Coastal environments Flashcards
define coastal environment (Environment coasts)
the zone in which the land meets the sea
Name the inputs (Environment coasts)
Waves
Tectonics
Climate change
Economics
Name the processes (Environment coasts)
Weathering
Long shore drift
Hydraulic action
Name the outputs (Environment coasts)
Cliffs
Beaches
Spits
Sand dunes
why do waves usually form? (Environment coasts)
Wind moving over the surface of the ocean
How do waves form? (Environment coasts)
Wind drags over the surface of the water and the fiction causes a disturbance, forming a wave
Wear type of motion does a wave travel in? (Environment coasts)
Circular motion then into orbital motion
Define wave length (Environment coasts)
The distance between two successive crests
Define wave period (Environment coasts)
Time (in seconds) between two successive wave crests/troughs
Define wave frequency (Environment coasts)
number of waves per minute
Define wave height (Environment coasts)
Distance between the crest and the trough of one wave
Define velocity (Environment coasts)
Speed at which the wave travels
What affects velocity? (Environment coasts)
Wind
Fetch
Depth
What is wave energy determined by? (Environment coasts)
Fetch
Duration
Velocity
What is the fetch of a wave? (Environment coasts)
distance of which the wind blew
What is the formation of a constructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Distant weather systems generate them over a long period of time
What is the formation of a destructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Local storms are responsible
What is the wave form of a constructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Low serving waves
Long wave length
What is the wave form of a destructive wave? (Environment coasts)
High plunging waves
Short wave length
What is the wave break of a constructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Strong swash
Weak backwash
What is the wave break of a destructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Weak swash
Strong backwash
What is the beach profile of a constructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Gentle
Sediment build up
Beach becomes steeper
What is the beach profile of a destructive wave? (Environment coasts)
Steep beach profile
Over time beach will flatten
What is wave refraction? (Environment coasts)
The process where waves approach an irregular coastline and become increasingly parallel to the coast line
What is the process of wave refraction? (Environment coasts)
Wave comes near the shore and drags in shallow waters
Wave over deeper water continues on course
Wave bends on the approach
Wave energy concentrated towards headland
Low energy at bays
