CH3 Burgundy Flashcards
How long does Burgundy’s grape growing history go back?
Long grape growing history going back to Roman times and then the period of the great monasteries (1,000 CE onwards), in which vineyards began to be divided into individually named plots, known as “climats”
What is a “climat”?
Individually named plots, particularly in Burgundy
A named vineyard that is fixed in AOC legislation
What are the main regions of Burgundy?
Chablis (Yonne département)
Côte d’Or
Subdivided into Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune
Côte Chalonnaise
Mâconnais
As well as Beaujolais (which is treated as its own separate region)
Where are the regions of Burgundy centered?
With the exception of Chablis (which is closer to Champagne)…
All of these areas occupy a relatively narrow strip of land running approximately in a N to S direction between Dijon in the N to Mâcon in the S (approx 130km/ 80mi)
Côte de Nuits runs from Dijon to just S of Nuits-Saint-Georges
Côte de Beaune runs S from there to Santenay
What are the main grapes of Burgundy (not inclusive of Beaujolais)?
Where are these grapes most prominent?
Chardonnay (~50%) and Pinot Noir (~40%) dominate
Aligoté (~6%) and others (~3%) also planted
Chablis is 80% Chardonnay
Côte d’Or is over 60% PN
Historically, a substantial proportion of Aligoté and Gamay were grown (until early part of 20th century)
In what river valley is Chablis?
- The valley of the River Serein, in the northernmost part of Burgundy
How far is Chablis from Dijon?
- 110km/ 70mi NW of Dijon
What is a standard profile of a Chablis wine?
Chardonnay
Dry
Most are
medium body
Medium alcohol
Zesty high acidity
Green apple and lemon fruit flavors
The general trend is for no or minimal oak flavor though fermentation and aging in oak can be used by some producers for premiers and grands crus
Range for quality from good to outstanding wines that can be cellared and aged
Prices are mid-price to premium, w/ a few super-premium examples (although not typically as high as prices reached in Côte d’Or
How has demand for Chablis fluctuated over the years? Why?
Early 19th century boom due to proximity to Paris
Plantings shrunk under challenges of phylloxera and powdery mildew in 19th century and the building of the Paris-Lyons-Marseille railway which brought cheaper wine from south of FR
Rural depopulation after WWI and devastating frost of 1945 reduced Chablis to a low of just 500ha
In more recent decades, demand has led to the land under vine growing back to 5,500ha
Describe the climate of Chablis and the implications
Continental w/ cold winters and warm summers
Cool northern location leads to uncertain ripening and vintage variation
Why or why not is Chardonnay suited to Chablis’ climate?
Chardonnay’s early ripening is an advantage in the cool climate of Chablis
What are the main climate challenges in Chablis?
Annual rainfall is 670mm, spread throughout the year, making a moist climate, with a high threat of fungal diseases, with a threat of rot at harvest
Vulnerable to spring frost and hail storms during the growing season
What are the main soils of Chablis?
How does this vary by the different sub-areas of Chablis (Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, Chablis Grand Cru)
Limestone & clay, some of which has a considerable amount of fossilized seashells and is known as Kimmeridgian soil
Petit Chablis: typically higher, cooler vineyards; predominantly Portlandian soils (hard limestone w/ less clay)
Chablis: large area of Kimmeridgian soil
Chablis Premier Cru: Kimmeridgean soils
Chablis Grand Cru: Kimmeridgean soils
Comment on the main options for mitigating frost risk in Chablis?
smudge pots: causes air pollution, requires staff in the vineyard
Sprinklers (“aspersion”): this is now the most popular option, though the installation and maintenance costs mean that it is only a realistic option for vineyards w/ a good ROI (premiers crus, grand cru) or for well-funded companies
Pruning choices: later pruning promotes later bud-burst, reducing the chance of damage to the new buds from early spring frosts
What rootstocks are popular in Chablis? Why?
41B (vinifera x berlandieri) îs widely used as it is highly tolerant of limestone soils w/ a high pH
420A (riparia x berlandieri) is popular for its low vigor and tolerance to high pH soils
What is/are typical vine training system(s) in Chablis? Why?
Double-Guyot replacement cane training system is typical; if one cane fails, the other may survive the frost
Note, despite the name, Taille Chablis, a multi-armed cordon system is not typical for Chablis (used in Champagne)
How do yields in Chablis compare to Côte d’Or?
Yields are typically higher in Chablis than in Côte d’Or
However, recent years have seen severely reduced yields do to frost and hail damage
How are grapes in Chablis typically harvested?
(Unlike the Côte d’Or) Much of Chablis is machine harvested
The grand cru vineyards are mostly too steep for mechanization and are generally picked by hand
Describe the general terroir of Chablis’ 4 main areas
Petit Chablis: typically higher, cooler vineyards; predominantly Portlandian soils (hard limestone w/ less clay); flat land or gentle slopes; aspects vary w/ many N-facing
Chablis: large area of Kimmeridgian soil; flat land or gentle slopes; aspects vary w/ many N-facing
Chablis Premier Cru: Kimmeridgean soils; predominantly on S- and SE-facing slopes
Chablis Grand Cru: 1 Grand Cru with 7 named vineyards; Kimmeridgean soils, crumbly marl with good drainage and high clay content for water retention; right bank of River Serein; S-facing slopes
Define “climat” vs “lieu-dit”
Climat: a named vineyard fixed in AOC legislation
Lieu-dit: a named piece of land in the centralized land register
Describe the profile of Petit Chablis and Chablis wines and what accounts for this?
Light bodied wines, notable for high acidity, with light (Petit Chablis) to Medium (Chablis) intensity and green apple & lemon fruit
The vineyards are generally on flat land or gentle slopes, (Petit Chablis may be on higher, cooler vineyards) many w/ N-facing sites, so the fruit may struggle to ripen
How many named vineyards in Chablis have Premier Cru status?
- 40 named vineyards have Premier Cru status
How are lieux-dits treated in Chablis?
Some larger premier cru vineyards have specified named plots within them
Wines made from these can be labelled under their specific site (such as Chablis Premier Cru Troêsmes) or under the larger climat they fall within (such as Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy)
How many Grand Cru are in Chablis?
Location?
% of Chablis production?
there is a single grand cru with seven named vineyards, known as climats, including Les Clos and Vaudesir
It is immediately next to the village of Chablis itself, facing SW, on the right bank of the River Serein
1% of production
Why do wines from Chablis Premier and Grand Cru have greater concentration, body and capacity to age than other areas of Chablis?
Both are predominantly on S-facing slopes, often mid-slope
The slope means the vineyards are better drained and better protected from frost
The southerly aspect means better light interception and therefore riper fruit
These vineyards also benefit from shelter from winds coming from the N due to a belt of trees between it and the adjacent Petit Chablis vineyards
What are the typical winemaking practices in Chablis?
Chaptalization up to the legal limit is used regularly in all but the warmest years
Fermentation is typically in SS vessels
Storage is typically SS or concrete for a few months for most wines
MLF/C is common to soften the acidity and the wines may spend some months on the lees to enhance texture
Oak aromas, flavors and textures are not typically desirable nor commonly found in most generic Chablis
However, some wines, especially the Grands crus and more occasionally the premiers crus may be fermented and aged in barrels
There is a range of styles from use of old oak (e.g., Dauvissat or Raveneau), some new oak (e.g. William Fèvre) and use of SS or concrete for grand cru wines (e.g. Jean-Mark Bocard)
Why is use of oak controversial in Chablis?
some feel that Chablis should not smell or taste of oak, unlike many Chardonnays from around the world
What grape(s) are allowed in Chablis?
What are the max yields for each of the areas?
Chablis must be 100% Chardonnay
Max yields
Petit Chablis AOC: 60 hL/ha
Chablis AOC: 60 hL/ha
Chablis Premier Cru AOC: 54 hL/ha
Chablis Grand Cru AOC: 54 hL/ha
What is the main co-op of Chablis?
How much of the vinified wine does it represent?
What level(s) of the appellation hierarchy does it operate on?
La Chablisienne vinifies 1/3 of all the wine
Operates at all levels of the hierarch
What are the main players in the Chablis wine business?
How are their roles changing?
As in the rest of Burgundy, the traditional distinction between négociants (merchants) and domains (estates) is breaking down
Négociants have bought land
Some domaines supplement their own production w/ add’l négociant biz
1/3 of all wine is vinified by the co-op La Chablisienne
What is Le Syndicat de Défense de l’Appellation de Chablis?
An association founded by William Févre in 1993 with the aims of combatting fraud and addressing environmental issues
What is L’Union des Grands Crus de Chablis?
A voluntary association to promote the quality of Chablis Grand Cru
Limited to those who own grand cru sites
It has a quality charger: members must practice sustainable viticulture and harvest by hand
What are key factors of price of Chablis wines?
The name of the domaine
The level of the appelation
What % of Chablis by volume is exported?
What are the top countries?
2/3 of Chablis is exported
UK is by far the biggest destination, followed by US, Japan, Sweden, Canada
Describe the climate of Burgundy (not including Chablis and Beaujolais)
Distance from Med
Rainfall and mitigation factor(s)
Moderate continental (N end is around 500km/ 300mi from the Mediterranean
Cold winters, warm, relatively short summers
Avg rainfall 700mm
In the Côte d’Or, the Morvan hills to the W provide protection from rainfall
Early autumn is typically dry, though rain can be a threat at harvest
The Mâconnais is typically slightly drier and warmer than the Côte d’Or
What are the key factors that influence the potential quality of individual sites in Burgundy?
Aspect
Altitude
Degree of slope
Soils
What is one of the biggest challenges for Pinot Noir growers in the Burgundy region?
Even though the climate is warming, ripening Pinot Noir is still a precarious biz
A cool vintage can result in under-ripe tannins in the finished wine
Therefore, promoting the ripeness of the skins and seeds is a priority for growers in the region
What are the key factors influencing yield and quality in Burgundy?
Vineyard site
The particular weather of each vintage
Variability of weather from year to year leads to marked vintage variation
Frost may substantially reduce yields if they occur after bud burst, particularly since both Chardonnay and PN are early budding
Hail can be a problem throughout the growing season, leading to reduced yields or fruit damage which can lead to grey rot
What can be done to combat the hail threat in Burgundy
Historically, hail netting was not allowed because was thought to cause too much shading and appear an inauthentic part of the landscape
However, the limited use of anti-hail netting has been permitted from June 2018
Beyond nets, the most common preventative action is to seed thunderclouds w/ silver iodide to induce precipitation some distance form the vineyards under threat
Describe how rain can be a problem during different parts of the growing season (in Burgundy)
Early in the growing cycle, it can disrupt flowering and fruit set, lowering yields and leading to uneven ripening
Extended periods of rain during the growing season increase the threat of fungal disease
Too much rain just before harvest can lead to dilution b/c of uptake of water by the vine, and increase chance of rot
What can be done in Burgundy when there is a hot, dry vintage?
Irrigation is not permitted
Vineyards with high clay content cope better with water-stress due to their water-retaining properties
So, basically, not much. Berries can shrivel and sometimes vines shut down completely, halting ripening
What are considered to be the most critical factors which determine style and quality of wines in Côte d’Or?
Describe how these play out in the region
Aspect and elevation of the various vineyards
Côte d’Or lies on a range of hills oriented N to S at elevations ranging from 200M above sea level to around 400M
Side valleys are oriented in a more E to W direction at various points along the main slope
So, while the main ridge of the Côte d’Or is basically E-facing, there are a range of aspects, many of which are more SE or even S-facing
The best sites are generally mid-slope, benefiting from well-draining, shallow soils, good sunlight interception, as well as comparative frost protection and better ripening due to central position
Why are center slope vineyards generally thought to be better than top or bottom of slope?
Top of slope can have very poor, thin soil and be exposed to cooling winds
Bottom of slope have deeper soils and vulnerable to frost
In general, what are the coolest sites in Burgundy used for?
- often planted to Aligoté, or used for the production of Crémant de Bourgogne
Where are the best SE-facing aspects in Côte Chalonnaise? Mâconnais?
Côte Chalonnaise: Bouzeron and Rully with some of the best SE-facing slopes
Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, typically on slopes w/ S-facing aspect
Describe the soils of Burgundy (not inclusive of Chablis or Beaujolais)
How does it vary by region?
In general, mixtures of various types of limestone and clay, though the proportions vary
Côte de Nuits is more dominated by limestone (majority of highly regarded PN grown here)
Côte de Beaune has more clay and the soils are deeper (majority of the most highly regarded Chardonnay comes from here)
Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais are mixed w/ a range of limestones and clay. The depth of the soil above the bedrock varies significantly due in part to the movement of the soils down the slopes from erosion
What soil challenge is faced in Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais?
How does this vary?
What implications?
Erosion
Source of continuing problems, even in gently sloping vineyards such as the walled Clos de Vougeot
There are thinner soils at higher elevations, so there is too little soil for vines to thrive
At the bottom, drainage is poorer and the soil is deeper with more clay, resulting in greater fertility. This leads to more vigor with an increased danger of shading, so grapes can be less ripe
Where is well-regarded Aligoté grown?
- Village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise
Describe the Chardonnay grape
Budding & Ripening
Yields
Susceptibility
Versatile b/c suited to a range of climates
Buds early, —> susceptible to spring frost
Ripens early — suitable to grow in a cool regions
Can produce high yields w/o loss of quality
Grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage, grapevine yellows
What is the main challenge of growing Chardonnay in a good season?
Vigor management to avoid excess yield and shading which could reduce the quality of the fruit
Compare a cool climate Chardonnay (such as from Chablis) with one from a more moderate climate (such as Côte d’Or)
Cool: apple, pear, lemon & lime w/ wet stones, L to M body and High acidity
Moderate: ripe citrus, melon & stone fruit, M to M+ body, M+ to High acidity
Describe the Pinot Noir grape
Budding & Ripening
Yields
Susceptibility
Buds early —> susceptible to spring frost
Ripens early —> suitable to grow in cool regions
Unlike Chardonnay, yields must be limited to produce quality wines
Delicate; prone to millerandage, downy & powdery mildew, botrytis, fan leaf & leaf roll viruses
In warm climates, tends to ripen too fast (reducing intensity of aromas), and the berries can shrivel and suffer from sunburn
In Burgundy, the concern is more likely whether the fruit will ripen sufficiently to achieve desired ripeness (tannins, color, and flavor)
What clones are common for both red and white Burgundy?
Many of the clones used are drawn from the Dijon clone families, developed at the University of Burgundy in Dijon
These clones are now widely used in many wine regions around the world growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
How do clones vary?
Clones vary in a # of aspects such as…
Yield
Disease tolerance
Speed of ripening
Fruit characteristics
Why might a producer decide to plant a single clone? Why might they plant multiple?
Single clone: more uniform fruit profile
Mix: greater diversity in grape characteristics (whether good or bad) and potentially more resistance to disease
Describe the profile of a red Burgundy
Typically strawberry, raspberry, and red cherry flavors
Village wines and above have light, oak-driven flavors (smoke, clove),
Low to M tannins (grand cru wines can have M+)
Medium alcohol
High acidity
Can develop earth, game and mushroom notes w/ time in bottle
How are vines typically pruned/trained in Burgundy?
Some vines are pruned using Cordon training systems, including Cordon de Royat
This limits vigor and thus yields, although the high proportion of old wood can harbor disease
Traditionally, vines were pruned, trained and trellised using the Guyot system (replacement-cane pruned with VSP). In recent years, many growers have returned to this method, as well as an even softer method of cane pruning known as Poussard-Guyot (reduces # of pruning wounds to cut down on Esca and other trunk diseases; requires skilled vineyard workers, aids canopy mgmt)
