Ch2 Bordeaux Flashcards
Describe the location of Bordeaux
The region lies in SW FR, close to the Atlantic Ocean
It is traversed by the River Garonne and River Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde estuary
What is the “Left Bank”?
The vineyards to the west of the Garonne and Gironde
Includes the Medoc and Graves
What is the “Right Bank”?
- The vineyards to the east of the Dordogne and Gironde
What is “Entre-Deux-Mers”?
Literally means, between 2 seas
The vineyards that lie between the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers
What is the general breakdown of types of wine in Bordeaux (i.e. red vs white vs rosé)?
nearly 90% of plantings are black grapes
The production of AOC wine is 85% red, 10% dry white, 4% rosé and 1% sweet white
What are the top varieties in Bordeaux?
Red: Merlot (~59%), Cab Sauv (~20%), Cab Franc (~8%), other reds (~3%)
White: Sémillon (~4%), Sauv Blanc (~4%), Muscadelle (~1%)
Describe the key developments in the history of Bordeaux related to the land and how wine is distributed
17th & 18th century, Dutch residents drain marshy area that was previously unsuitable for agriculture
By mid-18th century, the wines from such properties as Lafite and Margaux were already widely appreciated across Europe and even America
Success was also b/c the city had long been a center for wine exports from other regions such as Bergerac
Led to an entrepreneurial class of merchants whose origins lay in Britain, Ireland, GER, Holland and elsewhere
These merchants and brokers distributed the wines of B and established their international reputation
What was the first important classification of Bordeaux?
in 1855, a major commercial exhibition, the Exposition Universelle de Paris, resulted in the Bordeaux chamber of commerce asking the region’s brokers to comply a classification of wines
The classification was based on price at the time
The estates of the Médoc plus Haut-Brion in Graves were classed into 5 bands, and those of Sauternes into 3
While such classifications had been made before, they were informal assessments
This classification had official status and remains essentially unaltered to this day, continuing to influence prices
How many hectares are planted in Bordeaux?
- about 111K ha planted
What is the breakdown of % of Bordeaux/ Bordeaux Supérieur (i.e. inexpensive to mid-priced) versus premium or super-premium?
Around 70% of all Bordeaux bottled wines are inexpensive or mid-priced
Around 30% are premium or super-premium
How many hectares is Pomerol?
- about 800 ha
Describe the climate of Bordeaux
Moderate Maritime
Cool Atlantic Ocean just west of the vineyards has a cooling influence
Good years see gentle heat throughout the growing season with sufficient rainfall to promote growth and ripening, and fine, relatively dry and warm early autumns to allow for steady and complete ripening
~950mm rain/yr
What does the climate of Bordeaux do for grape development?
The climate can result in an excellent balance of tannins, sugar and acidity, which partly explains the remarkable longevity of great vintages here
What factors mitigate the climate of the Left Bank of Bordeaux?
the Landes Forest helps to protect the Left Bank from Atlantic storms
Estates that fringe these forests, such as Domaine de Chevalier in Léognan and many in Listrac in the Médoc, are cooler and thus more marginal than their neighbors in the east
In the N Médoc, the forest is less of a feature and than landscape is more open to maritime influence, and is therefore cooler than in S Médoc and Graves
Describe the rainfall in Bordeaux
average is 950mm although it is variable, with marked variation from year to year on the times within the year when it falls
The timing of rainfall can have a big influence on vintage variation
What are the key moments that rain can fall that affect the vintage and what are the results?
Rain at flowering can result in poor fruit set
Rain throughout the growing season can result in increased disease pressure
Rain at and following véraison can lead to unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Rain at harvest can dilute flavors
How has climate change affected Bordeaux?
- It has led to hot, dry summers with insufficient rainfall
What can hot, dry summers with insufficient rainfall man for wines?
Hardy grape varieties planted across Bordeaux can resist extremes of temperature but hot dry years (such as 2003) can lead to wines, both red and white, with low acidity that lack balance
They can also lead to wines being more alcoholic than in the past as growers wait for phenolic ripeness before picking
When has frost been a notable issue in Bordeaux?
- 1956, 1991, 2017
Compare the volume produced in the frost-affected 2017 vintage versus the 10 year average
in 2017, 33% less wine was made than the 10-year avg
40% less than the 2016 harvest
What is the term for gravel mounds in Bordeaux?
- Croupes
Describe the soils of the Left Bank of Bordeaux
Deposits of gravel and stony soils carried to the region by floodwaters from the Pyrenees and Massif Central many thousands of years ago
Depending on their origin, the gravel is mixed w/ clay and sand
These gravel mounds are not especially high (highest in Margaux at 32m) nor do they cover the whole region
Gravel, unlike clay, drains well, so even after the showers and storms, to which Left Bank is prone, the roots of the vines soon dry out and the grapes can continue to ripen
Describe the pros and cons of gravel versus clay
Gravel, unlike clay, drains well, so even after the showers and storms that are common in the Left Bank, the roots of the vines soon dry out and the grapes can continue to ripen
Gravel soils also contribute to heat retention. After a warm summer day, the pebbles and stones retain warmth and continue to gradually release it upwards onto the vines, facilitating their slow ripening
However, in hot dry years, such as 2003 and 2005 (and 2016?), the excellent drainage can put some vines at risk of drought stress
Describe the soils of the Right Bank of Bordeaux
There is far more clay in the soil, although there are significant patches of gravel in certain sectors of the Libournais
The best wines come from grapes grown on the limestone plateau or gravel section that borders Pomerol
What grape is more suited to clay?
Merlot. It ripens fully in almost all vintages and accumulates more sugar and thus more alcohol than Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, which has been seen as a benefit in the past
Describe Merlot: budding, ripening, disease pressure, sugar levels, structure
Early budding —> vulnerable to spring frosts
Mid-ripening —> can be picked early before autumn rain
Susceptible to coulure, drought, and most botrytis bunch rot —> sorting is necessary to maintain quality
Can ripen fully in cooler years
Large berry size
Reaches higher sugar levels and therefore higher potential alcohol levels that CS and CF
Contributes Med to pronounced intensity of fruit (strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavors in cooler years, cooked blackberry, black plum in hot years), Med tannins, med to high alcohol to the Bordeaux blend
Describe Cabernet Sauvignon: budding, skins, ripening, disease susceptibility, contribution to Bordeaux blends
Late budding —> protection from spring frosts
Small berried, thick skinned, high tannin content —> wines w/ high tannins
Prone to fungal diseases, esp powdery mildew and trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca
Ripens late (and hence needs to be grown on warmer soil), making it vulnerable to early autumn rains
Produces highest quality fruit on warm, well-drained soils, such as gravel beds of the Médoc
Contributes pronounced violet, black currant, black cherry and menthol or herbaceous flavors, medium alcohol, and high acidity and tannins to Bordeaux blend
What does Cab Franc contribute to Bordeaux Blends?
- red fruit, high acidity, and medium tannins
Is Malbec still used in Bordeaux blends?
After the hard frosts of 1956, Malbec was mainly replaced w/ Merlot, which is easier to grow in Bordeaux
Describe Petit Verdot as used in Bordeaux blends
Buds early and ripens later than CS, making it unpopular w/ growers in the past
Prone to spring frosts, a failure to ripen in cool years, and to rain around harvest
Does better in the warmer parts of the Médoc
When used, often as less than 5% of the blend, it contributes powerful, deeply colored wines w/ spice notes and high tannins
Increasingly valued, especially in warmer climate where it is more likely to ripen
Describe the Sémillon grape in Bordeaux
Mid-ripening
Susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and to noble rot in the right conditions
Can carry high yields
Low intensity apple, lemon and, if under-ripe, grassy flavors
M body, M alcohol
M to M acid
Low to Med intensity aromas, weight and body and medium acidity
In Botrytis-affected sweet Bordeaux wines, it contributes pronounced honey and dried fruit (lemon, peach) character and waxy texture
Sauv Blanc in Bordeaux
It contributes its grassy and gooseberry fruit and high acidity to dry white blinds and to sweet botrytis affected wines b/c of worldwide popularity of the variety
Describe Muscadelle
- White variety needs to be planted on well=-exposed site, as it is very prone to Botrytis
How are vineyards typically planted in Bordeaux? What implications?
Closely spaced vines at 10k vines / ha
Vines planted 1M apart w/ 1M between rows
This is suitable for the relatively infertile soils, resulting in moderate vigor
Close planting adds to costs as more vines and more trellising have to be bought, specialist over-the-row tractors bought, and more time is needed for vine training, ploughing and spraying
However, close planing makes the best use of expensive vineyard land
Vineyards in less prestigious areas are often planted at lower density, such as Bordeaux AOC at 3-4k vines/ ha
What are the pros & cons of high density planting (in Bordeaux)?
Cons
adds to costs as more vines and more trellising have to be bought,
specialist over-the-row tractors bought,
and more time is needed for vine training, ploughing and spraying
Pros:
However, close planing makes the best use of expensive vineyard land
Where are planting densities higher in Bordeaux, prestigious appellations or basic Bordeaux AOC? Why?
Densities are higher in the prestigious appellations because higher densities increase the costs but allow these areas to make best use of expensive vineyard land
What is the most common pruning system in Bordeaux?
Head-trained, replacement cane-pruned, in which canes are trained along wires
On the Left Bank, 2 canes are trained, called Double Guyot
On the right Bank, the single-cane, Single Guyot is more common
The second method is cordon-trained, spur-pruned, which is rare in Bordeaux, although some prestigious estates favor it, arguing it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches
Why do some prestigious Bordeaux estates favor cordon-trained, spur-pruned vines?
They argue it reduces yields naturally and gives better aeration to the bunches
Why is canopy management important in Bordeaux?
Bordeaux’s moderate, damp climate makes it important to reduce the incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew, and botrytis bunch rot
Why do Bordeaux estates use leaf removal? When is it performed?
leaf removal typically happens in the summer
- however, since leaves protect the bunches from sunburn and extreme heat, it is less risky to remove leaves late in the season when extreme heat is less likely and the bunches can benefit from better aeration
It is intended to improve aeration and deter rot
It also exposes grapes to ultraviolet light to aid ripening
What happens when an attack of mildew is followed by rain?
Tractors may have difficulty entering the vineyards to spray
The rain washes away treatments, which can compound problems
What is “soft pruning” and why has it become increasingly popular in Bordeaux?
This process includes making only small cuts if at all possible, leaving some extra wood at the cut site to allow the wood to dry out and maximizing the opportunity for sap to flow around the plant
Eutypa dieback and Esca have become major problems, rotting the vine from the inside
This treatment seems to be fairly successful in combatting it
How is Flavescence dorée controlled in Bordeaux?
It can be contained by using insecticides
However, such treatments make the growing # of organic and biodynamic producers uneasy b/c of the use of synthetic insecticides
What is “bunch-thinning”? Is it common in Bordeaux?
Bunch thinning was approved for practice about 20 years ago
It is a way to correct vines carrying a high yield and to improve concentration of flavor
It is now less popular, as some viticulturists argue that it can unbalance the vine and that pruning short in winter is a better way to control yields
Today, the emphasis is on allowing vines to find a natural balance, avoiding corrective measures unless there is no alternative
What options do viticulturists have for correcting high yield?
Bunch-thinning (less popular now)
Pruning short in the winter
The emphasis today is on allowing vines to find a natural balance, avoiding corrective measures unless there is no alternative
Discuss the trend in yields in Bordeaux
Yields have decreased over the past 2 decades
They now average 50 hL/ha (wines have benefited)
However, there was a fashion for exaggeratedly low yields, especially on the Right Bank, which resulted in super-concentrated wines that could be jammy or fatiguing
Moreover, the sense of place (terroir) was obscured
How has harvest changed in Bordeaux?
harvest used to be a random procedure
Teams were hired to arrive for a defined period, based on an informed guess as to when the grapes would be ripe
This resulted in some grapes being picked under-rip, others overripe, and the remainder just right
Today, harvesting teams are hired for a longer period and expect some days of paid idleness should harvest be interrupted by rain
Is harvest by hand or mechanized in Bordeaux?
It can be either
In some parts of the region, such as the northern Médoc, it is hard to find workers to harvest by hand, as vineyards are 2 hr drive from Bordeaux
So, many vineyards are picked by machine out of economic necessity
Some properties also use machines to collect grapes quickly if fungal disease pressure is high or if the weather forecast is for rain/storms
Grapes for high-volume, inexpensive wines are typically picked by machine
What are the pros/cons of machine harvesting in Bordeaux?
Pro
Allows to pick at the perfect moment of ripeness w/o dealing w/ the vagaries of harvesting teams’ schedules
Avoids having to find workers, who may not be conveniently located to vineyards
Allows grapes to be picked quickly if fungal disease pressure is high or if the weather forecast is for rain/ storms
Con
Harvesting by hand gives greater quality control, which is why tope estates routinely pick by hand
What level of grape sorting is typical in Bordeaux?
Levels vary according to the value of the wine and the quality of the vintage
Grapes for inexpensive wines will not be routinely sorted
Grapes for high quality wines will be sorted 1st by those harvesting by hand as they pick, then by hand on a moving or vibrating belt, or, in well-funded properties, by optical sorting
What is “plot-by-plot” winemaking?
How is it employed in Bordeaux?
What challenges does it present?
The picking of individual plots for optimum ripeness and then making separate small lots of wine with those grapes
Employed by properties that produce high-quality wines
Requires added care over selecting harvesting dates, and also requires more and smaller vessels to be available in the winery, adding to cost but producing higher quality
What is typical in terms of fermentation of red wines in Bordeaux?
Closed vats with pump-overs is the usual practice
Most properties used cultured yeast for its reliability
Fermentation vessels include wood, stainless steel, concrete
All vessels are fitted for temp control
What fermentation temps are common for red Bordeaux?
How long does skin maceration usually last?
Temps depend on the style of wine and quality of the vintage
Mid-range fermentation temps (~25C?/77F?) and a short period on the skins after fermentation (5-7 days) is typical for early-drinking wines to preserve primary fruit and limit tannin extraction (guesstimate is based on range of 77-85F overall for reds)
Mid-range to warm fermentation temps 25-29C/ 77-85F?) and a total of 14-30 days on the skins may be employed for wines intended to be aged for many years in bottle.
Maceration times are reduced in poor vintages if the fruit is not fully ripe
What happens to red Bordeaux when maceration is complete?
Wine is drained off,
The remaining skins are pressed, either in pneumatic presses or in modern vertical or hydraulic presses, which are believed to give the best results because of their gentle extraction
The press wine, like the free-run, is transferred into 225L barrels (barriques)
The winemaker will later decide what proportion of press wine the final blend will contain, depending on whether the free-run needs more structure and tannin
What is a key determining factor as to if/ how much press juice will be added to free-run in the final red Bordeaux blend?
Mainly depends on whether the free-run needs more structure and tannin
Describe MLF/C in red Bordeaux
Where does it take place?
Indigenous or inoculated yeast?
Takes place either un tanks or in the barrels
It’s argued that if it is in barrel there is better integration of wine and wood
As top quality wine will be tasted initially in the following spring by buyers and wine journalists, many estates will inoculate to ensure rapid completion of MLF/C
Cellars may be heated to encourage efficient conversion
How is red Bordeaux typically aged?
Simpler wines are typically aged in SS, concrete vats, or large vats for 4-6 mo. and oak chips may be added for an oak flavor effect
High quality wines are matured in FRO barriques, most common is a mix of new, 1yr and 2yr old barriques,
Some prestigious properties will use up to 100% new oak, though the % of new oak has been decreasing in recent years to more moderate levels for many estates
Describe use of cooperages in (quality) red Bordeaux
Winemakers often choose the barrel makers, often opting for a range of cooperages for greater perceived complexity
The level of toast is typically M to M+
How long are red Bordeaux wines typically matured?
Wines will typically be matured for 18-24 mo, depending on the quality of the wine and the progress of maturation in any given year
Wines of greater concentration and higher tannins need longer
