Coasts EQ2 Flashcards
How do characteristic coastal landforms contribute to coastal landscapes?
What 4 factors does wave size depend on?
strength of wind
duration wind has blown for
water depth
fetch
True or false: when the water column depth is less than the wavelength, the wave will start to break
TRUE
Describe constructive waves
swash more powerful than backwash
low surging waves
long wavelength
beach gain
Describe destructive waves
stronger backwash than swash
high plunging waves
short wavelength
beach loss
What is meant by beach morphology?
shape of a beach
beach profile
How does beach morphology change in different timescales?
over a day - storms pass and destructive waves change to constructive
between summer and winter
changes to climate
List 4 beach landforms that change constantly
storm beach height
beam ridges
runnels and channels
offshore ridges/bars
State 3 differences between summer and winter beaches
summer: steeper profiles, smaller towards shore (waves have less energy), berms of shingle, constructive waves
winter: berms eroded by high energy swash, destructive waves, offshore bars (created by strong backwash)
List the 4 erosion processes and describe them
hydraulic action - air trapped in joints, air compressed when wave breaks , expanding cracks
abrasion (corrasion) - waves carrying pebbles and sand break and material is hurled up cliff
attrition - sediment is chipped after collisions in waves
corrosion (solution) - carbonate rocks vulnerable to solution by salt water
What are erosion types influenced by?
wave type, size and lithology
List 5 erosional landforms
headlands and bays wave cut notch shoreline platform cave, arch,stack and stump cliff
On what kind of coasts do headlands and bays form?
discordant (hard and soft perpendicular)
How are wave cut notches created?
waves break against foot of cliff so erosion is concentrated
How are shoreline platforms/ wave cut platforms created?
notch retreats inland as erosion continues causing cliff to retreat leaving platform
How do wave cut platforms reduce erosion?
width means waves break earlier
True or false? vertical or horizontal strata produces gentler cliffs?
FALSE - steeper
Describe the 4 types of transportation in order of particle size
traction - sediment rolled along
saltation - sediment bounces
suspension - sediment carried in water column
solution - dissolved material carried
What is sediment transportation influenced by?
angle of wave attack, currents, longshore drift, tides
In what two ways can deposition occur?
gravity settling occurs when energy of transporting water becomes too low to move sediment
flocculation (process for small particles) clay particles clump together through electrical or chemical attraction and become large enough to sink