Ch 21 Portugal Flashcards
1
Q
How long does Portugal’s wine growing date back?
What other “ancient” influences?
A
Grapes for wine have been cultivated for many centuries
Historians believe wine was made in the Tagus and Sado Valleys as far back as 2000BCE (vines planted by Tartessians who originated in what is now Andalucía in SW ESP)
Phoenicians brought more vines
Further advanced by Greeks, then Romans
2
Q
What is one of the most important alliances that affects the POR wine industry?
A
Alliance w/ England for over 600 yr
POR became a major supplier to England after Treaty of Windsor, signed 1386
Then, more recently, the Methuen Treaty of 1703
Several centuries of off and on wars between England and France —> England turned to POR when FR wines were forbidden or punitively taxed
3
Q
Which wines were among the first to be traded from POR to England? What followed?
A
light, astringent red wines from what is now Vinho Verde in NW POR
Eventually followed by Port from the Douro Valley
Then, later, wines from around Lisbon
4
Q
What happened to the POR wine industry in the 19th and much of 20th century?
A
Peninsular Wars and POR Civil War around same time FR and ESP wines started becoming increasingly popular in Europe
1867, phylloxera devastated many regions
40 yr rule of Antonio de Oliveira Salazar (from 1932) focused more on qty
Co-ops given preferential rights, leading to >100 being founded 1950-60s
Co-ops badly equipped and run, generally poor qual, high volume, tarnishing reputation
However, 2 very successful brands launched: Mateus and Lancers Rosés
5
Q
What wines brought POR onto the modern wine scene? When?
A
Two incredibly successful brands:
Mateus Rosé 1942
Lancers Rosé 1944
In late 1980s, Mateus Rosé and white made up >40% of Portugal’s still, unfortified wine exports (no where near as dominant today)
6
Q
When did POR return to Democracy?
Join the EU?
A
The Carnation revolution and a return to democracy in the 1970s
Joined EU in 1986
7
Q
What happened to PORs wine trade in the 1970s?
A
Carnation Revolution and return to democracy led to lifting of production restrictions and trade restrictions
This period also saw low-interest loans and grants to encourage producers to make their own wines (vs co-op)
W/o gov’t protections, co-ops had to adapt or close
Finance from EU brought modernization of PORs infrastructure, research & training programs, investment in modern grape growing and winemaking equipment (such as temp controlled SS)
8
Q
How did the debt crisis in the early 2000s affect POR wine industry?
A
EU and IMF bailout —> austerity program made further development of export markets imperative
POR was able to provide ripe red wines and fresh whites at inexpensive to mid-price, while also offering unique indigenous varieties for wine enthusiasts
9
Q
Describe POR’s climate overall
A
West is strongly influenced by the Atlantic — cool, rainy weather, particularly in NW
Mountain ranges protect many more inland regions which have warmer, drier continental climate
The S is warmer and drier, with rolling hills and plains
10
Q
Highlight the soils types of POR
A
Schist or Granite are common in mountainous regions such as Vinho Verde, Douro, Dão, as well as hilly outcrops in Alentejo
Coast and further S, such as Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo and Peninsula de Setubal have more varied soils: some have clay w/ high limestone, others have sandy
There are some fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks, such as in Tejo
11
Q
How has the area under vine changed in the last 30 years in POR?
Any particular regions?
A
as of 2018, 190k ha,
representing a reduction of 85k ha
Reduction mainly from highly fertile (alluvial) soils in Tejo, but also Vinho Verde / Minho
12
Q
What area of POR has seen an increase in investment and growth in the wine industry?
Why?
How is the region different compared to others in POR?
A
Alentejo
Warm, sunny, dry climate
Flat topography allowing for mechanization
EU funds have allowed recruitment of consultant winemakers that allowed region to make soft, ripe style that was popular on both domestic and int’l markets
Has large # of estates w/ large, relatively young vineyard holdings, set up for tourism (close to Lisbon) vs smaller landholders elsewhere
13
Q
What % of wine production takes place on POR mainland?
A
Over 99% is POR mainland
Remainder in islands of Madeira and the Azores (not part of D3)
14
Q
What hazards have caused problems for the industry in recent years?
A
climate change has brought drought, especially in continental regions such as Douro, Dão, Altentejo
Extreme weather such as hail
Wildfires — hit Dão 2017
Wet weather in coastal regions —> poor fruit set, then fungal later season
Trunk disease esca and vineyard pest European grapevine moth common
15
Q
How are most vines trained?
A
majority are either cordon or replacement cane, and VSP trellised
Significant # of old bush vines can be found in Douro and certain areas of Alentejo, w/ much smaller % in Dão and Bairraada
Bush vines are often “field blends” whereas modern (1980s) vineyards are typically 1 variety or varietal blocks
16
Q
Is irrigation allowed in POR?
A
historically, regions had to have authorization to irrigate
Now it is generally not req’d to get auth.
A degree of reg. may still exist on regional level, such as in Douro where they must notify IVDP (Instituto dos Vines do Douro e Porto) when the irrigate
Generally only used where lack of water would jeopardize qual and cannot be used to boost yields
17
Q
What is the state of organic growing in POR?
A
about 2700 ha farmed by 500 growers are certified
Low % compared to some EU countries
However, many are doing it, just not certified b/c cost
Expected to grow in future
18
Q
What can be said about the grapes that are grown in Portugal overall?
A
Wide variety, mostly POR in origin
Although, many Int’l varieties grown, but not always allowed (Douro, Dão, Vinho Verde)
Certain varieties tend to be concentrated in specific regions (such as Castelão in Peninsula de Setubal)
Some areas that used to rely on int’l are returning to indigenousΩ
Artisanal producers are reviving native grapes that had fallen out of fashion
19
Q
What is the overall style of both red and white wines in POR?
A
most are blends, w/ relatively few exceptions,
such as Baga in Bairrada, Encruzado in Dão, and Alvarinho in the Monção e Melgaço sub-region of Vinho Verde
20
Q
What are the most planted grape varieties in POR?
A
Aragonez/ Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional (note, substantial amount of top 3 goes into Port)
Fernão Pires/ Maria Gomes
Castelão (black)
Trincadeira (black)
Baga (black)
Loureiro (w)
Arinto/ Pedernã (w)
Then Syrah, Roupeiro, Alicante Bouschet
21
Q
How did winemaking change in POR after admission to EU? When?
A
EU admission 1986
Protective winemaking techniques and use of SS w/ temp control = fruity wines
De-stemming equipment led to sig improvements in tannin management for reds and use of FRO (when used) for maturation of both R&W, though some use AMO
22
Q
What were traditional techniques for POR winemaking?
How has this been evolving?
A
Large (3000-6000L) Portuguese and Brazilian hardwood “Toneis” were commonly used
Tradition is being maintained by some, particularly in Bairrada
Similar to worldwide trend, many are being more restrained in use of new oak or time in wood, preferring to age in larger format oak
Niche revival of tones-sized vessels, though typically buying new “foudres” (sizes vary, but typically ~2000-2500L) and wooden fermenters from FR, IT, AUT
Some experiment w/ POR oak and chestnut (both common in past)
Foot treading in “lagares” (shallow fermenters often made form schist, granite, marble) or easy-to-clean SS regularly practiced
Fermenting &/or aging in clay increasing
Fermenting on skins (R & W) in clay has its own DOC Vinho de Talha in Alentejo
23
Q
Where is there a DOC dedicated to fermenting wines on skins?
A
- Vinho de Talha DOC in Alentejo
24
Q
What are the wine classifications for POR?
A
as a member of EU, follows PDO and PGI system of geo-indications to protect its wine regions & styles
DOC/DOP - both widely used, (DOC is traditional, DOP more modern)
31 DOCs, each has its own regs on grape growing and winemaking, and all wines must be officially tested, tasted, and approved
VR — Vinho Regional is widely used for PGI wines.
14 VRs, less stringent than PDOs, often permit int’l varieties (although some don’t)
Vinho — term for wines that are not PDO or PGI
25
Describe the wine biz in POR
How does it contribute to POR’s ag biz overall?
Landholders?
How has it been evolving?
Grape growing = 35% of total nat’l agriculture output, highest in world
About 85% is still, unfortified
Historically land of small holdings, where grape growing was but 1 element of subsistence farming (although that is changing)
Until Carnation Rev of 1974, growers had a ready market for grapes/ wines — sold to negociants and co-ops who produced bulk wine, which was shipped to former colonies in Africa, Angola, Mozambique
Big brands (Mateus, Lancers, Casal Garcia of Vinho Verde) still largely sourced from growers divorced from winemaking & sales
However, negociants have acquired vineyards to diversify, increase qual
More producers starting to produce their now estate wine
Co-ops have been decreasing, although 73 still active
Trend of winemakers who own no vineyards but select from old, often neglected or unfashionable varieties
26
What is an example of a negociant that has acquired vineyards?
Sogrape
Since 198s has acquired leading Port brands and estates in Vinho Verde, the Douro, Dão, Alentejo, Lisboa
Biggest wine co in POR, w/ revenue > total of next 7 biggest producers combined
27
Where does POR fit in the world rankings of wine production? Export?
Top export markets by volume vs value
currently 12th in production
But 9th in exports
Largest by volume (including fortified & sparkling) = FR, Angola, GER, UK
Largest by value = FR, US, UK, Brazil
28
What body contributes to the POR wine biz?
Wines of Portugal
Founded 2010, w/ focus of promoting and educating consumers nd trade in export markets on POR wines
29
Where is Vinho Verde?
NW corner of Portugal
Atlantic to the West
Spain (Rias Baixas) to the North w/ River Minho forming border
Mountains of Peneda-Gerês National Park to E
Extends beyond the Douro in the S
30
Describe the climate of Vinho Verde
How does it vary by location?
Rainfall and implications
Moderate Maritime thanks to Atlantic + network of river valleys that funnel Atlantic winds inland
as land gradually rises to the E, climate becomes more continental —> warmer, drier sub-regions can grow later-ripening grape varieties such as Avesso and produce wines w/ more body & alc, notably Alvarinho
Rainfall as much as 1500mm (!) falling throughout the year -> vintage variation!!!
31
Describe the soils of Vinho Verde
as land gradually rises to the E, soils become poorer
Much of the vineyard area is granitic bedrock w/ shallow topsoil of decomposed granite w/ a sandy texture, providing good drainage
Natural fertility is low —> fertilizers such as manure commonly needed
32
Which sub-regions of Vinho Verde lend themselves to later-ripening varieties? Why?
Baião and Monção e Melgaço, which are more inland, thus more continental, warmer, drier
Can grow Avesso and Alvarinho
33
What are common vineyard management practices in Vinho Verde?
since (relatively high) rainfall throughout year, need to manage air circ
Traditional method was to train vines up trees, or on trellises over terraces
Most modern are now rows, either single or double Guyot (replacement cane) with VSP, or lyre
All are trained relatively high to increase air circ and reduce rot
Summer pruning used such as removing lateral shoots, leaf removal, green harvesting (for productive varieties) to enhance ripening and improve air circ
34
What grape(s) in Vinho Verde?
as recently as 1960s, 80% of production was reds
By 2008, 70% was white, increasing to 81% in 2019 (14% red, 5% rosé)
Loureiro (Loureira in ESP) is most widely grown, mainly toward coast
Alvarinho (Albariño in Rias Baixas) 2nd, traditionally grown in N
Pederña (aka Arinto) is 3rd
Avesso, Trajadura (Treixadura),
Vinhão (Sousão) is the most planted black
35
Describe the Loureiro grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
most widely grown, predominantly toward coast
Mid-ripening
M+ acidity
Citrus, pear, floral, and herbal
36
Describe the Alvarinho grape in Vinho Verde
Contributes to wine?
Where grown
Albariño in ESP Rias Baixas
2nd most widely grown
Citrus, peach, sometimes tropical
M+ body
M+ to high acid
Traditionally grown almost exclusively in area just S of ESP border in Monção e Melgaço but now spread b/c high quality
37
Describe the Pederña grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
Aka Arinto
Mid-ripening
More neutral than Loureiro or Alvarinho
Subtle citrus, apple
High acid
38
Describe the Avesso grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
Where grown
late ripening
Can fail to fully ripen unless weather conditions warm & dry
Tends to be grown inland and in the S, particularly in Baião sub-region b/c warmer & drier
Lower acid than some other varieties
Relatively full-body
Citrus, stone fruit
39
Describe the Loureiro grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
aka Treixadura in ESP Rias Baixas
Low acid
Apple, peach
Usually blended w/ varieties w/ higher acid
40
Describe the Vinhão grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
aka Sousão in Douro and Sousón in Galicia ESP
By far the most planted black grape
Deeply colore
Cherry fruit
High acid
41
Describe winemaking for inexpensive, high volume wines in Vinho Verde
May use sourced fruit from across the region and a blend of varieties
Protective methods and cool fermentation in SS
Bottled for release soon after end of ferment
CO2 often added at bottling to give a light spritz
42
Describe the style of an inexpensive, high volume Vinho Verde
can be white, red, rosé but mainly white (described here)
Low alcohol
M+ to high acid
Apple, citrus, and/or peach flavors depending on grape varieties used
Some have small amount RS
Usually G, made by a co-op or merchant
43
Describe a higher priced/ quality wine made in Vinho Verde
Often made from smaller boutique producers
Tend to be still
Growing # of single varietal and single sub-region
A few use ambient yeast
(Mostly) old oak for ferment &/or maturation
May choose to keep the wine on its lees for a few mo to enhance complexity & texture
Often mid-priced to premium
Generally VG
44
What are the main diffs between an high volume Vinho Verde and one that was more quality-minded
Bulk (B) = blend of grapes & regions vs VG = single varietal, single sub-region
B = protective SS ferment and little maturation vs VG = neutral oak, some maturation often on lees
Likely cultured yeast vs ambient
B more likely to have some CO2
B more likely co-op or merchant, VG more likely smaller boutique producers
45
What is req’d for a sub-region of Vinho Verde to be on the label?
must have min 9% abv (vs 8% for no sub-region mention)
Single varietal Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço must be made to lower max yields and have min 11.5% abv
Monção e Melgaço is only sub-region allowed to name Alvarinho on their labels as single variety
46
What is req’d for Alvarinho (variety) to be on the label of Vinho Verde?
Monção e Melgaço is only sub-region allowed to name Alvarinho on their labels as single variety
From 2016, other sub-regions may name Alvarinho alongside other names of other grapes as long as Alvarinho = 30% or >
Other sub-region producers must declassify their wine to Minho VR if they want to make single varietal Alvarinho
47
Describe the wine biz in Vinho Verde
Ownership
Exports + top countries
Fragmented ownership
Avg grower has <0.10 ha (!)
Most growers deliver grapes to co-op or merchant
Only 400 growers bottle their own wine
35% exports (growing)
Top markets = GER, USA Brazil & FR w/ USA for sales
48
What wine is (arguably) the most well-known of POR? Which makes the most wine?
- The Douro for both
49
When was the Douro DOC established? Why?
Douro DOC was established in 1982
Prior to that, Porto DOC (?) existed but was only for Fortified wines
The first ambitious Douro red was made by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida who worked at Ferreira Port
Visited BDX and was convinced unfortified wine could be made from Douro grapes
1952 = 1st vintage of Barca Velha, but wasn’t until POR joined EU in 1986 (and the financing that came with it) that the region really est’d
50
What is the significance of Barca Velha?
Fernando Nicolau de Almeida made the 1st vintage of non-fortified Douro wine
51
What was the process of making the 1st unfortified red wine in the Douro?
Cooling of fermentation tanks w/ ice brought upriver from Matosinhos (fishing port W of Porto city)
Experimentation w/ different grapes, diff ferment vesses, and diff types of oak
Finally settled on Tina Roriz (Aragonez, Tempranillo) for majority and local POR grapes for rest
52
Describe the location of the Douro wine region
Runs the course of the Douro river over 100km/60mi
Starts last the river turns west at the border w/ Spain
Finishes just W of Mesão Frio (about 100km/60mi inland from Oporto)
Western limit marked by the Serra do Marão — 1415m at highest point — shields Douro region from worst of cooler, damper Atlantic weather
53
Describe the sub-regions of the Douro
Baixa Corgo in the west
Cima Corgo in the middle
Douro Superior (upper Douro) in the East
54
Describe the climate of the Douro and its sub-regions
Douro overall is warm continental
Protected by the Serra do Marão — 1415m at highest point, protecting region from cooler, damper Atlantic weather
Westernmost Baixo Corgo is coolest, wettest (900mm/yr)
Middle Cima Corgo is warmer & drier w/ 700mm/yr
Eastern Douro Superior is hot and arid w/ 450mm/yr
Douro river and its tributaries provide valley sides w/ variety of aspects and altitudes —> huge range of microclimates
55
Describe the soils of the Douro
What main hazard?
How is it mitigated?
bedrock is schist, w/ shallow topsoil made of decomposed schist
Low organic matter and stony texture
Soil stores little water, but b/c bedrock schist splits into vertical layers, vine roots can break through it in search of water — esp important for hillside vineyards not set up for irrigation and the dry, drought-prone climate
In 2019, IVDP relaxed irrigation regs to allow when hydric stress jeopardizes quality (as distinct from QUANTITY). If area authorized for irrigation, producer only needs to notify IVDP if they do it
56
What are Patamares*
these are wider planted terraces supported by a steep ramp of earth rather than a stone wall (as with socalcos).
They run diagonally up and down the slope
57
Describe the Douro Superior (rainfall, climate, plantings)*
it is the warmest and driest of the 3 sub-regions of Port
450mm of rainfall vs 900mm Baixo Corgo, 700mm Cima Corgo
Drought is a frequent issue
Sparsely planted
Relatively flat which allows mechanization so plantings are increasing
58
What are the 3 main vineyard layouts of the Douro Valley?*
Socalcos
Patamares
Vinha ao Alto
59
What are Socalcos?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock
Not typically suitable for mechanization so not typically considered for planting new vineyards
Those of the Douro are protected by UNESCO so cannot be converted to other layouts
60
What is the typical planting density for Socalcos? When is this varied?*
allow for planting densities of 6000 vines/hectare
Can be planted at lower densities to allow for a small tractor to enter the terraces to reduce need for labor
61
What are Patamares?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
terraces supported by a steep earth ramp rather than a stone wall (as would be for Socalcos)
They allow for small tractors to run up and down the slopes by the use of tracks than run diagonally up the slope
Cheaper to implement and maintain than Socalcos
However erosion and weeds on the ramps can be problematic
62
What are the typical planting densities for Patamares?*
3000-3500 vines/ hectare, as the ramps take up a lot of space
63
What are the two types of Patamares?
How do they compare?*
Large, wide patameres that support 2 rows of vines on each terrace
Original style
Makes efficient use of land, but uneven ripeness can be an issue
Narrow patamares that only support 2 row of vines
More modern version carved by newer, smaller bulldozers
Often use laser tech to ensure precise construction
Often tilted slightly toward the slope and also from 1 side to the other to improve water absorption and drainage + reduce erosion
Fewer problems of uneven ripening
64
What are Vinha ao Alto?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high-density planting (~5000 vines/ ha)
65
Why would a vintner like to use Vinha ao Alto? What are the limitations?*
least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high density planting (~5k vines/ha)
Efficient use of the land
However, above 40% incline, mechanization cannot be used, therefore in these situations patamares are more likely
Water runoff and erosion can be significant problems
66
How are vines typically trained / pruned in the Douro?*
cordon-trained and spur-pruned or
Head-trained and cane-pruned
VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure and ripening, and allow for mechanization where viable
67
What rootstocks are used in Douro?*
drought-tolerant rootstocks such as 110R and 1103P
Both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri
68
What are the main viticultural hazards in the Douro?
late spring frosts in highest altitude vineyards
In some years, cool, wet weather during the early summer which disrupts flowering & fruitiest
Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot, especially in the wetter Baixo Corgo
69
What are the key vineyard management practices in the Douro?*
canopy management and spraying with fungicides to combat mildew and bunch rot
Fertilizers may be used as necessary to improve poor nutrient status
Herbicides may be required to control weeds that grow on slopes of patamares and compete w/ vines for water and nutrients (mower may be used instead if there is space)
On vinha ao alto slopes, cover crops may be grown to prevent erosion improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce the presence of weeds
Many are shifting to sustainable or organic techniques where possible
70
What red grape(s) in the Douro?
mostly blends
Single varietal wines, typically Touriga Nacional or Tinto Roriz can be found but are rare
Most common grapes are similar to those used for Port: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tina Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cão
Plantings of Sousão are increasing
Large # of other Portuguese varieties allowed
71
Describe Touriga Franca
Late-ripening, therefore suitable for grown in the warmest sites (low altitude, S-facing)
Tight bunches of thick skinned grapes, so relatively resistant to fungal disease
Can be vigorous so need mgmt/ summer pruning
Contributes color, tannin and acidity
Juicy red and black fruit flavors (but not jammy) + floral aromas
M body
M alcohol
Popular w/ growers and producers
By far the most grown variety
72
Describe Tinta Roriz
aka Tempranillo (Spain), Aragonez (POR)
Early ripening that is best grown in relatively cool sites (otherwise suffers from water stress)
Lends body and deep color
Cable of producing high yields, but these need to be limited do wines don’t lack concentration
73
Describe Tinta Barroca
early ripening variety best planted on coolest sites (high altitude or N-facing slopes, generally in Baixo Corgo and Coma Corgo) to avoid heat damage and grape shriveling
Not as floral as some of the other grapes
Flavors tend to be more earthy
Unless planted on coolest sites, it can lack acidity
Color tends to fade more quickly than with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca
Capable of producing high yields
74
Describe Touriga Nacional
mid-ripening w/ thick-skin, producing wines w/ deep color intensity and high levels of tannin
Retains acidity well and
displays concentrated flavors of black fruit and floral aromas
High level of color and tannins
Black fruit and floral such as violet, rose or orange blossom
Said to have long aging potential so often a component of premium and long-matured wines
Can suffer from excess vegetative vigor which needs to be managed w/ summer pruning
Susceptible to coulure, which can lower yields and cause vine imbalance
75
What white grape(s) in the Douro?
Include brief description
Douro DOC whites are traditional POR varieties, many native to Douro
Viosinho (full-body, floral & stone fruit, can lack acidity)
Rabigato (high acid, citrus, floral)
Bouveio (aka Godello in ESP, M+ acid, citrus, stone fruit)
Sometimes Moscatel Gelego Branco (MBaPG) to enhance intensity of aromas
76
What vineyard sites are typical for white grapes in the Douro? Why?
Tend to be grown at highest altitudes providing cooler day and nighttime temps to help retain acidity
77
Describe Douro white winemaking
tend to be made from grapes blended from a range of sites although some make single vineyard
Aim for ripe but not over-ripe grapes
Tend to be a blend of varieties to help achieve balance
Inexpensive: cool SS ferment; bottled for sale soon after
Premium: grapes from old vines; often fermented and matured in oak (old or new)
78
What style(s) of wine are allowed under Douro DOC?
What is the majority?
Still red, rosé or white wines, as well as sparkling
70% is red
79
What is the price and quality range for Douro DOC wines?
range from $ G wines for early drinking, to
$$$ sometimes $$$$ that are VG to O and have greater intensity and complexity
80
What is the term for “old vines” in POR?
- Vinhas Velhas
81
Significant Douro producers
Prats & Symington
Quinto do Vale Meão
82
Describe red wine making in the Douro
grapes usually destemmed since grapes are generally high tannin so don’t need more coming from stems, or green, unripe flavors
SS ferment for easy temp control
Relatively low temp for red (24-28C/75-82F) to allow greater control of tannin extraction
Some still use wide, shallow lagares, or start the ferment in lagares. Influence of this depends on cap management and whether or not temp controlled (easier to monitor extraction than in closed tank)
Early consumption: pressed off skins at ferment completion
Longer aging wines: may have post-ferment maceration
Maturation traditionally in large oak vessels, often POR oak
Modern maturation often smaller vessels such as barriques, FRO preferred, although now going back to 400-500L w/ less new)
83
What benefit is there to fermenting in lagares?
it can be easier to monitor the level of extraction in an open lagar than a closed tank
84
What % of sales come from whites of Douro?
- just over 25%
85
Describe an inexpensive Douro white
Typically protectively made
Light to M aromas & flavors
M to M+ acid
G quality
Moscatel Galego Branco (MBaPG) often used to enhance aroma intensity
86
Describe more premium white Douro wine
tend to be produced from old-vine (Vinhas Velhas) fruit
Often fermented and matured in oak (old or new)
Greater intensity and variety of aromas and flavors than inexpensive
Greater body and texture
Often VG w/ some O
87
What % of the Douro region’s wine comes from Port versus Douro DOC?
Port is >60%
Douro DOC is growing and is >30% of region’s total DOC production
VR Duriense produces much lower volumes, but is an option for producers who choose to use non-local varieties such as Chard, Riesling, Syrah
88
What is VR Durienese wine designation used for?
VR Duriense produces much lower volumes than Douro DOC, but is an option for producers who choose to use non-local varieties such as Chard, Riesling, Syrah
89
Describe the wine biz in Douro
Main producers + how co-ops fit in
Prices
Export + main markets
Many are estate-grown grapes named after the “quinta”
Many of the well-known Port producers, including Symington, Quinta do Noval, and Niepoort make a range of Douro wines
Top wines come from select estates or parcels which have been earmarked for wine (as opposed to Port) producing
Inexpensive, high volume wines often sourced from different Quintas and may be made by one of the region’s 23 co-ops
Prices are influenced by the market, not controlled by the Beneficio, but prices are significantly lower than for Port production
64% domestic
Main export markets by volume = CAN, Brazil, UK
90
Describe the location of Dão
S of both Vinho Verde and Douro
Inland of Bairrada
91
What is more common, Dão DOC or VR Terras do Dão?
- VR Terras do Dão is not commonly used
92
Describe the climate of Dão
region is surrounded by mountains, protecting it from cool maritime weather from W and warmer, more arid conditions to the E & S
Mediterranean climate w/ warm, dry summers and mild WI
Relatively high rainfall (1600mm/yr in W, 1100mm/yr in E) but mainly falls in AU and WI
93
Describe the terrain of Dão
% planted to vineyards + other plantings
Topography
Elevation
large area, only 5% planted w/ vines
Majority of land is pine and eucalyptus forests, which are thought to bring signature note to the wines
Mixed topography w/ hills, valleys and mountain sides giving large range of aspects & altitudes
Most are 400-500m (some as low as 200m or high as 900) = moderating influence on day time temps and high diurnal range
94
Describe the soils of the Dão
mainly weathered granite w/ sandy or loamy texture
Low in organic matter
Free draining
Vigor is constrained, water stress can be an issue during ripening
95
What hazards in Dão?
b/c of low organic matter and free draining soils, Vigor is constrained, water stress can be an issue during ripening
Hail in SU
Spring frosts in flat, low-lying vineyards where mountain air descends to plains below
96
What vine training in Dão?
Traditionally bush vines
Most modern plantings are double or single Guyot (replacement cane pruned) OR
Cordon trained w/ VSP trellising
97
What grape(s) in Dão
80% production is red
Key black varieties are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen (Mencía in ESP), Alfrocheiro, often blended
White: key grape is Encruzado, others : Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira), Bical and Cercial
98
Describe Touriga Nacional wine in Dão
deep color
High tannins
High acidity
Black fruit & floral or herbal
Can be single varietal or add structure to a blend
Capable of aging
99
Describe Tinta Roriz in Dão
ripens earlier
Deep color
M to M+ tannins
Full body
Can be single varietal or add structure to a blend
Capable of aging
100
Describe Jaen in Dão
aka Mencía in Spain
M acidity
Raspberry + blackberry
As single varietal, sometimes made by carbonic maceration to produce fruity wine for early consumption
Can be used to soften and lend ripe fruity flavors to blends
101
Descrive Alfrocheiro in Dão
M tannin
M body
Strawberry, blackberry
As single varietal, usually made in soft, fruity style for early consumption
Sometimes used for rosé
Can be used to soften and lend ripe fruity flavors to blends
102
How do Dão wines compare to those of Douro?
Dão wines tend to be less full-bodied and intense
Often w/ fresher flavors and higher acid
103
How have Dão red wines changed?
used to be excessively astringent and lacking in fruit from long periods of maceration followed by extensive maturation in old oak
Now, shorter maceration and aging in oak is common; use of new oak is typical but some producers have stared to reduce this
104
What is the key white grape of Dão
- Encruzado
105
Describe Encruzado wines from Dão
M to M+ acid
Can be full-body
Lemon, peach and sometimes floral
Can be fermented in neutral vessels to retain its fruit or fermented & matured in oak, somteimes w/ lees aging and stirring for texture
Oak fermented examples are capable of aging and can develop nutty characters
G to VG w/ some O
M to premium
Can often be blended w/ Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira), Bical and Cercial
106
Describe the wine biz in Dão
Vineyard holdings
How biz changed on entry to EU
Exports and key markets
many small vineyard holdings w/ >90% have <0.5ha
After entering EU and overturning legislation that favored co-ops, Sogrape (POR’s largest producer) led the way to producing higher qual at all prices
Growing # of quality focused private co’s (merchants & estates)
Between 15-20% exported
Key markets: CAN, Brazil, USA, China
107
Key producers of Dão
Sogrape
Vinha Paz, and Quinta da Pellada
108
Describe the location of Bairrada
W of Dão
S of Vinho Verde and Douro
Atlantic to W
109
Describe the climate of Bairrada
Maritime (on Atlantic coast)
800-1200mm rain (although some areas can get 1600), mainly falls in SP and AU (problem for late-ripening Baga)
110
In general, how do the DOC boundaries compare to the planted area in POR
- DOC boundaries are often much larger than the planted area
111
Describe the soils of Bairrada
fertile alluvial soils in the W, from river estuaries that have silted up
Limestone-clay slopes
112
Describe vine training in Bairrada
traditionally planted to high-trained, individually staked bush vines
Recent plantings are trellised w/ the Guyot system (replacement cane pruned) w/ VSP being common
113
Red Grape(s) in Bairrada
Red = 2/3 production
Baga is dominant black grape
DOC permits range of POR varieties incl Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen (Mencía), Camarate
Add’lly permits int’l such as CS, Merlot (well suited to maritime climate and soils that drain efficiently) — often used to soften Baga tannin profile and bring more body
114
Describe Baga wine
high acidity
High tannin
M body
Cranberry, cherry, plum
Can be astringent when young but becomes softer & more complex w/ bottle age
115
What were Baga wines like through most of the 20th century ?
grown at high yield and sold to co-ops
Lacked fruit concentration and were unpleasantly astringent
Significant amount was sold for production of Mateus Rosé (still is)
NOW: many are focusing on quality w/ better understanding on how to produce
116
Describe the Baga grape
Late ripening —> AU rains a problem
Productive —> careful site selection and limiting yields are req’d to ensure full ripeness
117
What sites are best for Baga?
late ripening so needs warmest sites
Often S- facing aspects, protected from cool N winds by eucalyptus and pine forests
Thought to ripen best on limestone-clay soils that provide balance of water retention & drainage —> enough water to prevent photosynthesis from stopping, but not so much as to encourage vigor
Light colored soils also reflect solar energy, aiding ripening; (sandy soils too dry and often better suited to other varieties)
118
Why is Baga often green harvested?
to enhance ripening of the remaining bunches
Removed fruit is sometimes used in sparkling wines
119
Describe winemaking of Baga
Traditionally, fermented on stems, contributing to reputation of needing long bottle age
Most MODERN are de-stemmed, although some return to % whole cluster (can give fresher fruit character and enhance aromas) or adding % of stems to ferment (can add structure)
Fermentation vessels mixed, from SS to open concrete vats, to traditional lagares
Maturation mainly in large (500-600L) barrels of FRO; Traditional producers may use large “toneis” often made of POR oak or Brazilian hardwood; others may choose large “foudres” made of FRO, ITO, or AUTO
120
Why do some producers of Baga use some whole cluster in ferments, or add some stems back?
Use of % whole cluster can give fresher fruit character and enhance aromas
adding % of stems to ferment can add structure, which is good for wines designed to undergo long aging
121
What is req'd of a wine labeled Baga Classico?
must be min 50% Baga,
AND 85% of any blend of Baga, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Jaen (Mencía) and Carmarate
122
What style(s) of wine are allowed in Bairrada DOC
- Red, rosé, white, sparkling
123
White grape(s) in Bairrada?
Maria Gomes (aka Fernão Pires) — early ripening —> good in damp climate
Bical, Arinto, Cercial
Int’l include SB and Chard
124
Describe the Maria Gomes grape
most planted white grape in POR
Aka Fernão Pires
Early ripening
Can produce high yields
125
Describe aromas of Maria Gomes
citrus and floral
M+ acidity if picked relatively early but loses acidity quickly if left on vine
126
Describe the Bical grape and wine
early ripening
Peach and sometimes tropical fruit
M+ acidity if picked relatively early but loses acidity quickly if left on vine
127
Describe the character of Arinto and Cercial
apple and citrus
Used in blends to add acidity
128
Describe winemaking for inexpensive whites in Bairrada
sourced from parts of the region w/ sandy soils
Fermented at cool temps in SS
Bottled for sale soon after ferment
129
Describe winemaking for mid-priced and premium whites in Bairrada
sourced from parts of region w/ clay-limestone soils
May be fermented and matured in oak for a short time
130
What is noteworthy about Bairrada relative to POR winemaking
lead producer of traditional method sparkling wine in POR
Accounts for 10% of Bairrada’s production
Both local grapes as well as Chard & PN are used
131
Describe the wine biz in Bairrada
many spall growers,
Co-ops and merchants both common
“Baga Friends” group to promote high qual Baga wines
132
What group was formed to promote high quality Baga wines in Bairrada
Baga Friends
For wines made entirely of Baga
133
Where is Alentejo? DOC Alentejo?
extends over most of SE POR
Spanish border to E
Algarve mountains to the S
Alentejo DOC is 8 non-contiguous sub-regions
134
What is Vinho de Talha DOC?
Intro’d in 2010
Covers the same 8 non-contiguous sub-regions as Alentejo DOC
Used for wines fermented on skins in “talha” (amphora) a traditional production method that is undergoing a renaissance
135
What is Vinho Regional (VR) Alentejano used for?
commonly used for producers sourcing grapes outside of the 8 non-contiguous subregions of the DOCs
136
What is the growing environment of Alentejo?
Mediterranean, w/ hot dry SU and mild WI
Most inland parts have the most extreme temps
500mm rainfall the S, 800mm in the N, mainly falling in AU and WI
For long periods of dry weather, drip irrigation is used
137
Describe the landscape of Alentejo
mainly plains and gentle slopes, though there are mountains in N, S, and E of the region
138
Describe the soils of Alentejo
wide range
Includes granite, schist, and limestone, w/ textures that range from sand to clay
139
Describe the vine training of Alentejo
Most trained & trellised to double cordon w/ VSP
Replacement cane systems are gradually declining due to need for skilled labor during pruning
140
Describe how the climate varies in the sub-regions of Alentejo DOC
Northernmost sub-regions in the Alto (upper) Alentejo are less hot and dry
W/in North area is Portalegre — vineyards >800m altitude —> cooler than rest of Alentejo —> fresher fruit and higher acid wines
141
Grape(s) in Alentejo DOC
wide range
For white and red wines, single varietal wines are the exception
Black varieties 75%
3 main black = Aragonez (aka Tinta Roriz, Tempranillo), Alicante Bouschet, Trencadeira
Touriga Nacional also used for tannin & acidity
Int’l such as Syrah, CS, Petit Verdot
Whites: Roupeiro (most planted), Arinto, Antão Vaz
Int’l such as Chard, Viognier also permitted
Many other Int’l and POR (incl Alvarinho)
142
Why is harvesting time important to Aragonez?
early ripening
Can become extra ripe and is thought to grow best in cooler areas/ sites
143
What does Alicante Bouschet contribute to blends?
Red-fleshed —> contributes deep color
Acidity, tannins
Red & black berry fruits
144
Why does Trincadeira grow well in Alentejo
- it is very susceptible to rot, but Alentejo is very dry
145
Describe what Trincadeira contributes to blends
M tannins
M acidity
Blackberry and spice
146
Describe Roupeiro
Most planted white grape in Alentejo
Retains acidity well—> well suited to warm, dry Alentejo
Susceptible to rot —> well suited to warm, dry Alentejo
When youthful —> citrus, stone fruit
Can lose primary flavors quickly w/ age
147
Describe Arinto
aka Pedernã in Vinho Verde
Used in blends for ability to retain acidity
148
Describe Antão Vaz
tolerant of drought so well suited to dry Alentejo
Made in range of styles, including early picked fresh wines, later picked full body wines (often oaked) w/ tropical fruits
Also made as “talha” wines w/ evident skin contact influence
Can lack acidity in warmest sub-regions (unless picked early) so is often blended w/ higher acid grapes like Roupeiro and Arinto
149
Describe the wine biz in Alentejo
region is the largest sales volume of POR w/ 37% domestic market by volume and 40% by value
20%of total POR wine exports
Main export markets = Brazil, Angola, USA, CH, CAN
Production has been increasing
Larger landholdings than most of POR
Well-suited to cost-effective, high-volume, mechanized viticulture
Close proximity to Lisbon and its tourism — leveraging this into wine tourism
150
Where is Lisboa?
long, thin region runs from Lisbon in the S to 150km (90mi) north
Coastal mountain range, the Serra de Montejunto, splits the region into 2 distinct areas
151
Describe the climate of Lisboa
Western side runs along the Atlantic coast — > Wet weather and strong winds make growing more challenging —> lighter bodied, fresher wines
Eastern side is more protected by Serra de Montejunto mountains —> riper, fuller-bodied wines
152
Grape(s) of Lisboa
wide range of POR and int’l varieties permitted in both VR and DOCs
Touriga Nacional and Aragonez
Arinto (historic local white grape)
Syrah, CS, PN, SB, Riesling
153
What are the best known DOCs of Lisboa? Where are they located ?
Alenquer and Bucelas
Both on E side of coastal mountains
154
What wine(s) typical in Alenquer DOC
full-body reds
Often from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, though many black varieties grown
G to VG
$$ w/ a few $$$ to $$$$
155
What wine(s) typical in Bucelas?
high acid whites from Arinto
Arinto must be 75% of the blend
Some fermented in SS and bottled soon after
Some get lees contact and/or oak to enhance texture
G to VG, $ to $$
156
What are the important coastal DOCs of Lisboa?
Colares and Carcavelos
These have great historical importance, having been almost entirely subsumed by Lisbon’s suburbs
157
Describe Colares DOC
Nearly subsumed by Lisbon’s suburbs
Cool, foggy coastal climate
Un-grafted old bush vines on the deep, phylloxera-free sandy soils
Makes fresh, high acid red and white wines from rarely-seen local grapes
158
Describe the wine biz of Lisboa
vast majority of production is Lisboa VR
History of producing inexpensive wines for sale to POR colonies
A significant portion is still sold w/o geo indication (i.e. Vinho), although w/ improving quality, more wines are being certified as DOC or VR
9 DOCs (1 focused on grape spirit production)
40% of the DOC/VR wine is made by 1 producer: Casa Santos Lima — makes inexpensive, mid-priced, and private labels for retailers, mostly for export market
159
Why do producers often choose to use Lisboa VR rather than one of the DOCs of the area?
regs allow more flexibility
The name “Lisboa” is more recognizable than the names of the smaller DOCs
160
Where is Península de Setúbal?
- located between estuaries of the Tejo and Sado rivers, S of Lisbon
161
Describe the climate of Península de Setúbal?
Generally Mediterranean, w/ hot dry SU, and mild, wet winters
Mountains in S provide cooler sites at higher altitudes on clay-limestone
Much of land is flat and sandy w/ more clay and schist further inland
162
What DOCs in Península de Setúbal?
Palmela DOC — mainly produces reds
Setúbal — sweet fortified wines of Moscatel variety
163
Describe the red wines of Palmela DOC
must be at least 67% Castelão (aka Periquita)
Deep color
Full body
Red berry fruit
Often fermented in oak which adds hint of spice
164
Where are concentrated, age-worthy Palmela DOC wines grown? Lighter wines?
concentrated = Castelão grown in warm, sandy vineyards on the plains
Lighter = limestone slopes
165
Grape(s) of Península de Setúbal?
Castelão (Palmela DOC reds must be at least 75%)
Variety of POR and Int’l varieties also permitted, w/ many int’l such as CS and Syrah better suited to the cooler, limestone clay slopes
Whites also produced; main is Fernão Pires, Moscatel and Arinto
166
Describe Península de Setúbal VR
makes up a larger area including the Peninsula and land further to the S, and encompasses the DOCs
Allows for greater flexibility — for example, red wines can be made from a range of POR and int’l varieties w/ no min limit for Castelão
167
Where is Tejo
Tejo is located inland from Lisboa region and is named after the Tejo river (River Tagus) that runs through it
168
How has the location of vineyard area evolved in Tejo?
in the past, production was focused on volume and the vineyards on the fertile river banks were able to provide high yields
Following accession to the EU, substantial vineyard lands were grubbed up
New plantings of higher qual grapes have been focused on less fertile soils to the N and S of the region
169
How is Tejo VR different from Tejo DOC?
VR covers a wider area
VR permits wider variety of grapes
VR allows higher max yields and produces substantially more wine
170
Describe the climate of Tejo
Overall, Mediterranean w/ hot dry summers, mild wet winters
750mm rainfall
There are variances in climate and soil over rate region
N has higher rainfall
171
Describe the soils of Tejo
Where located and what style(s) produced
N has clay-limestone and schist (mainly produces reds)
Around the river, fertile alluvial soils mean that vine vigor needs to be carefully managed (mostly produces whites)
S has poor sandy soils (produces red and white)
172
Grape(s) of Tejo
DOC and VR both allow a range of POR and int’l
Most common reds = Trincadeira, Castelão, Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Syrah, CS
Most common white= Fernão Pires, Arinto, Alvarinho, SB, Chard
173
Describe the style of Tejo wines
most are made in a fruity style for early consumption
Tend to be A to G
$ to $$
Growing # of higher quality, premium wines being produced
