Ch18 Central IT Flashcards
What are the 4 central wine regions of IT? What are the common grapes?
Tuscany, Abruzzo, Marche, Umbria
Sangiovese, Trebbiano Toscano
What makes Tuscany a historic, prestigious region of C IT wine?
its first wine exports to other regions of IT and Mediterranean countries dates back to Etruscan period (7th century BCE)
What has been an issue for Tuscan wines, historically?
What measures have been taken?
concerns over consistent quality
In 1444, a prohibition on picking grapes before a certain date was issued to protect the quality of wine coming from Chianti
Grand Duke Cosimo III de’Medici designated 4 regions of wine production in Tuscany in 1716, a precursor to modern geographic indications
In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli (later PM of IT) recommended that Sangiovese should be the dominant variety in Chianti and that white Malvasia could be used to soften wines for early drinking
Sharecropping hindered quality improvements as farmers had to give 1/2 of crop to owner, reducing incentive to improve qual
What key historic dates are associated w/ the style of Chianti?
1444, prohibition on picking grapes before certain date
1716, 4 regions designated (precursor to geographic indications)
1872, Sangiovese recommended as dominant variety, w/ Malvasia to soften for earlier drinking
1932, much-enlarged area, Chianti DOCG w/ 7 sub-zones, w/ Chianti Classico given to original, hilly Chianti
DOC of 1967 proportion white req’d
How does Chianti region compare to Chianti Classico?
Chianti expanded greatly in 1932
Much of extended Chianti does not share the same soils or elevation as Chianti Classico
What hindered quality of Chianti until after WWII
Sharecropping was a factor
Landowners allowed farmers to use land in return for 1/2 of crop
This provided little incentive for farmers to improve quality
What led to an improvement in quality after WWII in Chianti?
Aristocratic owners of estates were joined by investors, first from IT, then from around the world
This transformed the level of investment in the wine biz
When did Super Tuscans some on the scene? Who pioneered?
in 1968 Sassicaia
In 1971 Tignanello
This inspired a category that led to many similar wines in the 1980s
How are Super Tuscans different from most Tuscan wines?
made from BDX varieties (or included them)
Aged in FRO barriques, not traditional large casks
Made in a style that appealed to int’l markets — deep color, fruity, w/ vanilla and sweet spice notes from FRO
Quality level did not match up to the “pyramid” — had to be released as Vino da Tavola (lowest classification) b/c did not conform to regional rules
What are larger casks called in Tuscany
Botti
They also use Tonneaux
Describe the climate of Tuscany
Rainfall timing
Mitigating factors
Hazards
generally warm Mediterranean
Adequate rainfall, falling mostly in AU and WI, but some in growing season
Altitude inland is important cooling influence
Inland SU can be hot, WI can be cold
Hazards = occasional SP frost, hail, rain during harvest, SU drought, prolonged high temps (leading to cessation of photosynthesis —> incomplete ripening
What % of IT vines are Sangiovese?
What % do they represent in Tuscany?
In IT, ~10% of all vines are Sangiovese making it the most planted variety
In Tuscany, it is also most planted, at ~64%
What is the profile of a Sangiovese-based wine?
M Ruby
M int
Red cherry, red plum, herbal
H acid
H tannin
M to Full body
A to O, $ to $$$ w/ some $$$$
What other names does Sangiovese have in Tuscany?
Brunello (di Montalcino)
Morellino (di Scansano)
Prugnolo Gentile (Montepulciano)
Describe the Sangiovese grape
Budding & ripening
Skins
Susceptibilities
Vigor
yields
Where it grows best
reputation for being difficult to grow successfully
Buds early -> frost risk
Ripens late —> AU rain risk
Vigorous —> needs canopy trimming to avoid shading
Thin skins —> susceptible to botrytis bunch rot
High yielding so pruning, cluster thinning, green harvesting can reduce yield to increase quality
Does best on sunny, S and SE facing slopes for ripening
Describe the best sites for Sangiovese in Tuscany
does best on sunny S & SE facing slopes
Better quality tends to be grown btw 200-550M, although this risks rain at harvest
W/ climate change, some growers are going higher or for less sunny aspects
Does best on friable, shall and limestone soils (for excellent drainage), and reasonably successful on clay
What is/are the key training system(s) for Sangiovese in central IT?
Cordons pruned to spurs
Cane pruned w/ VSP
How has the choice of clones evolved for Sangiovese in Tuscany?
there is a large choice of clones avail
Growers have been replacing choices that were for producing high yields w/ ones w/ more moderate yielding, higher quality clones, or using mass selection from best performing plants
What is the “Chianti Classico 2000 Project”?
produced 7 clones that have been widely planted
Aims were smaller berries, thicker skins, more open bunches to produce wines w/ deeper color, more fl int, and greater disease resistance
Newer releases are popular for vines w/ less vigor —> less labor intensive
What has become a significant hazard for Sangiovese in Tuscany? What is being done?
Esca
Growers learning to avoid large cuts in old wood to reduce vulnerability
More skilled methods of pruning to reduce threat
What pest is a problem in Tuscany?
How is it handled
Wild boar
Fencing
Describe the Trebbiano Toscano grape in Tuscany
Budding
Vigor & yield
Susceptibilities
late budding —> not vulnerable to SP frost
Vigorous and high yielding
Prone to downy mildew and eutypa dieback, but otherwise good disease resistance
Describe Trebbiano Toscano wines
Acidity and flavors
Alias
retains high acidity
Neutral flavors — M(-) lemon, herbal
Ugni Blanc
Why has Trebbiano Toscano’s popularity changed?
high yielding and reliable was valued in the past for bulk wine
Declining popularity due to lack of fruitiness and low int
Additionally, increased demand for red wine means it has been replaced by black grape plantings
What are popular uses for Trebbiano Toscano
high acidity makes it important part of blend for sweet Vin Santo
Regularly blended w/ other varieties for that wine
Wha varieties are used to blend w/ Sangiovese?
Most Tuscan DOC(G)s allow Sangiovese to be blended w/ a small proportion of other black varieties
Local options, such as Canaiolo
Int’l varieties, incl CS, CF, Merlot, Syrah
What does Canaiolo Nero contribute to Tuscan wines?
red berried fruit and floral
Only light tannins
Brings out the floral and red-berried character of Sangiovese
Why do some feel that Merlot and CS should not be blended w/ Sangiovese?
they feel these grapes are too dominant in the taste of the final wine, even in small proportions
Describe the winemaking of Sangiovese in the past
historically, blend could include white varieties
Typically kept on skins for very long periods (30+ days)
Aged in large, neutral oak casks for extended time (3-4 yr) to soften tannins
How is Sangiovese made now?
absence of white grapes
Maceration times reduced to 7-10 days (vs 30+ of past) for early drinking and 15-25 for wines intended to age
Use of temp controlled SS fermentation to preserve primary fruit; concrete also making a comeback
Latter decades of last century saw widespread use of new oak —> layer of vanilla + sweet spice
Since 2000s, return to older barriques, 500L tonneaux and traditional large, neutral oak cask
Aim to focus on subtle cherry flavor of fruit vs oak flavor
$ wine is aged for short period in SS
Describe the area of Chianti DOCG
large area that covers much of Central Tuscany
Surrounds the smaller Chianti Classico
Hilly, although many vineyards at lower elevations (<300m)
How many sub-zones are there of Chianti?
- Seven (7) sub-zones, w/ tighter regs
What rules apply to Chianti DOCG wines?
If w/in one of 7 sub-zones, may bottle w/ sub-zone name
70-100% Sangiovese
Blending varieties may be local or int’l
CS & or CF may not be > 15%
10% white still allowed but rarely used
Min alcohol 11.5%, although sub zones mostly req 12%
Max yield 63 hL/ha (moderately high)
What accounts for the difference in price of Chianti vs Chianti Classico?
moderately high yield of Chianti — 63 hL/ha vs Classico at 56
Less intensive work in the vineyard
Shorter aging (Chianti can be released for sale in March following vintage)
Maturation in large format SS or old oak leading to light to M flavor intensity at lower cost
Describe the profile of an early drinking Chianti DOCG
M body
M alcohol
$ to $$
A to G
No oak aging req’d
Can be released Mar following vintage
What aging req’s are there for Chianti DOCG? Riserva?
Chianti DOCG can be released in March following the vintage
Riserva must be aged for 2 years
No oak aging is req’d except in some sub-zoned
Name 3 of the 7 sub-zones of Chianti
Chianti Rufina DOCG
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG (Chianti from the Florentine hills)
In general, how do the sub-zones of Chianti differ from Chianti?
lower max yields — for ex: Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 56 hL/ha versus 63
For Riserva wines, at least 6 mo of aging must be in oak
How do wines from Chianti Rufina DOCG differ from Chianti? Why?
small zone is coolest due to combo of altitude (~350M) and cooling winds from Apennnines
Results in higher acid, more restrained fruit when young but w/ capacity to age
How do Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG wines differ?
Largest of the sub-zones
Generally warmer
Produces fuller bodied, richer wines
Req’s higher % Sangiovese (min 75%) and less of the Cabs (max 10% singly or together)
Describe Chianti Classico DOCG
hilly area between Florence and Siena
Best wines come from 200-500m
Elevation = cool nights, lengthening growing season, promoting full ripeness w/ high acid
Soils = Schistous, crumbly rock w/ clay & marl known as “galestro”; calcareous soils w/ clay (known as “alberese”; and sandstone and sandy soils. Together = good drainage w/ sufficient water holding
Describe the soil of Chianti Classico said to give aromatic wines w/ potential to age
Galestro
Schistous, crumbly rock w/ clay and marl
Which soils of Chianti Classico are thought to give wines w/ more structure & body
- soils w/ more clay
What is the name for the soils of Chianti Classico that are calcareous w/ clay
- Albarese
What rules apply to Chianti Classico DOCG?
min 80% Sangiovese, though most are ~90% w/ wide variety of supplementary, both local (eg Canaiolo) or int’l (esp Merlot)
Not white varieties permitted
Max yield 52.5 hL/ha
Cannot be released b4 oct in yr following harvest (adds $$$)
Label may mention single vineyard
Wines grown in this area may NOT be labeled as Chianti DOCG
Key village names not currently allowed
What are the styles of Chianti Classico and what led to these differences?
rise of Super Tuscans in 1980s-90s led to wine being made in a more “International Style” — deeper color, plummy fruit from presence of Merlot, evident vanilla from New oak
Recent trend to more traditional style: paler color, sour cherry from dominant Sangiovese, restrained new oak
Describe a typical Chianti Classico DOCG wine
M fl w/ some pronounced examples
$$ to $$$, G to O
What are the rules for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione? When was it intro’d?
intro’d 2013
Grapes must come from single vineyard or estate owned by at the producer
Aged min 30 mo (no wood req)
Where is Brunello di Montalcino DOCG?
When was the wine first bottled?
First producer?
Who led expansion?
S Tuscany
Named after town
First bottled and sold in 1865 by the Biondi-Santi family who remained the only commercial producer until WWII
Since WWII, huge explosion, led by Banfi (originated as an importing co in USA)
How have the # of producers and ha changed in Brunello di Montalcino from1960s to today?
in 1960s, 11 producers, 65 ha
Today, >250 producers, 2100 ha
How does the Brunello di Montalcino region compare to that of Chianti Classico
BdM is drier and warmer, protected from rain by Monte Amiata to the S
BdM produces wines w/ ripe fruit, full body, high alcohol
What helps the wines of Brunello di Montalcino retain acidity ?
- cooling breezes at night from the Mediterranean Sea (40 km away)
Describe the terroir of Brunello di Montalcino
Elevation varies — longest est’d area are >500m, while other parts are much lower (min 120m)
Majority is hilly
Soils are variable; N part is Galestro-based w/ higher elevations leading to more aromatic wines; More clay in lower, warmer S part, which = fuller body
What rules apply to Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
must be 100% Sangiovese
Max yield 54 hL/ha
Req extended aging: may not be released until 1 Jan, 5 yr after harvest, incl 2 yr oak (for Riserva, 6 yr w/ 2 in oak) —> $$$ due to investment in oak and need to store it
Label may mention name of single vineyard
Describe a typical Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wine
Intense sour cherry
High acid & tannin (age capacity)
Complexity even upon release due to tertiary notes developed in long initial aging
$$$ to $$$$, O quality
Why do Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wines typically show complexity even upon release
because of long min aging reqs (min 5 yr, 2 in oak) which develops tertiary prior to release
Name significant producers of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
Casanova di Neri
Soldera
Describe Rosso di Montalcino DOC
100% Sangiovese from same area as Brunello
Often made from young vines or less promising sites
Aged briefly in SS or oak to preserve primary fruit and can be sold after 1 year
Mid price, G to VG
Can be used to declassify Brunello di Montalcino in difficult yrs
Where is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG?
Where are vineyards planted?
SE Tuscany between Montalcion and the border w/ Umbria
Vines planted on E & SE facing slopes at 250-600M
How do higher elevation wined from Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG differ and why?
higher elevations produce more aromatic wines
Due to longer ripening season
What are the soils of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG and how do the wines differ?
heavy, cool clay —> fuller body wines
Sand —> more aromatic
How do the styles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG wines vary?
Traditionally, full bodied & austere, req aging in bottle
Some have been working to produce wines that can be drunk in youth via shorter extraction, use of small format FRO for maturation
What rules apply to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG?
Must be 70-100% Sangiovese
Max yield 56 hL/ha
Aged min 2 yr from 1 Jan after vintage w/ mandatory 12-24 mo in wood (adds cost)
Riserva must be aged 3 yr (but no add’l wood req)
Names of vineyards may be included on label
What is Rosso di Montepulciano?
like Rosso di Montalcino, it is a category for less $$ wines for early drinking
Significant producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Avignonesi
Contucci
Describe Morello de Scansano DOCG? Where?
Close to coast of S Tuscany
Warm area moderated by altitude (avg 250m) and cooling winds from sea at night
Describe the wines of Morello de Scansano DOCG
Wines have ripe fruit, some black fruit notes, w/ sour cherry
M to M+ acid
Ripe M+ tannins
G to VG
$ to $$
What reqs for Morello de Scansano DOCG?
min 85% Sangiovese
Max yield 63 hL/ha (like Chianti)
Where is Bolgheri DOC? How many ha?
Wine style(s)
densely planted denomination
On Tuscan coast
Specializing in BDX blends, though single variety wines, whites and rosé also made
1200 ha
Describe the climate of Bolgheri DOC
Warm w/ cool nights due to proximity to sea (leads to fully ripe grapes)
Winds from sea help reduce fungal disease risk
Rain sufficient and well distributed thru year, but relatively little during harvest
Is irrigation allowed in Bolgheri?
- yes, as in other Tuscan denominations, irrigation is allowed
How are vines trained in Bolgheri?
typically cordon-trained, spur pruned w/ VSP
Easy to maintain to produce high quality fruit
Densities ~6k/ha (higher than most of Traditional areas of Tuscany) —> creates competition to reduce yield and increase concentration
How were vines from Bolgheri labeled before the DOC was created?
- often as vino da tavola as there was no DOC until 1983
What rules apply to Bolgheri DOC wines?
up to 100% CS, CF, Merlot
Up to 50% Syrah and Sangiovese
Up to 30% other varieties such as PV
CS dominates the blends
63 hL/ha for Bolgheri Rosso, released from Sept of yr after harvest
56 hL/ha for Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, min 2 yr age, at least 1 in oak; typically aged in FR barriques w/ significant % new
Small amounts of white made, esp Vermentino