Ch. 20 – Spain Flashcards
Historically important Spanish winemakers
Marques de Murrieta, Marques de Riscal
- exile in Bordeaux during civil wars in the 19th century
- new techniques brought back, including barriques
Miguel Torres (1960s)
- French and German varieties, trellising
- temperature control, laboratories established
Phylloxera in Spain
came in very late stage when remedies were known
- Spain supplied wine to Phylloxera hit France beforehand
Many regions were unaffected thanks to sandy soils
- Toro, Rueda
- ungrafted vines
Spain climate
Generally warm, can vary markedly
- extensive coastline, mountains, plateau
North west
- influenced by Atlantic - maritime
- high rainfall
North, North-east
- sheltered from Atlantic by mountains
- continental with some maritime or mediterranean influence
South and east
- moderated mediterranean climate
Meseta plateau (central Spain)
- continental
- 600-900m moderates the heat
Spain vineyard management
Many old bush vines planted at low density
- naturally low yields
Irrigation is permitted (regulated by regions)
- in some cases, only allowed for young vines or extreme drought
- in others, allowed during early part of season but never during ripening
Heavy storms with temperatures raising quickly afterwards
- risk of mildew
- in some regions frost is a problem (continental)
Many producers farm organically (few are certified)
- don’t believe in raising cost by certification
Very small average vineyard holdings
- limited mechanization
Size of Spain’s vineyard plantings (world’s rating)
World’s largest vineyard plantings (nearly 1 million ha)
- but only 3rd largest wine producer (Italy, France)
Many bush vines and low density
Airén
Central Spain - Castilla-La Mancha
Inexpensive neutral white wines
Much is distilled into Brandy de Jerez
Tempranillo
Medium to high yields
- quality focused growers reduce yields
Early ripening
- best in warm regions with some cooling influence
Macabeo
Mainly Catalunya
- both still and Cava
Main white variety in Rioja (called Viura)
Many inexpensive but also premium examples
- fermented and aged in oak
Monastrell
Mourvedre
Predominantly Valencia and Murcia
- well suited to Mediterranean climate
- needs heat late in season - late ripening
Winemaking for youthful fruity red white and rose in Spain
Made protectively
Inert gases
Cultured yeast
Fining and/or filtration
Many undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
Winemaking in Spain
Youthful, fruity styles
- Stainless steel with temp control
- Inert gases
- Cultured yeast
- May undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
Stainless steel with temperature control also common for premium wines
- some use concrete, eggs, amphorae
Oak maturation common for reds and whites (mid price and above)
- Whites may be fermented in oak
- Unoaked whites may be aged on lees
General ageing rules of wines in Spain
National ageing legislation specifies the minimum aging and minimum oak ageing for Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva
- individual DOs may be stricter
- criticized for being too prescriptive but also not prescriptive enough
- implies a quality hierarchy, but there are no quality requirements set for these categories
- age and origin of oak not specified
- very little indication of style or quality
The oak vessel MUST be of a maximum 330 litres
Many producers don’t use these labelling terms
- larger barrels
- not meeting minimum time
- don’t believe the terms will benefit marketing
Mostly used in Rioja or RIbera del Duero
- Rarely used in Priorat
Aging requirements in Spain (table)
Roble
Labelling term for oak
- no minimum duration
- usually less than the requirements for Crianza
Joven
Term for wines released young
- often with no or minimal oak
Oak of choice in Spain
American
- strong trading relationship with America
- relatively cheap compared to French oak
Use of French oak has grown
- Penedes, Priorat, Ribera del Duero
Some use both American and French
Rose winemaking in Spain
Much is inexpensive and sold in bulk
Better understanding of vineyard management and harvesting times, improvements in winemaking and focus on market trends
Leading away from over-ripe jammy wines
Classically deep colour (pale colours increased in recent years)
- longer skin contact
- mainly steel
- bottled soon after ferment
- may be matured and stored in oak or stored on lees for texture
Some make a traditional style from a mix of black and white grapes that are macerated, pressed, and fermented together (Bodegas Lopez de Heredia)
Wine law and regulations in Spain
Labelling terms
DO and DOCa/DOQ (denominación de origen)
- Rioja and Priorat are the only DOCa/DOQ
(denominación de origen calificada)
VP (Vino de Pago)
- small numbers of single estates with high reputations
- estates may use only their own grapes, vinified and matured on their estate
- within PDO category
VT (Vino de la Tierra)
- PGI wines
Vino
- without geographical indication
Set and controlled by Consejo Regulador:
- max yields
- permitted varieties
- vineyard practices (irrigation)
- winemaking practises (ageing)
- bottling requirements
Requirements to apply for DOQ/DOCa status
DO must have been established for a min of 10 years
All wines must be bottled at producer’s property
Various quality regulations
- including tasting assessment by external panel
Wine business in Spain
Many producers with tiny landholdings
- dominated by cooperatives
- negociants also common
- Wine estates produce small volumes
Large businesses
- Pernod Ricard Groupe
- Miguel Torres SA
Low domestic consumption
- trend toward higher quality wines with DO status
World’s largest exporter in terms of volume
- average price per liter is the lowest of large exporters
- world’s largest exporter of bulk wine (55% of exports)
Handful of super premium wines
- not a large investment market
Main exports
- Germany, China, USA (high value)
Wine DOs in Galicia
Rías Baixas DO
Ribeiro DO
Ribeira Sacra DO
Valdeorras DO
Monterrei DO
Rías Baixas DO climate
Strong maritime climate
- high rainfall throughout year
- problem of fungal diseases and rain before harvest
- significant vintage variation
Soil:
- sand over granite (free-draining)
Rías Baixas DO grape varieties
Albarino (95%)
Loureira (citrus, pear, floral)
Treixadura (low acid, apple, peach)
Caino Blanco
Souson (black)
Caino Tinto (black)
Rías Baixas DO subzones
5 non-contiguous sub-zones
Val do Salnes
- greatest number of plantings and wineries
- directly on the coast
- coolest and wettest
- high acidity
O Rosal
- along river Mino on border with Portugal (Vinho Verde)
- often blends of Albarino, Loureira, Treixadura, and Caino Blanco
- south-facing sites
- warmer than Val do Salnes
Condado do Tea
- warmer, riper style, more peach, lower acidity
Ribeira do Ulla
- inexpensive wines
Soutomaior
- smallest
Rías Baixas DO wine business
25% exported (US)
Co-ops are dominant, due to very small vineyards
- Bodegas Martin Codax is the largest
Pazo de Senorans (high quality)
Rías Baixas DO general
In Galicia
Replanted with hybrids and Palomino after phylloxera
Incentives to grow indigenous varieties and modernize equipment led to significant improvements in quality
- quick rise in popularity since 90s
Albarino
mostly in Rias Baixas
Well suited to damp climate
- thick skins (less prone to rot)
Early to mid-ripening
High in acidity, medium- (medium) body, medium alcohol, aroma of lemon, grapefruit, peach, sometimes floral
Usually made as single varietal
- sometimes blended with Loureira, Treixadura, Caino Blanco
Trellising in Rias Baixas
Pergola (parral) remains popular
- trained high to promote circulations under canopy
- often using granite supports due to humidity
VSP now common for bigger producers, to allow mechanization
Winemaking in Rias Baixas
Generally protective
- few hours of skin contact
- cool ferment in steel
- may have malo in cool years, to reduce malic acid
- more expensive wines are often stored on lees (sobre lias) for 1-2 years
- few premium producers ferment in oak (ranging from large old oak to small, new barrels)
Ribeiro DO
In Galicia
Maritime climate (more sheltered than Rias Biaxas)
- High rainfall
Mainly white wines
- most planted is Treixadura (expensive wines often oak aged)
- single varietal or blended with other Galician varieties
Ribeira Sacra DO
In Galicia
Mainly continental climate with maritime influence depending upon exposure
Along two river valleys (Mino and Sil)
- vineyards on steep, stony slopes with good drainage and that reflect heat
- extremely labor intensive
Mencia is the most planted variety
- mainly fresh and early-drinking
Valdeorras DO
Easternmost DO in Galicia
Continental climate but with plenty of rainfall
- vineyards at 300m altitude
Quality-focused production of Godello
- citrus, stone fruit, herbal, wet stone, med+ acidity
- premium wines often fermented and/or aged in oak
Monterrei DO
Southernmost DO in Galicia, on Portuguese border
Continental climate
- sheltered from ocean by Sierra de Larouca mountains
- hot summers
- relatively low rainfall
Mostly inexpensive bulk wine
- some good Mencia (riper style than Ribeira Sacra)
- some Godello
Castilla y Leon climate
Continental with maritime influence in in west
Made up of high altitude plateau (northern part of the meseta)
- mountains to the north and south
Castilla y Leon wine regions
Bierzo DO
Toro DO
Ribera del Duero DO
Rueda DO
Castilla y Leon VT
Bierzo DO climate and varieties
+ requirements for red wines
Continental climate with occasional maritime influence
- mountains on three sides (open to the west)
- adequate rainfall
- marked vintage variation (wet vs dry years)
Dominated by Mencia (75%) and some Godello
Min 70% of Mencia in any red wine blend
- can be blended with Alicante Bouschet
- most are 100% Mencia
Mencia
Early to mid-ripening
Can lose acidity fast as sugar accumulates (high alcohol if picked late)
Ranges from light bodied to concentrated wines with higher tannin
Med+ to high acidity
Bierzo DO soils, topography
Flat plains and lower slopes:
- fertile soils
- higher yields
- sometimes carbonic or semi-carbonic
- inexpensive to mid-priced
Best vineyards on hillsides
- 500-850m
- good drainage
- poor shallow slate soils
- cooling influence
- high diurnal range
- old, bush vines
- Often matured in oak
Bierzo DO wine business
Growth was prompted by investment from producers from Priorat, attracted by slate soils similar to those in Priorat
Very small plots
- many sell to co-ops
- hand-harvesting is the norm
Most wineries have been established in the last 10-15 years
In 2017, the Consejo Regulador created a new classification system to designate single village and single vineyard wines, similar to the system in Priorat
- lower max yields
Toro DO
Requirements for wines
Red wines must be min 75% Tinta de Toro
- remainder Garnacha
- max 15% alcohol
Rose
- Tinta de Toro or Garnacha
White
- Malvasia or Verdejo
Synonym for Tempranillo in Toro
Tinta de Toro
but with thicker skins due to intensity of sun
- greater colour and tannin