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Mayra cosmetology > Chapter 20 A > Flashcards

Chapter 20 A Flashcards

1
Q

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are?

A

Peptide bonds

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2
Q

Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by

A

Peptide bonds

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3
Q

Keratin proteins are made of long chains of what? Link3d together end to end like beads

A

Amino acids

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4
Q

What type of bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together?

A

Disulfide bond

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5
Q

The action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and do what to the hair?

A

Expand the hair

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6
Q

The chemical action of what?, breaks down the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.

A

Waving lotion

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7
Q

What hair type has a strong resistant cuticle and needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution?

A

Coarse

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8
Q

What type of with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution?

A

Porous

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9
Q

The alkalinity of the perm chosen should correspond to the resistance strength and what of the cuticle layer?

A

Porosity

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10
Q

What is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms?

A

Ammonium thioglycolate

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11
Q

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions?

A

Glycerol monothioglycolate

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12
Q

Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are?

A

Acid balanced waves

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13
Q

What type of perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product?

A

Exothermic

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14
Q

A perm activated by an outside heat source like a hooded dryer

A

Endothermic

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15
Q

What type is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from a perm service?

A

Fine

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16
Q

What type of hair usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing?

A

Coarse

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17
Q

The amount of processing should be determined by what?

A

Strength of the solution

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18
Q

In permanent waving, the most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first how many minutes?

A

Five to ten minutes

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19
Q

A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately, what percent of the disulfide bonds?

A

50

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20
Q

The hair will be to weak to hold a curl when to many of these bonds are broken. What are those bonds?

A

Disulfide

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21
Q

If the hair is under processed, further processing will make it

A

Curlier

22
Q

Neutralization rebuilds, what bond that have been broken?

A

Disulfide

23
Q

The hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with the waving lotion and cause the hair to fade if the is not

A

Properly rinsed

24
Q

Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for at least how many minutes

A

5

25
Q

Some manufacturers recommend the application of a what? After blotting and before the application of the neutralizer

A

Pre-neutralizing conditioner

26
Q

What type of liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged?

A

Acidic

27
Q

Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the what? That was added by the permanent waving solution

A

Hydrogen

28
Q

What test is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break,dry, or frizz?

A

Preliminary test curl

29
Q

Which type of rods have a smaller diameter in the center area gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends?

A

Concave

30
Q

Straight rods are equal in what? Along their entire length or curling area and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand.

A

Diameter

31
Q

End papers are thin absorbent papers used to do what to the ends of the hair?

A

Control the ends

32
Q

This perm wrap is done with one end paper is placed under and one is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped

A

Double flat wrap

33
Q

This end paper technique uses only one end wrap placed over the top of the strand of hair.

A

Single flat wrap

34
Q

When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

A

Bookend wrap

35
Q

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are divided into subsection called

A

Base sections

36
Q

Base placement refers to the position of the rod in its relation to its What? And it’s determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

A

Base section

37
Q

When the hair is wrapped 45 degrees passed its section what base placement is it?

A

On base

38
Q

What base placement is 90 degrees?

A

Half base placement

39
Q

What placement is when the hair is rolled 45 degrees below it’s section?

A

Off base placement

40
Q

The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral

A

Spiral perm

41
Q

A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair

A

Double rod wrap

42
Q

The basic perm wrap is also called

A

Straight set

43
Q

What is the perm wrap that follows the curvature of the head

A

Curvature

44
Q

Which wrap is used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair?

A

Bricklayer

45
Q

The perm wrap that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

A

Weave perm

46
Q

Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called

A

Partial perm

47
Q

In order to make an easy transition to unwrapped section use a larger rod when wrapping what type of perm?

A

Partial perm

48
Q

Many male clients are looking for added what? When receiving a perm

A

Texture

49
Q

Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause severe discoloration, hair breakage or what else?

A

Uneven curls

50
Q

When performing a procedure for a preliminary test curl, wrap,some rod in each different area of the head including the top, the side, and where else?

A

Nape

Mayra cosmetology (15 decks)

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