Chapter 20 A Flashcards
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are?
Peptide bonds
Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by
Peptide bonds
Keratin proteins are made of long chains of what? Link3d together end to end like beads
Amino acids
What type of bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together?
Disulfide bond
The action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and do what to the hair?
Expand the hair
The chemical action of what?, breaks down the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.
Waving lotion
What hair type has a strong resistant cuticle and needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution?
Coarse
What type of with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution?
Porous
The alkalinity of the perm chosen should correspond to the resistance strength and what of the cuticle layer?
Porosity
What is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms?
Ammonium thioglycolate
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions?
Glycerol monothioglycolate
Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are?
Acid balanced waves
What type of perm is activated by heat created chemically within the product?
Exothermic
A perm activated by an outside heat source like a hooded dryer
Endothermic
What type is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from a perm service?
Fine
What type of hair usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing?
Coarse
The amount of processing should be determined by what?
Strength of the solution
In permanent waving, the most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first how many minutes?
Five to ten minutes
A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately, what percent of the disulfide bonds?
50
The hair will be to weak to hold a curl when to many of these bonds are broken. What are those bonds?
Disulfide
If the hair is under processed, further processing will make it
Curlier
Neutralization rebuilds, what bond that have been broken?
Disulfide
The hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with the waving lotion and cause the hair to fade if the is not
Properly rinsed
Always rinse the perm solution from the hair for at least how many minutes
5
Some manufacturers recommend the application of a what? After blotting and before the application of the neutralizer
Pre-neutralizing conditioner
What type of liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged?
Acidic
Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the what? That was added by the permanent waving solution
Hydrogen
What test is effective for determining correct processing time; expected results; rod and wrap choice; how color will be affected; and if the hair will break,dry, or frizz?
Preliminary test curl
Which type of rods have a smaller diameter in the center area gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends?
Concave
Straight rods are equal in what? Along their entire length or curling area and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand.
Diameter
End papers are thin absorbent papers used to do what to the ends of the hair?
Control the ends
This perm wrap is done with one end paper is placed under and one is placed over the strand of the hair being wrapped
Double flat wrap
This end paper technique uses only one end wrap placed over the top of the strand of hair.
Single flat wrap
When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Bookend wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels that are divided into subsection called
Base sections
Base placement refers to the position of the rod in its relation to its What? And it’s determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base section
When the hair is wrapped 45 degrees passed its section what base placement is it?
On base
What base placement is 90 degrees?
Half base placement
What placement is when the hair is rolled 45 degrees below it’s section?
Off base placement
The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral
Spiral perm
A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair
Double rod wrap
The basic perm wrap is also called
Straight set
What is the perm wrap that follows the curvature of the head
Curvature
Which wrap is used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair?
Bricklayer
The perm wrap that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
Weave perm
Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called
Partial perm
In order to make an easy transition to unwrapped section use a larger rod when wrapping what type of perm?
Partial perm
Many male clients are looking for added what? When receiving a perm
Texture
Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause severe discoloration, hair breakage or what else?
Uneven curls
When performing a procedure for a preliminary test curl, wrap,some rod in each different area of the head including the top, the side, and where else?
Nape
