Ch20 Spain Flashcards
How long is the history of wine production in Spain?
- Evidence of vine cultivation goes back over 5000 yr
When did Spain become important to wine trading?
Around 1100 BCE
when sea-faring Phoenicians founded the city of Cádiz on S coast of Spain
They brought wine-making expertise
Name some of the historical key influences on Spain’s wine history up to the 18th century
1100 BC Phoenicians bring winemaking expertise to Cádiz; area wine trade established
Carhaginians brought improved winemaking techniques
Then Romans do the same, bringing stability and huge increase in production volumes, being exported across the empire (Roman Empire ~625BC—476AD)
Moors take over in 711, didn’t drink wine but allowed grape growing, and some winemaking & consumption by others
Overthrow by Christians restored wine production, w/ evidence of exports out of Bilbao to English ports during 13th century
Wars created commercial turbulence, but Spain’s colonies shielded the industry somewhat as an outlet for export
What main influences occurred in Spain’s winemaking in the 18th century?
Unfortified winemaking progressed little from Roman times
Although Rioja was est’d as a leading wine region, it wasn’t high quality and little was exported
Late 18th century, Manuel Quintano & Cuintano traveled to Bordeaux and brought back oak barriques
However, few adopted b/c it was ruled that there could be no price differential so no one wanted to use $$$ barrels even if quality was better
What was noteworthy to Spain’s winemaking in the 19th century?
Spanish civil wars of mid-19th centuryLuciano de Murriet and the Marqués de Riscal sought exile in Bordeaux,
When they returned, they put newly-found expertise to use, including maturation in barriques
Quality eventually convinced local gov’t and other producers that this was the way forward
A few yrs later, phylloxera arrived in FR, devastating vineyards, so Rioja’s wine benefitted given its similarity to wines of BDX
This prompted new wineries to be founded around the railway station in Haro for easy bulk shipment to FR to augment what little FR wine was being produced
However, Phylloxera eventually reached Rioja and rest of Spain in early 20th century. While by that time the cause and remedy were known, there was substantial decrease of production
What happened to Spain’s wine industry in the early 20th century?
Phylloxera, which had hit FR earlier, eventually reached Rioja and rest of Spain in early 20th century.
While by that time the cause and remedy were known, there was substantial decrease of production
At the same time, FR wasn’t demanding as much wine from ESP b/c their industry was recovering
Additionally, ESP had lost its colonies so export markets shrunk
Cost to humans was immense, w/ massive unemployment causing significant poverty and emigration
Wine production gradually recovered
What organizations were established in Spain as a result of the turmoil of the early 20th century?
In 1907 the Rioja Wine Exporters’ Syndicate was founded w/ aim of guaranteeing the authenticity of Rioja wine in export markets
In 1926, Rioja became the first ESP wine region to est a regulatory council (Consejo Regulador)
What hampered Spain’s wine industry through much of the 20th century?
Civil War of 1936-39 left country under dictatorship for nearly 40 yr
Loss of export markets during WWII
Economic isolation of General Franco’s gov’t
Wine production continued, but mainly under co-ops producing high volume, inexpensive wine
What could be considered a turning point for Spain’s wine industry in the 20th century?
Miguel Torres (of eponymous winery) studied winemaking in FR and brought learning to family wine biz in Penedès, Catalunya in early 1960’s
Planted some FR and GER varieties
Trellised vineyards
Use of temp-control and SS tanks
Established a wine lab
When did Spain return to a constitutional monarchy and democratic rule? How did that affect the wine industry?
from mid-1970s
Led to greater Econ freedom
Spain’s accession to the EU in 1986 brought further investment in wine production
Modernization swept the country w/ widespread investment in temp control, SS, improving basic wines dramatically
1996 legalization of irrigation allowed expansion
Describe the climate of Spain
Latitude range?
between 36-43 degrees N, is a warm country overall, but w/ extensive coastline, several mountain ranges, and a large plateau (the meseta), climate can vary dramatically
NW influenced by Altantic —> Maritime w/ high rain throughout year
N & NE — many vineyards sheltered from Atlantic by mountains so more continental w/ some Maritime or Mediterranean influence (depending on location)
S and E face directly onto the Med, so vineyards near sea have moderated climate w/ warm dry SU & mild WI
Central — The meseta plateau (600-900m) covers vast area; climate is continental, w/ hot days, cool nights, where altitude can help moderate heat
Describe Spain’s vineyard plantings in terms of ha under vine? How does this compare to the volume produced?
Spain has more ha under vine than any other country at 969,000
However, it is only 3rd in terms of production of wine by volume, behind IT and FR, w/ 39MM hL/ yr
Given the # of ha under vine in Spain, why does it not produce more volume of wine?
Nature of ESP’s vineyards, made up of low density, bush vines
In La Mancha, can be as low as 1k/ha (vs BDX at 4-5k for basic, 10k for top areas)
This is related to climate — some areas of ESP receive only 300mm rain/yr so low densities allows enough water for each vine
Although irrigation is permitted, it is still regulated by the Consejo Regulado for each region; some regions only permit for vine establishment or extreme drought; some regions only for start of growing season but not ripening
Why is there limited desire to pull up low density, old bush vines in ESP?
They provide good fruit quality
Even if irrigation is permitted and would allow re-planting, low yields are an asset
What are the main weather hazards in ESP?
many areas receive little or no rainfall during the growing season (drought)
When it does rain, storms are often heavy and afterward, temps rise quickly —> mildew risk
Spring frosts in areas w/ continental climates
What pests are a problem in ESP?
Phylloxera affected many regions in early 20th century, so majority of vines are grafted to resistant rootstocks
Some areas w/ sandy soil such as w/ in Toro and Rueda, were unaffected and have old, ungrafted vines
European grapevine moths — generally managed w/ pheromone traps
What is the state of organic farming in ESP?
Many producers employ organic practices, but far fewer are certified
They believe that few consumers — both domestic and export — are willing to pay a premium so the cost of attaining and retaining is thought to be prohibitive
What are the average vineyard holdings in ESP?
Implication (s)
About 66% of plots are <0.5ha
A further 22% are between 0.5 and 3 ha
Despite advances in understanding of vineyard management, mechanization levels are still small
Dominated by co-ops, although negociants are common in some regions
What proportion of Spain’s grapes are white vs red?
- About evenly split, w/ slightly more red/black
What are Spain’s most planted grape varieties?
the #1 is white Airén, makes neutral $ whites for early consumpiton, mainly used for spirits
#2 is Tempranillo — makes a range
This is followed by Grenache, Bobal, Macabeo (Viura), Monastrell (Mourvedre)
Describe the Tempranillo grape in Spain
Range of quality
Ripening
Varietal or blend
widely grown across several areas
Can be made in wide range of quality
Associated highly w/ Rioja, considered to be ESP’s leading grape
Can produce M to H yields, depending on site, however quality minded producers tend to limit yields for more concentration, structure
Early ripening (temprano!) —> finesse wines in warm climate w/ cooling influence
Made varietally or as blend
Where is Garnacha Tinta mainly grown in Spain (autonomous communities)? What style(s) of wine(s)?
Autonomous communities of Rioja, Navarra, Catalunya, Aragon
Red, Rosé
Where in Spain is Macabeo mainly planted? How is it used in these places
Mainly in Catalunya where it is used for both still and sparkling wines, usually for early consumption, and in Cava
It is the main white variety of Rioja, where it is called Viura; it makes a # of inexpensive neutral whites but also leading component in many premium wines fermented & matured in oak
Where in Spain is Monastrell mainly grown?
Predominantly in Valencia and Murcia (Central E/SE)
Well suited to warm Med climate as it is late ripening and needs heat late in growing season
Describe general winemaking practices in Spain
Youthful fruity styles of red, white, rosé
protectively, SS ferment, temp control, inert gasses, cultured yeast, fining &/or filtration
Some inexpensive to mid priced young reds may undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration to enhance fruit
Generally not aging req (assuming it is “generic”)
Premium red & white
Temp controlled SS ferment also common, however some producers choosing concrete tanks or eggs; less commonly using amphorae both for ferment and maturation
Oak maturation is common
White wines that are not matured in oak are often left on lees to enhance texture
National aging legislation specifies the min times wines should spend maturing in barrels to be able to use Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, and Max capacity of 330L, but DO rules may be stricter
What are the min total aging reqs for Reds vs Rosé & White for each of the label terms in Spain?
Generic: no reqs
Each below is min mo total, then barrel, w/ Red 1st
Crianza: 24, 6, 18, 6
Reserva: 36, 12, 24, 6
Gran Reserva: 60, 18, 48, 6
What criticisms have been made of the Spanish aging reqs for wine?
some say it is both too prescriptive yet not prescriptive enough
One one hand, automatically suggests a hierarchy of qual, suggesting Gran Reserva will be highest qual, but it is not appropriate for all styles of wine
On the other hand, no qual reqs specified for wines in each category (beyond std DO regs), the age or origin of the oak is not specified, and only min is given (many age for much longer), so the categories give little indication of style, quality or value for the consumer
Why might a producer choose not to use aging terms (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) on their label?
They may not want to meet the criteria of the labeling terms — such as wanting to age in a larger vessel than the max 330L (national) or potentially lower for specific DO
May not want to follow the min time reqs
May simply believe the terms do not tell the consumer anything meaningful
In what regions of Spain are aging terms commonly seen on bottles? Where is it less common?
More common: Rioja, Ribera del Duero
Not common: Bierzo, Priorat
What does the term “Roble” indicate on a wine label?
it means “oak”
It is used mainly for reds that have been matured in oak for an unspecified duration, usually less than the req’s for Crainza
What does the term “Joven” indicate on a Spanish wine label
may be used to denote a wine that is released young, often w/ no or minimal oak aging
What can be said about the oak that is used in Spain?
Many regions traditionally use American oak, due to strong trading relationships w/ former American colonies + traditionally cheaper than FR
AMO still widely used, but use of FRO has grown, particularly in Penedès, Priorat, Ribera del Duero
What are Spanish rosés called?
What constitutes the majority of production?
How has that been changing?
What has facilitated this?
Rosado
Much is inexpensive and sold in bulk
In recent years, more VG at mid- to premium prices
Better understanding of vineyard management, improvements in winemaking, and focus on market trends has led to move away from high alcohol wines w/ over-ripe, jammy flavors
What is the traditional style of Spanish Rosé?
Deep in color
Made from mixture of black and white grapes (mainly black), macerated (sometimes beyond beginning of ferment), pressed and then fermented together.
Often matured in oak vessels, sometimes for long periods, which leads to a reduction of fruit flavors but greater texture and increased complexity (2ndary, tertiary)
What are the levels in the Spanish classification system?
Vino: wines w/o geographical indication
VT: Vino de la Tierra — commonly used for PGI wines, there are around 40, w/ biggest being Castilla
VP: Vino de Pago: a category that applies to a small # of single estates w/ high reputations (majority in Castilla-LaMancha, w/ others in Navarra, Valencia, Aragon); May only use their own grapes which must be vinified on their estate; part of PDO category
DO and DOCa/DOQ: Denominación de Origen is term for PDO wines. 70 DOs. Vast majority of vineyard plantings. Only 2 DOCa’s: Rioja and Priorat
What qualifications must be met to become a DOCa/DOQ in Spain?
Est’d min 10 years
All wines must also be bottled on producers own property
Denomination must have various quality regs in place, including a tasting assessment by external panel
Who sets the regulations for denominations in Spain? What is typically included?
Consejo Regulador
Max yields,
permitted grape varieties,
vineyard practices such as irrigation
Winemaking regs (incl min aging)
Packaging regs
Some req bottling w/in the region (Rioja, Priorat and a majority of DOs), but not all, such as LaMancha, which allows bulk shipments
Name some of Spain’s largest wine businesses for still, unfortified wines
J. García
Pernod Ricard Groupe
Miguel Torres SA
Bodegas Martín Códax
Many have wineries in several regions throughout ESP
How does Spain’s domestic consumption compare to other EU countries?
Domestic consumption is low (~10MM hL/yr)
Trend is toward drinking higher quality, higher priced wines - such as DO vs Vino
Describe the Export Market for Spain
Nature of wine exports
Main markets
Low domestic consumption
~2/3 is exported
World’s largest exporter by volume
Avg price is lowest of any major exporting country (under 1/2 of IT, 1/5 of FR)
Large % of inexpensive wine; world’s largest exporter of BULK wine — 56% of all exports —> value in supply chain lost to foreign bottler vs remaining w/ producer
Main markets are FR and GER by volume; UK, USA, and China are more important for higher priced wines
What promotional body aims to increase awareness and diversity of Spain’s food & wine products?
Foods and Wines From Spain
Individual DOs and VTs have their own Consejos Regulators that also play a role
Where is Galicia? Generally describe the weather
NW Spain
Proximity to Atlantic = cool and wet weather
Describe the wine biz in Rias Baixas DO
Size relative to rest in Galicia
Vineyard holdings
Largest producer
Largest DO in Galicia (~250k hL/yr)
Many small landholdings (4000 ha, 5500 growers)
~170 wineries ranging from small to very large producers
Co-ops dominant w/ Martin Códax largest (>300 growers)
What grapes were mainly planted after Phylloxera in Rias Baixas DO? Has that changed?
Mainly planted Palomino after Phylloxera
1970s-80s incentives to grow indigenous varieties (such as Albariño) and modernization of wineries
Describe the climate of Rias Baixas DO
Borders Atlantic = distinctly Maritime
Moderates temps = warm SU, mild WI
HIGH rainfall = 1700mm/yr, falling throughout the year = Fingal disease and rain prior to harvest are problems
What are the soils of Rias Baixas?
sand and granite
Important for good drainage where there is 1700mm rain/yr
What grape(s) important in Rias Baixas?
Why?
Albariño = over 95% of production
Well suited to damp climate b/c thick skins = less vulnerable to rot damage
Describe the Albariño grape in Rias Baixas
Skins
Ripening
thick skins = less vulnerable to rot
Early to mid-ripening = can ripen most years
Describe Albarino wines in Rias Baixas
high acid
M(-) or M body
M alc
Lemon, grapefruit, peach, sometimes floral, melon
Usually made as single varietal; when blended, includes Loureira, Treixadura, Caiño Blanco
G to VG w/ some O
$$ to $$$
Describe the Loureira grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening
Acid
Aromas
early ripening
M+ acid
Citrus, pear, floral, herbal
Describe the Treixadua grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening, acidity, aromas
Mid-ripening
Low acidity
Apple & peach
Decribe the Caiño Blanco grape in Rias Baixas
Ripening, acidity, aromas
- late ripening, high acidity, citrus flavors
Are black grapes grown in Rias Baixas?
Very small volumes = only 1% production
Sousón - same grape as Vinhão in Vinho Verde in POR)
Caiño Tinto
What can be said about the sub-zones of Rias Baixas? Describe them
there are 5 NON-contiguous sub-zones (unusual for a DO)
Val du Salnés: oldest, on coast = coolest & wettest, high acid
O Rosal: on River Miño on POR border, blends of Albariño, Loureira, Treixadura, Caiño Blanco; warmer; lower acid
Condado do Tea: inland so warmer; riper style w/ more peach fruit and slightly lower acid
Ribeira do Ulla: newest; inexpensive easy to drink
Soutomaior: smallest
What is/are the trellising system(s) in Rias Baixas?
Pergola (called “parral”) remains popular, often using granite stone supports in the humid atmosphere
Originally used so other crops could grow below
Add’l benefit of better air circa in area w/ very high rainfall
Many larger growers now use VSP to allow for mechanization
Describe the winemaking in Rias Baixas
Albariño is 95% of production
Generally protective to retain fresh fruit
White grapes may be macerated a few hours to enhance fl int and provide more texture
Cool ferment temps in SS
Some may encourage partial MLF in cool yrs to soften malic acid but not to intro butter notes
Inexpensive: released early from winery
More expensive: often stored on lees (sobre lias) 1-2 yrs or more, usually not stirred (or occasionally) which could intro O2;
a few ferment most expensive wines in oak; varies from very large old oak giving purely texture, to portion new, giving toasty vanilla notes
What is the Spanish term for Sur lie?
- Sobre lias
What % of Rias Baixas wine is exported? Top countries?
just over 25%, an increase over past several decades (in 2000, only 10%)
USA biggest, followed by UK
Beyond Rias Baixas, how does the climate change in Galicia? What grapes are grown?
Climate becomes less temperate b/c further from Atlantic
Still Maritime w/ less rainfall
All grow range of local varieties, including those of Rias Baixas (Albariño, Loureiro, Treixadura) but Godello and Mencía are 2 most-recognized
Describe Ribeiro DO
Where
Climate
grape(s)
Maturation
in Galicia, just to E of Rías Baixas
Slightly more sheltered, but still Maritime w/ temperate conditions and high rain
Produces mainly whites
Treixadura is most planted, used as varietal or lead of blend
Not usual to ferment or mature (even $$$) wine in oak
Describe Ribeira Sacra DO
Where
Climate
Terroir
In Galicia, further inland
Follows the Vally of the River Miño and River Sil E from their confluence
Mainly continental, but can have Maritime influence
Many vineyards on very precipitous and deep valley sites at various altitudes & aspects
Stony slopes provide good drainage and conduct heat = very labor intensive
Describe wines from Ribeira Sacra DO
Most important grape = Mencía
Tend to show red cherry and raspberry fruit
M body & tannins
M+ acid
Majority $$, made in fresh, early drinking style
Describe Valdeorras DO
Location
Climate
Terroir
Located further up the River Sil from Ribeira Sacra DO in Galicia NW Spain
Continental climate, w/ plentiful rain (700-1000mm/yr)
Vineyards ~300M
Diverse soils, despite area known for slate mining
Describe wines of Valdeorras DO
Reputation for good quality Godello
Citrus, stone fruit, sometimes herbal or wet stone
M+ acid
Premium versions often fermented and matured in oak for extra texture and toasty, spicy complexity
Note: Mencia (black grape) also planted here, but little of it
Describe the Monterrei DO
Location
Climate
Production focus
In NW Spain, Galicia, S of Ribeira Sacra on border w/ POR
Inland —> sheltered from ocean influence by Sierra de Larouca mountains
Continental climate w/ hot summers, relatively low rainfall
Much of production is $ bulk wine, but starting to make some good quality Mencía and fruity Godello
Describe Castilla y León
Autonomous community covers vast area in N of ESP
Made up of high-altitude plateau (northern part of the meseta)
Mountains to the N and S
Many of its regions have continental climates, tho some Maritime influence in W
Describe Bierzo DO
Location
Climate
NW of Castilla y León
Climate sim to some of Galician regions but still further inland so warmer summers, cooler winters, lower rain
Mountains or hills on 3 sides but opens to W allowing Maritime influence
Marked vintage variation b/c sometimes cool & wet, sometimes warm & dry
What was Bierzo DO’s reputation? When/how did that change?
Until recently, made rustic wines for locals
Arrival of Alvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Pérez in late 1990s demonstrated that it could make high qual
Attracted by slate slopes, similar to what they were used to in Priorat
What is/are the key grape(s) of Bierzo DO?
similar to Galician regions
Mencía is key black grape at 75% of plantings
Some Godello w/ other white Galician varieties grown
Describe the Mencía grape in Bierzo
Ripening and implications
early to mid ripening
Can lose characteristic M+ to high acidity quickly and accumulate sugar resulting in high alc if picked too late
Describe Bierzo DO red wine
Mencia must be min 70%, w/ Alicante Bouschet making up diff but only 2% of plantings, so many are 100% Mencia
M+ to H acid (but can lose it quickly)
Range from light bodied and fruity w/ M tannins to more concentrated examples w/ fuller body, higher tannins, depending on growing conditions & winemaking
Describe the vineyard locations of Bierzo DO
Inexpensive vs higher quality
Flat plain in the middle of the DO + lower slopes have fertile silty loam soils —> inexpensive to mid-priced wines w/ high yields
Best vineyards on hillsides at 500-850m w/ good drainage, shallow, poor slate soils —> limits vigor; altitude = diurnal swing slows sugar accumulation, retains acidity, allows tannins to develop
Describe a Bierzo DO wine made for early consumption
Where does it come from
Body, tannins, aromas, winemaking
Quality & Price
Flat plain in the middle of the DO + lower slopes
M(-) body and tannins
Red fruits, raspberry, cherry
Sometimes carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
Not usually having oak
G and $$
Describe a Bierzo DO wine made for higher quality
Where does it come from
Body, tannins, aromas, winemaking
Quality & Price
Best vineyards on hillsides at 500-850m w/ good drainage, shallow, poor slate soils
Significant % old vines (80% >60yr)
More concentration
M to M+ body & tannins
Higher alcohol
Ripe cherry and plum w/ floral or herbal
Often matured in oak, contributing spicy character but not masking delicate aromas
VG to O, $$ to $$$ w/ some $$$$
Name a significant producer from Bierzo DO
Descendientes de J. Palacios
Raul Perez
What is challenge(s) about the wine biz in Bierzo DO?
Significant diffs in volume YOY
Many small growers so mechanization is rare
Almost 1/2 of growers are associated w/ a co-op
Describe the growing environment in Toro DO
Geography & climate
in W of Castilla y Leòn on the River Duero
Inland, continental climate w/ hot SU and cold WI
Altitude 620-750m = large diurnal range w/ cool nites that help maintain acid
Spring frost can be a problem
Low rainfall
What grape(s) in Toro DO
Unique characteristics?
main grape is Tinta do Toro, considered by some to be a form of Tempranillo adapted to local climate, by others as a separate autochrhonous variety of Toro
B/c of intensity of sun, thought to have thicker skins than Tempranillo —> more color, higher tannin levels
What reqs for a Toro DO red?
- min 75% Tinta de Toro, w/ remainder Garnacha
What would a Toro DO rosé be made from? White?
Rosé: either Tinta de Toro or Garnacha
White: Malvasía or Verdejo
What are typical vine densities in Toro DO
Why
As low as 2700 vines/ha
Rainfall is low and irrigation is not permitted from June until after harvest
What can be said about the vines in Toro DO?
many old bush vines in Sandy Soils that didn’t foster phylloxera so vines were ungrafted
Around 1/5 of vines are >50yr and there are many >100
Describe a red from Toro DO
deep color
Full body
Often high alcohol (although Consejo allows max 15%)
High tannins (thick skins)
Ripe flavors of blackberry and blueberry
M+ to high acidity (cool nights)
Describe winemaking in Toro DO (red)
Inexpensive to mid-priced may have carbonic maceration to boost fruity flavors and extract less tannin = early drinking style
Premium + wines matured in oak (both AMO and FRO or mix used)
Describe the wine biz in Toro DO
long history but somewhat hampered by location far from cities or ports
Value increased as nearby Ribera del Duero gained popularity
What was the 1st winery of Ribera del Duero DO? When established?
How did the region evolve?
Vega Sicilia in late 19th century
Still considered some of highest qual of the region
Until the 1990s, there were very few other wineries in the region, but then it exploded
~9 wineries at DO formation in 1982 but >280 today
Alejandro Fernandez’s Pesquera sparked the change by winning int’l acclaim
What is the growing environment of Ribera del Duero DO?
lies in upper valley of River Duero
Similar climate to Toro and Rueda to W, though SU are hotter, WI colder, vineyards even higher altitude (750-1000m)
Frosts are a problem both in SP and AU, limiting hang time (sometimes causing serious loss)
Low rainfall 400-600mm but irrigation can be used other than during ripening period
Range of altitudes & aspects
How is frost handled in Ribera del Duero?
vine spraying w/ water (aspersion)
Heaters
Occasionally helicopters
What grape(s) in Ribera del Duero DO
Many producers grow only, or predominantly Tempranillo — here called Tinto Fino or Tinta del País
CS, Merlot, Garnacha, Malbec
White: Albillo Mayor (sm amnt can be used in red)
Use of different sites w/ different aspects and climates are useful for gaining balance, complexity and ensuring consistent yields
Describe the plantings / training of vines in Ribera del Duero
around 1/2 are bush
Around 1/4 are >50yr w/ a # > 100
Newer vineyards are often on trellises that are quicker to establish
What rules about Ribera del Duero DO? (Wine style(s), grape (s))
Originally only allowed red and rosé but now allows white
Whites: 75% must be local Albillo Mayor
Vast majority is red: min 75% Tempranillo w/ CS, Merlot, Malbec, Garnacha, Albillo (white, thought to add freshness but rarely used); many are 100% Tempranillo
Describe Ribera del Duero DO red wine
min 75% Tempranillo, likely 100%
Full bodied
Often H alc
Ripe flavors of blackberry & plum w/ vanilla & choc from new oak (FRO popular, some use blend of AMO & FRO, premium wines may get 50-100% new)
G to O, $$ to $$$$
What can be said about red winemaking in Ribera del Duero
FRO popular, some use blend of AMO & FRO, premium wines may get 50-100% new
General trend for less extraction w/ less time on skins post-fermentation and/or less new oak
Aging categories of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are commonly used, w/ Crianza the most produced, GR quite rare; majority is labeled w/o aging cat specified
Describe the wine biz in Ribera del Deuro
Vineyard holdings
Export % and markets
vast majority of growers have <1ha
Almost 20% exported
Main markets by volume = CH, MEX, USA, GER, China
Describe Rueda DO
Location
Wine style(s) and who responsible
in contrast to Toro to W and Ribera del Duero to E, Produces almost entirely whites
Until ~50 yr ago, produced oxidative fortified (some still do)
Early 70s, Marques de Riscal in Rioja considered that local Verdejo could make fruit fruity white wines consumers were demanding if it was made protectively in temp controlled SS
Describe the growing environment in Rueda DO
Similar climate to Toro and Ribera del Duero — hot, dry SU, cold WI, low rain
700-800M —> cool nights retains acidity
Limestone bedrock w/ sandy clay sub-layer then topsoil of stones = free draining, low organic matter = reduced vigor
Key grape(s) in Rueda DO
Verdejo
SB, can be blended or single varietal
Describe the Verdejo grape in Rueda — what aspect makes it suitable for the region?
relatively drought tolerant —> can deal w/ lack of rainfall
Describe Verdejo wines of Rueda
M to M+ acid
M alc
Apple, pear, peach, often w/ herbal (fennel)
Slight bitterness on finish
Can have some SB
How are vines trained in Rueda?
tend to be VSP trellised so that grapes can be harvested at night at coolest temps
There are some very old bush vines, some on sandy soils w/ pre-phylloxera roots (~10%)
Describe winemaking in Rueda DO
Inexpensive
protective w/ cool ferment in SS, bottled soon after
Cultured yeasts for reliability and promoting fruity flavors
A to G
Mid priced
Generally lees age (few mo to 1 yr) often w/ regular stirring brining body & texture
Often G
Most $$$ examples
usually still mid priced
Fermented &/or matured min oak for body, texture, aromatic complexity of toasty smoky notes
MLF avoided to retain acid
G or VG
What is required for Verdejo or SB to be varietally labeled in Rueda?
as with in all of the EU, must be in 85% named variety
It is common that they are 100%
Blends that do not meed reqs can use DO Rueda w/o varietal
What would you expect a wine labeled as DO Rueda w/o a varietal also on the label to be?
could be a blend of Verdejo and SB
However, in reality, many producers use this to denote their least expensive wine, even if it could legally be labelled as DO Rueda-Verdejo
Describe the wine biz in Rueda DO
exponential growth in last 20 yr
2000-19 production almost quadrupled
Fruity style and $ ppt extremely popular in local & int’l mkt
Competition is driving to better quality
Sales increase 7x in last 20yr
Netherlands, GER, USA and CH top export mkts
Describe Castilla y León VT
Geographic features and climate
Generally, type(s) of grape(s) grown
covers the autonomous region of the same name
Land is on N part of the meseta and is protected from Atlantic influence by mountains
Continental climate w/ SU temps moderated by altitude
Large # of grapes grown from both domestic & int’l
What is the Castilla y León VT designation used for?
producers not located w/in boundaries of DOs w/in the broader region to still have a geographic indication (PGI vs PDO)
Producers who want to use varieties outside of DO rules
Describe the Location of Rioja DOCa, chief geographic markers, size
N part of Spain, NE of main DOs in Castilla y Leon and bordered to the E by the DO of Navarra
100km/60mi long
Runs NW to SE direction along the path of the River Ebro
Reaches ~40km/25m wide in places
Sierra de Cantabria mountains to the N
Sierra de la Demanda to the S
Most vineyards are in autonomous region of La Rioja, but some fall in province of Alava in Basque Country, and a smaller # in province of Navarra
3 sub-zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Oriental
Describe the climate and mitigating factors in Rioja DOCa
Sierra de Cantabria mountains to N protect from worst Atlantic weather
Sierra de la Demanda shelters from weather from warm center of country
Some Mediterranean influence from the Ebro River that eventually empties there
Ebro has several tributaries. These valleys provide different aspects and soils
Why have some suggested a re-mapping of Rioja’s zones
While the 3 sub-zones (Alta, Alavesa, Oriental) can now be used on the labels, and it is to make broad generalizations on the climates in each, the topography and soils carry
Describe Rioja Alta
largest of Riojas sub-zones
Predominantly S of River Ebro and W of city of Logroño
Continental w/ some maritime influence
Area around the Ebro is relatively low altitude —> warm w/ range of alluvial soils
W corner is cooler & wetter, soils calcareous clay
S part 700m, relatively cool, wet patches of ferrous clay
Describe Rioja Alavesa
Smallest sub-zone of Rioja
W of city of Logroño but N of Ebro
Basque Country
Up to 700M
Calcareous clay
Describe Rioja Oriental
slightly smaller than Rioja Alta
Lies E of Logroño, both to N and S of Ebro River
Originally called Rioja Baja b/c down-river, but could have meaning of “low” so didn’t want neg connotations on qual
N part is relatively low altitude, is warmest and driest area of Rioja
S of the zone, at 500-1000M; at highest avg temps can be just as cool as Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa
Soils mix of calcareous clay and ferrous clay
How has climate change affected the vineyards of Rioja (how does this vary by area)?
High altitude vineyards were less viable previously as grapes would struggle to ripen
Now low altitude vineyards in Rioja Oriental, which is already warm and suffers from drought, are less viable
What challenges do winemakers face in Rioja?
vintage variation — in any year some parts receive more or less influence from the Atlantic (cooler, wetter) and Med (warmer, drier)
Some producers aim for YOY consistency while others look to represent the vintage
How has vineyard area changed since 1990?
- Increased 50%, and still growing gradually
How are vines trained in Rioja
When Spain joined the EU, funds were available to restructure vineyards
Now a significant portion are trellised w/ VSP making mechanization more viable
However, there are still considerable plantings of old bush vines, some >100yr old
What % of Rioja is Black grape(s)?
almost 90%
Dominated by Tempranillo at 88%
What grape(s) used to be more prevalent in Rioja? Why did that change?
Garnacha used to have similar planting sizes as Tempranillo
Tempranillo’s ability to RELIABLY produce larger yields (even if quantity rather than quality) meant many Garnacha vines, esp in Rioja Oriental, were replanted to Tempranillo
Legislation allowing for irrigation compounded this as Garnacha’s ability to withstand drought became less important
Quality minded producers in Rioja Oriental are now replanting some Garnacha
What is the typical profile of a Rioja wine based on Tempranillo?
(Aroma, Tannins, acidity)
raspberry and black plum fruit
M to M+ tannins and acidity
What does Garnacha add to Rioja blends?
- ripe strawberry, lower tannins, fuller body
What does Graciano contribute to Rioja blends?
high acidity and tannin
Fresh black fruit flavors
Describe the Graciano Grape in Rioja
late ripening
Drought resistant
Only produces small yields
Susceptible to fungal diseases
Just over 2% of plantings
What is Mazuelo and what does it contribute to Rioja blends?
Cariñena or Carignan
High acid
What does Maturana Tinta contribute to Rioja blends?
deep purple color
High acid
Fresh cranberry and blackberry flavors
What white varieties are permitted in Rioja
a range of local & int’l. The most important include
Viura / aka Macabeo, Macabeu — most planted (70% of white, 6.5% total)
Tempranillo Blanco - mutation of the red (13% of white)
Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca - used as blending components, generally in oak-matured mid to premium wines
Verdejo - single varietal or blend w/ Viura
SB - single varietal or blend w/ Viura
Describe the Viura grape in Rioja
Budding & ripening
Susceptible
late budding
Late ripening
Susceptible to botrytis —> suited to warm dry sites
Relatively neutral
Describe the range of wines made w/ Viura in Rioja and how they differ
neutral grape and can make broad range of styles
At high yields and fermented SS, can produce simple wines for early drinking
When grown at lower yields and matured in oak, can produce concentred, complex wines w/ age potential
Describe red winemaking in Rioja
How is style influenced?
Size of vessels
New vs traditional style
variety of styles possible via blending of diff grapes, diff vineyard areas, diff winemaking techniques, in particular, extraction method
Aging regs have significant influence - stricter than the Spain baseline
Max 225L barriques (vs spain general at 330L)
1990s emergence of “vinos de autor” — no age category, low yield, very ripe fruit, concentrated, structured, aged in NFRO
Traditional w/ less concentration & extraction, long aging (often longer than min req) w/ tertiary character (dried fruit, mushroom, cured meats, vanilla, coconut)
Current is in the middle: earlier harvest, gentle extraction, use of older and/or larger vessels or other vessels, FRO more common than AMO
What happened to the winemaking style of Rioja in the 1990s? What is this often called
handful of producers launched premium wines, labeling them w/o aging category
Often called “vinos de autor”
Low yield, very ripe fruit, concentrated, structured, aged in NFRO
Why is blending grapes from various parts of the DOCa been common in Rioja?
many small growers, relatively few wineries, and a large # of co-ops
Remains a necessity for many large producers
Often desirable to create a certain quality and style
Garnacha is best suited to growing in Rioja Oriental where it is hotter and drier
Tempranillo is often higher qual from Alta and Alevesa
Note: many producers make at least 1 single vineyard wine and new regs allow for name of a vineyard, village or zone to appear on the label
Describe winemaking for White wines in Rioja
Inexpensive vs more premium
Inexpensive
simple, un-oaked for early drinking
Handled protectively, fermented to dryness at cool temps in SS
Bottled soon after ferment
High yields of Viura
Higher qual
tend to be oaked
Until recently, were also oxidative style w/o much fruit or fresh acidity
Last 5-10 yr a dramatic change
Still oak maturation, but more balanced and fresher
Viura main grape, often grown at lower yields for more concentration & body
Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca often added for greater range of flavor
Describe an inexpensive white Rioja
wines made from Viura can be relatively neutral
M acidity
If blended w/ Verdejo, Tempranillo Blanco, SB, can have more flavor intensity and acidity
A to G
Describe a more premium white Rioja
tend to be oak matured
M+ body and acid
Subtle citrus fruit and some smoky, nutty complexity from oak
G to VG w/ some O
What wineries still release the classic oxidative style of White Rioja?
Castillo Ygay from Marques de Murrieta
Viña Tondonia Grand Reserva from López de Heredia
What prompted the Consejo Regulador of Rioja to review and change regulations in the 2010s?
Rioja historically had not sub-geographical delimitation — eg despite consumers knowing the 3 sub-zones, these could not be used on the label, nor could vineyards or villages be named
Renowned producer Artadi left the DOCa at end of 2015 and then the Basque Asociación de Bodegas de Rica Alavesa (ABRA) proposed creation of a separate classification: Viñdos de Alava
Consejo Regulador responded by updating regs to allow new labeling terms: Vino de Zona, Vino de Municipio, Viñedo Singular (single vineyard)
What is a Vino de Zona Rioja wine
all grapes must be sourced from the single zone named (Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, or Rioja Oriental)
One exception is that 15% of the grapes may come from outside the zone, providing that the vineyard borders the zone mentioned and the producer can provide evidence that they have been sourcing the grapes for 10 consecutive years
Vinificaiton, aging and bottling the wine must take place w/in the zone
Wine labels may indicate the zone of production
What is a Vino de Municipio Rioja wine
all grapes sourced from municipality (eg village or group of villages) names
Similar 15 % rule as w/ Vino de Zona
Vinification, aging, bottling wine must take place w/in named municipality, meaning producer must have a winery in that municipality to be labeled this way
Differs from Burgundy where wines from many diff communes can be vinified in the same winery
Labels may indicate municipality of production, w/ option of zone of production
What is a Viñedo Singular Rioja wine?
single vineyard
All grapes sourced from particular vineyards or estate
Vinification, aging, storage and bottling must take place at same winery
Producer must have owned the vineyard for min 10 yr
Vineyard must be min 35 ur old
Yields must repeat max specified levels
Vineyards must be hand harvested and treated as sustainable
Some restrictions on pruning during growing season
Checks on traceability carried out and wine must be authorized by a tasting panel
Wine labels may indicate municipality and zone, as well as vineyard/ estate and Viñedo Singular
What are the Rioja aging requirements for the age indications for labeling?
all are in format of Red Min total mo, red min barrel, red min bottle followed by white min total, min barrel (no min bottle); diff from Spain general noted in ( )
Generic: no req
Crianza: 24 from Oct 1, 12 (v 6), none; 24 from Oct 1 (v18), 6
Reserva: 36, 12, 6; 24, 6
Gran Reserva: 60, 24 (v18), 24; 48, 6
Note: key diffs from Spain general
Reds all have addition of min bottle time
Addition of “from Oct 1”
What is the nature of the Rioja wine biz?
mainly small vineyard plots
Over 50% of surface area made up of vineyards of < 1ha
Over 75% made up of <2ha
Almost 15k growers
Over 40% of growers sell to co-ops
Much of co-op wine is then sold to merchants, although some co-ops sell at least a portion under their own brand
There are all size producers
Top 10 producers account for 40% of sales
80% of producers sell small volumes, 12% of sales
Many producers also merchants
What % of Rioja wine is exported?
Main markets?
about 37% exported
UK, GER, USA
What age level is most popular in Spain? Is this the same for export markets?
Crianza is most popular red in Spain
Reserva and Gran Reserva are more popular in export markets
Large qty of “generic” sold in both
How does the average price of Rioja wine compare to wines from other DOs of Spain? To that of prestigious areas of Europe?
higher prices than avg price of Spanish DO wines generally
Much below prestige areas of FR and IT
Many sell at premium price, but few are super-premium
Consejo Regulador promote the region w/ key message highlighting the value for the money as well as its diversity
What groups in Rioja have emerged to promote the region?
Bodegas Familiars de Rioja: ~40 sm to med producers promoting wines under this name and campaigning on issues that affect small producers such as rules around min stock holding reqs for wineries registered to age wine for release w/ age indication
Rioja ’n’ Roll: small, 1st gen producers focused on quality from particular vineyard sites
Another group based in Alava focused on breaking away from La Rioja as Basque Country
Describe the environment of Navarra
Location
Ha planted
Climatic influence
Directly NE of La Rioja
11000 ha (much lower than Rioja’s 64k)
Many climatic influences including both the Atlantic and Mediterranean Sea, and Pyrenees to the NE
How many sub-zones does Navarra have?
Name and describe them
5 sub-zones
Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe, Tierra Estella run E to W and are cooler and wetter w/ Atlantic influences and Pyrenees in NE
Ribera Alta in the middle of the region and Ribera Baja in the S are progressively warmer, drier, flatter
What grapes are grown in Navarra?
a wide range compared to other ESP regions
Garnacha historically the most planted, generally to make deep-colored rosé
In 1970s, gov’t research promoted red wines from Tempranillo, now the most planted
Since 1980s, the Consejo Regulador permitted int’l varieties such as CS, Merlot and Chard
What styles of red wine are most common in Navarra?
How is oak used?
Tempranillo is often single varietal
Tempranillo also blended w/ CS and Merlot, and sometimes w/ Garnacha
Range of styles from fruity, lighter-body, early drinking, to fuller-bodied, more concentrated wines that will typically be matured in oak for >1yr
Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva widely used
Both FRO and AMO, w/ FRO more common w/ CS & Merlot, AMO for Tempranillo
What style(s) of white wine are common in Navarra?
Chardonnay is the principal white grape
Moscatel de Grano Menudo (MBaPG), SB, Viura and Malvasia are also grown
Discuss the +/- of Navarra’s diversity of grapes
Some critics and producers feel that Garnacha is the grape w/ the highest quality potential, especially old bush vines
Some feel the it would be better to focus on a signature grape rather than diversity
Describe single varietal red Garnacha wines from Navarra
can make lighter bodied wines w/ red berry fruit and M+ acid in cooler Baja Montaña, Valdizarbe, and Tierra Estella
Fuller-bodied, more tannic examples in warmer Ribera Baja
Describe the rosé wines made in Navarra
Color intensity
Sweetness
Grape (s)
How made/ winemaking
M to Deep
Dry
Mainly Garnacha, sometimes blended w/ Tempranillo, CS and Merlot w/ grapes sourced from cooler, more Northerly sub-regions
DO wines must be made by short maceration on skins (direct press not permitted) w/ maceration of 3-4 hr for paler, 6-12 hr for more deep color
Most SS ferment and bottled soon after to retain red berry fruit flavors
Some ferment &/or mature in barrels
What is the general quality and price level of wines from Navarra?
range from G to VG w/ some O
Less prestige than Rioja DOCa and Ribera del Duero DO so prices tend to be $ to $$
Describe the wine biz in Navarra
region of small vineyard holding (not as small as Rias Biaxas)
Many growers sell wines to co-ops
What are the principal wine regions of Aragon?
Cariñena in W
Campo de Borja in W
Calatayud in W
Somontano in NE —> very different climate
Describe the climate of the western DOs of Aragon (and name them)
Rainfall
Vine training and density
Susceptibility
Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Calatayud
Far inland —> warm continental w/ hot dry summers
Rainfall 450-500mm
Low precipitation (450-500mm) + rocky, free staining soils = mainly bush vines @ low density
Dry windy conditions = low pest & disease pressure
Spring frosts can be an issue —> reduces yields
What factor mitigates the western DOs of Aragon?
Generally located on high altitude plateaus and slopes that moderate the daytime temps somewhat
Calatayud 500-900m
Cariñena 400-800
Campo de Borja 350-700
This gives high diurnal range and helps to retain acidity
Cold wind called the “cierzo” blows from N, slows ripening
What style(s) of wine produced in the western DOs of Aragon
Cariñena, Calatayud and Campo de Borja mainly produce red wines
Substantial plantings of Garnacha (principal variety)
What is the general structure of the wine biz in W Aragon
Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Calatayud = mostly small vineyard holdings, small # of wineries
Co-ops are major producers
Majority of production is high volume, inexpensive reds for early drinking
Describe the wine style(s) of W Aragon (Calatayud, Cariñena, Campo de Borja), including basics of how made
mainly high volume, inexpensive reds for early drinking
Fermented at moderate temps in SS and bottled soon after
Generally M to full body, H alcohol, M tannins
Ripe red & black fruits
Small handful of quality-minded making old-vine Garnacha
Describe a high quality wine from W Aragon
old vine Garnacha
Aim to showcase the quality of the fruit —> time on oak will be relatively limited (larger barrels / vessel — >500L — or high proportion old oak
Show concentrated raspberry and plum fruit, w/ subtle spicy notes from oak
M+ acid
M to M+ tannins
High alcohol
VG, $$ to $$$
Describe the NE DO of Aragon
Name the DO
Location
Climate & rainfall
Mitigating factors
Somontano DO
Located at foot of Pyrenees
Warm continental climate, but higher rainfall than in W of Aragon (where it is 450-500)
Elevation 350-650 w/ highest lowering daytime temps and giving large diurnal range
Cool breezes from Pyrenees
What grapes are grown in Somontano
wide range of varieties
CS and Chard most planted
Unique for ESP = Gewürztraminer
What has spurred development in Somontano?
external investment
Until ~40 years ago, only a handful of producers; now >30
First investment came from local bank —> modern, high-tech winery known as Viñas del Vero
It is largest producer in region
Since 2008 owned by González Byass of Jerez
Barbadillo, also a Sherry producer, now own a major share of the co-op
Describe the style of Somontano wines
tend to be mid-priced, G to VG examples of the grape varieties from which they are made
Competition from a large # of other, better known regions also produce wines from the same grapes
Describe the location of Catalunya
NE Spain
E border is Med coast and this proximity to the sea, along w/ altitude inland are major influences on region’s climate
What grapes are grown in Catalunya?
a higher proportion of int’l grape varieties, generally coming from nearby FR, than in other areas of ESP
How many DOs are there in Catalunya?
Name 2 main
There are 11 DOs and 1 DOQ (DOCa) including:
Catalunya DO
Penedès DO
What labeling term can be used for single estate, exceptional wines from Catalunya?
Basic req’s?
Vi de Finca
Must meet strict specification, including restrictions on yields and min length the wine to be est’d in market
Describe the Catalunya DO
grapes can be grown anywhere in the autonomous region of Catalunya
Widely used, esp by largest producers of inexpensive to mid priced wines
Allows more freedom than smaller DOs in terms of where grapes can be sourced, phage of varieties permitted
Describe Penedès DO
covers diverse area from Mediterranean coast below Barcelona to mountains inland
Makes a variety of wine styles, including Cava
Describe the growing environment in Penedès
How does this vary by the 3 sub-regions
Climate & rainfall
Soils
warm Mediterranean
Approx 500mm rain, driest period in summer
Irrigation only allowed w authorization for Consejo Regulador
Loamy soils, w calcareous components and can generally store enough water
Can be broadly divided into 3 zones w/ different topography and different climatic influences
Penedes Marítim — btw sea and coastal range; low altitude, warm climate w/o temp extremes;
Penedes Central — relatively flat low plains btw coastal range and inland mountains. Moderately high altitudes compared to Maritim — up to 500m— w/ some cooling;
Penedes Superior — 500-800M in inland mountains, providing cooling influence during day, high diurnal range.
What grapes are grown in Penedes?
white grapes 80%
Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parrillada are most planted of either color, used both for Cava, other sparkling wine, and still wine, often blended together
Sizable plantings of Chard
Smaller amounts of Moscatel (both M of Alexandria and MBaPG), SB, Gewurz, Riesling
Merlot most planted black grape —> CS, Tempranillo, PN, Syrah, et al
Describe the climate and main grapes of Penedes Maritim and main grape(s)
Btw sea and coastal range;
low altitude, warm climate w/o temp extremes;
source of full-bodied reds from late ripening Monastrell et al;
cava varieties often grown for still wine production
Describe the climate and main grapes of Penedes Central
Relatively flat low plains btw coastal range and inland mountains.
Moderately high altitudes compared to Maritim — up to 500m— w/ some cooling;
large plantings of Cava varieties plus Merlot, CS, Tempranillo, Chard
Describe the climate and main grapes of Penedes Superior
Elevations 500-800M in inland mountains, providing cooling influence during day, high diurnal range.
White grapes such as Chard, SB as well as small amounts of Riesling and Gewurz.
PN also grown
What is noteworthy about winemaking in Penedes?
Who is credited?
one of 1st places in ESP to modernize in 1960s & 70s
Led by Dijon-educated Miguel Torres
Intro of temp-controlled ferment in SS
Region became known as source of clean, fruity wines for both aromatic whites and fruity, early drinking reds
What style(s) of wine is Penedes known for?
Region became known as source of clean, fruity wines for both aromatic whites and fruity, early drinking reds due to being one of 1st areas of ESP to modernize
More expensive red wines and some Chard often matured in oak, usually FR
What is the general quality & price of wines from Penedes DO?
G to VG
$ to $$ w/ some $$$
How has Penedes DO created more specificity in the DO?
intro’d more precise zoning of vineyard area
10 sub-zones mapped based on geo and cultural parameters
Producers can label w/ a sub-zone if specifications are met, e.g. 100% grapes used from w/in the sub-zone, grown organically, etc
What is the export market for Penedes DO?
Nearly 30% exported
Largest markets = GER, CAN, CH, CHN, USA
What is Priorat’s history relative to winemaking
long history, going back to Carthusian monks in 12th century
However, it is only in last few decades that they have excelled internationally
What hindered Priorat’s development as a wine region?
lack of easy access
Challenging topography
Extreme weather
Outbreak of phylloxera @ end of 19th century
Growth of textile industry in Catalunya caused many vineyards to be abandoned as workers moved to find jobs nearer to cities
What changed Priorat’s fortunes as a wine region for the better? When?
1989, local producer René Barbier formed sm group of viticulturists and winemakers to re-invigorate several specific vineyards
Blending of CS, Syrah and Merlot w/ local varieties Garnacha and Cariñena
Using FR inspired winemaking techniques such as FRO barrel maturation
By mid-‘90s, their wines received critical acclaim (Clos Mogador, Clos Dofí, Clos de L’Obac, Clos Martinet and Clos Erasmus)
When was Priorat promoted to DOQ? Why?
in 2009
By mid-90s, had received much critical acclaim and wines being sold at premium & super premium prices
Describe Priorat’s climate
warm continental
Protected from cold winds by the Serra de Montsant in N
Protected from much Mediterranean influence by the Serra de Llaberia to the S
Hot summers, but high diurnal range giving cool nights
WI very cold such that spring frosts can be a problem
Rainfall 500-600mm, mainly in heavy storms in WI and SP, w/ dry SU
Is irrigation permitted in Priorat?
- Only for driest years and for vineyard establishment
Describe the topography of Priorat
the River Siurana runs through the region —> winding valleys carved by the river and its tributaries give broad range of altitudes (100-750M) and aspects
Topography extremely rugged
Many vineyards on slopes known as “Costers” ranging from 5 to 60 % gradient
Narrow terraces a common feature to help reduce soil erosion and allow rainwater to better infiltrate soil —> requires hand vs mechanization
Describe the soils of Priorat
varied, largely poor and stony but w/ some outcrops of clay
More common is slate-based soil known as “llicorella” — thin, rocky and lacking in nutrients w characteristic particles of mica reflecting both light & heat back to veins
Bedrock of slate splits into vertical layers —> vine roots can grow deep in search of limited water
Low nutrient and water levels lead to low yields, more so for old vines
What are the vine training and planting densities like in Priorat? Yields?
old vineyards generally low density w/ bush vines
Newer vineyards often VSP trellised where terrain allows, however large areas of high-density plantings are rare
On avg, yields can be as low as 5-6 hL/ha even though max is 39 hL/ha —> higher costs and prices
What are the grape(s) of Priorat?
local varieties of Garnacha and Cariñena still make up majority
~2/3 of plantings are black w/ Garnacha most-planted
Both are well-suited to hot days, dry conditions
CS, Syrah and Merlot make up majority of rest of plantings
White — predominantly Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo = just 6%
Describe winemaking in Priorat
ranges from very traditional to modern
Traditional = basket presses and large oak ferment vats
Modern = SS tanks and optical sorting
Cultured yeast often used b/c high potential alcohol w/ grapes means ambient yeast ferments are slow, could stall
Red wines typically matured in oak, usually FRO, 1-2 yr
Quality winemakers aim for freshness of fruit character & acid
W/ warm conditions & low yields, often 14.5%+ abv
Describe typical Priorat wines
quality minded aim for freshness of fruit character and acid
Wines can be 14.5% + due to warm conditions & low yields
High alc balanced by concentrated, ripe but not jammy fruit
M+ acidity gives freshness
VG to O
What additional classifications are available in Priorat?
Vi de Vila — grapes from 1 of Priorat’s 12 sub-zones; name of the sub zone + Vi de Vila appear on the label
Vi de Paratge — grapes grown w/ in a single “paratge” or named site, equivalent to lieu dit in FR. 459 partages notes for terrain, geo and microclimate
Vinya Classifcada — wine from a single vineyard of particular merit w/in a Paratje, equivalent to a cru
Gran Vinya Classificada — single vineyard of exceptional merit w/ in a Paratje, equivalent to grand cru
What is a Vi de Vila?
a classification w/in Priorat
grapes from 1 of Priorat’s 12 sub-zones;
name of the sub zone + Vi de Vila appear on the label
Producers must own the vineyard from which the grapes came or have rented the vineyard for >=7yr
Regs re: min % Garnacha & Cariñena, vine age, max yields
What is a Vi de Paratge?
a classification w/in Priorat
grapes grown w/ in a single “paratge” or named site,
equivalent to lieu dit in FR. 459 paratges notes for terrain, geo and microclimate
Producers must own the vineyard from which the grapes came or have rented the vineyard for >=7yr
Regs re: min % Garnacha & Cariñena, vine age, max yields
What is a Vinya Classificada?
a classification w/in Priorat
wine from a single vineyard of particular merit w/in a Paratje,
equivalent to a cru
Producers must own the vineyard from which the grapes came or have rented the vineyard for >=7yr
Regs re: min % Garnacha & Cariñena, vine age, max yields
Involves critical “recognition” (as an outstanding wine brand) very min 5 yr
What is a Gran Vinya Classificada?
a classification w/in Priorat
single vineyard of exceptional merit w/ in a Paratje,
equivalent to grand cru
Producers must own the vineyard from which the grapes came or have rented the vineyard for >=7yr
Regs re: min % Garnacha & Cariñena, vine age, max yields
Involves critical “recognition” (as an outstanding wine brand) very min 5 yr
What is required to be considered “old vine” in Priorat?
Consejo Regulador certifies the use of the term
Grapes must come from vineyards min 75 yr old or planted before 1945
Describe the growing conditions in Montsant DO
Location
Climate
When rain falls
Where vineyards are
Forms almost a complete ring around Priorat DOQ
Majority of vineyards are in the S where land flattens to lower valley of Ebro River
Med climate (more than Priorat) due to proximity to coast
SOME shelter by Serra de Llaberia
SU warm & dry w/ most rain in WI & SP
Some vineyards w/ higher altitude (300-700m) —> cooler
Describe the soils of Montsant DO
mixture of soils ranging from clay-based to sandy
Some patches of llicorella, particularly towards S where there is higher limestone content
Generally more fertile than Priorat so yields tend to be higher
Discuss vineyard management in Montsant DO
Topography less extreme than in Priorat, particularly in S
A # of vineyards on slopes are terraced —> reduces erosion and helps retain water (also done in Priorat)
Trellised vineyards common, permitting mechanization
Some vineyards are also bush vines
What grape(s) in Montsant
Black grapes dominate at 94%
2/3 of those are Garnacha and Cariñena
Unlike Priorat, Tempranillo is next most planted
Also significant Syrah, Merlot and CS
Describe the typical wine from Montsant
Many are blends but varietal Garnacha and Cariñena are not uncommon
Typical 1-2 yr maturation in FRO or AMO barrels
Final wine style depends on grapes used, area of production, producer
Tend to be ripe, fruity wines w/ full body & high alcohol, w/ M+ acidity in wines from coolest sites
G to VG, $$ to $$$
Describe the wine biz in Montsant
General size of land
# of wineries
What type of biz is majority of production
% export and top markets
1900 ha farmed by ~700 growers (avg 2.7 ha ea)
60 wineries
Co-ops are majority of production
A # of Priorat producers have ventures here b/c similar climate but cheaper land
45% exported
Top countries: GER, USA, FR, CH, UK
Where is Costers del Segre DO?
Catalunya DO
Farther N than other DOs
7 not entirely contiguous sub-zones
Relatively far from Mediterranean coast
What is the climate of Costers del Segre DO
Relatively far from Mediterranean coast
Continental w/ Hot SU and Cold WI
Low rainfall @ 400mm
When was Costers del Segre initially planted to vines? By whom?
Early 1900s
Manuel Raventos, who owned Cava producer Codorniu
Decades of establishment work needed before the semi-arid land could support vines
What had to be done in Costers del Segre to make it possible to grow vines?
Saline soils of the area had to be improved
Irrigation channels installed (area is semi-arid)
When was Costers del Segre DO established?
in Mid-1980s
Raventos’ winery — Raimat — produced first commercially available vintage in 1978
Success of 1st few vintages encouraged establishment
Describe the Costers del Segre DO
Elevation
Main wine style produced + others
Soils
altitude varies from 200-700m
Coolest sites at highest altitudes mainly used for Cava plus white varieties, and early-ripening black varieties for still wine
Soils sandy and free draining
Since low rainfall (400mm), irrigation mostly needed
What grape(s) in Coster del Segre DO?
Wide range of international and local
Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo (mainly for Cava)
Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, SB for whites
Garnacha, Tempranillo, CS and Merlot for reds & Rosé
What style(s) of wine are common in Coster del Segre DO
Blends, often combo of local & int’l are common, w/ some single varietal
Generally fresh, fruity stye for early drinking
Red and some chard may be aged in FRO or AMO, less of which is new than in past
$$ w/ a few $$$
Describe the wine biz in Costers del Segre
Ha
Major landowner
# of wineries
Program
4000ha
Raimat (Raventos family) owns 1/3 of land
~40 wineries
Region has its own sustainability program w/ 40% of producers adhering, acct’g for 70% of production
Where are Valencia and Murcia (autonomous communities) located?
- E to SE coast of Spain
What price would you expect from Valencia and Murcia?
A large % is inexpensive, often sold in bulk
However, there is an increasing # of producers making VG wine at $$$ price
Describe Valencia DO
General size
How it is divided
Largest DO of autonomous community of Valencia
Split into 2 non-contiguous areas
Includes a # of smaller sub-zones
500,000 hL/yr
Describe the climate of Valencia DO
Rainfall and implications
Warm Mediterranean w/ cooling influences from altitude or proximity to coast
Low rainfall @ 450mm
Irrigation widely used
What is the coolest area of Valencia DO? Why?
What is it known for?
Alto Turia sub-zone
Located in S foothills of Sistema Ibérico mountain range in upper valley of River Turia
Altitudes of 700-1100m
Produces EXCLUSIVELY whites, most notably from Moscatel de Alejandría and Merseguera
Describe the Valentino sub-zone of Valencia
Altitude
Mitigation
warmer than Alto Turia
200-650m (vs, 700-1100)
Cooled somewhat by sea breezes
What grape(s) in Valentino and Clariono sub-zones of Valencia
diverse range of local & Int’l
Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouchet), Tempranillo, CS, Monastrell for red & rosé
Merseguera and Macabeo for whites
What grape(s) in the Moscatel sub-zone of Valencia?
concentrates on producing sweet wine “Moscatel de Valencia” and “vino de licor” (unfermented grape must that has been fortified w/ grape spirit) from Moscatel de Alexandria grapes
Describe the wine biz in Valencia
Producer type
Main SQP
Vast majority of wines are local co-op in fruity style for immediate consumption
A # of producers making G to VG at $$ price
Describe Utiel-Requena DO
Location
Climate
Mitigating factor(s)
Rainfall
located inland from N part of Valencia DO, w/ western limit bordering on La Mancha
Continental w/ hot SU, very cold WI
Avg altitude 750m, promoting cool SU nites but also potential frost in SP
450mm rain
Grape(s) of Utiel-Requena DO
87% black
Most planted is Bobal at >70%, many over 40yr
Describe Bobal grape
black grape, most planted grape of Utiel-Requena DO in Valencia
Well-suited to region @ mid to late budding (avoid SP frost), very drought tolerant, able to retain acid
Can ripen unevenly
Can be vigorous and high yielding, but can be kept in balance
Gives high level of color (so can be used to add color for other wines)
Why can Bobal wines sometimes be grippy?
it ripens unevenly
So lack of ripeness in some bunches can make tannins grippy or even firm
Describe wines made w/ Bobal
Originally best known for Rosé b/c of high acid and fruity nature
Reds range in style from light-body, M Tannin made by semi-carbonic to concentrated w/ M+ tannins
To concentrated wines w/ M+ tannins, M+ to full-body, high acid (often old vine fruit, matured in oak)
Blackberry, black cherry, often notes of chocolate
A to G; $ to $$
Where is Alicante DO?
Most southerly of autonomous community of Valencia
Non-contiguous, near coast around city of Alicante
Smallest @ 9k ha under vine
How big is Alicante DO?
What options do producers have?
smallest of Valencia at 9k ha
Grapes from neighboring Jumilla and Yecla in Murcia are permitted in DO Alicante wines
Describe the climate of Alicante DO
generally Mediterranean w/ hot SU and cold WI
Extremely dry w/ 250mm rain
What grape(s) in Alicante DO
main grape is Monastrell (75% plantings)
Alicante Bouschet, Garnacha, Bobal also planted
Moscatel de Alejandria is key grape in NE region on the coast where it is humid and receives 500mm (vs avg 205), used to make dry and sweet wines
How is Monastrell suited to Alicante DO
How is it typically trained?
Density?
suited ot hot, dry climate as it is late-ripening, able to retain acidity and drought tolerant
Generally planted at low density as bush vines
Describe a typical red Alicante DO wine
min 80% Monastrell
Other varieties: Alicante Bouschet, Garnacha, Bobal
Full body
Dry
High alcohol and tannins
Ripe black fruit
Matured in oak, usually AMO common
Some aiming for fresher style w/ lower or M alc
Generally G to VG, $$ w/ some $$$
Describe Fondillón?
a historic style protected by the DO
M-sweet red wine
Max 40 g/L RS
Late-harvested Monastrell (low AU rain makes possible)
Min 16% abv, solely from grapes, not fortification
Aged min 10 yr oak (often traditional 1200L old)
Can be añada (single vintage) or solera blended
Tend to be oxidized, w/ dried fruit and nuts aromas/fl
What is the name of the historic wine style, protected by the Alicante DO?
- Fondillón
Where is Jumilla DO
Size/ ha
in autonomous Murcia
On area of flat plains and wide valleys between Alicante (to E in Valencia) and La Mancha in the west
~25k ha
Climate of Jumilla DO?
warm continental w/ hot SU and cold WI
Altitudes of 400-800m provide cooling influence and large diurnal range for highest sites
Rainfall extremely low @250-300mm
Describe the soil of Jumilla DO
sand over layer of limestone
Aids retention of ground water —> important due to extreme low rain @ 250-300mm/ yr and many not equipped w/ irrigation
Grape(s) of Jumilla DO
- dominant is Monastrell (Mourvèdre) @ ~80%
What was Jumilla DO known for producing for most of the 20th century? When did that change? Why?
solely a producer of inexpensive wines sold in bulk
In 1989, region was devastated by phylloxera
Significant portion of vines grubbed up and re-planted
Chance to use virus-free vines and higher qual clones of Monastrell than what was previously planted
Improved vineyard mgmt & winemaking (earlier harvest, cooler ferments) improved quality
Describe a typical wine from Jumilla DO
Grape (s)
Body
Alcohol
Aromas
Acidity
Monastrell (black grape Mourvèdre)
May be blended w/ Cencibel (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet), Garnacha CS, Merlot, Syrah, PV to lower tannin levels
Full body
High alc
Ripe blackberry and cherry fruit, spice form oak maturation
VG —> concentrated fruit balanced by M+ acid
Style(s) of wine made in Jumilla DO
mainly red from Monastrell which might be blended w/ other varieties
Some Rosé (also from Monastrell)
Small amounts of White
Describe the wine biz in Jumilla DO
2000 growers & 30 wineries, including co-ops
High volumes of inexpensive wines are majority although better quality is now the norm than in past
Majority is sold as exports, particularly the better quality
Name example(s) of producers of Jumilla DO focused on making VG quality
Casa Castillo
Bodegas El Nido
Where is Yecla DO?
Size?
In Murcia (autonomous community)
Between Jumilla (in Murcia) and Alicante (in Valencia)
~6k ha
How does Yelca DO compare to Jumilla?
very similar, (warm continental, hot SU, cold WI) but w/ slightly more moderation from Mediterranean
Altitude also a cooling influence, w/ vineyards at 500-900m
Rainfall low @ 300mm/yr (Jumilla 250-300mm)
Similar soils: sand w/ limestone, helping to retain water
Same black grapes permitted: Monastrell dominant
Wine styles similar, G to VG, $ to $$ w/ some $$$
What is the nature of the wine biz in Yecla?
makes both bottled and bulk wine
One co-op responsible for 60% of total output
95% is exported
Where is Castilla-LaMancha?
General climate? Why?
a large autonomous community to S and SE of Madrid
Landlocked
Located on S part of Spain’s meseta (plateau) = extreme continental climate
What is the largest DO in Spain and largest PDO of Europe?
La Mancha DO
Where is LaMancha DO located?
Castilla-LaMancha autonomous community
On Large, relatively flat meseta (plateau) at 500-700m
Describe the climate of La Mancha DO
Continental w/ extremely hot summers (max temps of 45C/113F) and very cold WI (-20C/-4F)
Low rainfall at 300-400m
Describe the soils of La Mancha DO
limestone & chalk —> help retain water but drip irrigation relatively common (~40% of vineyards)
Describe the vine training and planting densities of La Mancha DO
low density, as little as 1k vines/ ha for bush trained vines w/o irrigation
Irrigated, trellised vines ~3k vines/ ha
Grape(s) of LaMancha DO
Airén is most planted at 90k ha (!)
Cencibel (aka Tempranillo) most planted black grape
What is the style of wines of Airen from La Mancha DO
Neutral, white, usually SS fermented to make low intensity, M acid for early production,
although much is used to be distilled into Bandy de Jerez
What style of Cencibel do you expect from La Mancha DO?
aka Tempranillo
Often in a fruity style w/ short contact w/ oak, though Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva can be found
What is the structure of the wine biz in LaMancha DO?
Main producer
% export
Main markets
almost 15k grape growers
250 wineries
Co-ops a majority of production
Virgen de las Viñas in Tomelloso is largest producer in all of Spain, w/ 2k members farming 20k ha
Wine is sold as bulk or bottled
~40% exported
Main markets: China, GER, Russia, Netherlands
What is the largest co-op in La Mancha?
In Spain?
How many members and ha?
Virgen de las Viñas in Tomelloso is largest producer in all of Spain,
w/ 2k members farming 20k ha
Where is Valdepeñas DO?
- S of La Mancha DO
Climate of Valdepeñas DO?
- continental climate w/ hot dry SU
Main wine from Valdepeñas DO?
red wines made from Cencibel (Tempranillo)
Ripe red fruit, soft tannins, M acid, oak spice
G to VG, $ to $$
How many Vino de Pago are there in Spain?
In Castilla-LaMancha?
What was the first? What wine (grapes)?
Spain has 18 VdP
Castilla-LaMancha has 9 of these
The first (perhaps most well known) is Dominic de Valdepusa
Wines from CS, Syrah, PV
Where is Castilla VT (VdlT)?
General climate, soils
Typical price
This Vino de la Tierra covers the vast majority of the autonomous community of Castilla-LaMancha
Encompasses both La Mancha DO and Valdepeñas DO as well as some others which cover ~1/2 of its area
Climate & soil are similar to these 2 DOs (continental w/ extreme hot SU, cold WI)
Large range of local & int’l grapes — wider than allowed in DOs
Generally $ to $$
Describe the Basque Country
Autonomous community aka Euskadi or País Vasco
Stretches along much of N coast of ESP
Main vineyard area split in 2 by the Cantabrian cordillera :
Rioja Alavesa area of Rioja to the S
In N, 3 DOs of Txakoli (aka Chacoli)
Describe the climate of the Txakoli DOs
Moderate Maritime
Rainfall as high as 1600mm —> keeping canopy ventilated is a major concern to avoid fungal disease
What grape(s) in Txakoli DOs
- Honarrabi Zuri is the main white grape
Describe a typical wine made in the Txakoli DOs
Vast majority is dry white, but rosado, red, sweet and sparkling are all made
Hondarrabi Zuri grape
Fermented in cool SS and bottled & released a few mo later
High acid
M(-) body
Low alcohol
Fresh apple, pear, lemon
Sometimes a light spritz
Some producers making w/ more texture and complexity either by lees contact, oak maturation (usually old wood or only small % new), or bottle age
Where is Sierra de Gredos
the Sierra de Gredos is the mountain range to the W of Madrid
It doesn’t have its own DO for wines
Depending on the location of the vineyard, the wines may be labeled as Vinos de Madrid DO, Mentrida DO (w/in Castilla-LaMancha), Cerebros DO or Castilla y León VT
Center of ESP
What type of wine would you expect from Sierra de Gredos
Inexpensive, high volume wines, until relatively recently
A few new producers have set up, focused on quality over qty
Grape(s) of Sierra de Gredos
mostly old vine Garnacha (black)
The most common white grape is Albillo Real
What is the climate of Sierra de Gredos? Mitigating factors?
Center of country so climate is continental
600-1200m provides cooling influence
How does a red wine from Sierra de Gredos compare to one from Aragon?
both mainly Garnacha
Sierra de Gredos is lighter in tannin, w/ M+ acid and fresh strawberry and cherry fruit, although alcohol can still be high
Many use low intervention, ambient yeast, low SO2
Typically G to VG, $$ to $$$
Describe Albillo Real
grown in Sierra de Gredos
Full-body wines w/ citrus & floral
M to M+ acid
Fermentation and maturation varies
Where are the Balearic Islands?
located 95km/60mi from E coast of Spain
Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza, and Formentera
How many denominations do the Balearic islands have?
there are 2 DOs on the island of Mallorca
A # of VTs are spread amongst the other islands
Grape(s) of the Balearic Islands
Manto Negro (light color, high alc, red fruit)
Callet (M to M+ acid, M alc, red fruit)
Monastrell, Tempranillo, Malvasia
Int’l such as CS, Merlot, Syrah, Chard
Blends are common
Where are the Canary Islands?
located off the coast of Morocco
Around 500 km/ 310m S of Island of Madeira
Latitude 28N —> tropical influence
Describe the climate of the Canary Islands
28N latitude —> tropical influence
Hot and humid in growing season
Many islands are mountainous and vineyards found up to 1500M leading to cooler days and wide diurnal ranges
Describe grape growing in the Canary Islands
mainly at high altitude, w/ rugged topography —> mechanization impossible
Phylloxera not present so no need to graft
How many denominations are in the Canary Islands?
Each island has its own DO
Tenerife, the largest island, has 5 DOs
What grape(s) on Tenerife?
Listan Negro
Malvasia
Listan Blanco (Palomino)
Wide variety of Iberian grapes
Field blends common
Describe a Listan Negro wine
Light to M body
M tannins
Raspberry, plum
Carbonic maceration often used to make fruity, early drinking
Some undergo traditional ferment and may age in oak
What is interesting about vine training in Valle de Orotava DO Tenerife?
very distinctive
Several vines twisted together to form long “ropes,” trained on low wires and growing up and down the hillsides
How is the Island of Lanzarote different than those of the rest of the Canary Islands?
topography is relatively flat
Land is covered w/ a layer of dark volcanic ash
Grape growers plant vines in craters dug into the ash and partially surrounded by shotes walls to protect the vines from winds and capture any available moisture
Very low density planting and low yields
Malvasia dominant, for dry and sweet
