Coast Flashcards

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1
Q

what are the two types of waves?

A

Destructive
constructive

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2
Q

factors influencing wave strength

A

fetch
wind duration
wind speed

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3
Q

What is the wave height?

A

difference between a peak and trough

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3
Q

what is a fetch?

A

how far the wave has travelled

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4
Q

What is the wave length?

A

Difference between 2 peaks or 2 troughs.

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5
Q

CONSTRUCTIVE WAVE
height, length, break,

A

low
long
spill

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6
Q

CONSTRUCTIVE WAVE
swash, backwash, sediment

A

powerful swash
weak backwash
gains sediment - extend beach

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7
Q

DESTRUCTIVE WAVE
height, length, break

A

high
close
destroy/plunge

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8
Q

DESTRUCTIVE WAVE
swash, backwash, sediment

A

Weak swash
strong backwash
loose sediment - destroy beach

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9
Q

What is weathering?

A

weakening of material, while it remains in its og location.

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10
Q

What is mechanical weathering?
explain the process

A

freeze thaw weathering
a crack in a rock fills up with water
water freezes expands and cracks the rock a bit more
process continues until the rocks splits in half

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11
Q

what are the 3 types of weathering?

A

mechanical weathering
biological weathering
chemical weathering

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12
Q

What is chemical weathering?

A

the breakdown of rocks because of the interaction with air, water or acid

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13
Q

What is mass movement?

A

downhill movement of weathered material under the force of gravity.

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14
Q

What is biological weathering?

A

plants and animals weaken cliffs.
by burrowing
plant roots

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15
Q

4 types of mass movement

A

rock fall
landslide
mudflow
slumping (rotational slip)

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16
Q

What is a rockfall?

A

a type of weathering causing a section of rock to fall of a 90° cliff

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17
Q

What is a landslide?
what is it caused by..

A

section of rock that break away and slides down a slope.
caused by heavy rain or earthquakes

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18
Q

What is a mudflow?
what is it caused by..

A

Saturated soil that breaks away and slides down a slope.
caused by heavy rain and earthquakes

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19
Q

What is slumping/ rotational slip?

A

Saturated soil slumps down a curved surface

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20
Q

What is erosion?

A

The wearing away of material moving its location.

21
Q

what are the 4 types of erosion?

A

hydraulic action
solution
abrasion
attrition

22
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

force of destructive wave hitting cliff causing it to break.

23
Q

What is abrasion?

A

pebbles grind against rock - sandpaper effect

24
Q

What is attrition?

A

collision of rocks causing them to break down.

25
Q

What is solution (erosion)?
give an example

A

water dissolves certain types of rocks.
e.g calcium carbonate is dissolved by acid rain

26
Q

4 types of transportation

A

suspension
traction
solution
saltation

27
Q

what is traction?

A

heaviest rocks roll along sea floor

28
Q

What is saltation ?

A

Small pebbles bounce along sea floor

29
Q

What is suspension?

A

fine sand floats

30
Q

What is solution (transport)?

A

Soluble material dissolves

31
Q

Why does sediment get deposited?

A

when water looses energy

32
Q

What is a discordant coastline?

A

you have different bands of rock running perpendicular to coastline.

33
Q

What is a concordant coastline?

A

A concordant coastline has the same type of rock along its length. The alternating bands of hard and soft rock run parallel to the coast.
coves form here

34
Q

How is a wave cut notch platform formed?

A

a cliff with a high tide and low tide
by hydraulic action and abrasion base of cliff eroded and forms a wave cut notch
top bit falls down forming a wave cut platform and process repeats.

35
Q

How is a stump formed?

A

a crack in a headland widens into a cave by hydraulic action and erosion methods
cave opens up into an arch
arch falls in creating a stack
stacks erodes and shrunk into a stump
until stump is gone leaving another headland #for process to repeat.

36
Q

How do coves form?

A

form on a concordant coastline.
when a narrow entrance is made through resistant rock as it shard to erode.
but space opens up as soft rock is much easier to erode

37
Q

What is longshore drift?

A

The movement of material along a coast by waves which approach at an angle to the shore but recede directly away from it.

38
Q

Longshore drift and spit formation?
what else does this form?

A

prevailing wind at 45° to coast and swash
back wash is 90°
process repeats in zigzag pattern
when reach end of coastline sediment deposited
prevailing wind changes direction forming a hook.
creating a saltmarsh

39
Q

What is hard engineering?

A

artificial structures are used to reduce levels of erosion and protect the coastline

40
Q

What is a sea wall?
cost, +, -

A

concrete barrier placed near cliff , curved lip to reflect wave
£5000-£10000 per metre
+ effective
- unnatural, expensive

41
Q

types of hard engineering (sea) ?

A

sea wall
groynes
rock armour
gabions

42
Q

What are groynes?
cost, +, -

A

timber structure built to trap sediment and enlarge beach which can act as a buffer.
£150000 each (200m)
+ wider beach, cheaper
- starve beach further along, unnatural

43
Q

What are gabions?
cost, +, -

A

wire cages filled with rocks, built up to support cliffs, provide a buffer
£50,000 (100m)
+ cheap, improve draining
- unattractive only last 5-10 years

43
Q

What is rock armour?
cost, +, -

A

piles of large boulders at cliff base rock absorbs wave energy.
£200,000 (100m)
+ cheaper, more natural
- expensive to transport

44
Q

What is soft engineering?

A

creating or enhancing natural structures that use natural processes to prevent erosion and floods.

45
Q

Types of soft engineering (sea)?

A

beach reprofiling
dune regeneration
dune fencing

46
Q

What is beach reprofiling?
cost, +, -

A

add sediment to beach so it is wider make it steeper so its harder for waves to travel up to cliff.
£50000 (100m)
+ cheap, natural
- constant maintenance

47
Q

What is dune regeneration?
cost, +, -

A

dunes act as a buffer but are easily damaged by trampling and storms.
marram grass can be planted to help develop dunes as they trap sediment.
£200-2,000 (100m)
+ cheap, natural
- time consuming, damaged easy

48
Q

What is dune fencing used for?

A

fences on a sandy beach along dunes to protect them and prevent people trampling and encourage new dune formation
£400-2000 (100m)
+ cheap, minimal impact
- unsightly, regular maintenance after storms