Ch. 21 – Portugal Flashcards

1
Q

Portugal growing environment

topography and soil

A

Rolling hills and plains in the south

Soils
- significant variations
- Mountain regions - schist and granite
- South - more variation - clay, limestone, sand
- fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks (Tejo)

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2
Q

Portugal climate

A

Strongly infuenced by Atlantic (cool rainy weather)

More continental climate inland
- protection from mountain ranges
- warmer, drier, south

Hazards
- drought (especially inland)
- extreme weather events - hail, storms, wildfires
- Wet weather in coastal regions - fungal diseases
- Esca and European grapevine moth

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3
Q

Portugal viticulture

A

A lot of high-producing vineyards on fertile alluvial soils (Tejo) have been grubbed up, thanks to vine pull scheme

Training:
- cordon or replacement-cane and VSP trellised
- significant number of old bush vines (Douro, Alentejo)
- mixed vineyards, producing ‘field blends’

Irrigation allowed
- most do not need to apply for authorization
- Generally only if lack of water threatens quality
- cannot be used for boosting yield

Low proportion of certified organic vinayards
- some practice organic but do not certify, due to cost

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4
Q

Grape varieties in Portugal

A

Growing tendency to return to local varieties
Majority of wines are blends

Aragonez/Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca
Touriga Nacional
Fernão Pires/Maria Gomes (white)
Castelão
Trincadeira
Baga
Loureiro (white)
Arinto/Pedernã (white)
Roupeiro
Alicante Bouschet

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5
Q

Portugal winemaking

A

Mostly blends

Admission to EU started large modernization
- protective techniques
- temperature control, stainless, de-stemming
- French oak (primary type of oak)

Traditional techniques
- large Portugese oak and Brazilian hardwood toneis (3,000-6,000L)
- more restrained use of oak and larger format
- new foudres (around 2,000-2,500L)
- chestnut barrels

Lagares - regularly practiced

Fermenting wine in clay vessels

Pre-fermentation skin contact for Portugese whites
- growth in natural wines

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6
Q

Portugese wine law

A

as member of EU, follows PDO and PGI system

DOC/DOP (denominação de origem controlada/protegida)
- all wines must be officially tested, tasted and approved

VR (Vinho Regional)
- often permit international varieties

Vinho
- no PGI or PDO status

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7
Q

Wine business in Portugal general

A

Grape growing represents 35% of total national agricultural output (highest in the world)

Land of small holdings
- in the past, most growers sold to negociants or co-ops
- Sogrape - largest producer in Portugal
- increasing number of growers produce their own wine (Quinta)

Trend of small winemakers who do not own land, who source their grapes from overlooked regions or native varieties

Major exporter
- steady growth in volume and value of unfortified wine
- Angola, Germany
- used to have a captive market in Portuguese colonies like Angola

Increase in domestic sales due to significant increase in tourism and growth in average income

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8
Q

Portugese wine regions

A

Vinho Verde (Minho VR)

Douro

Dão

Bairrada

Alentejo
+ Vinho de Talha DOC

Lisboa
- Alenquer DOC
- Bucelas DOC
- Arinto DOC
- Colares DOC

Peninsula de Setubal
- Palmela DOC
- Setubal DOC

Tejo DOC / VR

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9
Q

Vinho Verde

topography

A

Atlantic to the west
River Minho to the north
Douro to the south
Mountains to the east

Mostly granite bedrock with shallow topsoil of granite and sandy texture
- good drainage
- low fertility
- fertilizers commonly used

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10
Q

Vinho Verde

climate and viticulture

A

Moderate maritime climate
- Atlantic coast
- network of rivers funnelling Atlantic winds inland
- land gradually raises inland (soils become poorer)
- inland more continental (warmer, drier)
- high rainfall
- marked vintage variation

Fungal disease problems
- rot, mildew
- vines traditionally trained up trees for circulation
- single or double Guyot with VSP or Lyre
- importance of summer pruning to open canopy

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11
Q

Vinho Verde grape varieties

A

Large change from red to white dominated
- in the 1960s, 80% was red
- now 80% white

LAPAT

Loureiro (#1)
Pedernã
Alvarinho
Avesso
Trajadura
Vinhao (most planted black.. cherry and high acid)

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12
Q

Loureiro

A

Loureira in Spain

Mostly grown by the coast (Vinho Verde)

Mid ripening

Med+ acidity, citrus, pear, floral, herbal notes

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13
Q

Pedernã

A

Local name for Arinto in Vinho Verde

More neutral in flavor than the other varieties in Vinho Verde, but provides high acidity

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14
Q

Alvarinho

A

Citrus, peach, sometimes tropical flavours

Med+ body, med+ to high acidity

Admitted as named grape variety on the label since 2016

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15
Q

Avesso

A

late ripening
- can fail to ripen unless very warm and dry
- tends to be grown inland
- especially in the south, e.g. Baião

Lower in acidity, relatively full bodied

Citrus and stone fruit

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16
Q

Trajadura

A

(Treixadura in Rias Baixas)

low in acidity with apple and peach flavours

Usually blended with more acidic varieries

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17
Q

Winemaking in Vinho Verde

A

Inexpensive wines
- protective winemaking
- cool fermentation
- bottled shortly after fermentation
- carbon dioxide often added to give light spritz
- low alcohol, high acidity, apple, citrus, peach
- some may have residual sugar
- usually made by co-ops

Higher priced wines
- Mostly old oak for ferment and/or maturation
- may age on lees
- some use ambient yeast
- no spritz
- usually made by smaller boutique producers

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18
Q

Vinho Verde legal requirements

A

Name of sub-region may appear on the label
- min alcohol of 9%
- 8% without sub-region

Monção and Melgaço (single varietal Alvarinho)
- lower max yields
- min alcohol of 11.5%
- only sub-region able to label single varietal Alvarinho
- other regions must declassify to Minho VR to label single varietal Alvarinho
- other regions can label Alvarinho (min 30% of blend) along other varieties of the blend

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19
Q

Wine business in Vinho Verde
- Producers
- export
- market composition

A

Extremely fragmented
- average holding less than .1ha
- most deliver to co-ops or merchants

Producer
- Quinta de Soalheiro

Gradually growing exports (35%)
- Germany, USA

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20
Q

Douro climate

(also in consideration of sub-regions)

+ soil

A

Follows Douro river
- number of aspects and microclimates

Serra do Marão (west)
- shielding from Atlantic
- warm continental climate

3 sub-regions
- Baixo Corgo - coolest, wettest
- Cima Corgo - warmer, drier
- Douro Superior - hot and arid

Schist bedrock, low organic matter and stony texture
- stores little water
- splits into vertical layers
- many hillsides are not set up for irrigation (irrigation is allowed but grower must notify IVDP)

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21
Q

Douro grape varieties

A

Usually blends
Similar to Port production

Touriga Nacional
Touriga Franca
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo)
Tinta Barroca
Tinta Cão
Sousão

Viosinho
Rabigato
Gouveio
Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains)

22
Q

Douro viti hazards

A

Late spring frost in high altitude vineyards

Wet weather during early summer

Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot
- canopy management, fungicides

Fertilizers may be necessary

Lack of labour for harvest

23
Q

Touriga Franca

A

late ripening
- suitable on warmest sites (low altitude, south facing)

Tight bunches of thick-skinned grapes
- relative resistance to fungal diseases

Can be vigorous
- needs to be managed
- summer pruning

Retains acidity well

Contributes colour, tannins and acidity
Juicy red and black fruit, floral aroma

24
Q

Touriga Nacional

A

Mid-ripening

Thick-skinned grapes
- deep colour
- high tannins

Retains acidity well

Can suffer from excessive vigor
- needs to be managed

High level of color and tannins
- black fruit and floral
- long ageing potential

25
Tinta Roriz
(Tempranillo in Spain, Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal) early ripening - best grown on relatively cool sites - can suffer from water stress Contributes body, colour to the blend Capable of high yields, but has to be limited
26
Sousão
Thick-skinned berries - deep colour - ability to retain high acidity brings freshness to the blend
27
Grape varieties for white wine in Douro and their characters
Viosinho - full bodied, floral, stone fruit - can lack acidity Rabigato - high acidity, citrus, floral Gouveio (Godello) - medium+ acidity, citrus, stone fruit Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains) - enhances intensity of aroma in blend White grapes tend to be planted on coolest sites (e.g. high altitude, north-facing, or located in the west)
28
Douro DOC winemaking
over 70% red Often blend of sites to reduce vintage variation Sometimes field blend of old vine fruit (vinhas velhas) - all Port houses make dry wine - best: Prats & Symington Usually destemmed (additional tannin rarely needed) Stainless with temp control - relatively cool temps for reds - greater tannin control - some producers still use lagares (or may start ferment there) - easier to monitor extraction level than in closed tank Post-ferment maceration for premium wine (soften tannin) - traditionally matured in large Portuguese oak vessels - today, mainly French oak barriques - trend towards less new oak and larger vessels Inexpensive whites made protectively - often contain Moscatel Premium whites made from old vines and tend to be aged in oak (new or old) - very good or outstanding
29
Wine business Douro DOC
Port is 60% of production VR Duriense can be used by producers using non-local varieties - produces small volumes Many co-ops (inexpensive wines) - many premium wines made by the Port houses, often from select plots Beneficio controls prices and volumes of Port - does not touch Douro wines Price of grapes for Douro DOC are below Porto DOC - in years of surplus prices drop even further (often below production costs) 35% exported (Brazil, Canada)
30
Dão DOC climate Soils and hazards
surrounded by mountains - protected from cool maritime weather (west) - protected from arid conditions (east, south) Mediterranean climate - relatively high rainfall, mainly in autumn, winter - traditionally bush vines, but now VSP Number of hills, valleys, mountain ranges - varied altitude and aspects (most at 400-500m) - pine and eucalyptus forests Weathered granite soils - low nutrients - free draining - constaining vigour - water stress can be problem Hail during summer, spring frosts below mountains
31
Dão DOC Grape varieties and winemaking
around 80% red wine Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alfrocheiro - often blended - often less full bodied than Douro, with fresher flavors and more acidity - used to undergo long maceration and maturation (lacking in fruit) - now, shorter maceration and aging is common (new oak is typical, but trend is for less) - good to outstanding Encruzado - key variety for white wines - medium (medium+) acidity, can be full bodied, lemon, peach, floral - neutral ferment or fermentation/maturation in oak - sometimes lees stirring - capable of ageing well Other white varieries: - Bical - Cercial
32
Jaen
Mencia in Spain (grown in Dão) moderate acidity, raspberry, blackberry Sometimes made by carbonic maceration
33
Alfrocheiro
Medium tannin and body Strawberry and blackberry Usually made in a soft fruity style
34
Wine business in Dão
area of small vineyard holdings Sogrape led the way in producing higher quality wines at all price points Growing number of quality-minded estates and merchants - Vinha Paz Only 15-20% exported (Brazil, Canada)
35
Bairrada climate and soils viticulture
Maritime climate - generous rainfall, mainly in spring and fall (problematic for late-ripening) Fertile alluvial soils in west Limestone-clay slopes in the south Traditionally, high-trained individually staked bush vines - recent plantings are trellised (Guyot)
36
Baga
Black grape variety dominating Bairrada region High acidity and tannins, medium body Cranberry, cherry, plum Can be astringent when young, but softer and more complex with bottle ageing. Previously grown at high yields - lacked concentration - much was used for Mateus Rose - now, greater understanding of how to treat it in the vineyard and winery Late ripening and productive - careful site selection to ensure full ripeness - south-facing slopes - best on limestone-clay (best balance of drainage vs. water retention) - photosynthesis can stop in drought - light-colored limestone soils reflect light onto vines - green harvesting may be carried out
37
Bairrada winemaking
Baga traditionally fermented on stems - long ageing required - now wines are de-stemmed (but some using a proportion of whole clusters) Vessels range from stainless steel to concrete to lagares Maturation typically in large French oak barrels - some use traditional Portuguese oak toneis - others use foudres
38
Other red grape varieties in Bairrada
Mainly Baga (some are blends of Baga) Touriga Nacional Alfrocheiro Jaen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
39
Baga classico requirements
min 50% Baga min 85% of any blend Baga, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Camarate
40
White wines in Bairrada + descriptions of varieties
Maria Gomes (Fernao Pires in other parts of Portugal) - early ripening - can produce high yields - citrus, floral aroma - loses acidity fast (otherwide med+) Bical - early ripening, peach, tropical - loses acidity fast (otherwise med+) Arinto and Cercial - may be used to blend in for acidity Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay Inexpensive wines from sandy soils, fermented in steel and released early Mid-priced and premium sourced from clay-limestone soils and fermented/matured in oak
41
Wine business in Bairrada
Cooperatives and merchants are common Also produces traditional method sparkling wines VR Beira Atlantico can be used - boundaries extend beyond Bairrada DOC
42
Alentejo DOC climate Soils Training system
Algarve's mountains to the south Mediterranean climate - hot, dry summers - low to moderate rainfall - irrigation widely used Mostly plains and gentle slopes, with some mountains 8 non-contiguous sub-regions Alentejano VR - used by producers outside the 8 sub-regions Wide range of soils - granite, schist, limestone with varying texture Mostly double cordon with VSP
43
DOC for aphorae fermented wines in Alentejo
Vinho de Talha DOC Talha = amphora
44
Alentejo's most famous sub-region
Portalegre - in the north, where it's less hot and dry - over 800m high - fresher, higher acidities - unlike most of Alentejo, vineyards tend to be small
45
Alentejo grape varieties and winemaking
Mostly blends (75% red) Reds range from fruity and early-drinking to super-premium and age-worthy Aragonez Alicante Bouschet (color, acidity, tannins) Trincadeira (susceptible to rot.. contributes red and black berry) Touriga Nacional (adds tannin and acidity) Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot (increasing) Whites can be steel-fermented or oak-fermented for longer aging Roupeiro (retains acidity well.. citrus and stone fruit) Antão Vaz (drought tolerant.. can lack acidity) Arinto (Pedernã in Vinho Verde) Chardonnay Viognier Alvarinho
46
Alentejo wine business
Accounts for 40% of all domestic sales in Portugal 20% of total Portugese export (Brazil, Angola) Area of larger holdings - well suited to cost-effective, high-volume mechanized viticulture (dry, flat, warm) - relatively young vineyards Strongly focused on tourism - cellar doors - proximity to Lisbon - often producing range of other products (ham, olive oil)
47
Lisboa Climate and topography
Serra de Montejunto splits the region into two areas - west influenced by Atlantic - wet and windy, clay-limestone soils (lighter styles) - east is more protected, riper fuller wines
48
Lisboa region DOCs
Wide range of native and international varieties - Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Arinto - Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir Alenquer DOC - eastern side of mountains - Full bodied Touriga Nacional and Aragonez Bucelas DOC - eastern side of mountains - high acid wines from Arinto (must be min 75% Arinto) Colares DOC - coastal region - cool, foggy - ungrafted old bush vines on phylloxera-free sandy soils - atracting producers to make fresh, high acid red and whites from local grapes
49
Lisboa Wine business + producers
Most of the production comes from Lisboa VR - 'Lisboa' is more recognisable term than names of the sub-regions Significant proportion of wine sold without GI
50
Península de Setúbal
Mediterranean climate Mostly flat and sandy Mountains in south provide cooling influence from altitude - clay-limestone soils Palmela DOC - mainly red wines - must be min 67% Castelão - deep, full-bodied, red berry fruit, often oaked - ageworthy on warm sandy plains, lighter on limestone slopes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah Setúbal DOC - sweet fortified wines from Moscatel Península de Setúbal VR - allows more flexibility
51
Tejo - general
Tejo river runs through it In the past production was focused on volume - fertile riverbanks = high yields - New plantings of higher quality grapes (after vine pull scheme) Name of both DOC and larger VR - both allow a range of local and international varieties - Trincadeira, Castelão, Aragonez - Mostly fruity, early drinking
52
Tejo - climate & soil
Mediterranean climate North - slightly more rainfall - clay-limestone - mostly reds Around the river: - fertile soils - vigor needs to be managed - mostly whites South - hottest, driest - poor sandy soil - reds and whites