Ch. 21 – Portugal

Question 1

Portugal growing environment

topography and soil

Answer 1

Rolling hills and plains in the south

Soils
- significant variations
- Mountain regions - schist and granite
- South - more variation - clay, limestone, sand
- fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks (Tejo)

Question 2

Portugal climate

Answer 2

Strongly infuenced by Atlantic (cool rainy weather)

More continental climate inland
- protection from mountain ranges
- warmer, drier, south

Hazards
- drought (especially inland)
- extreme weather events - hail, storms, wildfires
- Wet weather in coastal regions - fungal diseases
- Esca and European grapevine moth

Question 3

Portugal viticulture

Answer 3

A lot of high-producing vineyards on fertile alluvial soils (Tejo) have been grubbed up, thanks to vine pull scheme

Training:
- cordon or replacement-cane and VSP trellised
- significant number of old bush vines (Douro, Alentejo)
- mixed vineyards, producing ‘field blends’

Irrigation allowed
- most do not need to apply for authorization
- Generally only if lack of water threatens quality
- cannot be used for boosting yield

Low proportion of certified organic vinayards
- some practice organic but do not certify, due to cost

Question 4

Grape varieties in Portugal

Answer 4

Growing tendency to return to local varieties
Majority of wines are blends

Aragonez/Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca
Touriga Nacional
Fernão Pires/Maria Gomes (white)
Castelão
Trincadeira
Baga
Loureiro (white)
Arinto/Pedernã (white)
Roupeiro
Alicante Bouschet

Question 5

Portugal winemaking

Answer 5

Mostly blends

Admission to EU started large modernization
- protective techniques
- temperature control, stainless, de-stemming
- French oak (primary type of oak)

Traditional techniques
- large Portugese oak and Brazilian hardwood toneis (3,000-6,000L)
- more restrained use of oak and larger format
- new foudres (around 2,000-2,500L)
- chestnut barrels

Lagares - regularly practiced

Fermenting wine in clay vessels

Pre-fermentation skin contact for Portugese whites
- growth in natural wines

Question 6

Portugese wine law

Answer 6

as member of EU, follows PDO and PGI system

DOC/DOP (denominação de origem controlada/protegida)
- all wines must be officially tested, tasted and approved

VR (Vinho Regional)
- often permit international varieties

Vinho
- no PGI or PDO status

Question 7

Wine business in Portugal general

Answer 7

Grape growing represents 35% of total national agricultural output (highest in the world)

Land of small holdings
- in the past, most growers sold to negociants or co-ops
- Sogrape - largest producer in Portugal
- increasing number of growers produce their own wine (Quinta)

Trend of small winemakers who do not own land, who source their grapes from overlooked regions or native varieties

Major exporter
- steady growth in volume and value of unfortified wine
- Angola, Germany
- used to have a captive market in Portuguese colonies like Angola

Increase in domestic sales due to significant increase in tourism and growth in average income

Question 8

Portugese wine regions

Answer 8

Vinho Verde (Minho VR)

Douro

Dão

Bairrada

Alentejo
+ Vinho de Talha DOC

Lisboa
- Alenquer DOC
- Bucelas DOC
- Arinto DOC
- Colares DOC

Peninsula de Setubal
- Palmela DOC
- Setubal DOC

Tejo DOC / VR

Question 9

Vinho Verde

topography

Answer 9

Atlantic to the west
River Minho to the north
Douro to the south
Mountains to the east

Mostly granite bedrock with shallow topsoil of granite and sandy texture
- good drainage
- low fertility
- fertilizers commonly used

Question 10

Vinho Verde

climate and viticulture

Answer 10

Moderate maritime climate
- Atlantic coast
- network of rivers funnelling Atlantic winds inland
- land gradually raises inland (soils become poorer)
- inland more continental (warmer, drier)
- high rainfall
- marked vintage variation

Fungal disease problems
- rot, mildew
- vines traditionally trained up trees for circulation
- single or double Guyot with VSP or Lyre
- importance of summer pruning to open canopy

Question 11

Vinho Verde grape varieties

Answer 11

Large change from red to white dominated
- in the 1960s, 80% was red
- now 80% white

LAPAT

Loureiro (#1)
Pedernã
Alvarinho
Avesso
Trajadura
Vinhao (most planted black.. cherry and high acid)

Question 12

Loureiro

Answer 12

Loureira in Spain

Mostly grown by the coast (Vinho Verde)

Mid ripening

Med+ acidity, citrus, pear, floral, herbal notes

Question 13

Pedernã

Answer 13

Local name for Arinto in Vinho Verde

More neutral in flavor than the other varieties in Vinho Verde, but provides high acidity

Question 14

Alvarinho

Answer 14

Citrus, peach, sometimes tropical flavours

Med+ body, med+ to high acidity

Admitted as named grape variety on the label since 2016

Question 15

Avesso

Answer 15

late ripening
- can fail to ripen unless very warm and dry
- tends to be grown inland
- especially in the south, e.g. Baião

Lower in acidity, relatively full bodied

Citrus and stone fruit

Question 16

Trajadura

Answer 16

(Treixadura in Rias Baixas)

low in acidity with apple and peach flavours

Usually blended with more acidic varieries

Question 17

Winemaking in Vinho Verde

Answer 17

Inexpensive wines
- protective winemaking
- cool fermentation
- bottled shortly after fermentation
- carbon dioxide often added to give light spritz
- low alcohol, high acidity, apple, citrus, peach
- some may have residual sugar
- usually made by co-ops

Higher priced wines
- Mostly old oak for ferment and/or maturation
- may age on lees
- some use ambient yeast
- no spritz
- usually made by smaller boutique producers

Question 18

Vinho Verde legal requirements

Answer 18

Name of sub-region may appear on the label
- min alcohol of 9%
- 8% without sub-region

Monção and Melgaço (single varietal Alvarinho)
- lower max yields
- min alcohol of 11.5%
- only sub-region able to label single varietal Alvarinho
- other regions must declassify to Minho VR to label single varietal Alvarinho
- other regions can label Alvarinho (min 30% of blend) along other varieties of the blend

Question 19

Wine business in Vinho Verde
- Producers
- export
- market composition

Answer 19

Extremely fragmented
- average holding less than .1ha
- most deliver to co-ops or merchants

Producer
- Quinta de Soalheiro

Gradually growing exports (35%)
- Germany, USA

Question 20

Douro climate

(also in consideration of sub-regions)

+ soil

Answer 20

Follows Douro river
- number of aspects and microclimates

Serra do Marão (west)
- shielding from Atlantic
- warm continental climate

3 sub-regions
- Baixo Corgo - coolest, wettest
- Cima Corgo - warmer, drier
- Douro Superior - hot and arid

Schist bedrock, low organic matter and stony texture
- stores little water
- splits into vertical layers
- many hillsides are not set up for irrigation (irrigation is allowed but grower must notify IVDP)

Question 21

Douro grape varieties

Answer 21

Usually blends
Similar to Port production

Touriga Nacional
Touriga Franca
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo)
Tinta Barroca
Tinta Cão
Sousão

Viosinho
Rabigato
Gouveio
Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains)

Question 22

Douro viti hazards

Answer 22

Late spring frost in high altitude vineyards

Wet weather during early summer

Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot
- canopy management, fungicides

Fertilizers may be necessary

Lack of labour for harvest

Question 23

Touriga Franca

Answer 23

late ripening
- suitable on warmest sites (low altitude, south facing)

Tight bunches of thick-skinned grapes
- relative resistance to fungal diseases

Can be vigorous
- needs to be managed
- summer pruning

Retains acidity well

Contributes colour, tannins and acidity
Juicy red and black fruit, floral aroma

Question 24

Touriga Nacional

Answer 24

Mid-ripening

Thick-skinned grapes
- deep colour
- high tannins

Retains acidity well

Can suffer from excessive vigor
- needs to be managed

High level of color and tannins
- black fruit and floral
- long ageing potential

Question 25

Tinta Roriz

Answer 25

(Tempranillo in Spain, Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal)

early ripening
- best grown on relatively cool sites
- can suffer from water stress

Contributes body, colour to the blend

Capable of high yields, but has to be limited

Question 26

Sousão

Answer 26

Thick-skinned berries
- deep colour
- ability to retain high acidity

brings freshness to the blend

Question 27

Grape varieties for white wine in Douro and their characters

Answer 27

Viosinho
- full bodied, floral, stone fruit
- can lack acidity

Rabigato
- high acidity, citrus, floral

Gouveio (Godello)
- medium+ acidity, citrus, stone fruit

Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains)
- enhances intensity of aroma in blend

White grapes tend to be planted on coolest sites (e.g. high altitude, north-facing, or located in the west)

Question 28

Douro DOC winemaking

Answer 28

over 70% red

Often blend of sites to reduce vintage variation

Sometimes field blend of old vine fruit (vinhas velhas)
- all Port houses make dry wine
- best: Prats & Symington

Usually destemmed (additional tannin rarely needed)

Stainless with temp control
- relatively cool temps for reds
- greater tannin control
- some producers still use lagares (or may start ferment there)
- easier to monitor extraction level than in closed tank

Post-ferment maceration for premium wine (soften tannin)
- traditionally matured in large Portuguese oak vessels
- today, mainly French oak barriques
- trend towards less new oak and larger vessels

Inexpensive whites made protectively
- often contain Moscatel

Premium whites made from old vines and tend to be aged in oak (new or old)
- very good or outstanding

Question 29

Wine business Douro DOC

Answer 29

Port is 60% of production

VR Duriense can be used by producers using non-local varieties
- produces small volumes

Many co-ops (inexpensive wines)
- many premium wines made by the Port houses, often from select plots

Beneficio controls prices and volumes of Port
- does not touch Douro wines

Price of grapes for Douro DOC are below Porto DOC
- in years of surplus prices drop even further (often below production costs)

35% exported (Brazil, Canada)

Question 30

Dão DOC

climate

Soils and hazards

Answer 30

surrounded by mountains
- protected from cool maritime weather (west)
- protected from arid conditions (east, south)

Mediterranean climate
- relatively high rainfall, mainly in autumn, winter
- traditionally bush vines, but now VSP

Number of hills, valleys, mountain ranges
- varied altitude and aspects (most at 400-500m)
- pine and eucalyptus forests

Weathered granite soils
- low nutrients
- free draining
- constaining vigour
- water stress can be problem

Hail during summer, spring frosts below mountains

Question 31

Dão DOC Grape varieties and winemaking

Answer 31

around 80% red wine

Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alfrocheiro
- often blended
- often less full bodied than Douro, with fresher flavors and more acidity
- used to undergo long maceration and maturation (lacking in fruit)
- now, shorter maceration and aging is common (new oak is typical, but trend is for less)
- good to outstanding

Encruzado
- key variety for white wines
- medium (medium+) acidity, can be full bodied, lemon, peach, floral
- neutral ferment or fermentation/maturation in oak
- sometimes lees stirring
- capable of ageing well

Other white varieries:
- Bical
- Cercial

Question 32

Jaen

Answer 32

Mencia in Spain
(grown in Dão)

moderate acidity, raspberry, blackberry

Sometimes made by carbonic maceration

Question 33

Alfrocheiro

Answer 33

Medium tannin and body

Strawberry and blackberry

Usually made in a soft fruity style

Question 34

Wine business in Dão

Answer 34

area of small vineyard holdings

Sogrape led the way in producing higher quality wines at all price points

Growing number of quality-minded estates and merchants
- Vinha Paz

Only 15-20% exported (Brazil, Canada)

Question 35

Bairrada

climate and soils

viticulture

Answer 35

Maritime climate
- generous rainfall, mainly in spring and fall (problematic for late-ripening)

Fertile alluvial soils in west

Limestone-clay slopes in the south

Traditionally, high-trained individually staked bush vines
- recent plantings are trellised (Guyot)

Question 36

Baga

Answer 36

Black grape variety dominating Bairrada region

High acidity and tannins, medium body
Cranberry, cherry, plum

Can be astringent when young, but softer and more complex with bottle ageing.

Previously grown at high yields
- lacked concentration
- much was used for Mateus Rose
- now, greater understanding of how to treat it in the vineyard and winery

Late ripening and productive
- careful site selection to ensure full ripeness
- south-facing slopes
- best on limestone-clay (best balance of drainage vs. water retention)
- photosynthesis can stop in drought
- light-colored limestone soils reflect light onto vines
- green harvesting may be carried out

Question 37

Bairrada winemaking

Answer 37

Baga traditionally fermented on stems
- long ageing required
- now wines are de-stemmed (but some using a proportion of whole clusters)

Vessels range from stainless steel to concrete to lagares

Maturation typically in large French oak barrels
- some use traditional Portuguese oak toneis
- others use foudres

Question 38

Other red grape varieties in Bairrada

Answer 38

Mainly Baga (some are blends of Baga)

Touriga Nacional
Alfrocheiro
Jaen
Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot

Question 39

Baga classico requirements

Answer 39

min 50% Baga
min 85% of any blend Baga, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Camarate

Question 40

White wines in Bairrada

+ descriptions of varieties

Answer 40

Maria Gomes (Fernao Pires in other parts of Portugal)
- early ripening
- can produce high yields
- citrus, floral aroma
- loses acidity fast (otherwide med+)

Bical
- early ripening, peach, tropical
- loses acidity fast (otherwise med+)

Arinto and Cercial
- may be used to blend in for acidity

Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay

Inexpensive wines from sandy soils, fermented in steel and released early

Mid-priced and premium sourced from clay-limestone soils and fermented/matured in oak

Question 41

Wine business in Bairrada

Answer 41

Cooperatives and merchants are common

Also produces traditional method sparkling wines

VR Beira Atlantico can be used
- boundaries extend beyond Bairrada DOC

Question 42

Alentejo DOC

climate

Soils

Training system

Answer 42

Algarve’s mountains to the south

Mediterranean climate
- hot, dry summers
- low to moderate rainfall
- irrigation widely used

Mostly plains and gentle slopes, with some mountains

8 non-contiguous sub-regions

Alentejano VR
- used by producers outside the 8 sub-regions

Wide range of soils
- granite, schist, limestone with varying texture

Mostly double cordon with VSP

Question 43

DOC for aphorae fermented wines in Alentejo

Answer 43

Vinho de Talha DOC

Talha = amphora

Question 44

Alentejo’s most famous sub-region

Answer 44

Portalegre
- in the north, where it’s less hot and dry
- over 800m high
- fresher, higher acidities
- unlike most of Alentejo, vineyards tend to be small

Question 45

Alentejo grape varieties and winemaking

Answer 45

Mostly blends (75% red)

Reds range from fruity and early-drinking to super-premium and age-worthy

Aragonez
Alicante Bouschet (color, acidity, tannins)
Trincadeira (susceptible to rot.. contributes red and black berry)

Touriga Nacional (adds tannin and acidity)
Syrah
Cabernet Sauvignon
Petit Verdot (increasing)

Whites can be steel-fermented or oak-fermented for longer aging

Roupeiro (retains acidity well.. citrus and stone fruit)
Antão Vaz (drought tolerant.. can lack acidity)
Arinto (Pedernã in Vinho Verde)

Chardonnay
Viognier
Alvarinho

Question 46

Alentejo wine business

Answer 46

Accounts for 40% of all domestic sales in Portugal
20% of total Portugese export (Brazil, Angola)

Area of larger holdings
- well suited to cost-effective, high-volume mechanized viticulture (dry, flat, warm)
- relatively young vineyards

Strongly focused on tourism
- cellar doors
- proximity to Lisbon
- often producing range of other products (ham, olive oil)

Question 47

Lisboa

Climate and topography

Answer 47

Serra de Montejunto splits the region into two areas
- west influenced by Atlantic
- wet and windy, clay-limestone soils (lighter styles)
- east is more protected, riper fuller wines

Question 48

Lisboa region DOCs

Answer 48

Wide range of native and international varieties
- Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Arinto
- Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir

Alenquer DOC
- eastern side of mountains
- Full bodied Touriga Nacional and Aragonez

Bucelas DOC
- eastern side of mountains
- high acid wines from Arinto (must be min 75% Arinto)

Colares DOC
- coastal region
- cool, foggy
- ungrafted old bush vines on phylloxera-free sandy soils
- atracting producers to make fresh, high acid red and whites from local grapes

Question 49

Lisboa Wine business

+ producers

Answer 49

Most of the production comes from Lisboa VR
- ‘Lisboa’ is more recognisable term than names of the sub-regions

Significant proportion of wine sold without GI

Question 50

Península de Setúbal

Answer 50

Mediterranean climate

Mostly flat and sandy

Mountains in south provide cooling influence from altitude
- clay-limestone soils

Palmela DOC
- mainly red wines
- must be min 67% Castelão
- deep, full-bodied, red berry fruit, often oaked
- ageworthy on warm sandy plains, lighter on limestone slopes
- Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah

Setúbal DOC
- sweet fortified wines from Moscatel

Península de Setúbal VR
- allows more flexibility

Question 51

Tejo

• general

Answer 51

Tejo river runs through it

In the past production was focused on volume
- fertile riverbanks = high yields
- New plantings of higher quality grapes (after vine pull scheme)

Name of both DOC and larger VR
- both allow a range of local and international varieties
- Trincadeira, Castelão, Aragonez
- Mostly fruity, early drinking

Question 52

Tejo

• climate & soil

Answer 52

Mediterranean climate

North
- slightly more rainfall
- clay-limestone
- mostly reds

Around the river:
- fertile soils
- vigor needs to be managed
- mostly whites

South
- hottest, driest
- poor sandy soil
- reds and whites