Coastal environments Flashcards
define coastal environment (Environment coasts)
the zone in which the land meets the sea
Name the inputs (Environment coasts)
Waves
Tectonics
Climate change
Economics
Name the processes (Environment coasts)
Weathering
Long shore drift
Hydraulic action
Name the outputs (Environment coasts)
Cliffs
Beaches
Spits
Sand dunes
why do waves usually form? (Environment coasts)
Wind moving over the surface of the ocean
How do waves form? (Environment coasts)
Wind drags over the surface of the water and the fiction causes a disturbance, forming a wave
Wear type of motion does a wave travel in? (Environment coasts)
Circular motion then into orbital motion
Define wave length (Environment coasts)
The distance between two successive crests
Define wave period (Environment coasts)
Time (in seconds) between two successive wave crests/troughs
Define wave frequency (Environment coasts)
number of waves per minute
Define wave height (Environment coasts)
Distance between the crest and the trough of one wave
Define velocity (Environment coasts)
Speed at which the wave travels
What affects velocity? (Environment coasts)
Wind
Fetch
Depth
What is wave energy determined by? (Environment coasts)
Fetch
Duration
Velocity
What is the fetch of a wave? (Environment coasts)
distance of which the wind blew
