Ch 11 Germany Flashcards
What % of Germany’s vineyards is Riesling? Where does Germany rank globally with this variety?
Almost 1/4 of GER’s total vineyard area is Riesling
GER is comfortably the world’s largest producer
What style do you expect from GER Riesling?
Full range of styles, from dry to lusciously sweet
Its sweet styles are among the world’s finest
What type(s) of wine typically come to mind when thinking of GER wines?
For many, GER is synonymous w/ Reisling
For others, GER is synonymous w/ inexpensive wines made w/ medium sweetness, produced from varieties such as Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, specifically developed to produce high yields of ripe grapes in the challenging climate
What GER wine dominated the market in the 1980s?
Inexpensive, medium sweet wines produced from Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, known as Liebfraumilch
These were labeled under brands such as Black Tower and Blue Nun
These accounted for ~60% of all GER wine exports
What happened to GER’s wine market after the 1980s?
Consumers, particularly in the important domestic market, turned to drier styles of wine (rather than the Liebfraumilch that had been popular)
GER’s reputation as a quality wine producer is only slowly starting to recover
Describe key history moments in German winemaking
Some of the most famous and influential vineyards date back to middle ages, including Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach in Rheingau (both planted 12th century)
Followed by rapid expansion; by beginning of 16th century, GER wines were widely exported, helped by proximity to the Rhine
Industry went into rapid decline in 17th century due to the Thirty Years War when flatter plains were taken for grain for bread & beer
Vineyards were pushed to steeper slopes, which remain today
Took centuries to recover
1830s = intro of new wine laws based on grape must weight, which also remains today
GER only became a unified country in 1871
Late 19th-Early 20th Century = eat’d GER’s now-famous wine institutes, such as Hochschule Geisenheim U in Rheingau and the Julius Kühn-Institut in Pfalz
By end of 19th Century, GER eat’d reputation for some of world’s finest wines
Then, major decline, first due to phylloxera & mildew, then due to 2 World Wars
How did the 2 world wars affect area under vine in GER?
How does that compare to now?
Vineyard area halved in the 50 years to 1945
However, it is doubled since
What GER institutions have played a vital role in modernizing the GER wine industry?
Germany’s famous wine institutes, such as…
Hochschule Geisenheim University in Rheingau
Julius Kühn-Institute in Pfalz
They have helped to make the industry amount the world’s most technologically advanced
What happened to the GER wine industry after the 2 world wars?
Both wars had a devastating effect on GER’s economy and exports
High volumes of inexpensive wine started to be produced
Grapes that could ripen reliably YOY (such as Müller-Thurgau) were usually a key part of the blend
Grapes would be sourced from multiple regions, to ensure volume
At same time, GER started vineyard restructuring program called “Flurbereinigung” which consolidated many small, fragmented vineyards , built access roads to increase efficiency, make mechanization easier, and reduce costs
What is “Flurbereinigung”
What implications?
A process begun after WWII to consolidate many small, fragmented vineyards and to build access roads
This was done to increase efficiency, make mechanization easier, and to reduce costs of viticulture
Without the process, many vineyards would not have become economically viable
However, in some areas (particularly the Mosel) abandoned vineyards can sell be seen, although some people are trying to re-cultivate the areas (well-est’d producers, highly motivated young winemakers)
What is “the fifth German wine law”?
When was it created?
In 197, although a # of wine laws had been passed before
Laid the foundation for modern GER wine production
Established protected geo labelling and classification of wine styles based on must weights (note, 1830s saw wine laws around must weights)
What is the focus of GER wine production today?
Bulk wines still dominate production
The past 30 years or so have seen an increased focus on quality which is slowly attracting global attention
Describe the location and climate of GER vineyards
Implications?
With the exception of Baden, most of GER’s wine producing regions lie around 49-50 degrees N (among most N in world)
Overall, the climate is cool continental
Cold winters —> Spring frost is a risk (mitigated by slopes); Eiswein production possible
Summers are warm and wet; rainfall 500-800mm/yr, mostly in summer —> increased fungal disease, grape dilution, sometimes hail
AU is warm and dry —> long ripening period
Morning mists from rivers ideal for botrytis
Why is site selection so important in GER?
What implications
Most of GER’s vineyards are located between 49-50 degrees N latitude, among the N-most in the world, making for a cool climate
Therefore, most vineyards are situated along the river Rhine and its tributaries, so the river can radiate heat, moderate temps, and extend the growing season
Where are GER’s best vineyards?
- Often on steep, S-facing slopes to maximize sun exposure
How steep are some of the slopes in the Mosel?
- Extremely steep, reaching gradients of 70%
Why are long, dry autumns helpful for grape growing in GER?
Allows for long ripening periods
This allows grapes to develop high levels of natural sugar req’d for “Prädikatswein”
Morning mists ideal for botrytis development
What factors help shelter vineyards from cold winds and the worst of the rain?
Mountain ranges such as the Taunus and Haart
How does Baden’s climate compare to the majority of GER’s vineyard areas?
Baden is further S, stretching to the Swiss border
It is noticeably drier, warmer, and sunnier
However, in cooler areas, spring frosts can still be a concern
Describe the soils in the Mosel and Ahr
Implications
Dark-colored slate retains heat during the day and radiates it out again at night, helping to ripen fruit in these cool regions
What soils are common in Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, and Franken?
What grapes thrive here?
Significant pockets of calcareous soils
Spätburgunder (PN), Weissburgunder (PB) and Chardonnay are mainly planted on these calcareous soils
In Franken, it produces some of the best Silvaner
What is the biggest soil challenge for GER vineyards?
Erosion
Vineyard owners regularly are forced to winch soil and rocks back up the slopes, adding to costs
How many ha under vine does GER have (2018)? Where does this rank them w/in Europe?
What is annual production
Around 100k ha
Seventh largest area under view in Europe
Around 9MM hL / year
What are average yields like in GER
Vary from region to region
In areas such as Rheinhessen and Pfalz, can average over (!) 100 hL/ha, and in the past were even higher
In 1980s, were forced by EU regs to impose lower max yields
Still around 150 hL/ha for Deutscher Wein and Landwein and 105 hL/ha for Qualitätswein
Quality-minded producers (such as VDP) have much lower yields
75 hL/ha for Gutswein and Ortswein
60 hL/ha for Erste Lage
50 hL/ha for Grosse Lage
Why is vintage variation decreasing in GER?
Some is due to climate change
There have also been significant advances to vineyard management techniques, led by the various research institutes
Fruit ripeness has been improved by better clonal selection (esp amongst black grapes), summer pruning, green harvesting and selective hand harvesting
What are the typical vineyard management practices in GER?
Good canopy management is essential to max sun exposure and improve air circulation to reduce fungal disease caused by wet summers
Vines WERE traditionally staked individually w/ canes tied at top. Req’s labor-intensive and hard-to-find skills
All but steepest slopes now use single and doubly replacement-cane pruning w/ canes arched in the trellis
Arching is thought to improve the flow of sap in the vine and increase the # of viable buds, in turn increasing yields
What portion of GER vineyards are organic?
GER is not widely suited to organic and biodynamic b/c of disease risk (much summer rain)
Despite this, around 9% of GER’s vineyards are certified organic
There is also considerable support for sustainable viticulture
What factors make organic certification difficult in GER?
Summer rains lead to disease pressure
In the Mosel, the only practicable way to spray is by helicopter, and it is likely that spays would drift only neighboring vineyards, risking an organic producer’s accreditation
What makes the topography of GER so challenging?
Many vineyards are planted on slopes
On steeper slopes, vineyards are terraced or planted up the slopes
Mechanization is difficult or even impossible
In some cases, they slopes are so steep that equipment and workers have to be winched up and down
New tech is being intro’d — such as small caterpillar tractors that can negotiate steep slopes
Why is it common for Riesling to be planted on the steep slopes of GER?
Steep slopes increase costs significantly
Often only Riesling can command appropriate, sustainable prices
What implications are there to GER wine laws that require some wines to be hand-harvested?
GER’s labor costs are often higher than other wine-producing countries
This means that the wine has to be able to fetch prices that justify this cost
Historically, what grape(s) planted in GER?
Has this changed?
In 1980, 90% of grapes planted were white grapes that could tolerate the cold conditions, such as Riesling and/or those bred specifically for that purpose (Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Kerner)
In 2017, 39% of plantings were black, a significant increase
How has Germany’s red wine changed?
Must of GER’s red used to be light and fruity, often w/ RS
Quality improved greatly, thanks to better clones, particularly of Spätburgunder and Dornfelder, better vineyard management and winemaking techniques, as well as increasing temps in the vineyard
Is it common for grape varieties to appear on GER wine labels?
Grape varieties are not required to be stated on GER labels but usually are
What are the top grape varieties in GER?
Riesling ~23% of plantings
Müller-Thurgau
Spätburgunder (~11.5%)
Dornfelder (R)
Grauburgunder
Weissburgunder
Silvaner (W)
Describe the Riesling grape (in GER)
Susceptibilities and resistances
Budding & ripening
Style(s) of wine
Can survive cold GER winters
Late budding & thick wood —> frost resistant
Late ripening —> needs good sun exposure and dry autumns
Produces high-quality wines in a full range of styles from dry to sweet
Retains high acidity even when fully ripe
Susceptible to botrytis, ideal for making sweet wines
Describe the typical aromas for Riesling
Depending on ripeness, fruit flavors can range from green fruit to tropical
Can also show floral aromas such as white flowers or honeysuckle
W/ age, develop toast, honey and petrol-like aromas
Describe the Müller-Thurgau grape (in GER)
Aka
Type
Ripeing
Yields
Plantings
Style
Sometimes known as Rivaner
One of the earliest GER crosses (Riesling x Madeleine Royal)
Earlier ripening than Riesling
Can produce high yields in almost any conditions
GER’s most planted grape in ‘70s-80s; plantings have fallen by 1/2 as popularity of inexpensive wines fell
Widely used in inexpensive blends such as Liebfraumilch
Much lower acidity than Riesling (generally M)
Wines have less structure
Describe wine made w/ Müller-Thurgau
M acidity
Less structure and character than Riesling
Produces wines w/ attractive yet simple floral and fruity aromas
Easy drinking
Generally inexpensive
Describe Spätburgunder (in GER)
Most planted black grape (11.5% plantings)
Rising in popularity both domestically and for export
Plantings have almost tripled
Thrives in warmer areas of GER such as Baden
Describe typical GER Spätburgunder wine
Sweetness
Winemaking (oak? Stems?)
Quality
Dry
Often has oak aging
Some producers use whole bunch fermentation; the tannins from the stems contribute to tannins w/o needing use oak for this purpose
Producers tending to use less new oak and some are using more larger oak vessels than 10-20 yr ago
Generally high quality, complex
Describe Dornfelder (in GER)
Type
Growth
Where planted
The most significant black GER cross
Grown from 0 to 2nd most planted black grape in past 30 yr
Particularly successful in Rheinhessen and Pfalz, where it is the most-planted black variety, ahead of PN/Spätburgunder
Describe GER Dornfelder wines
Color
Acidity
Aromas
Style(s)
Deep color
High acidity
Fruity, floral notes
2 distinct styles
Easy drinking, usually w/ a little RS, w/ aromas of sour cherry and blackberry
More complex style w/ aging potential produced from lower yields, showing greater focus on tannins and structure, fermented or aged in oak
Describe Silvaner (in GER)
Aka
Plantings trent
Acidity
Aromas
Budding & ripening + implications
aka Sylvaner in Alsace
Plantings have halved since 1980, although decline stabilized now
Lower acidity and less aromatic than Riesling
Produces large amount of simple, inexpensive wine w/ subtle fruit aromas that can range from green to tropical
Early budding and early ripening —> susceptible to spring frosts but can be picked b4 temps fall in AU
Describe GER wines made of Silvaner
Acidity
Aromas (for basic and higher quality)
M to M+ acidity
Subtle fruit aromas that range from green fruit to tropical fruit
When yields are controlled (Franken in particular) can produce high-quality, dry, M body wines w/ M to M+ acidity and distinctive earthy character
Describe Grauburgunder wines from GER
Quality
Maturation
Acidity
Aromas
Body
Sweetness
Can produce VG quality wines
Some are aged in oak
From heavier soils can produce wines w/ M acidity
Aromas of stone fruit + tropical (sometimes dried) fruit + honey
Range from fuller-bodied, sweeter wines (often labeled as Ruländer)
Describe Weissburgunder wines from GER
Quality
Maturation
Acidity
Aromas
Can produce VG quality wines
Often aged in oak
M+ acid
Delicate citrus and stone fruit
Describe Chardonnay in GER
How long produced
Maturation
Where
Only allowed in GER since 1990
Plantings low but high quality examples are being produced
Often w/ oak aging
Often in warmer ares in S Pfalz, and Kaiserstuhl in Baden
What black grapes are used in GER for simple, fruity wines for drinking young?
Portugieser
Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier)
Trollinger (Schiava)
Limburger, although some higher quality examples are being produced
Why was Müller-Thurgau developed? When?
Developed in the 1880s (1st of the white crosses developed)
White grape developed to cope w/ GER’s cool climate
Why did the # of new crossings developed in GER increase rapidly in the mid-20th century?
A drive to produce high yields of grapes w/ high must weights was encouraged by GER wine laws
Unfortunately most of the new varieties produced wines w/ high level of sugar but w/o sufficient acidity or aromatic character to balance it
Is enrichment allowed in GER winemaking?
Yes, and it is commonly practiced,
Becoming rare outside bulk wine production due to consistently riper fruit
However, it is not allowed in Prädikatswein
The levels depend on which EU Zone the wine region falls in
Zone A (Most of GER’s wine regions) allows enrichment of up to 3% abv
Zone B (Baden) = up to 2% abv
Are acidification and/or de-acidification allowed in GER?
De-acidification is allowed
Acidification is allowed but only in the hottest years
These tend only to be used for high volume, inexpensive wine
What are the traditional fermentation and maturation vessels used in GER?
Is this changing?
Traditionally, large old oak casks to allow some O2; some producers of premium Riesling still do this today
Range of casks. Ex: 1000L Fuder of Mosel, 1200L Oval-shaped Stück used along the Rhine
GER oak, especially from Pfalz is particularly popular for large vessels, as is oak sourced from Central Europe
FR oak is common for smaller vessels such as barriques
Ferment in SS has become the norm
Used for inexpensive wines for ease of temp control and cleaning as well as ability to purchase extremely large vessels; doesn’t intro any O2 or add any flavors, so a common choice for mid-priced and premium Riesling (as well as other varieties such as Silvaner) to maintain primary aromas
New oak rarely used for Riesling as it could mask primary aromas
Proportion of new oak may be used for red wines, as well as Grau- and Weiss-burgunder, and Chardonnay
How were sweet wines in GER made in the 1960s and ‘70s?
All but the finest wines w/ RS were initially fermented to dryness then sweetened post-fermentation (even at the Prädikatswein level)
This was done by the addition of Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must)
What is Süssreserve? What rules surround making of it? How is it made?
Unfermented or partially-fermented grape must
Must be produced from grapes of the same region and the same quality level as the wine to which it is added
It is common for the Süssreserve and wine to come from the same must
Producers take a small proportion of must pre-ferment, clarify, chill and protect it w/ SO2, then add it back to the fermented wine to create the desired level of sweetness
Added to the dry wine just prior to bottling
What can be said about wines made by addition of Süssreserve?
Süssreserve is thought to give less-balanced wines
While many commercial wineries still use this process, quality-conscious producers follow the traditional method of making sweet wines by stopping ferment by adding SO2, racking or filtering
How can a wine be made sweet under GER law?
By stopping fermentation by adding SO2, racking or filtering (always allowed)
By adding Süssreserve (unfermented or partially-fermented grape must) — allowed, but generally not practiced by quality-minded producers
By adding RCGM (rectified concentrated grape must) — can only be used for Deutscher Wein
Comment the fermentation process for GER Beerenauslese, Eiswein, and Trockenbeerenauslese
Must Weights and implications
How long?
Resulting abv
Grapes have very high must weights
Fermentation usually proceeds very slowly — ex: TBA can take several months
Usually the ferment will stop naturally due to the high sugar levels, leaving high RS and low alcohol (5.5-8% abv)
What is the trend relative to sweetness in GER wines?
Since the late 1980s, there has been a dramatic shift in the GER domestic market toward drier wines
Vast majority of GER wines are now dry (trocken) or off-dry (halbtrocken)
Nevertheless, top producers remain committed to producing high-quality wines w/ some degree of sweetness
The best examples are among the finest in the world and have an enthusiastic following
What was one reason that sweetness was used for GER winemaking?
Sweetness was often used to mask high acidity and bitterness from under-ripe grapes
However, GER producers have learned how to ensure Riesling ripens fully and how to produce wines which balance sugar, acid and fruit character
How are GER red wines typically made?
Production varies according to quality and price
Inexpensive wines designed for early consumption
Often undergo thermovinificaiton for quick extraction of color and flavor
Wine can then be fermented off the skins to produce a fruity red wine w/ low tannins
Typically not oak matured
Higher quality red wines, most particularly PN
Techniques such as cold maceration, whole cluster ferment, and maturation in oak are common
What proportion of GER wines are rosé?
Relatively small production, making up almost 11% of domestic sales
Tend to be sold domestically
Typically inexpensive
Describe GER rosé wines
Typically inexpensive and sold domestically
Most are youthful, fruity
Most are fermented at cool temps in SS
Bottled for release soon after ferment
A small # of quality-focused producers make higher-priced, often aged in oak
When does GER’s current wine law date to? When was it revised?
Current laws date to 1971
Have been amended considerably since then
Criticized as confusing to consumers
Revised in 2021, to be phased in through 2025
