coastal environments Flashcards
dune succession?
name some coastal processes
erosion
mass movement
weathering
transport
deposition
what are some inputs into coastal environments?
marine e.g., waves, tides, storm surges
atmosphere e.g., weather, climate, climate change, solar energy
land e.g., rock yupr, structure, techtonic activity
people e.g., coastal management and human activity
what are some outputs of coastal environments?
erosional landformas like arches, stumps, stacks, headlands, and bays
depositional landforms like splits tombolos and beaches
different types of coasts like sandy beaches, coastal wetlands, and others
what factors influence variation in coastal environments?
human activity can change coastal environments, sea lewvel and changes in the level can create either emergent of submergent coastlines
wave energy can crease high or low energy coatlines
geology can affect rates of erocion aswell as concordant/discordant coastlines
balaance between erosion and deposition can create either erosional or depositional coastlines (dynamic equilibrium)
- vegetation can also infulence the types of coastal ecosystems like sand dunes
what is dynamic equilibrium?
it is a pweriod in a system when is inputs and outputs of energy and matter are balanced. this can stay steady for a long period of time but short term changes can still occur which systems can adjust to by a process of negative feedback
- beaches are an example of dynamic equilibrium because htey adjust to changing energy inputs. thius is. adelicate equilibrium between the amount off sand and erosion
what is a littoral zone? how is the coast a littoral zone?
it is the transition zone betwen the land and the sea and consists fo 2 parts, onshore and offshore
name some different types of beaches
rocky headlands, land reclamation, coastal plains, salt marshes, sand dunes, fjords, sandy beaches, rocky headlands
what causes waves?
- waves come from the transfer of energy from the wind. this causes friction with the surface of the sea, and the water begins to move in a circular motion. the amount of energy gained depends on
- wind speed, length of time the wind has been blowing for, distance the wind has been blowing
- firciton wiht the seabed slows the wave at the base, but the top of the wave doesnt slow down. therefore the top becomes higher and steeper until it breaks
- the wave moving up the beach is called the swash whereas the wave flowing back down to the sea is called backwash and this is due to gravity
what happens when waves reach the coast? describe the process step by step
- in th eopen sea, despite the wavy surface, there is little horizontal movement in water
- only when the waves approach the shore is there forward mvement of water as waves break and surge up on the beach
- the seabed interrupts the circular movement of the water
- as the water becomes shallower, the circular motion becomes more elliptical
- this causes the crest of the wave to rise up and eventually collapse on the beach
- the water thatrushes up the beach is called the swash
- the wateer that flows back into the sea is called backwash
what are the number of wave crests hat break per minute equivalent to?
wave frequency
describe the relationship between wind speed and wave height
- strong relationship
- as wind speed increases, wave height increases in general as there is more energy in the wave
what are the features of a constructive wave?
- long wavelength, weak backwash, shallow wave gradiwnts, stron swash, orbit becomes eliptical due to the shore friction at the base of the wave
- the beach is built up by a deposition of material brought in by the swash
- shallow and gently sloping beach profile
spilling type of wave break
low frequecny of wave
what are the features of a deconstructive wave?
- tall waves, short wavelength, steep gradient waves, weak swash, stron backwash
- beach eroded as material is dragged back and moved along by longshore drift
- rbit becomes eliptical due to friction
- basically short and tall waves with higher frequency. they have a plunging wave break and have a steep beach profile
what is the difference between beach profiles in the summer versus in the winter?
in the summer:
- beaches are steeper
- berms are built up
- more sediment is deposited and backwash is weaker
- usually ocnstructive waves as there is lower enerfy
- water level is lower
in winter:
- more enrgy due to weather meanders there are destructive watves, leading to more erosions na dsteeper beach profiles
- there are bars
- destructive plunging waves
what is erosion?
the wearing away of the land by an external agent. (e.g., water, wind, humans, ice). material is removed
what is hydraulic action?
the power of the waves forces the water into the cracks in a cliff. this compresses the air in the cracks. When the wave retreats the compressed air blasts out forcing the rock apart (cavitation)
what is solution?
some rock types like limestone, are dissolved by a chemical reaction between salt and other acids in sea water
what is attrition?
it is when material carried by the waves will collide together causing them to become rouder and smaller over time
what is abrasion?
this is caused by the waves picking up sand and pebbles and hurling them at the cliffs with force, wearing away the cliff
draw a discordant coastline
different layers of rock are exposed to rock (perpendicular to) and will erode at different rates
draw a concordant coastline
on the left you can see the concordant coastline. the layer of rock is parallel to the coastline and only one type of rock is exposed . they will erode at the same rate
what will happen to the rock on a discordant coastline?
- where rock is more resistant, it will be eroded less, leaving a headland that sticks out
- where there is less resistant rock, the material is eroded more quickly by:
abrasion, which is where pebbles and rocks are hurled at the cliff by destructive waves, weakeneing the rock,
and hydraulic action where waves compress air into cracks in the rock and blast it apart - this leads to the fromation of a sheltered bay and sediment from the eroding headland helps to from a beach, the headland protects the beach from the full force of the waves. attrition breaks down the boulders into pebbles and eventrually sand to form thebeach
- the headland is now exposed to the full force of the wavws and is vulnerable to erosion
describe how coastal processes can transform cliffs into caves, arches, stacks and stumps
large crack is opened by hydraulic action.
the crack grows into a cave by hydraulic action and abrasion
- the cave becomes larger
- the cave breaks throguh the headland forming a. natural arch
- the arch is eroded and collapses
- this leaves a tall rock stack and rthe base of the stackcontinues to erode
- the stack is eroded as it falls and collapses and a stump is formed (by hydralic action)
how do wave cut platforms and wave cut notch form?
- the erosion or a clidd is greatest at its base where large waves break- hydraulic action, abrasion, constantly undercut the foot of the cliff forming a ‘ wave cut notch’
- the undercutting continues and eventually the overhanging cliff becomes so heavy it collapses downwards- this process continues over time and the cliff gradually retrreats and becomes steeper
- as the cliff retreats, a gently sloping rocky platform is left at the base, this is known as a wave cut platform which is exposed at low tide
if the sea level were to rise significantly… the same process would happen but higher up on the cliff and create another step. if it were to dall… areas are raised out