long wavelength
beach gain

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4
Q

Describe destructive waves

A

stronger backwash than swash
high plunging waves
short wavelength
beach loss

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5
Q

What is meant by beach morphology?

A

shape of a beach

beach profile

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6
Q

How does beach morphology change in different timescales?

A

over a day - storms pass and destructive waves change to constructive
between summer and winter
changes to climate

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7
Q

List 4 beach landforms that change constantly

A

storm beach height
beam ridges
runnels and channels
offshore ridges/bars

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8
Q

State 3 differences between summer and winter beaches

A

summer: steeper profiles, smaller towards shore (waves have less energy), berms of shingle, constructive waves
winter: berms eroded by high energy swash, destructive waves, offshore bars (created by strong backwash)

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9
Q

List the 4 erosion processes and describe them

A

hydraulic action - air trapped in joints, air compressed when wave breaks , expanding cracks

abrasion (corrasion) - waves carrying pebbles and sand break and material is hurled up cliff

attrition - sediment is chipped after collisions in waves

corrosion (solution) - carbonate rocks vulnerable to solution by salt water

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10
Q

What are erosion types influenced by?

A

wave type, size and lithology

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11
Q

List 5 erosional landforms

A
headlands and bays
wave cut notch
shoreline platform
cave, arch,stack and stump 
cliff
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12
Q

On what kind of coasts do headlands and bays form?

A

discordant (hard and soft perpendicular)

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13
Q

How are wave cut notches created?

A

waves break against foot of cliff so erosion is concentrated

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14
Q

How are shoreline platforms/ wave cut platforms created?

A

notch retreats inland as erosion continues causing cliff to retreat leaving platform

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15
Q

How do wave cut platforms reduce erosion?

A

width means waves break earlier

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16
Q

True or false? vertical or horizontal strata produces gentler cliffs?

A

FALSE - steeper

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17
Q

Describe the 4 types of transportation in order of particle size

A

traction - sediment rolled along
saltation - sediment bounces
suspension - sediment carried in water column
solution - dissolved material carried

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18
Q

What is sediment transportation influenced by?

A

angle of wave attack, currents, longshore drift, tides

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19
Q

In what two ways can deposition occur?

A

gravity settling occurs when energy of transporting water becomes too low to move sediment

flocculation (process for small particles) clay particles clump together through electrical or chemical attraction and become large enough to sink

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20
Q

List 5 depositional landforms

A
spits
beaches
bars
tombolo's
cuspate foreland
21
Q

What is the difference between swash aligned and drift aligned beaches?

A

swash aligned - sediment moves up and down beach as wave breaks parallel with coast
drift aligned - sediment transferred by longshore dirftas wave breaks at an angle to coast

22
Q

On what kind of beach (swash or drift aligned) to spits form on?

A

drift

23
Q

How do spits form?

A

sediment moved along by LSD but a sudden coastline direction change causing sediment to build up along estuary mouth

the deposition occurs because the LSD current spreads out and loses energy

24
Q

How are bars formed?

A

beach or spit extends across bay

25
Q

How are offshore bars formed?

A

destructive waves erode sand from beach and deposit it they are ridges of sediment created by offshore waves

26
Q

What are tombolo’s and how are they formed?

A

beach that has formed between a small island and mainland

form as a result of wave refraction around offshore island creating area of calm water = deposition

27
Q

How do double spits form?

A

different wave refractions

e.g Isle of Purbeck

28
Q

What is a cuspate foreland and how is it formed?

A

triangular shaped foreland

occurs when coast is exposed to LSD from opposite directions

29
Q

What are the three components of the sediment cell concept?

A

sources, transfers, sinks

30
Q

What is meant by sources in the sediment cell concept?

b) transfers
c) sinks

A

places where sediment is generated

b) places where sediment is moving alongshore (via LSD or currents)
c) depositional land forms

31
Q

Give an example of two sources

A

erosion of cliffs, subaerial processes

32
Q

Give an example of two transfers

A

LSD, wave transport through swash and backwash

33
Q

Give an example of two sinks

A

near shore and foreshore depositional landforms

34
Q

What is the amount of sediment available within a cell called?

A

sediment budget

35
Q

In what 3 states can sediment cell be in

A

equilibrium
positive feedback
negative feedback

36
Q

What is meant by sediment cell being in equilibrium?

+ve feedback

-ve feedback

A

as much being deposited as taken

when the changed produces an effect that operates to increase the original change

when the change produced creates effects that operate to reduce or work against the original change

37
Q

Give an example of positive feedback

A

damage to sand dunes during storm prevents grass growing = eroision

38
Q

Give an example of negative feedback

A

wave erosion causes rocks to fall = protects base from eroision

39
Q

How many sediment cells (divisions along coast line) are in the UK?

A

11

each with their own SMP

40
Q

What is meant by subaerial processes?

A

weathering and mass movement

41
Q

What are the three types of weathering

A

mechanical
chemical
biological

42
Q

What is meant by lithology?

A

rock types

43
Q

Describe 2 types of mechanical weathering

A

freeze thaw- water enters crack and expands as it freezes putting pressure on rock and causing it to eventually break

wetting and drying- rocks rich in clay expand when they get wet and contract as they dry causing them to crack

44
Q

Describe 2 types of chemical weathering

A

carbonation- rainwater absorbs C02 from air to form a weak carbonic acid which react with calcium carbonate in rock making it dissolvable

oxidation- addition of oxygen to minerals increases volume contributing to breakdown

45
Q

Describe 2 types of biological weathering

A

plant roots- roots growing in cracks force rocks apart

animals- dig burrows causing them to break

46
Q

Describe the 3 types of mass movement and where they occur

A

blockfall- large rocks fall away from the cliff as a single piece due to the jointing of the rock
occur on strong, steep, joined cliffs

roational slumping- material slowly rotates downslope often when in saturated condition
occur on cliffs where softer materials overlie more resistant rock

landslides- rocks that are jointed or have bedding planes roughly parallel to the slope or cliff surface are susceptible
occur often when there is an increase in the amount of water that reduces the friction (causing sliding)

47
Q

What kind of landform is created as a result of block fall?

A

Talus scree slopes

scree at the bottom

48
Q

What kind of landform is created as a result of rotational slumping?

A

rotational scars

and terraced cliffs

49
Q

What kind of landform is created as a result of landslides?

A

terraced cliffs