Ch 21 Portugal Flashcards
How long does Portugal’s wine growing date back?
What other “ancient” influences?
Grapes for wine have been cultivated for many centuries
Historians believe wine was made in the Tagus and Sado Valleys as far back as 2000BCE (vines planted by Tartessians who originated in what is now Andalucía in SW ESP)
Phoenicians brought more vines
Further advanced by Greeks, then Romans
What is one of the most important alliances that affects the POR wine industry?
Alliance w/ England for over 600 yr
POR became a major supplier to England after Treaty of Windsor, signed 1386
Then, more recently, the Methuen Treaty of 1703
Several centuries of off and on wars between England and France —> England turned to POR when FR wines were forbidden or punitively taxed
Which wines were among the first to be traded from POR to England? What followed?
light, astringent red wines from what is now Vinho Verde in NW POR
Eventually followed by Port from the Douro Valley
Then, later, wines from around Lisbon
What happened to the POR wine industry in the 19th and much of 20th century?
Peninsular Wars and POR Civil War around same time FR and ESP wines started becoming increasingly popular in Europe
1867, phylloxera devastated many regions
40 yr rule of Antonio de Oliveira Salazar (from 1932) focused more on qty
Co-ops given preferential rights, leading to >100 being founded 1950-60s
Co-ops badly equipped and run, generally poor qual, high volume, tarnishing reputation
However, 2 very successful brands launched: Mateus and Lancers Rosés
What wines brought POR onto the modern wine scene? When?
Two incredibly successful brands:
Mateus Rosé 1942
Lancers Rosé 1944
In late 1980s, Mateus Rosé and white made up >40% of Portugal’s still, unfortified wine exports (no where near as dominant today)
When did POR return to Democracy?
Join the EU?
The Carnation revolution and a return to democracy in the 1970s
Joined EU in 1986
What happened to PORs wine trade in the 1970s?
Carnation Revolution and return to democracy led to lifting of production restrictions and trade restrictions
This period also saw low-interest loans and grants to encourage producers to make their own wines (vs co-op)
W/o gov’t protections, co-ops had to adapt or close
Finance from EU brought modernization of PORs infrastructure, research & training programs, investment in modern grape growing and winemaking equipment (such as temp controlled SS)
How did the debt crisis in the early 2000s affect POR wine industry?
EU and IMF bailout —> austerity program made further development of export markets imperative
POR was able to provide ripe red wines and fresh whites at inexpensive to mid-price, while also offering unique indigenous varieties for wine enthusiasts
Describe POR’s climate overall
West is strongly influenced by the Atlantic — cool, rainy weather, particularly in NW
Mountain ranges protect many more inland regions which have warmer, drier continental climate
The S is warmer and drier, with rolling hills and plains
Highlight the soils types of POR
Schist or Granite are common in mountainous regions such as Vinho Verde, Douro, Dão, as well as hilly outcrops in Alentejo
Coast and further S, such as Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo and Peninsula de Setubal have more varied soils: some have clay w/ high limestone, others have sandy
There are some fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks, such as in Tejo
How has the area under vine changed in the last 30 years in POR?
Any particular regions?
as of 2018, 190k ha,
representing a reduction of 85k ha
Reduction mainly from highly fertile (alluvial) soils in Tejo, but also Vinho Verde / Minho
What area of POR has seen an increase in investment and growth in the wine industry?
Why?
How is the region different compared to others in POR?
Alentejo
Warm, sunny, dry climate
Flat topography allowing for mechanization
EU funds have allowed recruitment of consultant winemakers that allowed region to make soft, ripe style that was popular on both domestic and int’l markets
Has large # of estates w/ large, relatively young vineyard holdings, set up for tourism (close to Lisbon) vs smaller landholders elsewhere
What % of wine production takes place on POR mainland?
Over 99% is POR mainland
Remainder in islands of Madeira and the Azores (not part of D3)
What hazards have caused problems for the industry in recent years?
climate change has brought drought, especially in continental regions such as Douro, Dão, Altentejo
Extreme weather such as hail
Wildfires — hit Dão 2017
Wet weather in coastal regions —> poor fruit set, then fungal later season
Trunk disease esca and vineyard pest European grapevine moth common
How are most vines trained?
majority are either cordon or replacement cane, and VSP trellised
Significant # of old bush vines can be found in Douro and certain areas of Alentejo, w/ much smaller % in Dão and Bairraada
Bush vines are often “field blends” whereas modern (1980s) vineyards are typically 1 variety or varietal blocks
Is irrigation allowed in POR?
historically, regions had to have authorization to irrigate
Now it is generally not req’d to get auth.
A degree of reg. may still exist on regional level, such as in Douro where they must notify IVDP (Instituto dos Vines do Douro e Porto) when the irrigate
Generally only used where lack of water would jeopardize qual and cannot be used to boost yields
What is the state of organic growing in POR?
about 2700 ha farmed by 500 growers are certified
Low % compared to some EU countries
However, many are doing it, just not certified b/c cost
Expected to grow in future
What can be said about the grapes that are grown in Portugal overall?
Wide variety, mostly POR in origin
Although, many Int’l varieties grown, but not always allowed (Douro, Dão, Vinho Verde)
Certain varieties tend to be concentrated in specific regions (such as Castelão in Peninsula de Setubal)
Some areas that used to rely on int’l are returning to indigenousΩ
Artisanal producers are reviving native grapes that had fallen out of fashion
What is the overall style of both red and white wines in POR?
most are blends, w/ relatively few exceptions,
such as Baga in Bairrada, Encruzado in Dão, and Alvarinho in the Monção e Melgaço sub-region of Vinho Verde
What are the most planted grape varieties in POR?
Aragonez/ Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional (note, substantial amount of top 3 goes into Port)
Fernão Pires/ Maria Gomes
Castelão (black)
Trincadeira (black)
Baga (black)
Loureiro (w)
Arinto/ Pedernã (w)
Then Syrah, Roupeiro, Alicante Bouschet
How did winemaking change in POR after admission to EU? When?
EU admission 1986
Protective winemaking techniques and use of SS w/ temp control = fruity wines
De-stemming equipment led to sig improvements in tannin management for reds and use of FRO (when used) for maturation of both R&W, though some use AMO
What were traditional techniques for POR winemaking?
How has this been evolving?
Large (3000-6000L) Portuguese and Brazilian hardwood “Toneis” were commonly used
Tradition is being maintained by some, particularly in Bairrada
Similar to worldwide trend, many are being more restrained in use of new oak or time in wood, preferring to age in larger format oak
Niche revival of tones-sized vessels, though typically buying new “foudres” (sizes vary, but typically ~2000-2500L) and wooden fermenters from FR, IT, AUT
Some experiment w/ POR oak and chestnut (both common in past)
Foot treading in “lagares” (shallow fermenters often made form schist, granite, marble) or easy-to-clean SS regularly practiced
Fermenting &/or aging in clay increasing
Fermenting on skins (R & W) in clay has its own DOC Vinho de Talha in Alentejo
Where is there a DOC dedicated to fermenting wines on skins?
- Vinho de Talha DOC in Alentejo
What are the wine classifications for POR?
as a member of EU, follows PDO and PGI system of geo-indications to protect its wine regions & styles
DOC/DOP - both widely used, (DOC is traditional, DOP more modern)
31 DOCs, each has its own regs on grape growing and winemaking, and all wines must be officially tested, tasted, and approved
VR — Vinho Regional is widely used for PGI wines.
14 VRs, less stringent than PDOs, often permit int’l varieties (although some don’t)
Vinho — term for wines that are not PDO or PGI
Describe the wine biz in POR
How does it contribute to POR’s ag biz overall?
Landholders?
How has it been evolving?
Grape growing = 35% of total nat’l agriculture output, highest in world
About 85% is still, unfortified
Historically land of small holdings, where grape growing was but 1 element of subsistence farming (although that is changing)
Until Carnation Rev of 1974, growers had a ready market for grapes/ wines — sold to negociants and co-ops who produced bulk wine, which was shipped to former colonies in Africa, Angola, Mozambique
Big brands (Mateus, Lancers, Casal Garcia of Vinho Verde) still largely sourced from growers divorced from winemaking & sales
However, negociants have acquired vineyards to diversify, increase qual
More producers starting to produce their now estate wine
Co-ops have been decreasing, although 73 still active
Trend of winemakers who own no vineyards but select from old, often neglected or unfashionable varieties
What is an example of a negociant that has acquired vineyards?
Sogrape
Since 198s has acquired leading Port brands and estates in Vinho Verde, the Douro, Dão, Alentejo, Lisboa
Biggest wine co in POR, w/ revenue > total of next 7 biggest producers combined
Where does POR fit in the world rankings of wine production? Export?
Top export markets by volume vs value
currently 12th in production
But 9th in exports
Largest by volume (including fortified & sparkling) = FR, Angola, GER, UK
Largest by value = FR, US, UK, Brazil
What body contributes to the POR wine biz?
Wines of Portugal
Founded 2010, w/ focus of promoting and educating consumers nd trade in export markets on POR wines
Where is Vinho Verde?
NW corner of Portugal
Atlantic to the West
Spain (Rias Baixas) to the North w/ River Minho forming border
Mountains of Peneda-Gerês National Park to E
Extends beyond the Douro in the S
Describe the climate of Vinho Verde
How does it vary by location?
Rainfall and implications
Moderate Maritime thanks to Atlantic + network of river valleys that funnel Atlantic winds inland
as land gradually rises to the E, climate becomes more continental —> warmer, drier sub-regions can grow later-ripening grape varieties such as Avesso and produce wines w/ more body & alc, notably Alvarinho
Rainfall as much as 1500mm (!) falling throughout the year -> vintage variation!!!
Describe the soils of Vinho Verde
as land gradually rises to the E, soils become poorer
Much of the vineyard area is granitic bedrock w/ shallow topsoil of decomposed granite w/ a sandy texture, providing good drainage
Natural fertility is low —> fertilizers such as manure commonly needed
Which sub-regions of Vinho Verde lend themselves to later-ripening varieties? Why?
Baião and Monção e Melgaço, which are more inland, thus more continental, warmer, drier
Can grow Avesso and Alvarinho
What are common vineyard management practices in Vinho Verde?
since (relatively high) rainfall throughout year, need to manage air circ
Traditional method was to train vines up trees, or on trellises over terraces
Most modern are now rows, either single or double Guyot (replacement cane) with VSP, or lyre
All are trained relatively high to increase air circ and reduce rot
Summer pruning used such as removing lateral shoots, leaf removal, green harvesting (for productive varieties) to enhance ripening and improve air circ
What grape(s) in Vinho Verde?
as recently as 1960s, 80% of production was reds
By 2008, 70% was white, increasing to 81% in 2019 (14% red, 5% rosé)
Loureiro (Loureira in ESP) is most widely grown, mainly toward coast
Alvarinho (Albariño in Rias Baixas) 2nd, traditionally grown in N
Pederña (aka Arinto) is 3rd
Avesso, Trajadura (Treixadura),
Vinhão (Sousão) is the most planted black
Describe the Loureiro grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
most widely grown, predominantly toward coast
Mid-ripening
M+ acidity
Citrus, pear, floral, and herbal
Describe the Alvarinho grape in Vinho Verde
Contributes to wine?
Where grown
Albariño in ESP Rias Baixas
2nd most widely grown
Citrus, peach, sometimes tropical
M+ body
M+ to high acid
Traditionally grown almost exclusively in area just S of ESP border in Monção e Melgaço but now spread b/c high quality
Describe the Pederña grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
Aka Arinto
Mid-ripening
More neutral than Loureiro or Alvarinho
Subtle citrus, apple
High acid
Describe the Avesso grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
Where grown
late ripening
Can fail to fully ripen unless weather conditions warm & dry
Tends to be grown inland and in the S, particularly in Baião sub-region b/c warmer & drier
Lower acid than some other varieties
Relatively full-body
Citrus, stone fruit
Describe the Loureiro grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
aka Treixadura in ESP Rias Baixas
Low acid
Apple, peach
Usually blended w/ varieties w/ higher acid
Describe the Vinhão grape in Vinho Verde
Ripening
Contributes to wine?
aka Sousão in Douro and Sousón in Galicia ESP
By far the most planted black grape
Deeply colore
Cherry fruit
High acid
Describe winemaking for inexpensive, high volume wines in Vinho Verde
May use sourced fruit from across the region and a blend of varieties
Protective methods and cool fermentation in SS
Bottled for release soon after end of ferment
CO2 often added at bottling to give a light spritz
Describe the style of an inexpensive, high volume Vinho Verde
can be white, red, rosé but mainly white (described here)
Low alcohol
M+ to high acid
Apple, citrus, and/or peach flavors depending on grape varieties used
Some have small amount RS
Usually G, made by a co-op or merchant
Describe a higher priced/ quality wine made in Vinho Verde
Often made from smaller boutique producers
Tend to be still
Growing # of single varietal and single sub-region
A few use ambient yeast
(Mostly) old oak for ferment &/or maturation
May choose to keep the wine on its lees for a few mo to enhance complexity & texture
Often mid-priced to premium
Generally VG
What are the main diffs between an high volume Vinho Verde and one that was more quality-minded
Bulk (B) = blend of grapes & regions vs VG = single varietal, single sub-region
B = protective SS ferment and little maturation vs VG = neutral oak, some maturation often on lees
Likely cultured yeast vs ambient
B more likely to have some CO2
B more likely co-op or merchant, VG more likely smaller boutique producers
What is req’d for a sub-region of Vinho Verde to be on the label?
must have min 9% abv (vs 8% for no sub-region mention)
Single varietal Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço must be made to lower max yields and have min 11.5% abv
Monção e Melgaço is only sub-region allowed to name Alvarinho on their labels as single variety
What is req’d for Alvarinho (variety) to be on the label of Vinho Verde?
Monção e Melgaço is only sub-region allowed to name Alvarinho on their labels as single variety
From 2016, other sub-regions may name Alvarinho alongside other names of other grapes as long as Alvarinho = 30% or >
Other sub-region producers must declassify their wine to Minho VR if they want to make single varietal Alvarinho
Describe the wine biz in Vinho Verde
Ownership
Exports + top countries
Fragmented ownership
Avg grower has <0.10 ha (!)
Most growers deliver grapes to co-op or merchant
Only 400 growers bottle their own wine
35% exports (growing)
Top markets = GER, USA Brazil & FR w/ USA for sales
What wine is (arguably) the most well-known of POR? Which makes the most wine?
- The Douro for both
When was the Douro DOC established? Why?
Douro DOC was established in 1982
Prior to that, Porto DOC (?) existed but was only for Fortified wines
The first ambitious Douro red was made by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida who worked at Ferreira Port
Visited BDX and was convinced unfortified wine could be made from Douro grapes
1952 = 1st vintage of Barca Velha, but wasn’t until POR joined EU in 1986 (and the financing that came with it) that the region really est’d
What is the significance of Barca Velha?
Fernando Nicolau de Almeida made the 1st vintage of non-fortified Douro wine
What was the process of making the 1st unfortified red wine in the Douro?
Cooling of fermentation tanks w/ ice brought upriver from Matosinhos (fishing port W of Porto city)
Experimentation w/ different grapes, diff ferment vesses, and diff types of oak
Finally settled on Tina Roriz (Aragonez, Tempranillo) for majority and local POR grapes for rest
Describe the location of the Douro wine region
Runs the course of the Douro river over 100km/60mi
Starts last the river turns west at the border w/ Spain
Finishes just W of Mesão Frio (about 100km/60mi inland from Oporto)
Western limit marked by the Serra do Marão — 1415m at highest point — shields Douro region from worst of cooler, damper Atlantic weather
Describe the sub-regions of the Douro
Baixa Corgo in the west
Cima Corgo in the middle
Douro Superior (upper Douro) in the East
Describe the climate of the Douro and its sub-regions
Douro overall is warm continental
Protected by the Serra do Marão — 1415m at highest point, protecting region from cooler, damper Atlantic weather
Westernmost Baixo Corgo is coolest, wettest (900mm/yr)
Middle Cima Corgo is warmer & drier w/ 700mm/yr
Eastern Douro Superior is hot and arid w/ 450mm/yr
Douro river and its tributaries provide valley sides w/ variety of aspects and altitudes —> huge range of microclimates
Describe the soils of the Douro
What main hazard?
How is it mitigated?
bedrock is schist, w/ shallow topsoil made of decomposed schist
Low organic matter and stony texture
Soil stores little water, but b/c bedrock schist splits into vertical layers, vine roots can break through it in search of water — esp important for hillside vineyards not set up for irrigation and the dry, drought-prone climate
In 2019, IVDP relaxed irrigation regs to allow when hydric stress jeopardizes quality (as distinct from QUANTITY). If area authorized for irrigation, producer only needs to notify IVDP if they do it
What are Patamares*
these are wider planted terraces supported by a steep ramp of earth rather than a stone wall (as with socalcos).
They run diagonally up and down the slope
Describe the Douro Superior (rainfall, climate, plantings)*
it is the warmest and driest of the 3 sub-regions of Port
450mm of rainfall vs 900mm Baixo Corgo, 700mm Cima Corgo
Drought is a frequent issue
Sparsely planted
Relatively flat which allows mechanization so plantings are increasing
What are the 3 main vineyard layouts of the Douro Valley?*
Socalcos
Patamares
Vinha ao Alto
What are Socalcos?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock
Not typically suitable for mechanization so not typically considered for planting new vineyards
Those of the Douro are protected by UNESCO so cannot be converted to other layouts
What is the typical planting density for Socalcos? When is this varied?*
allow for planting densities of 6000 vines/hectare
Can be planted at lower densities to allow for a small tractor to enter the terraces to reduce need for labor
What are Patamares?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
terraces supported by a steep earth ramp rather than a stone wall (as would be for Socalcos)
They allow for small tractors to run up and down the slopes by the use of tracks than run diagonally up the slope
Cheaper to implement and maintain than Socalcos
However erosion and weeds on the ramps can be problematic
What are the typical planting densities for Patamares?*
3000-3500 vines/ hectare, as the ramps take up a lot of space
What are the two types of Patamares?
How do they compare?*
Large, wide patameres that support 2 rows of vines on each terrace
Original style
Makes efficient use of land, but uneven ripeness can be an issue
Narrow patamares that only support 2 row of vines
More modern version carved by newer, smaller bulldozers
Often use laser tech to ensure precise construction
Often tilted slightly toward the slope and also from 1 side to the other to improve water absorption and drainage + reduce erosion
Fewer problems of uneven ripening
What are Vinha ao Alto?*
1 of 3 Port vineyard layouts
Vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes
Least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high-density planting (~5000 vines/ ha)
Why would a vintner like to use Vinha ao Alto? What are the limitations?*
least expensive option to plant and maintain
Allows for relatively high density planting (~5k vines/ha)
Efficient use of the land
However, above 40% incline, mechanization cannot be used, therefore in these situations patamares are more likely
Water runoff and erosion can be significant problems
How are vines typically trained / pruned in the Douro?*
cordon-trained and spur-pruned or
Head-trained and cane-pruned
VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure and ripening, and allow for mechanization where viable
What rootstocks are used in Douro?*
drought-tolerant rootstocks such as 110R and 1103P
Both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri
What are the main viticultural hazards in the Douro?
late spring frosts in highest altitude vineyards
In some years, cool, wet weather during the early summer which disrupts flowering & fruitiest
Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot, especially in the wetter Baixo Corgo
What are the key vineyard management practices in the Douro?*
canopy management and spraying with fungicides to combat mildew and bunch rot
Fertilizers may be used as necessary to improve poor nutrient status
Herbicides may be required to control weeds that grow on slopes of patamares and compete w/ vines for water and nutrients (mower may be used instead if there is space)
On vinha ao alto slopes, cover crops may be grown to prevent erosion improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce the presence of weeds
Many are shifting to sustainable or organic techniques where possible
