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Marine Science > Ch 4 Test > Flashcards

Ch 4 Test Flashcards

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1
Q

what Generates forces of ocean waves

A

Wind, earthquakes (causing tsunamis) and landslides (including ice breaking off of glaciers)

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2
Q

What do waves start as?

A

capillary waves aka ripples in the water

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3
Q

As more energy is captured by the ocean what waves develop.

A

larger, or gravity waves

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4
Q

Swells

A

Waves that have moved
out of their area of
origin. They have long
wavelengths, with
regular pattern of crests
and troughs. They have
large amount of energy
and lose it slowly.

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5
Q

Tsunamis

A

series of waves,
generated in a body of
water by an impulsive
disturbance that
vertically displaces the
water column.

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6
Q

Landslides

A

When a large piece of
land of glacier breaks
off and displaces the
water it falls into. When
the displaced water
comes back, the
movement causes a
series of waves.

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7
Q

Wind speed

A

high wind speed, higher the
waves.

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8
Q

Water depth

A

waves forms more easily in
shallow water.

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9
Q

Fetch

A

the duration that the wind blows in
one direction.

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10
Q

Three Factors of Wave Height

A

Wind speed, fetch and wind duration.

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11
Q

Why would between 40 S and 50 S be considered the most favorable conditions for maximum wave formation?

A

Large areas of open ocean with little landmass
to interfere with fetch. Also, almost constant
westerly winds in the area add to duration.

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12
Q

What are the two restoring forces of wave dissipation?

A
  1. Surface tension restores capillary waves
  2. Gravity restores the larger gravity waves.
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13
Q

Waves

A

are energy that moves through the
water.

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14
Q

Do waves transport water?

A

It does not move water
particles(transport water)

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15
Q

Potential energy

A

energy stored in the height of the
wave.

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16
Q

Kinetic energy

A

energy from the motion of the water
particles of the wave

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17
Q

Orbital Waves

A

particles move in a circular
path.

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18
Q

Crest –

A

highest point of a wave.

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19
Q

Trough

A

– lowest point of a wave.

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20
Q

Still Water level –

A

equilibrium

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21
Q

Wave height(amplitude)

A

the vertical distance
from crest to trough.
Affected by wind speed, wind duration, and fetch

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22
Q

Wavelength

A

the horizontal distance between
two consecutive crests.

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23
Q

Wave period –

A

The time required for the wave
to crest at Point A to reach Point B

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24
Q

Frequency

A

The number of wave crests
passing point A each second

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25
Q

Wave Cancellation

A

Crest of one wave meets
the trough of another. Wave energy is cancelled.

26
Q

Wave Reinforcement

A

Two crests or two
troughs meet in sinc and add to increase the
water height.

27
Q

Rogue Waves

A

Large waves that seem to appear out of nowhere and are unrelated to local sea conditions

28
Q

When do rouge waves occur

A

when various storm waves
collide with each other reach near the edges of continental shelves and where there are constant wind, wave and current patterns.

29
Q

For deep-water waves, the wave must occur in
water that is deeper than ___ the wave’s length.

A

1/2

30
Q

Do orbits reach the ocean floor?

A

The orbits do not reach the ocean floor

31
Q

For deep-water waves, the longer the wavelength, the _____ the wave travels.

A

faster

32
Q

What is the result of the orbits interacting
with the seafloor?

A

As the wave approaches the shore, its orbit is affected by the bottom. The orbit becomes flattened (elliptical) and the forward speed of the wave is reduced because of friction.

33
Q

Water depth is less than ___ of the
wavelength, a shallow-water wave begins to
form.

A

1/20

34
Q

Surf Zone

A
  • the area of the continental margin
    where waves release their energy
35
Q

As the speed slows, the wavelength ______ and the height _______.

A

shortens, increases

36
Q

What changes to wave height and wave speed would you expect as waves enter the shoaling
zone?
a. Both wave height and wave speed increase.
* b. Both wave height and wave speed decrease.
* c. Wave height increases while wave speed decreases.
* d. Wave height decreases while wave speed increases

A

c. Wave height increases while wave speed decreases.

37
Q

spilling breakers

A

results in gently
sloping ocean bottom. Losses
energy more slowly than the
others.

38
Q

plunging breakers

A

results
in moderately steep ocean
bottoms

39
Q

surging breaker

A

results from
the ocean bottom having an
abrupt slope. Energy is
compressed into a short distance
and waves break quickly.

40
Q

Sediment

A

As waves move down the shore,
they move sand and sediment down a beach.

41
Q

Water

A

Water is moved along beach as well

42
Q

Rip Currents

A

Because of waves, water is transported towards the shore. Water then flows along the shoreline until it reaches an area where it can flow seaward again. These areas are
usually narrow and distances apart. This leads to the formation of rip currents.

43
Q

Three Indicators of a Rip Current

A

1) turbid water and floating debris moving seaward.
2) areas of reduced wave height.
3) depressions in beach, perpendicular to shore.

44
Q

Rip currents are commonly observed on beaches
with a _____ slope.

A

gentle

45
Q

tsunami

A

a wave train, or series of waves, generated in a body of water by an impulsive disturbance that vertically
displaces the water column.

46
Q

Tsunamis are shallow water waves in all oceans. Why?

A

Depth of wave base is equal to roughly ½ the wavelength. Since most tsunamis wavelengths are about 125 miles, the ocean depth would have to be greater than 62 miles. There is no part of any ocean basin that is
deeper than 62 miles. Example: Mariana Trench is only 7 miles deep.

47
Q

What is a tide?

A

The rise and fall of the
sea, usually twice in
each lunar day at a
particular place due to
the attraction between
Earth and the moon and
Earth and the sun.

48
Q

Interdial Zone

A

a marine ecosystem existing due to the rise and fall of the daily tides

49
Q

Lunar Day

A

24 hours and 50
minutes

50
Q

Why do the times for high tides and low tides in an
area vary each day?

A

The Earth must rotate an extra 50 minutes to
align directly with the Moon again.

51
Q

Monthly tidal cycle(lunar cycle) is _________

A

29 ½ days

52
Q

Diurnal tide

A

1__high tide; __1__ low tide
each day. Common in shallow inland seas and bays.

53
Q

Semidiurnal tide

A

__2___ high tides; __2 low tides each day. Common Atlantic coast of the US, west coast of Africa

54
Q

Mixed tide

A

Usually: __2_ high tides; __2__
low tides each day.

55
Q

Minus tide

A

A low tide that falls below the mean average.

56
Q

A rising tide is called a—

A

flood tide

57
Q

A falling tide is called an

A

ebb tide

58
Q

When does slack water occur?

A

When tidal currents slow and reverse.

59
Q

Tidal bores

A

true tidal waves; Tidal bores usually form along shallow bays and
river mouths because of
the sharp change in
water depth forces the
rising tide at great
speed against the out
flow of river water.

60
Q

For a tidal bore to form, four main factor must exist:

A

1 - Exceptionally high spring tidal range.

  • # 2 - Shape of channel that grows narrow andshallow, upriver.
  • # 3 – abrupt rise of flood tide but a long ebbtide phase.
  • # 4 – low-lying river with a consistent seawardflow of water.

Marine Science (7 decks)

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