Ch20 Spain Flashcards
How long is the history of wine production in Spain?
- Evidence of vine cultivation goes back over 5000 yr
When did Spain become important to wine trading?
Around 1100 BCE
when sea-faring Phoenicians founded the city of Cádiz on S coast of Spain
They brought wine-making expertise
Name some of the historical key influences on Spain’s wine history up to the 18th century
1100 BC Phoenicians bring winemaking expertise to Cádiz; area wine trade established
Carhaginians brought improved winemaking techniques
Then Romans do the same, bringing stability and huge increase in production volumes, being exported across the empire (Roman Empire ~625BC—476AD)
Moors take over in 711, didn’t drink wine but allowed grape growing, and some winemaking & consumption by others
Overthrow by Christians restored wine production, w/ evidence of exports out of Bilbao to English ports during 13th century
Wars created commercial turbulence, but Spain’s colonies shielded the industry somewhat as an outlet for export
What main influences occurred in Spain’s winemaking in the 18th century?
Unfortified winemaking progressed little from Roman times
Although Rioja was est’d as a leading wine region, it wasn’t high quality and little was exported
Late 18th century, Manuel Quintano & Cuintano traveled to Bordeaux and brought back oak barriques
However, few adopted b/c it was ruled that there could be no price differential so no one wanted to use $$$ barrels even if quality was better
What was noteworthy to Spain’s winemaking in the 19th century?
Spanish civil wars of mid-19th centuryLuciano de Murriet and the Marqués de Riscal sought exile in Bordeaux,
When they returned, they put newly-found expertise to use, including maturation in barriques
Quality eventually convinced local gov’t and other producers that this was the way forward
A few yrs later, phylloxera arrived in FR, devastating vineyards, so Rioja’s wine benefitted given its similarity to wines of BDX
This prompted new wineries to be founded around the railway station in Haro for easy bulk shipment to FR to augment what little FR wine was being produced
However, Phylloxera eventually reached Rioja and rest of Spain in early 20th century. While by that time the cause and remedy were known, there was substantial decrease of production
What happened to Spain’s wine industry in the early 20th century?
Phylloxera, which had hit FR earlier, eventually reached Rioja and rest of Spain in early 20th century.
While by that time the cause and remedy were known, there was substantial decrease of production
At the same time, FR wasn’t demanding as much wine from ESP b/c their industry was recovering
Additionally, ESP had lost its colonies so export markets shrunk
Cost to humans was immense, w/ massive unemployment causing significant poverty and emigration
Wine production gradually recovered
What organizations were established in Spain as a result of the turmoil of the early 20th century?
In 1907 the Rioja Wine Exporters’ Syndicate was founded w/ aim of guaranteeing the authenticity of Rioja wine in export markets
In 1926, Rioja became the first ESP wine region to est a regulatory council (Consejo Regulador)
What hampered Spain’s wine industry through much of the 20th century?
Civil War of 1936-39 left country under dictatorship for nearly 40 yr
Loss of export markets during WWII
Economic isolation of General Franco’s gov’t
Wine production continued, but mainly under co-ops producing high volume, inexpensive wine
What could be considered a turning point for Spain’s wine industry in the 20th century?
Miguel Torres (of eponymous winery) studied winemaking in FR and brought learning to family wine biz in Penedès, Catalunya in early 1960’s
Planted some FR and GER varieties
Trellised vineyards
Use of temp-control and SS tanks
Established a wine lab
When did Spain return to a constitutional monarchy and democratic rule? How did that affect the wine industry?
from mid-1970s
Led to greater Econ freedom
Spain’s accession to the EU in 1986 brought further investment in wine production
Modernization swept the country w/ widespread investment in temp control, SS, improving basic wines dramatically
1996 legalization of irrigation allowed expansion
Describe the climate of Spain
Latitude range?
between 36-43 degrees N, is a warm country overall, but w/ extensive coastline, several mountain ranges, and a large plateau (the meseta), climate can vary dramatically
NW influenced by Altantic —> Maritime w/ high rain throughout year
N & NE — many vineyards sheltered from Atlantic by mountains so more continental w/ some Maritime or Mediterranean influence (depending on location)
S and E face directly onto the Med, so vineyards near sea have moderated climate w/ warm dry SU & mild WI
Central — The meseta plateau (600-900m) covers vast area; climate is continental, w/ hot days, cool nights, where altitude can help moderate heat
Describe Spain’s vineyard plantings in terms of ha under vine? How does this compare to the volume produced?
Spain has more ha under vine than any other country at 969,000
However, it is only 3rd in terms of production of wine by volume, behind IT and FR, w/ 39MM hL/ yr
Given the # of ha under vine in Spain, why does it not produce more volume of wine?
Nature of ESP’s vineyards, made up of low density, bush vines
In La Mancha, can be as low as 1k/ha (vs BDX at 4-5k for basic, 10k for top areas)
This is related to climate — some areas of ESP receive only 300mm rain/yr so low densities allows enough water for each vine
Although irrigation is permitted, it is still regulated by the Consejo Regulado for each region; some regions only permit for vine establishment or extreme drought; some regions only for start of growing season but not ripening
Why is there limited desire to pull up low density, old bush vines in ESP?
They provide good fruit quality
Even if irrigation is permitted and would allow re-planting, low yields are an asset
What are the main weather hazards in ESP?
many areas receive little or no rainfall during the growing season (drought)
When it does rain, storms are often heavy and afterward, temps rise quickly —> mildew risk
Spring frosts in areas w/ continental climates
What pests are a problem in ESP?
Phylloxera affected many regions in early 20th century, so majority of vines are grafted to resistant rootstocks
Some areas w/ sandy soil such as w/ in Toro and Rueda, were unaffected and have old, ungrafted vines
European grapevine moths — generally managed w/ pheromone traps
What is the state of organic farming in ESP?
Many producers employ organic practices, but far fewer are certified
They believe that few consumers — both domestic and export — are willing to pay a premium so the cost of attaining and retaining is thought to be prohibitive
What are the average vineyard holdings in ESP?
Implication (s)
About 66% of plots are <0.5ha
A further 22% are between 0.5 and 3 ha
Despite advances in understanding of vineyard management, mechanization levels are still small
Dominated by co-ops, although negociants are common in some regions
What proportion of Spain’s grapes are white vs red?
- About evenly split, w/ slightly more red/black
What are Spain’s most planted grape varieties?
the #1 is white Airén, makes neutral $ whites for early consumpiton, mainly used for spirits
#2 is Tempranillo — makes a range
This is followed by Grenache, Bobal, Macabeo (Viura), Monastrell (Mourvedre)
Describe the Tempranillo grape in Spain
Range of quality
Ripening
Varietal or blend
widely grown across several areas
Can be made in wide range of quality
Associated highly w/ Rioja, considered to be ESP’s leading grape
Can produce M to H yields, depending on site, however quality minded producers tend to limit yields for more concentration, structure
Early ripening (temprano!) —> finesse wines in warm climate w/ cooling influence
Made varietally or as blend
Where is Garnacha Tinta mainly grown in Spain (autonomous communities)? What style(s) of wine(s)?
Autonomous communities of Rioja, Navarra, Catalunya, Aragon
Red, Rosé
Where in Spain is Macabeo mainly planted? How is it used in these places
Mainly in Catalunya where it is used for both still and sparkling wines, usually for early consumption, and in Cava
It is the main white variety of Rioja, where it is called Viura; it makes a # of inexpensive neutral whites but also leading component in many premium wines fermented & matured in oak
Where in Spain is Monastrell mainly grown?
Predominantly in Valencia and Murcia (Central E/SE)
Well suited to warm Med climate as it is late ripening and needs heat late in growing season
Describe general winemaking practices in Spain
Youthful fruity styles of red, white, rosé
protectively, SS ferment, temp control, inert gasses, cultured yeast, fining &/or filtration
Some inexpensive to mid priced young reds may undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration to enhance fruit
Generally not aging req (assuming it is “generic”)
Premium red & white
Temp controlled SS ferment also common, however some producers choosing concrete tanks or eggs; less commonly using amphorae both for ferment and maturation
Oak maturation is common
White wines that are not matured in oak are often left on lees to enhance texture
National aging legislation specifies the min times wines should spend maturing in barrels to be able to use Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, and Max capacity of 330L, but DO rules may be stricter
What are the min total aging reqs for Reds vs Rosé & White for each of the label terms in Spain?
Generic: no reqs
Each below is min mo total, then barrel, w/ Red 1st
Crianza: 24, 6, 18, 6
Reserva: 36, 12, 24, 6
Gran Reserva: 60, 18, 48, 6
What criticisms have been made of the Spanish aging reqs for wine?
some say it is both too prescriptive yet not prescriptive enough
One one hand, automatically suggests a hierarchy of qual, suggesting Gran Reserva will be highest qual, but it is not appropriate for all styles of wine
On the other hand, no qual reqs specified for wines in each category (beyond std DO regs), the age or origin of the oak is not specified, and only min is given (many age for much longer), so the categories give little indication of style, quality or value for the consumer
Why might a producer choose not to use aging terms (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) on their label?
They may not want to meet the criteria of the labeling terms — such as wanting to age in a larger vessel than the max 330L (national) or potentially lower for specific DO
May not want to follow the min time reqs
May simply believe the terms do not tell the consumer anything meaningful
In what regions of Spain are aging terms commonly seen on bottles? Where is it less common?
More common: Rioja, Ribera del Duero
Not common: Bierzo, Priorat
What does the term “Roble” indicate on a wine label?
it means “oak”
It is used mainly for reds that have been matured in oak for an unspecified duration, usually less than the req’s for Crainza
What does the term “Joven” indicate on a Spanish wine label
may be used to denote a wine that is released young, often w/ no or minimal oak aging
What can be said about the oak that is used in Spain?
Many regions traditionally use American oak, due to strong trading relationships w/ former American colonies + traditionally cheaper than FR
AMO still widely used, but use of FRO has grown, particularly in Penedès, Priorat, Ribera del Duero
What are Spanish rosés called?
What constitutes the majority of production?
How has that been changing?
What has facilitated this?
Rosado
Much is inexpensive and sold in bulk
In recent years, more VG at mid- to premium prices
Better understanding of vineyard management, improvements in winemaking, and focus on market trends has led to move away from high alcohol wines w/ over-ripe, jammy flavors
What is the traditional style of Spanish Rosé?
Deep in color
Made from mixture of black and white grapes (mainly black), macerated (sometimes beyond beginning of ferment), pressed and then fermented together.
Often matured in oak vessels, sometimes for long periods, which leads to a reduction of fruit flavors but greater texture and increased complexity (2ndary, tertiary)
What are the levels in the Spanish classification system?
Vino: wines w/o geographical indication
VT: Vino de la Tierra — commonly used for PGI wines, there are around 40, w/ biggest being Castilla
VP: Vino de Pago: a category that applies to a small # of single estates w/ high reputations (majority in Castilla-LaMancha, w/ others in Navarra, Valencia, Aragon); May only use their own grapes which must be vinified on their estate; part of PDO category
DO and DOCa/DOQ: Denominación de Origen is term for PDO wines. 70 DOs. Vast majority of vineyard plantings. Only 2 DOCa’s: Rioja and Priorat
What qualifications must be met to become a DOCa/DOQ in Spain?
Est’d min 10 years
All wines must also be bottled on producers own property
Denomination must have various quality regs in place, including a tasting assessment by external panel
Who sets the regulations for denominations in Spain? What is typically included?
Consejo Regulador
Max yields,
permitted grape varieties,
vineyard practices such as irrigation
Winemaking regs (incl min aging)
Packaging regs
Some req bottling w/in the region (Rioja, Priorat and a majority of DOs), but not all, such as LaMancha, which allows bulk shipments
Name some of Spain’s largest wine businesses for still, unfortified wines
J. García
Pernod Ricard Groupe
Miguel Torres SA
Bodegas Martín Códax
Many have wineries in several regions throughout ESP
How does Spain’s domestic consumption compare to other EU countries?
Domestic consumption is low (~10MM hL/yr)
Trend is toward drinking higher quality, higher priced wines - such as DO vs Vino
Describe the Export Market for Spain
Nature of wine exports
Main markets
Low domestic consumption
~2/3 is exported
World’s largest exporter by volume
Avg price is lowest of any major exporting country (under 1/2 of IT, 1/5 of FR)
Large % of inexpensive wine; world’s largest exporter of BULK wine — 56% of all exports —> value in supply chain lost to foreign bottler vs remaining w/ producer
Main markets are FR and GER by volume; UK, USA, and China are more important for higher priced wines
What promotional body aims to increase awareness and diversity of Spain’s food & wine products?
Foods and Wines From Spain
Individual DOs and VTs have their own Consejos Regulators that also play a role
Where is Galicia? Generally describe the weather
NW Spain
Proximity to Atlantic = cool and wet weather
Describe the wine biz in Rias Baixas DO
Size relative to rest in Galicia
Vineyard holdings
Largest producer
Largest DO in Galicia (~250k hL/yr)
Many small landholdings (4000 ha, 5500 growers)
~170 wineries ranging from small to very large producers
Co-ops dominant w/ Martin Códax largest (>300 growers)
What grapes were mainly planted after Phylloxera in Rias Baixas DO? Has that changed?
Mainly planted Palomino after Phylloxera
1970s-80s incentives to grow indigenous varieties (such as Albariño) and modernization of wineries
Describe the climate of Rias Baixas DO
Borders Atlantic = distinctly Maritime
Moderates temps = warm SU, mild WI
HIGH rainfall = 1700mm/yr, falling throughout the year = Fingal disease and rain prior to harvest are problems
What are the soils of Rias Baixas?
sand and granite
Important for good drainage where there is 1700mm rain/yr
What grape(s) important in Rias Baixas?
Why?
Albariño = over 95% of production
Well suited to damp climate b/c thick skins = less vulnerable to rot damage
Describe the Albariño grape in Rias Baixas
Skins
Ripening
thick skins = less vulnerable to rot
Early to mid-ripening = can ripen most years
Describe Albarino wines in Rias Baixas
high acid
M(-) or M body
M alc
Lemon, grapefruit, peach, sometimes floral, melon
Usually made as single varietal; when blended, includes Loureira, Treixadura, Caiño Blanco
G to VG w/ some O
$$ to $$$
Describe the Loureira grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening
Acid
Aromas
early ripening
M+ acid
Citrus, pear, floral, herbal
Describe the Treixadua grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening, acidity, aromas
Mid-ripening
Low acidity
Apple & peach
Decribe the Caiño Blanco grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening, acidity, aromas
- late ripening, high acidity, citrus flavors
Are black grapes grown in Rias Baixas?
Very small volumes = only 1% production
Sousón - same grape as Vinhão in Vinho Verde in POR)
Caiño Tinto
What can be said about the sub-zones of Rias Baixas? Describe them
there are 5 NON-contiguous sub-zones (unusual for a DO)
Val du Salnés: oldest, on coast = coolest & wettest, high acid
O Rosal: on River Miño on POR border, blends of Albariño, Loureira, Treixadura, Caiño Blanco; warmer; lower acid
Condado do Tea: inland so warmer; riper style w/ more peach fruit and slightly lower acid
Ribeira do Ulla: newest; inexpensive easy to drink
Soutomaior: smallest
What is/are the trellising system(s) in Rias Baixas?
Pergola (called “parral”) remains popular, often using granite stone supports in the humid atmosphere
Originally used so other crops could grow below
Add’l benefit of better air circa in area w/ very high rainfall
Many larger growers now use VSP to allow for mechanization
Describe the winemaking in Rias Baixas
Albariño is 95% of production
Generally protective to retain fresh fruit
White grapes may be macerated a few hours to enhance fl int and provide more texture
Cool ferment temps in SS
Some may encourage partial MLF in cool yrs to soften malic acid but not to intro butter notes
Inexpensive: released early from winery
More expensive: often stored on lees (sobre lias) 1-2 yrs or more, usually not stirred (or occasionally) which could intro O2;
a few ferment most expensive wines in oak; varies from very large old oak giving purely texture, to portion new, giving toasty vanilla notes
What is the Spanish term for Sur lie?
- Sobre lias
What % of Rias Baixas wine is exported? Top countries?
just over 25%, an increase over past several decades (in 2000, only 10%)
USA biggest, followed by UK
Beyond Rias Baixas, how does the climate change in Galicia? What grapes are grown?
Climate becomes less temperate b/c further from Atlantic
Still Maritime w/ less rainfall
All grow range of local varieties, including those of Rias Baixas (Albariño, Loureiro, Treixadura) but Godello and Mencía are 2 most-recognized
Describe Ribeiro DO
Where
Climate
grape(s)
Maturation
in Galicia, just to E of Rías Baixas
Slightly more sheltered, but still Maritime w/ temperate conditions and high rain
Produces mainly whites
Treixadura is most planted, used as varietal or lead of blend
Not usual to ferment or mature (even $$$) wine in oak
Describe Ribeira Sacra DO
Where
Climate
Terroir
In Galicia, further inland
Follows the Vally of the River Miño and River Sil E from their confluence
Mainly continental, but can have Maritime influence
Many vineyards on very precipitous and deep valley sites at various altitudes & aspects
Stony slopes provide good drainage and conduct heat = very labor intensive
Describe wines from Ribeira Sacra DO
Most important grape = Mencía
Tend to show red cherry and raspberry fruit
M body & tannins
M+ acid
Majority $$, made in fresh, early drinking style
Describe Valdeorras DO
Location
Climate
Terroir
Located further up the River Sil from Ribeira Sacra DO in Galicia NW Spain
Continental climate, w/ plentiful rain (700-1000mm/yr)
Vineyards ~300M
Diverse soils, despite area known for slate mining
Describe wines of Valdeorras DO
Reputation for good quality Godello
Citrus, stone fruit, sometimes herbal or wet stone
M+ acid
Premium versions often fermented and matured in oak for extra texture and toasty, spicy complexity
Note: Mencia (black grape) also planted here, but little of it
Describe the Monterrei DO
Location
Climate
Production focus
In NW Spain, Galicia, S of Ribeira Sacra on border w/ POR
Inland —> sheltered from ocean influence by Sierra de Larouca mountains
Continental climate w/ hot summers, relatively low rainfall
Much of production is $ bulk wine, but starting to make some good quality Mencía and fruity Godello
Describe Castilla y León
Autonomous community covers vast area in N of ESP
Made up of high-altitude plateau (northern part of the meseta)
Mountains to the N and S
Many of its regions have continental climates, tho some Maritime influence in W
Describe Bierzo DO
Location
Climate
NW of Castilla y León
Climate sim to some of Galician regions but still further inland so warmer summers, cooler winters, lower rain
Mountains or hills on 3 sides but opens to W allowing Maritime influence
Marked vintage variation b/c sometimes cool & wet, sometimes warm & dry
What was Bierzo DO’s reputation? When/how did that change?
Until recently, made rustic wines for locals
Arrival of Alvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez in late 1990s demonstrated that it could make high qual
Attracted by slate slopes, similar to what they were used to in Priorat
What is/are the key grape(s) of Bierzo DO?
similar to Galician regions
Mencía is key black grape at 75% of plantings
Some Godello w/ other white Galician varieties grown
Describe the Mencía grape in Bierzo
Ripening and implications
early to mid ripening
Can lose characteristic M+ to high acidity quickly and accumulate sugar resulting in high alc if picked too late
Describe Bierzo DO red wine
Mencia must be min 70%, w/ Alicante Bouschet making up diff but only 2% of plantings, so many are 100% Mencia
M+ to H acid (but can lose it quickly)
Range from light bodied and fruity w/ M tannins to more concentrated examples w/ fuller body, higher tannins, depending on growing conditions & winemaking
Describe the vineyard locations of Bierzo DO
Inexpensive vs higher quality
Flat plain in the middle of the DO + lower slopes have fertile silty loam soils —> inexpensive to mid-priced wines w/ high yields
Best vineyards on hillsides at 500-850m w/ good drainage, shallow, poor slate soils —> limits vigor; altitude = diurnal swing slows sugar accumulation, retains acidity, allows tannins to develop
Describe a Bierzo DO wine made for early consumption
Where does it come from
Body, tannins, aromas, winemaking
Quality & Price
Flat plain in the middle of the DO + lower slopes
M(-) body and tannins
Red fruits, raspberry, cherry
Sometimes carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
Not usually having oak
G and $$
Describe a Bierzo DO wine made for higher quality
Where does it come from
Body, tannins, aromas, winemaking
Quality & Price
Best vineyards on hillsides at 500-850m w/ good drainage, shallow, poor slate soils
Significant % old vines (80% >60yr)
More concentration
M to M+ body & tannins
Higher alcohol
Ripe cherry and plum w/ floral or herbal
Often matured in oak, contributing spicy character but not masking delicate aromas
VG to O, $$ to $$$ w/ some $$$$
Name a significant producer from Bierzo DO
Descendientes de J. Palacios
Raul Perez
What is challenge(s) about the wine biz in Bierzo DO?
Significant diffs in volume YOY
Many small growers so mechanization is rare
Almost 1/2 of growers are associated w/ a co-op
Describe the growing environment in Toro DO
Geography & climate
in W of Castilla y Leòn on the River Duero
Inland, continental climate w/ hot SU and cold WI
Altitude 620-750m = large diurnal range w/ cool nites that help maintain acid
Spring frost can be a problem
Low rainfall
What grape(s) in Toro DO
Unique characteristics?
main grape is Tinta do Toro, considered by some to be a form of Tempranillo adapted to local climate, by others as a separate autochrhonous variety of Toro
B/c of intensity of sun, thought to have thicker skins than Tempranillo —> more color, higher tannin levels
What reqs for a Toro DO red?
- min 75% Tinta de Toro, w/ remainder Garnacha
What would a Toro DO rosé be made from? White?
Rosé: either Tinta de Toro or Garnacha
White: Malvasía or Verdejo
What are typical vine densities in Toro DO
Why
As low as 2700 vines/ha
Rainfall is low and irrigation is not permitted from June until after harvest
What can be said about the vines in Toro DO?
many old bush vines in Sandy Soils that didn’t foster phylloxera so vines were ungrafted
Around 1/5 of vines are >50yr and there are many >100
Describe a red from Toro DO
deep color
Full body
Often high alcohol (although Consejo allows max 15%)
High tannins (thick skins)
Ripe flavors of blackberry and blueberry
M+ to high acidity (cool nights)
Describe winemaking in Toro DO (red)
Inexpensive to mid-priced may have carbonic maceration to boost fruity flavors and extract less tannin = early drinking style
Premium + wines matured in oak (both AMO and FRO or mix used)
Describe the wine biz in Toro DO
long history but somewhat hampered by location far from cities or ports
Value increased as nearby Ribera del Duero gained popularity
What was the 1st winery of Ribera del Duero DO? When established?
How did the region evolve?
Vega Sicilia in late 19th century
Still considered some of highest qual of the region
Until the 1990s, there were very few other wineries in the region, but then it exploded
~9 wineries at DO formation in 1982 but >280 today
Alejandro Fernandez’s Pesquera sparked the change by winning int’l acclaim
What is the growing environment of Ribera del Duero DO?
lies in upper valley of River Duero
Similar climate to Toro and Rueda to W, though SU are hotter, WI colder, vineyards even higher altitude (750-1000m)
Frosts are a problem both in SP and AU, limiting hang time (sometimes causing serious loss)
Low rainfall 400-600mm but irrigation can be used other than during ripening period
Range of altitudes & aspects
How is frost handled in Ribera del Duero?
vine spraying w/ water (aspersion)
Heaters
Occasionally helicopters
What grape(s) in Ribera del Duero DO
Many producers grow only, or predominantly Tempranillo — here called Tinto Fino or Tinta del País
CS, Merlot, Garnacha, Malbec
White: Albillo Mayor (sm amnt can be used in red)
Use of different sites w/ different aspects and climates are useful for gaining balance, complexity and ensuring consistent yields
Describe the plantings / training of vines in Ribera del Duero
around 1/2 are bush
Around 1/4 are >50yr w/ a # > 100
Newer vineyards are often on trellises that are quicker to establish
What rules about Ribera del Duero DO? (Wine style(s), grape (s))
Originally only allowed red and rosé but now allows white
Whites: 75% must be local Albillo Mayor
Vast majority is red: min 75% Tempranillo w/ CS, Merlot, Malbec, Garnacha, Albillo (white, thought to add freshness but rarely used); many are 100% Tempranillo
Describe Ribera del Duero DO red wine
min 75% Tempranillo, likely 100%
Full bodied
Often H alc
Ripe flavors of blackberry & plum w/ vanilla & choc from new oak (FRO popular, some use blend of AMO & FRO, premium wines may get 50-100% new)
G to O, $$ to $$$$
What can be said about red winemaking in Ribera del Duero
FRO popular, some use blend of AMO & FRO, premium wines may get 50-100% new
General trend for less extraction w/ less time on skins post-fermentation and/or less new oak
Aging categories of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are commonly used, w/ Crianza the most produced, GR quite rare; majority is labeled w/o aging cat specified
Describe the wine biz in Ribera del Deuro
Vineyard holdings
Export % and markets
vast majority of growers have <1ha
Almost 20% exported
Main markets by volume = CH, MEX, USA, GER, China
Describe Rueda DO
Location
Wine style(s) and who responsible
in contrast to Toro to W and Ribera del Duero to E, Produces almost entirely whites
Until ~50 yr ago, produced oxidative fortified (some still do)
Early 70s, Marques de Riscal in Rioja considered that local Verdejo could make fruit fruity white wines consumers were demanding if it was made protectively in temp controlled SS
Describe the growing environment in Rueda DO
Similar climate to Toro and Ribera del Duero — hot, dry SU, cold WI, low rain
700-800M —> cool nights retains acidity
Limestone bedrock w/ sandy clay sub-layer then topsoil of stones = free draining, low organic matter = reduced vigor
Key grape(s) in Rueda DO
Verdejo
SB, can be blended or single varietal
Describe the Verdejo grape in Rueda — what aspect makes it suitable for the region?
relatively drought tolerant —> can deal w/ lack of rainfall
Describe Verdejo wines of Rueda
M to M+ acid
M alc
Apple, pear, peach, often w/ herbal (fennel)
Slight bitterness on finish
Can have some SB
How are vines trained in Rueda?
tend to be VSP trellised so that grapes can be harvested at night at coolest temps
There are some very old bush vines, some on sandy soils w/ pre-phylloxera roots (~10%)
Describe winemaking in Rueda DO
Inexpensive
protective w/ cool ferment in SS, bottled soon after
Cultured yeasts for reliability and promoting fruity flavors
A to G
Mid priced
Generally lees age (few mo to 1 yr) often w/ regular stirring brining body & texture
Often G
Most $$$ examples
usually still mid priced
Fermented &/or matured min oak for body, texture, aromatic complexity of toasty smoky notes
MLF avoided to retain acid
G or VG
What is required for Verdejo or SB to be varietally labeled in Rueda?
as with in all of the EU, must be in 85% named variety
It is common that they are 100%
Blends that do not meed reqs can use DO Rueda w/o varietal
What would you expect a wine labeled as DO Rueda w/o a varietal also on the label to be?
could be a blend of Verdejo and SB
However, in reality, many producers use this to denote their least expensive wine, even if it could legally be labelled as DO Rueda-Verdejo
Describe the wine biz in Rueda DO
exponential growth in last 20 yr
2000-19 production almost quadrupled
Fruity style and $ ppt extremely popular in local & int’l mkt
Competition is driving to better quality
Sales increase 7x in last 20yr
Netherlands, GER, USA and CH top export mkts
Describe Castilla y León VT
Geographic features and climate
Generally, type(s) of grape(s) grown
covers the autonomous region of the same name
Land is on N part of the meseta and is protected from Atlantic influence by mountains
Continental climate w/ SU temps moderated by altitude
Large # of grapes grown from both domestic & int’l
What is the Castilla y León VT designation used for?
producers not located w/in boundaries of DOs w/in the broader region to still have a geographic indication (PGI vs PDO)
Producers who want to use varieties outside of DO rules
Describe the Location of Rioja DOCa, chief geographic markers, size
N part of Spain, NE of main DOs in Castilla y Leon and bordered to the E by the DO of Navarra
100km/60mi long
Runs NW to SE direction along the path of the River Ebro
Reaches ~40km/25m wide in places
Sierra de Cantabria mountains to the N
Sierra de la Demanda to the S
Most vineyards are in autonomous region of La Rioja, but some fall in province of Alava in Basque Country, and a smaller # in province of Navarra
3 sub-zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Oriental
Describe the climate and mitigating factors in Rioja DOCa
Sierra de Cantabria mountains to N protect from worst Atlantic weather
Sierra de la Demanda shelters from weather from warm center of country
Some Mediterranean influence from the Ebro River that eventually empties there
Ebro has several tributaries. These valleys provide different aspects and soils
Why have some suggested a re-mapping of Rioja’s zones
While the 3 sub-zones (Alta, Alavesa, Oriental) can now be used on the labels, and it is to make broad generalizations on the climates in each, the topography and soils carry
Describe Rioja Alta
largest of Riojas sub-zones
Predominantly S of River Ebro and W of city of Logroño
Continental w/ some maritime influence
Area around the Ebro is relatively low altitude —> warm w/ range of alluvial soils
W corner is cooler & wetter, soils calcareous clay
S part 700m, relatively cool, wet patches of ferrous clay
Describe Rioja Alavesa
Smallest sub-zone of Rioja
W of city of Logroño but N of Ebro
Basque Country
Up to 700M
Calcareous clay
Describe Rioja Oriental
slightly smaller than Rioja Alta
Lies E of Logroño, both to N and S of Ebro River
Originally called Rioja Baja b/c down-river, but could have meaning of “low” so didn’t want neg connotations on qual
N part is relatively low altitude, is warmest and driest area of Rioja
S of the zone, at 500-1000M; at highest avg temps can be just as cool as Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa
Soils mix of calcareous clay and ferrous clay
How has climate change affected the vineyards of Rioja (how does this vary by area)?
High altitude vineyards were less viable previously as grapes would struggle to ripen
Now low altitude vineyards in Rioja Oriental, which is already warm and suffers from drought, are less viable
What challenges do winemakers face in Rioja?
vintage variation — in any year some parts receive more or less influence from the Atlantic (cooler, wetter) and Med (warmer, drier)
Some producers aim for YOY consistency while others look to represent the vintage
