Ch18 Central IT Flashcards
What are the 4 central wine regions of IT? What are the common grapes?
Tuscany, Abruzzo, Marche, Umbria
Sangiovese, Trebbiano Toscano
What makes Tuscany a historic, prestigious region of C IT wine?
its first wine exports to other regions of IT and Mediterranean countries dates back to Etruscan period (7th century BCE)
What has been an issue for Tuscan wines, historically?
What measures have been taken?
concerns over consistent quality
In 1444, a prohibition on picking grapes before a certain date was issued to protect the quality of wine coming from Chianti
Grand Duke Cosimo III de’Medici designated 4 regions of wine production in Tuscany in 1716, a precursor to modern geographic indications
In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli (later PM of IT) recommended that Sangiovese should be the dominant variety in Chianti and that white Malvasia could be used to soften wines for early drinking
Sharecropping hindered quality improvements as farmers had to give 1/2 of crop to owner, reducing incentive to improve qual
What key historic dates are associated w/ the style of Chianti?
1444, prohibition on picking grapes before certain date
1716, 4 regions designated (precursor to geographic indications)
1872, Sangiovese recommended as dominant variety, w/ Malvasia to soften for earlier drinking
1932, much-enlarged area, Chianti DOCG w/ 7 sub-zones, w/ Chianti Classico given to original, hilly Chianti
DOC of 1967 proportion white req’d
How does Chianti region compare to Chianti Classico?
Chianti expanded greatly in 1932
Much of extended Chianti does not share the same soils or elevation as Chianti Classico
What hindered quality of Chianti until after WWII
Sharecropping was a factor
Landowners allowed farmers to use land in return for 1/2 of crop
This provided little incentive for farmers to improve quality
What led to an improvement in quality after WWII in Chianti?
Aristocratic owners of estates were joined by investors, first from IT, then from around the world
This transformed the level of investment in the wine biz
When did Super Tuscans some on the scene? Who pioneered?
in 1968 Sassicaia
In 1971 Tignanello
This inspired a category that led to many similar wines in the 1980s
How are Super Tuscans different from most Tuscan wines?
made from BDX varieties (or included them)
Aged in FRO barriques, not traditional large casks
Made in a style that appealed to int’l markets — deep color, fruity, w/ vanilla and sweet spice notes from FRO
Quality level did not match up to the “pyramid” — had to be released as Vino da Tavola (lowest classification) b/c did not conform to regional rules
What are larger casks called in Tuscany
Botti
They also use Tonneaux
Describe the climate of Tuscany
Rainfall timing
Mitigating factors
Hazards
generally warm Mediterranean
Adequate rainfall, falling mostly in AU and WI, but some in growing season
Altitude inland is important cooling influence
Inland SU can be hot, WI can be cold
Hazards = occasional SP frost, hail, rain during harvest, SU drought, prolonged high temps (leading to cessation of photosynthesis —> incomplete ripening
What % of IT vines are Sangiovese?
What % do they represent in Tuscany?
In IT, ~10% of all vines are Sangiovese making it the most planted variety
In Tuscany, it is also most planted, at ~64%
What is the profile of a Sangiovese-based wine?
M Ruby
M int
Red cherry, red plum, herbal
H acid
H tannin
M to Full body
A to O, $ to $$$ w/ some $$$$
What other names does Sangiovese have in Tuscany?
Brunello (di Montalcino)
Morellino (di Scansano)
Prugnolo Gentile (Montepulciano)
Describe the Sangiovese grape
Budding & ripening
Skins
Susceptibilities
Vigor
yields
Where it grows best
reputation for being difficult to grow successfully
Buds early -> frost risk
Ripens late —> AU rain risk
Vigorous —> needs canopy trimming to avoid shading
Thin skins —> susceptible to botrytis bunch rot
High yielding so pruning, cluster thinning, green harvesting can reduce yield to increase quality
Does best on sunny, S and SE facing slopes for ripening
Describe the best sites for Sangiovese in Tuscany
does best on sunny S & SE facing slopes
Better quality tends to be grown btw 200-550M, although this risks rain at harvest
W/ climate change, some growers are going higher or for less sunny aspects
Does best on friable, shall and limestone soils (for excellent drainage), and reasonably successful on clay
What is/are the key training system(s) for Sangiovese in central IT?
Cordons pruned to spurs
Cane pruned w/ VSP
How has the choice of clones evolved for Sangiovese in Tuscany?
there is a large choice of clones avail
Growers have been replacing choices that were for producing high yields w/ ones w/ more moderate yielding, higher quality clones, or using mass selection from best performing plants
What is the “Chianti Classico 2000 Project”?
produced 7 clones that have been widely planted
Aims were smaller berries, thicker skins, more open bunches to produce wines w/ deeper color, more fl int, and greater disease resistance
Newer releases are popular for vines w/ less vigor —> less labor intensive
What has become a significant hazard for Sangiovese in Tuscany? What is being done?
Esca
Growers learning to avoid large cuts in old wood to reduce vulnerability
More skilled methods of pruning to reduce threat
What pest is a problem in Tuscany?
How is it handled
Wild boar
Fencing
Describe the Trebbiano Toscano grape in Tuscany
Budding
Vigor & yield
Susceptibilities
late budding —> not vulnerable to SP frost
Vigorous and high yielding
Prone to downy mildew and eutypa dieback, but otherwise good disease resistance
Describe Trebbiano Toscano wines
Acidity and flavors
Alias
retains high acidity
Neutral flavors — M(-) lemon, herbal
Ugni Blanc
Why has Trebbiano Toscano’s popularity changed?
high yielding and reliable was valued in the past for bulk wine
Declining popularity due to lack of fruitiness and low int
Additionally, increased demand for red wine means it has been replaced by black grape plantings
What are popular uses for Trebbiano Toscano
high acidity makes it important part of blend for sweet Vin Santo
Regularly blended w/ other varieties for that wine
Wha varieties are used to blend w/ Sangiovese?
Most Tuscan DOC(G)s allow Sangiovese to be blended w/ a small proportion of other black varieties
Local options, such as Canaiolo
Int’l varieties, incl CS, CF, Merlot, Syrah
What does Canaiolo Nero contribute to Tuscan wines?
red berried fruit and floral
Only light tannins
Brings out the floral and red-berried character of Sangiovese
Why do some feel that Merlot and CS should not be blended w/ Sangiovese?
they feel these grapes are too dominant in the taste of the final wine, even in small proportions
Describe the winemaking of Sangiovese in the past
historically, blend could include white varieties
Typically kept on skins for very long periods (30+ days)
Aged in large, neutral oak casks for extended time (3-4 yr) to soften tannins
How is Sangiovese made now?
absence of white grapes
Maceration times reduced to 7-10 days (vs 30+ of past) for early drinking and 15-25 for wines intended to age
Use of temp controlled SS fermentation to preserve primary fruit; concrete also making a comeback
Latter decades of last century saw widespread use of new oak —> layer of vanilla + sweet spice
Since 2000s, return to older barriques, 500L tonneaux and traditional large, neutral oak cask
Aim to focus on subtle cherry flavor of fruit vs oak flavor
$ wine is aged for short period in SS
Describe the area of Chianti DOCG
large area that covers much of Central Tuscany
Surrounds the smaller Chianti Classico
Hilly, although many vineyards at lower elevations (<300m)
How many sub-zones are there of Chianti?
- Seven (7) sub-zones, w/ tighter regs
What rules apply to Chianti DOCG wines?
If w/in one of 7 sub-zones, may bottle w/ sub-zone name
70-100% Sangiovese
Blending varieties may be local or int’l
CS & or CF may not be > 15%
10% white still allowed but rarely used
Min alcohol 11.5%, although sub zones mostly req 12%
Max yield 63 hL/ha (moderately high)
What accounts for the difference in price of Chianti vs Chianti Classico?
moderately high yield of Chianti — 63 hL/ha vs Classico at 56
Less intensive work in the vineyard
Shorter aging (Chianti can be released for sale in March following vintage)
Maturation in large format SS or old oak leading to light to M flavor intensity at lower cost
Describe the profile of an early drinking Chianti DOCG
M body
M alcohol
$ to $$
A to G
No oak aging req’d
Can be released Mar following vintage
What aging req’s are there for Chianti DOCG? Riserva?
Chianti DOCG can be released in March following the vintage
Riserva must be aged for 2 years
No oak aging is req’d except in some sub-zoned
Name 3 of the 7 sub-zones of Chianti
Chianti Rufina DOCG
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG (Chianti from the Florentine hills)
In general, how do the sub-zones of Chianti differ from Chianti?
lower max yields — for ex: Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 56 hL/ha versus 63
For Riserva wines, at least 6 mo of aging must be in oak
How do wines from Chianti Rufina DOCG differ from Chianti? Why?
small zone is coolest due to combo of altitude (~350M) and cooling winds from Apennnines
Results in higher acid, more restrained fruit when young but w/ capacity to age
How do Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG wines differ?
Largest of the sub-zones
Generally warmer
Produces fuller bodied, richer wines
Req’s higher % Sangiovese (min 75%) and less of the Cabs (max 10% singly or together)
Describe Chianti Classico DOCG
hilly area between Florence and Siena
Best wines come from 200-500m
Elevation = cool nights, lengthening growing season, promoting full ripeness w/ high acid
Soils = Schistous, crumbly rock w/ clay & marl known as “galestro”; calcareous soils w/ clay (known as “alberese”; and sandstone and sandy soils. Together = good drainage w/ sufficient water holding
Describe the soil of Chianti Classico said to give aromatic wines w/ potential to age
Galestro
Schistous, crumbly rock w/ clay and marl
Which soils of Chianti Classico are thought to give wines w/ more structure & body
- soils w/ more clay
What is the name for the soils of Chianti Classico that are calcareous w/ clay
- Albarese
What rules apply to Chianti Classico DOCG?
min 80% Sangiovese, though most are ~90% w/ wide variety of supplementary, both local (eg Canaiolo) or int’l (esp Merlot)
Not white varieties permitted
Max yield 52.5 hL/ha
Cannot be released b4 oct in yr following harvest (adds $$$)
Label may mention single vineyard
Wines grown in this area may NOT be labeled as Chianti DOCG
Key village names not currently allowed
What are the styles of Chianti Classico and what led to these differences?
rise of Super Tuscans in 1980s-90s led to wine being made in a more “International Style” — deeper color, plummy fruit from presence of Merlot, evident vanilla from New oak
Recent trend to more traditional style: paler color, sour cherry from dominant Sangiovese, restrained new oak
Describe a typical Chianti Classico DOCG wine
M fl w/ some pronounced examples
$$ to $$$, G to O
What are the rules for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione? When was it intro’d?
intro’d 2013
Grapes must come from single vineyard or estate owned by at the producer
Aged min 30 mo (no wood req)
Where is Brunello di Montalcino DOCG?
When was the wine first bottled?
First producer?
Who led expansion?
S Tuscany
Named after town
First bottled and sold in 1865 by the Biondi-Santi family who remained the only commercial producer until WWII
Since WWII, huge explosion, led by Banfi (originated as an importing co in USA)
How have the # of producers and ha changed in Brunello di Montalcino from1960s to today?
in 1960s, 11 producers, 65 ha
Today, >250 producers, 2100 ha
How does the Brunello di Montalcino region compare to that of Chianti Classico
BdM is drier and warmer, protected from rain by Monte Amiata to the S
BdM produces wines w/ ripe fruit, full body, high alcohol
What helps the wines of Brunello di Montalcino retain acidity ?
- cooling breezes at night from the Mediterranean Sea (40 km away)
Describe the terroir of Brunello di Montalcino
Elevation varies — longest est’d area are >500m, while other parts are much lower (min 120m)
Majority is hilly
Soils are variable; N part is Galestro-based w/ higher elevations leading to more aromatic wines; More clay in lower, warmer S part, which = fuller body
What rules apply to Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
must be 100% Sangiovese
Max yield 54 hL/ha
Req extended aging: may not be released until 1 Jan, 5 yr after harvest, incl 2 yr oak (for Riserva, 6 yr w/ 2 in oak) —> $$$ due to investment in oak and need to store it
Label may mention name of single vineyard
Describe a typical Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wine
Intense sour cherry
High acid & tannin (age capacity)
Complexity even upon release due to tertiary notes developed in long initial aging
$$$ to $$$$, O quality
Why do Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wines typically show complexity even upon release
because of long min aging reqs (min 5 yr, 2 in oak) which develops tertiary prior to release
Name significant producers of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Casanova di Neri
Soldera
Describe Rosso di Montalcino DOC
100% Sangiovese from same area as Brunello
Often made from young vines or less promising sites
Aged briefly in SS or oak to preserve primary fruit and can be sold after 1 year
Mid price, G to VG
Can be used to declassify Brunello di Montalcino in difficult yrs
Where is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG?
Where are vineyards planted?
SE Tuscany between Montalcion and the border w/ Umbria
Vines planted on E & SE facing slopes at 250-600M
How do higher elevation wined from Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG differ and why?
higher elevations produce more aromatic wines
Due to longer ripening season
What are the soils of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG and how do the wines differ?
heavy, cool clay —> fuller body wines
Sand —> more aromatic
How do the styles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG wines vary?
Traditionally, full bodied & austere, req aging in bottle
Some have been working to produce wines that can be drunk in youth via shorter extraction, use of small format FRO for maturation
What rules apply to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG?
Must be 70-100% Sangiovese
Max yield 56 hL/ha
Aged min 2 yr from 1 Jan after vintage w/ mandatory 12-24 mo in wood (adds cost)
Riserva must be aged 3 yr (but no add’l wood req)
Names of vineyards may be included on label
What is Rosso di Montepulciano?
like Rosso di Montalcino, it is a category for less $$ wines for early drinking
Significant producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Avignonesi
Contucci
Describe Morello de Scansano DOCG? Where?
Close to coast of S Tuscany
Warm area moderated by altitude (avg 250m) and cooling winds from sea at night
Describe the wines of Morello de Scansano DOCG
Wines have ripe fruit, some black fruit notes, w/ sour cherry
M to M+ acid
Ripe M+ tannins
G to VG
$ to $$
What reqs for Morello de Scansano DOCG?
min 85% Sangiovese
Max yield 63 hL/ha (like Chianti)
Where is Bolgheri DOC? How many ha?
Wine style(s)
densely planted denomination
On Tuscan coast
Specializing in BDX blends, though single variety wines, whites and rosé also made
1200 ha
Describe the climate of Bolgheri DOC
Warm w/ cool nights due to proximity to sea (leads to fully ripe grapes)
Winds from sea help reduce fungal disease risk
Rain sufficient and well distributed thru year, but relatively little during harvest
Is irrigation allowed in Bolgheri?
- yes, as in other Tuscan denominations, irrigation is allowed
How are vines trained in Bolgheri?
typically cordon-trained, spur pruned w/ VSP
Easy to maintain to produce high quality fruit
Densities ~6k/ha (higher than most of Traditional areas of Tuscany) —> creates competition to reduce yield and increase concentration
How were vines from Bolgheri labeled before the DOC was created?
- often as vino da tavola as there was no DOC until 1983
What rules apply to Bolgheri DOC wines?
up to 100% CS, CF, Merlot
Up to 50% Syrah and Sangiovese
Up to 30% other varieties such as PV
CS dominates the blends
63 hL/ha for Bolgheri Rosso, released from Sept of yr after harvest
56 hL/ha for Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, min 2 yr age, at least 1 in oak; typically aged in FR barriques w/ significant % new
Small amounts of white made, esp Vermentino
Describe a typical Bolgheri Rosso Superiore wine
deep ruby
M+ to pronounced int
Blackberry, red plum, sometimes w/ green bell pepper notes in cooler years, w/ vanilla and sweet spice from oak
M+ acid
High tannins
VG to O, $$$ to $$$$
Describe Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC
Reqs
separate DOC for the single estate, Tenuta San Guido which produces Sassicaia (owned by Frescobaldi family)
Min 80% CS
Min 2 yr age, 18 mo of which in 225L oak barrels
Name some famous wines of Bolgheri
Sassacaia
Ornellaia
Solaia
What is the DOC that covers the Provence of Grosseto, adjacent to the coast of S Tuscany known for a wide range of varieties, both local and int’l
- Maremma Toscana DOC
What historic white wine of Tuscany was the recipient of Italy’s first DOC in 1966 (now DOCG)
- Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
When do mentions of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG date back to?
- mentioned several times in the middle ages
Where is Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG?
- within the western side of Chianti DOCG
What is the climate of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG?
Dry summers
Windy, reducing fungal disease
Where are the vineyards of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG?
planted on hillsides btw 200-400m, giving good sunlight interception and drainage
Describe the wines of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
made from white Vernaccia of same name
Min 85% w/ up to 10% SB and Riesling
Typically M int
Lemon and floral
M+ acid
$ to $$ w/ a few $$$
What are the soils of Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG?
- typically grown on local sandstone soils
Describe the Vernaccia grape
ripens mid to late in the season
Can produce high yields, max 63 hL/ha for DOCG
Describe the market for Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Local sales?
Exports? Top markets
has remained stable over last 15 yr to 2018
Large local market to tourists visiting the famous town w/ 14 medieval towers
Over 30% is sold locally
Half exported, w/ US, GER, CH being biggest markets
Describe Toscana IGT
Can be used to declassify wines from DOC(G) or for higher yields
Any registered grape variety/ies may be used and grapes can be grown anywhere in Tuscany
Most wines are $ to $$, but some of most expensive and prestigious wines are labeled as this, including Masseto (Merlot from Frescobaldi’s Tenuta dell’Ornellaia) and Solaia (CS/Sangiovese/ CF from Antinori)
What is the name for the CS/Sangiovese/ CF blend from Antinori?
How is it labeled /designated?
Solaia
Toscana IGT
What is the name for the Merlot from Frescobaldi’s Tenuta dell’Ornellaia?
How is it labeled /designated?
Masseto
Toscana IGT
Describe Tuscan Vin Santo
Amber
Sweet
Made by appassimento method (dried grapes off the vine)
Most often a blend of Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia
Style permitted in several denominations
What rules apply to Vin Santo
Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia, singly or combined, must be min of 60% in Vin Santo Chianti Classico DOC
Min aging 2 yr in Chianti Classico, 3 in Montepulciano, but often exceeded
How is Vin Santo in Tuscany made?
Traditionally grapes were dried in loft of the house
Juice fermented
Wine aged in small barrels sealed and stored unopened in the loft for many years (5-10 yr)
Describe Tuscan Vin Santo wine
combo of rising and falling temps and oxidative aging w/o topping up leads to amber color + complex palate
Dried fruit (apricot, lemon), nutty, variable level of VA
Sweet but w/ balancing high acidity
M+ to high alcohol
$$$ to $$$$ due to small batch production
What is Occio di Pernice? What does it mean
red version of Tuscan Vin Santo
Means “eye of the partridge”
What is the name for Tuscan Vin Santo made from red grapes
- Occio di Pernice
What % of wine in Tuscany is DOC(G)?
What % of that is Chianti? Chianti Classico?
How does this compare w/ by value?
around 65% of all wine production in Tuscany is DOC(G)
Of that, Chianti accounts for nearly half, w/ Chianti Classico the next biggest (~20%?)
In terms of value, Chianti Classico leads at 112MM Euro, followed by Chianti at 87MM Euro
How does the structure of the industry differ across Tuscany (esp as related to coops)?
about 15% of Chianti is Co-op
Chianti Classico is only about 6% co-op
Montalcino is only about 1% co-op
There are no coops in Bolgheri
What are the key channels for wines of Chianti DOCG?
Chianti DOCG — supermarkets & deep discounters, 1/2 of wine is 0.75L w/ next most implant format the “brick,” typically 500mL to 1L (nearly 30%), reflecting low avg price; highest selling red wine by volume and value
What are the main export markets for Tuscany?
for Chianti Classico, exports are nearly 80%, w/ main markets USA (33%), GER, CAN
Montalcino exports 70% by value, w/ USA and CAN main
Nearly 80% of Montepulciano is exported, w/ GER, USA, CH main markets
Just under 70% of Chianti DOCG is exported, mainly at low prices, to GER, USA, UK
How does the route to market for Tuscan wine vary for inexpensive wines vs premium?
inexpensive wines that will be sold through supermarkets and inexpensive bars & restaurants
Mid to super-premium wines sill be sold through specialist wine shops and higher price restaurants
What are the key references for marketing Tuscan wines
Chianti Classico and Montepulciano are promoted w/ reference to their place in Tuscan wine history
Montalcion and Bolgheri are promoted as wines of world-class quality
Wine tourism and construction of architecturally ambitious wineries have been a marked feature since the 1990s, building on Tuscany’s reputation as a highly desirable holiday destination
What is the once-a-year Tuscan event for buyers and wine journalists to taste the new Tuscan vintage?
- called “Anteprima”
Describe the location of Marche
Central IT
Extends from Adriatic to Apennines
Emilia Romagna to N
Tuscany to W
Abruzzo to S
What type(s) of wine(s) do you expect from Marche?
red wines from blends of Montepulciano and Sangiovese (the latter used primarily for blending only)
White wines from Verdicchio
Mainly $ to $$, w/ Riserva wines attracting $$$ prices
Describe the climate of Marche
Mediterranean, w/ hot summers and very little rain in SU
Inland (W of Ancona) climate is more continental w/ helpful dry AU
What are the main soils of Marche
Similar to Tuscany
Principally limestone & clay, w/ good balance btw free draining and sufficient water retention for dry SU
What are the main 3 grapes of Marche?
What other grapes play a role?
Main
Red: Sangiovese, Montepulciano
White: Verdicchio
Others
- White: Biancame, Trebbiano Toscano, Passerina, Pecorino (?)
Describe the Verdicchio grape
Ripening —> Implications
Acidity
Susceptible
Late ripening
Retains high acid
Needs to be given a long time to ripen —> risk of late rains
Susceptible: powdery & downy mildew, botrytis bunch rot
Why is Verdicchio planted at low densities
needs to be given space b/c the 1st 4 buds are sterile
Therefore, it is planted at low densities
Describe Verdicchio wines from Marche
How does this differ from entry level to Riserva wines?
pale lemon color (of course, will oxidize w/ age)
M(-) int
Blossom, apple, lemon, fennel, almond
Slightly bitter finish
High acid
M body
Whole quality range from A to O
Entry level does not go thru MLF, aged 4-6 mo in SS, bottled early
Riserva wines may get MLF for creamier acidity, often aged on lees in old oak barrels for add’l texture (no oak flavor); develop dried fruit & mushroom w/ age
What are the 2 main denominations for Verdicchio in Marche?
What are key differences?
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC — lowest hills W of Ancona in valley w/ clay & limestone = floral fruity wines; 10x larger
Verdicchio di Materica DOC — higher zone in foothills of Apennines —> higher acidity, sandstone w/ less clay so faster draining; marginally lower yields (91 vs 98); wines are fuller body, higher acidity, less fruity
Describe the location of Verdicchio die Castelli di Jesi DOC
In the low hills west of Ancona
Marche
What are the rules for Verdicchio die Castelli di Jesi DOC?
Classico?
Riserva?
Max 98 hL/ha (compared to 91 for Matelica)
Classico reserved for grapes from historic heart of region + lower yields @ 77 hL/ha
Riserva promoated to DOCG, requires min 18mo aging but does not have to be oak
What are the rules for Verdicchio di Matelica DOC?
Max yield 91 hL/ha
Riserva DOCG req’s 12.5% abv and 18 mo aging which may be but doesn’t have to be oak
Describe growing of Pecorino in Marche
Susceptible
Training
Productivity
Ripening —> implications
High disease resistance
Like Verdicchio, best trained long (Guyot or Pergola) as it has sterile buds near trunk
Clonal selección has focused on rectifying its low productivity
Ripens early —> avoids late rains and can be vinified b4 other local varieties, making space avail in winery
Where is Pecorino mainly planted in Marche?
Mostly in the south of Marche, as well as in Abruzzo
Describe Pecorino wines of Marche
Tend to be high alcohol (14.5%) due to low productivity
Can be balanced by high acidity
Herbal notes of sage, thyme, mint w/ crisp apple and pear
M body
Some released early to retain primary fruit
Minority aged 12-18 mo in old oak barrels for texture
What denominations can Pecorino of Marche be labeled as?
Marche IGT
Offida Pecorino DOCG if grown in line w/ regulations
Describe Passerina grape in Marche and Abruzzo
Good disease resistance
High production
Ripens later than Pecorino —> vulnerable to late season rain
naturally high acidity but can lose acidity quickly once fully mature, therefore needs to be harvested on schedule
Describe Passerina wine in Marche and Abruzzo
naturally high acidity but can lose acidity quickly once fully mature
Ripe lemon and yellow apple
What denominations can Passerina of Marche be labeled as?
Marche IGT
Offida Passerina DOCG if grown in line w/ regulations
Describe Biancame in Marche
local variety
Makes fresh and crisp white wines for local consumption
Describe the Montepulciano grape in Marche
Susceptible
Ripening
resistant to botrytis and downy mildew but susceptible to powdery mildew
Needs a long seaason to ripen fully & avoid bitterness
Tends to ripen unevenly w/ in bunches —> can lead to lower quality, or higher costs to carefully select
Describe Montepulciano winemaking in Marche
High quality wines tend to be 70-85% Montepulciano, often blended w/ Sangiovese
Susceptible to developing reductive sulfur compounds during winemaking so req’s frequent aeration to avoid the development of off odors
Maceration times depend on style being made: short/ 4-5 days for simpler, lighter wines; longer/ ~20 days for higher qual but care must be taken not to extract too much tannin
Describe Montepulciano wines of Marche
Deep ruby color
Can be reductive (sulfur)
2 styles
ripe, M int, red cherry w/ no oak; M body, M tannins (short maceration)
M+ to pronounced intensity cherry & black plum fruit w/ oak aromas, M+ tannins (long maceration(~20 days) of top qual fruit w/ aging in oak, typically large vessels)
What are the DOC(G)s in Marche related to Montepulciano?
Basic Req’s
Rosso Piceno DOC (35-85% Montepulciano) — large area of middle of Marche
Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC: higher quality, from 13 townships in Ascoli Piceno Provence in S of region; req slightly higher alc level and min 1 yr age
Offida Rosso DOCG: 85-100% Montepulciano; aged min 24 mo w/ min 12 of that in oak
Rosso Conero and Conero Riserva DOCG: Min 85% Montepulciano If Riserva, blend can only be Sangiovese if used, and min 2 yr aging (of which 1 in wood)
What does Sangiovese contribute to blends w/ Montepulciano
mainly high acidity and high tannins
Red cherry fruit
What % of Marche wine is exported?
Markets
about 1/3 by value is exported
USA, CAN, China and Japan are leading export markets
How has the export market for Verdicchio changed in recent years?
Inexpensive Verdicchio has been overtaken by the popularity of PG from other regions
Has led to a marked drop in the area planted
Challenge is to build an int’l reputation for quality rather than quantity
Describe Umbria terroir
Landlocked region S of Tuscany in IT
Predominantly hilly landscape
Similar climate to inland hilly part of Tuscany
What are the key grape varieties of Umbria?
Grows varieties common to Central IT as well as Orvieto and Montefalco Sagrantino
Red
Sangiovese
Merlot
Sagrantio
CS
White
Trebbiano Toscano
Grechetto di Orvieto
Describe the climate of Umbria
General
Rain: amount, timing and implications
Warm, mild continental climate
Hot summers —> can lead to heat stress
800mm rain, mainly in AU and WI —> lessens fungal risk, but can risk harvest (although sufficiently dry for late harvest & botrytized styles)
Describe the Grachetto grape in Umbria
White
Thick-skinned + fungal resistant —> suitable for late harvest
Resistant to downy mildew
Describe wines of Grachetto di Orvieto
Low to M int
Lemon, white flower
High acid
M body
What red/black variety is a specialty of Umbria?
Sagrantino
Describe the Sagrantino grape
Key characteristics
Yields
Susceptibility
Black/red
Needs full sunshine and heat to ripen
Moderately productive
Tiny spiders that can live on hairy underside of leaves and reduce veg growth
Vine moths
Downy & powdery mildew, depending on conditions
Where is Sagrantino generally grown?
How is it trained?
specialty of Umbria
Principally on hillside sites, 220-470m for best sunlight interception and drainage
Guyot or cordon w/ spurs and VSP trellised
Describe the wines of Sagrantino
deep ruby
M+ to pronounced blackberry, red plum
High acidity
High tannins which req long aging
Describe Orvieto DOC rules
situated on W edge of Umbria and small extension into Lazio
Classico zone around town w/ same name
Min 60% Trebbiano Toscano &/or Grechetto
Grown 100-550m
Better wines include more Grachetto for greater fl int
Max 77 hL/ha (Superiore 56 hL/ha)
Can be dry, off-dry or sweet
Describe Orvieto DOC wines
Can be dry, off-dry or sweet
M(-) fl int
Lemon, apple
Top end of M alc
M+ acid
Light body
A to G, $ to $$
What are late harvest wines from Umbria called?
- Vendemmia tardiva
What are wines made from grapes w/ noble rot from Umbria called?
- muffa nobile
What are the rules for Rosso di Montefalco DOC
Blend of Sangiovese (60-70%) w/ Sagrantino (10-15%) and other permitted varieties
Max yield 77 hL/ha
Min 18 mo age
What are the rules for Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG?
must be 100% Sagrantino
Max 52 hL/ha
Min 37 mo age, at least 1 yr wood
Single vineyard wines may include name of vineyard on label
Describe winemaking of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
How has it changed over the years?
as w/ other areas in IT, very long maceration (e.g. 2 mo) used to be normal
Now, these have been reduced to 2-3 weeks to avoid extraction of harsh tannins
Some soften wines by aging in NFRO barriques (Arnaldo Carpai, 2 yrs in barriques) while others prefer traditional large casks followed by extended bottle age
What % of Montefalco Sagrantio DOCG is exported?
Top markets?
about 60% exported
USA, GER, CAN
What is the trend for Montefalco Sagrantio DOCG?
production has grown rapidly
Ha under vine quadrupled to 65o ha between 2000-2015
What effort is associated w/ the Montefalco consortium?
initiated a series of projects to raise the std of grape growing across the denomination
Created a network of weather stations, collected and processed the data and made in available so that growers could be informed of impending threats of disease
This has enabled growers to reduce # of treatments in the vineyard and amount of chem used
What movement is associated w/ Umbria?
Name some leaders?
Sustainability
Barberani in Orvieto DOC for organic viticulture
Lungarotti for energy from biomass
Arnaldo Caprai for sustainability
Where is Lazio?
Why is it important relative to wine?
Central IT
Includes city of Rome
Historically important in Etruscan and Roman times
Has continued to provide locally made wines to the city
Today known principally for whites (~70%)
What % of Lazio wine is white? What are the key white varieties
about 70% white
Malvasia and Trebbiano Toscao
What are the main red varieties of Lazio?
- mainly Merlot, Sangiovese and the local variety Cesanese
Describe the climate of Lazio
Weather hazards?
warm, Mediterranean
Moderated by altitude on low hills (up to 300M so not high)
Also moderated by cooling winds from sea
Occasional spring frost
Hail, excessive heat in SU, and rain during harvest
Rain generally not in SU so low fungal disease
Describe the Malvasia Bianca di Candia grape
White
Good disease resistance
High yields
Prone to oxidation so has to be handled carefully
What does Malvasia Bianca di Candia contribute to blends?
M(-) int
Lemon and apple
M alc
M+ acid
Light body
Describe the Malvasia del Lazio grape
a cross btw Muscat of Alexandria and a local variety
Contributes grape-y peach flavors
Must be harvested expeditiously as acidity drops quickly
Was commonly planted in Lazio in 1960s-70s but was widely replaced by Malvasia Bianca di Candia and Trebbiano Toscano due to lower yields and lower disease resistance
Describe the Cesanese grape
Black
Semi-aromatic
Very late ripening
High yielding but w/ high qual potential
Prone to powdery mildew
Vulnerable to AU rains, failure to ripen fully
Describe the wines made with Cesanese
pronounced aromas
Red cherry, rose petal
M tannins
M acid
High alcohol
Describe the rules of Frascati DOC
How does Frascati Superiore DOCG differ?
Historically predominantly Malvasia del Lazio
Today, Malvasia del Lazio and/or Malvasia Bianca di Candia, together or singly, must be at least 70%
Can include up to 30% Trebbiano Toscano
High yields permitted (max 105) —> light flavor int
Superiore
lower max yield (77 hL/ha)
Must be aged for 1 year w/ no oak req
Describe winemaking for Frascati DOC
cool ferment temps to retain primary fruit
Stored briefly in SS (to retain fresh fruit) before being released for drinking w/ in 1-2 yr
Describe quality & price for Frascati DOC
Mainly A to G w/ some VG
Most $ to $$
What is Castelli Romani DOC? What rules?
Covers broad area S of Rome
Has many other DOCs w/in it, including Frascati
More white than red
Whites must be Malvasia del Lazio, Malvasia Bianca di Candia or Trebbiano Toscano at up to 120 hL/ha —> light fl int
Describe the red wines made in Lazio
Merlot and Sangiovese are leading grapes by volume & production
Most of these are $ to $$ blends for local drinking
DOCs for Cesanese (eg Cesanese di Affile DOC) allow up to 65-70 hL/ha —> light intensity
Generally neutral vessels
What is the nature of the wine biz in Lazio?
Famous in Roman and Medieval times
Mid to late 20th century emphasis on high volume, inexpensive —> reputation fell, quality decreased
Coops play important role
Mainly service considerable local demand from Rome and its tourists, but there are a # of high quality producers
What % of Frascati is exported? Key markets?
about 60% export
USA, CAN, GER
Where is Abruzzo?
IT’s SE coast
S of Marche
N of Puglia
Where does Abruzzo fall relative to total production w/in IT regions?
it is 5th overall
Behind Veneto
Ahead of Piedmont and Tuscany
Production volume led by co-ops
What is the dominant grape variety of Abruzzo?
Montepulciano at ~55% (so not as dominant as Sangiovese in Tuscany at ~64%)
What are the 3 main wines of Abruzzo?
What others are noteworthy
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo: crisp white w/ high acidity, typically un-oaked
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo: M to M+ body rosé, made from Montepulciano
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: made from Montepulciano
Additionally, makes single varietal wines from Pecorino and Passerina (as seen in Marche to the N)
Describe the climate of Abruzzo
Can be divided into 2 zones: hillside under high Apennines vs flatter coastal zone
Hillsides = warm continental w/ cold snowy WI and warm, short SU w/ cooling mountain influences, slowing sugar accumulation and allowing for aroma/fl dev; spring frost and AU rain risk
Coastal = warm Med; Lower risk of SP frost and AU rain; higher temps, more fertile —> better suited to high volume
Describe vine training and planting densities in Abruzzo
Density used to be low (2500/ ha) and Pergola used to be used
W/ desire for increased quality, densities have increased and new vine training intro’d
Coastal zone, cordon-trained spur-pruned or Guyot more common, allowing for mechanization to keep prices down
Hilside vineyards mostly hand work
Describe the Trebbiano Abruzzese grape
Relation to Trebbiano grapes
Ripening
Vigor and yield
Training
Susceptibility
considerable confusion
Unclear if it is related to any other Trebbiano variety
Aka Trebbiano d’Abbruzzo, but this is the name of the DOC, not the variety
Mod to late ripening
Vigorous
Highly productive
Well suited to pergola training (provides fruit w/ shade)
Prone to powdery Mildew
Describe the rules for Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
can be either or both Trebbiano Abruzzese and Trebbiano Toscano (latter is considered lower quality)
Max 98 hL/ha —> light to M fl int at best
Describe winemaking for Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
typically made protectively
Cool ferment temps
Ambient or cultured yeast
MLF blocked to preserve acid
Typically matured in SS
Describe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines
b/c of high allowable yields (up to 98 hL/ha) can be light to M int at best
Should not have signs of MLF or oak
Typically A to G, w/ a few VG to O
What producer is known for high quality Trebbiano d’Abruzzo?
Valentini
Often regarded as one of IT’s greatest white wines
Commands a $$$$ price
Additionally, Masciarelli
What rules apply to Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
min 85% Montepulciano variety
Describe winemaking of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
can be short maceration (generally up to 12 hr) or direct press; some make as by-product of red (saignée)
Montepulciano variety (which it must be made of) is rich in anthocyanin so maceration times are shot to avoid too much extraction of color
Describe Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo wine
Rosé
Historically M int pink, a much deeper color than many modern rosés
Now made lighter int
M to M+ body
Describe winemaking of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
As in Marche, 2 styles of Montepulciano
Early drinking/ softer: very light extraction via short maceration; up to 15% Merlot or Primativo to complement
High qual: extended time in barrel to allow formidable tannins to soften; may get add’l bottle age; large oak vessels common, w/ some using FRO barriques
What are the 3 levels of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo? How do they differ?
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC: must be grown on hilly sites; yields max 98 hL/ha
5 official sub-zones: max yields 66 hL/ha, req 18 mo aging, 1/2 of which in oak
Colline Termane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG (newer): former sub-zone, same yield as sub-zones (66 hL/ha) but aged min 2 yr, 1 of which in wood
What is unusual about bottling of Abruzzo wines? Why is this seen as a problem?
DOC wines do not have to be bottled in the region of origin
Criticism that this leads to lower qual standards and to the use of wine from Abruzzo to add color and alcohol to red wines in other regions & countries
Describe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines
deep ruby
M int
Red cherry, plum
M+ body
High tannin
Mid priced wines often oak aged
$ to $$ w/ some DOCG VG and $$$
What % of Abruzzo wine is coop?
about 3/4 of wine production comes from the region’s 40 co-op wineries
Describe the export market for Abruzzo wines
exported to N Europe, USA, CAN b/c good value for $
Majority of wines are inexpensive, but a small % are premium/super-premium and sold in specialty shops in IT & abroad
Name top producers of Abruzzo
Valentini (super-premium)
Masciarelli
Co-op Cantina Tollo which exports 35% of its production
