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Geohazard > Coastal Hazards - Coastal Processes > Flashcards

Coastal Hazards - Coastal Processes Flashcards

1
Q

The periodic rise and fall of sea level is known as

A

ocean tides

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2
Q

ocean tides are caused by

A

spinning motion of the Earth, combined with the gravitational interaction between the Earth, Moon, and Sun

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3
Q

refers to the difference in sea level between high
and low tides.

A

Tidal range

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4
Q

occurs when the Moon and Sun periodically line
up such that their gravitational effects reinforce one another

A

Spring tide

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5
Q

occurs when the gravitational pull of the Moon and
Sun are at right angles which tend to cancel their tidal effects on one another.

A

Neap tide

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6
Q

t or f: Earth’s oceans bulge outward because of forces created by the planet’s spinning motion
and gravitational interaction with the Moon and Sun.

A

t

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7
Q

t or f: the Moon has a greater tidal influence than the sun

A

t

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8
Q

these form as the surface of the Earth rotates in and out of the bulges within the oceans

A

ocean tides

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9
Q

also called the maximum tides

A

spring tides

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10
Q

three main tidal patterns:

A

diurnal, semidiurnal, mixed tidal pattern

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11
Q

diurnal means

A

daily

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12
Q

Characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each tidal day

A

diurnal

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13
Q

exhibits single two high tides and two low tides each tidal day

A

semidiurnal

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14
Q

semidiurnal tidal pattern is common along __________

A

Atlantic Coast of the United States

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15
Q

Similar to semidiurnal pattern except that it is characterized by a large inequality in high water heights, low water heights, or both.

A

mixed tidal pattern

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16
Q

in this tidal pattern, there are usually two high and two low tides each day, with high tides of different heights and low tides of different heights

A

mixed tidal pattern

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17
Q

mixed tidal pattern is prevalent along

A

prevalent along the Pacific coast of the United States and in many other parts of the world

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18
Q

on what phases of the moon does spring tide occur?

A

full moon and new moon

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19
Q

on what phases of the moon does neap tide occur?

A

first quarter and third quarter

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20
Q

are strong localized currents during high tide formed
by the surface of the sea sloping towards the shore which generates mechanical energy that forces water to funnel up into inlets and river channels.

A

Tidal currents

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21
Q

tidal currents generate __________ that forces water to funnel up into ________ and ________

A

mechanical energy ; inlets and river channels

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22
Q

tidal currents are formed by the surface of the sea ____________ the shore

A

sloping towards

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23
Q

involve the physical movement of water molecules
from one location to another, are driven by various forms of energy

A

ocean currents

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24
Q

currents flow from an area of _________ to ________

A

high energy to lower energy

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25
Q

are large scale currents in the open water near the
surface of the sea which are driven mainly by winds blowing consistently in the same direction.

A

surface currents

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26
Q

surface currents are driven mainly by

A

winds blowing consistently in the same direction

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27
Q

are formed in response to differences in ocean
temperature and salinity

A

density currents

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28
Q

Cooler and more saline water is relatively
________ which causes it to ______ and _______ toward areas where water is _________.

A

dense ; sink and flow; less dense

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29
Q

t or f: cooler water is denser

A

T

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30
Q

t or f: saline water is less dense

A

F (denser)

31
Q

the movement of water from one location to another

A

currents

32
Q

transport energy through water such that water
molecules move or vibrate in a circular manner.

A

water waves

33
Q

Water waves transport energy in a ________ manner, but the___________ of water molecules causes physical objects to move in a ______ manner.

A

horizontal manner ; circular motion ; vertical manner

34
Q

t or f: water waves transport energy in a horizontal manner

A

t

35
Q

is the depth where water molecules are no longer
affected by the passing wave

A

wave base

36
Q

wave base is equal to

A

one half of the wave’s wavelength

37
Q

distance between successive crests of a wave

A

wavelength

38
Q

contact area between the wind and water

A

fetch

39
Q

The energy of wind generated waves is also affected by

A
  1. fetch
  2. duration of the wind
40
Q

factors that determine the size and energy of waves

A

wind energy, duration of wind, fetch

41
Q

the faster the wind speed, the ________ the wave energy

A

greater

42
Q

the longer the wind blows, the _________ the waves

A

larger

43
Q

the greater the fetch, the ____________ the wave has

A

the more energy the wave has

44
Q

the circular motion of water molecule in a wave gets progressively __________ with depth

A

smaller

45
Q

the level at which all movement stops

A

wave base

46
Q

t or f: wave base get deeper with increasing wave energy

A

t

47
Q

water from a breaker washing
upon a beach at whatever angle the breaker
approached shore.

A

swash

48
Q

swash water retreating back
under the influence of gravity

A

backswash

49
Q

t or f: Backwash takes the shortest path, direct to
the sea, not an oblique angle as taken by
swash.

A

t

50
Q

t or f: backswash takes a path with an oblique angle

A

F (swash)

51
Q

what are the two types of waves

A

constructive and destructive waves

52
Q

this type of wave has stronger swash and weaker backwash, occurs on gentle sloping coasts, and deposits materials on the beach more than it removes.

A

constructive waves

53
Q

this type of wave has stronger backwash and weaker swash, occurs on steep sloping coasts, and removes (erodes) materials on the beach more than it
deposits.

A

destructive waves

54
Q

destructive waves occurs on _______ slopes ; constructive waves occur on _________

A

steep ; gentle

55
Q

low waves in proportion to length

A

constructive wave

56
Q

high waves in proportion to length

A

destructive waves

57
Q

As the wave continues toward shore, this causes a progressive _________ in velocity along the ______ of the wave, forcing it to bend in a process called ________

A

decrease ; length ; wave refraction

58
Q

____________ is a wave whose amplitude reaches a _________ at which some process can suddenly start that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into _______________

A

breaking wave ; critical level ; turbulent kinetic energy

59
Q

refers to the area where the waves break

A

surf zone

60
Q

is an ocean current that flows parallel to the shore
and is caused by large swells (series of waves) sweeping into the shoreline at an angle and pushing down the length of the beach in one direction.

A

longshore current

61
Q

a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity

A

swells

62
Q

is the process of transporting material
along a coast by waves which approach at an angle to the shore but recede perpendicular from it.

A

longshore drift or beach drift

63
Q

longshore drift approach ________ to the shore but recede ________ from it

A

at ang angle ; perpendicular

64
Q

t or f: friction causes waves to slow down

A

t

65
Q

less friction slows down waves, this in turn causes __________ to _______ as the waves grow in height and become ___________, eventually waves become so _____ they fall on themselves and form breaking waves

A

wavelength ; decrease ; less asymmetric ; asymmetric

66
Q

wavelength ________ and wave height __________ as waves get closer to the shore

A

decreases ; increases

67
Q

as a wave approaches the land, the end closest to the shore encounters the seafloor first, forcing it to slow down while the other end travels at its original speed. this velocity difference results in _________ or _________ toward the shore

A

wave bending or refracting

68
Q

Breaking waves push water up the beach, creating a _______ path as the water flows back into the surf zone

A

zigzagging

69
Q

longshore current moves both water and sediment ________ to shore

A

parallel

70
Q

can travel farther inland than the normal waves, this is due to the increased local sea level during storm events.

A

storm surges

71
Q

t or f: Storms have the effect of not only generating waves but also increasing the height of the localized sea level

A

t

72
Q

Large waves caused by the sudden mid/under sea displace of a large volume of water

A

tsunamis

73
Q

tsunamis are caused by:

A

coastal landslides
mid-sea volcanic eruptions
calving
meteorite impacts

74
Q

the glaciological term for the mechanical loss (or simply, breaking off) of ice from a glacier margin

A

calving

Geohazard (25 decks)

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