Ch. 15-19 – Italy Flashcards
General - winemaking in Italy
Influence from Germany in white winemaking
- stainless ferment, controlled temp
Influence from France in red winemaking
- new French oak (Super Tuscans)
- Traditionally large Slavonian oak - oxidation but no new oak flavours
- old oak and large vessels are now coming back
- wine from local varieties does not have new oak flavors
Wine laws and regulations in Italy
DOC
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata
DOCG
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
- stricter rules
IGT
- Indicazione Geografia Tipica
- PGI (corresponding to Vin de Pays)
- wines from defined but larger area
- wider choice of varieties and styles
- typically higher yields
Vino
- replacement for ‘vino da tavola’
Legally defined labelling terms:
Classico:
- wines made exclusively from grapes grown within historical area of DOC or DOCG
Superiore
- Wines with higher minimum alcohol level
- typically additional 0.5%
Riserva
- Submitted to certain ageing period
- at least 2 years for red and 1 year for white
- some DOC/DOCG specify ageing must be in oak
General Wine business in Italy
One of two largest wine producing countries
Average size of vineyard is small (less than 2 ha)
- many cooperatives
- e.g. Caviro (10% of wine by volume)
Local wine consumption is in long-term decline
40% exported (about half Prosecco)
Trentino-Alto Adige in general
At foothills of Alps
- vineyards at lower slopes
Both international and local varieties
Mostly single-varietal wines
Trentino - growing environment and viticulture
Moderate continental climate with cooling influences
- mountains provide protection from north cold winds
- moderating influence of Lake Garda
- heat builds up on valley floor
Wide diurnal range
- cool air descending from mountains
- higher acidity
- longer growing season
Historically pergola trained vines for high yields
- now trellised vineyards
- hand-harvesting on steeper slopes
Grapes allowed in Trentino DOC
and max yields
75% white
High max yields
50% Pinot Grigio & Chardonnay
Muller-Thurgau, Gewurztraminer, Moscato Rosa, Nosiola
Merlot, Marzemino, Lagrein
Teroldego
Vigorous
Mid-late ripening
Historically pergola trained for high yields
- now Guyot
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, black cherry
Best quality from Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
- sandy and gravelly soils
Cannot be labelled as Trentino DOC
- but as Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Marzemino
Vigorous
Mid-late ripening
Older vines usually on pergolas, younger vines trained as spurred cordons
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, red cherry
Best wines from Ziresi subzone of Trentino DOC
- full sun exposure
- rich calcareous/clay and basalt
Lagrein
Vigorous
Mid-late ripening
Needs warm site with plenty of sun to fully ripen
Bitterness and harshness on finish is addressed by shorter maceration and oak ageing
Used in rose (deep colour)
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, ripe berry fruit
Moscato Rosa
Rose-scented sweet wines
- appassimento method or late harvested
- premium priced
Nosiola
Small volume of distinctive white wine with light hazelnut flavour (from the fruit)
Also made in semi-dried version
- Vino Santo
Winemaking in Trentino
Whites
- soft pressing
- ferment in steel
- low temperatures
- briefly aged on lees
- released early
- some top whites may see some oak, possibly new
Red wines
- mostly fresh and fruity
- maceration on skins during ferment 5-7 days
- moderate temp
- briefly aged in steel or old oak
Premium reds
- period of maceration after ferment (additional 7-14 days)
- warm ferment
- aged in small oak (small proportion of new)
Trentino Wine Law (5 styles)
Bianco: min 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco
Rosso: single variety or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenere and Merlot
Single varietal wines: at least 85% of named variety
Two variety blends
Rose
Trentino Wine business
Many small growers
- co-ops make 80%
- Cavit alone makes 60%
High proportion of production is DOC, but questionable if Trentino DOC promotes high quality (e.g. yields are very high)
- some producers choose not to use the DOC
Good penetration in restaurant sector in Italy
Alto Adige viticulture
Training and management
Traditional pergola (usually high volume)
- now Guyot
Leaf picking - better exposure of grapes to sunshine
Steeper slopes must be worked by hand
Alto Adige climate
mild Alpine continental climate
- protected from cold winds by mountains to the north
- 300-700m
- warm air currents in valleys
- 300 days of sunshine
- wide diurnal range
- sufficient rainfall (concern at harvest)
Soils in Alto Adige
Great variety, allowing a range of varieties to be planted
- volcanic
- quartz
- mica
- limestone
Growing zones (not accepted as sub-zones) in Alto-Adige
Bassa Atesina
- south
- warmer
- all varieties except Schiava
Oltradige
- Lake Caldaro area for Schiava
- Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (valleys)
- Pinot Noir and white varieties (higher altitudes)
Alto-Adige grape varieties
Schiava
Pinot Grigio
Gewurztraminer
Chardonnay
Pinot Bianco
Lagrein
Pinot Noir
Sauvignon Blanc
Schiava
Typically grown on pergola (to cope with natural vigour)
Pale ruby
Perfumed violet and strawberry
Med to light body and low tannins
Santa Magdalena DOC
- Schiava can be blended with up to 15% of Lagrein
- deeper colour and fuller body
Winemaking in Alto-Adige
Mostly preserving fruity aroma
- fermented at low temp with selected yeast
- aged in steel
- may be kept on fine lees for 4-6 months
(premium for up to a year)
Some top whites and reds are aged in French barriques
Alto-Adige DOC
98% is DOC
Max yields are slightly lower than Trentino DOC
Bianco
- min 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio
- must be a blend
Single varietal wines
- 85% of named variety
Two variety blends
Also possible to label with one of six sub-zones
DOC for Schiava
Lago di Caldaro DOC
Wine business in Alto-Adige
Typically very small vineyards
Cooperatives are very important (70%)
- also produce high quality wines
- pay high prices to growers to encourage quality
- Cantina Kaltern
Wines are sold principally in Italy
- much is sold in the region itself (tourism)
- important in hospitality sector
Export market: Germany, USA
Promotional body: Consortium Alto-Adige Wines
- Sudtirol logo on the capsule
Veneto climate
Warm and moderately continental climate
- moderate rainfall
- cooling infuence - altitude, breezes from Lake Garda
- Flat plains affected by fog and humidity from River Adige and Po
- problem with fungal diseases and Esca
Plains:
- Fertile soils
- high yields
- Veneto IGP
Hillside
- better drainage and poorer soil
Veneto - Soave terroir
Two distinct parts:
Foothills of the Alps to the north
- limestone, clay, basalt
- naturally cool soils
- slow down ripening
- full flavor ripeness, high acidity
Flat plains near river Adige to the south
- medium acidity, lower quality
- intended to be drunk young
Garganega
Vigorous
Late ripening
Traditionally pergola trained (now can be trellised)
Sensitive to winter cold, mildew and botrytis
Capable of producing high quality even at high yields on good sites
high acidity, med body, med intensity (lemon, apple/pear, white pepper, in warm vintage- stone fruits)
Usually no oak (some high-end is oaked)
Honey, almond w/ age
Soave winemaking
High quality
- short cold maceration
- cool ferment
- few months on lees
- few ferment/age in oak
Appellations for Soave
Soave DOC
Soave Classico DOC
Soave Superiore DOCG
Recioto di Soave DOCG
Soave DOC requirements
Min 70% Garganega
- with Verdicchio & Chardonnay
Max yields are very high
Can be sold very young
(80% of all Soave)
Soave Classico DOC requirements
grapes from hilly Classico region
Same varieties as Soave DOC
Marginally lower yields than Soave DOC
(20% of all Soave)
Soave Superiore DOCG requirements
grapes from delimited hilly zone
Same varieties as Soave DOC
Lower yields than Soave DOC or Soave Classico DOC
Can be sold 1 year after harvest
Tiny production
Recioto di Soave DOCG requirements
Same location and rules as Soave Superiore DOCG, but the grapes are semi-dried (appassimento)
Max yields are much lower
Rich floral, honeyed, sweet wines with high balancing acidity
Soave wine business
Region of small growers and large bottlers
Largest cooperative - Cantina di Soave (50% of production)
Losing market share to Pinot Grigio
- 80% exported (Germany, UK)
Producer: Pieropan
Soave Consorzio
- re-positioning Soave as a high-quality wine
- classification of single vineyards as ‘cru’ vineyards based on soil, aspect, elevation
Valpolicella terroir
Foothills in north
- Limestone and clay or volcanic soils
- cool soils
- slow down ripening, more acidity
South
- gravel and sand
- warmer
- fruitier, less acidity, less concentration
Grape varieties in Valpolicella
Corvina
Corvinone
Rondinella
Molinara
Corvina
Vigorous, high yields
Mid to late ripening
Thick skins (suitable for drying)
Prone to downy mildew, botrytis, esca
Sensitive to drought and sunburn
Well suited to pergola traning
- does not carry fruit on first few buds
- shade prevents sunburn
- air circulations lowers disease pressure
- it can also grow on trellises
Mostly blended
- Violet, red cherry, red plum, herbal note
- Low to med tannins and high acidity
Corvinone
Does not ripen uniformly and fruit must be picked over bunch by bunch
Good blending partner to Corvina as it adds tannins
Red cherry
Dries well (for appassimento)
Rondinella
Reliable and productive, suitable for wide range of soils
Good disease resistance (good for drying)
Neutral wines, light simple cherry
Accumulates sugar very fast (useful for Recioto)
Molinara
high yielding
Pale color has led to a decrease in plantings
Contributes acidity, red-berry fruit, lightness
Valpolicella winemaking
Early consumption
- ferment at mid-range temps to retain primary fruit
- short maceration 5-7 days
- aged in steel or large neutral oak for 6-8 months
Appassimento method
Grapes are stored for 3-4 months in well-aerated lofts
Grapes may be picked early at 11% potential alcohol
- maintains acidity
- ensures healthy bunches
Must be checked regularly and rotated
Humidity, temperature and air movements are controlled
Grapes lose around one third of their weight
- higher level of sugar, acidity, anthocyanin, tannins, flavor
- more glycerol is produced (softer, fuller mouthfeel)
Blend requirements for all DOC and DOCG in Valpolicella
Corvina and/or Corvinone must be 45-95% of the blend
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Possible DOC and DOCGs for Valpolicella
Valpolicella DOC
Valpolicella Classico DOC
Valpolicella Valpantena DOC
- all above can be Superiore
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Valpolicella DOC
Requirements and expression
max yields are high
Typically made with short maceration
Bright purple tints in youth
Red cherry, rose
No oak flavours, low to med tannin, med (med+)
Valpolicella Classico DOC requirements
Grapes must come from hilly Classico zone
Greater concentration than Valpolicella DOC
Valpolicella Valpantena DOC requirements
Grapes from Valpantena valley
(Valpolicella) Superiore
Optional specification for:
- Valpolicella DOC
- Valpolicella Classico DOC
- Valpolicella Valpantena DOC
Higher min alcohol
Must be aged for 1 year
- Often aged in large oak vessels
Ruby colour, greater concentraton than basic Valpolicella
Some producers make outstanding wines labeled as Valpolicella Superiore (e.g. Quintarelli), often using a proportion of semi-dried grapes and aging for many years.
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
requirements and expression
Grapes can be sourced from anywhere in Valpolicella
- If Classico is stated, they must come from Classico zone
Grapes must be dried off the vine for 100-120 days
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
min 12% abv and aprox. 50 g/l RS
Intense red, fresh and dried fruit
Full body, medium+ (high) tannins
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Requirements and expression
Grapes can be sourced anywhere in Valpolicella
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
Usually vinified after 100-120 days of drying
Min alcohol 14% abv (often 5-10 g/l RS)
Must be aged at least 2 years in large casks or barriques (4 years for riserva)
Intense cherry, dried fruit spice, wood
Med (high) tannins, high acidity
May have new oak flavours, nutty volatile notes from oxidation as part of style
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Unpressed grape skins with some RS are taken from Amarone or Recioto production and macerated in vinified Valpolicella wine.
- Yeast ferment the RS
- skins give more colour, flavours and tannin
15% of Amarone can be added
Min 12.5% abv (13% for Superiore)
Must be aged for 1 year
- often in large oak
Med (full) body, medium+ tannins
Fresh and stewed red cherries and plums
Wine business Veneto
Amarone and Ripasso are extremely popular style
- huge increase in production in recent years
- drop in basic Valpolicella production, as growers can get more for Amarone grapes
65% of Amarone is exported
- Germany, USA
Other DOCs in Veneto
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
Bardolino DOC
Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Bianco di Custoza DOC
Lugana DOC
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
Replaced Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGP
- Max yields are very high, but lower than they were for the IGP
Grapes have to be grown in Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia or Trentino
- This area produces 85% of Italian Pinot Grigio (40% worldwide)
Light to med- intensity apple lemon
Light to med- body, med alcohol, med+ acidity
Bardolino DOC
Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Adjacent to Lake Garda
Mainly light bodied reds and rose
Corvina blends (35-80%) + up to 20% of other authorized red varieties
- Merlot often used to reach minimum alcohol level of 10.5% (DOC) or 11% (DOCG)
Max yields are high
Rose is called Chiaretto
Bianco di Custoza DOC
easy drinking, lightly aromatic fresh white
Blend of mainly Trebbiano Toscano, Garganega, Friulano and optionally Cortese
Mainly sold in Italy (biggest producers are co-ops)
Lugana DOC
Turbiana grape
- same as Verdicchio
Ripe apple, citrus, hazelnut
Lively acidity, saline finish
May be oak aged
Overview of Friuli wine production
Best known for high-quality single varietal whites
Notable for range of local and international varieties, both white and red
Winemaking drew on German technical expertise
- stainless steel
- temperature control
- cultured yeasts
Friuli Growing Environment
High rainfall and humidity
Flat Plain in the south
- warm maritime climate
- warming influence of Adriatic
- alluvial soil
- higher yields
- Grave del Friuli DOC
- Friuli Isonzo DOC
Low Hills in the north
- altitude (200m)
- poorer soils, including compacted marl known as ponca, with excellent drainage
- lower yields
- Collio DOC
- Collio Orientali del Friuli DOC
Main grape varieties in Friuli
25% Pinot Grigio
Many international varieties, including Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauv Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer
Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Refosco,
Friulano
Good disease resistance
Med(-) floral and apple
Med(+) acidity
Med to High alcohol
Typically made in stainless steel, but some can be lightly oaked
Best have the capacity to age
Ribolla Gialla
Only grown in Collio and Colli Orientali, as it needs hillside sites to prevent it growing too vigorously
Prone to shot berries
High acidity, with citrus and pepper notes
Many styles (dry, off-dry, sparkling, orange wines, oaked)
Refosco
Most planted local black variety
Vigorous
- does best on hillside lows with lower fertility
Late-ripening
Red cherry with herbal aromas
Small berries and high tannins
- best smoothed out with time in barrel
Orange wines in Friuli
Oslavia subregion of Collio
Principles:
- Organic methods
- Use of local varieties (especially Ribolla Gialla)
- Long maceration on skins (up to 6-8 months)
- Long aging (2-6 years) in large oak
- Ambient yeast
- No temperature control
- No fining or filtration
- Low to no added SO2
Pronounced flavors of dried fruits, dried herbs, hay, and nuts
Outline the key DOC/DOCGs in Friuli
Friuli DOC
- covers whole region
- high yields
Grave del Friuli DOC and Friuli Isonzo DOC
- high volume wines
Collio DOC and Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC
- lower max yields
- single-variety whites (Friuliano, Ribolla, Sauvignon Blanc, Chard + others)
Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG
- sweet wines from air-dried Picolit grape
Ramandolo DOCG
- sweet wines from air-dried Verduzzo grape
Friuli wine business
Strong reputation in the Italian restaurant and specialist retail market
Exports have grown by 55 per cent in recent years (due in part to Prosecco and Pinot Grigio)
Increasing focus on promoting reds, especially local, such as Refosco
- Due in part to competition from other regions (e.g. Trentino-Alto Adige) for similar styles of white wine
Piemonte growing environment
Moderate continental climate
- protected from cold northern winds and excessive rain by the Alps
- protected from Mediterranean weather systems by Apennines
- thunderstorms, hail, and fog are common
- late frost can be threat
- low rainfall during growing season
- lowers threat of fungal diseases
- Rain increases in September and October (threat to late-ripening grapes)
Nebbiolo
Early budding, very late ripening
Vigorous
- need regular canopy management
- cluster thinning
- excessive exposure to sun can be problem
Must be trained high
- first few buds are infertile
- needs to be pruned with more buds
- Single Guyot most common
New clones have aimed at increasing color, but some feel have lost aromatic intensity
- Gaja prefers mass selection, seeking vines with low vigor, open bunches, and small berries
Finest and most perfumed on calcareous marls
- south, south-west facing sites in Langhe
Barolo DOCG
max 56 hl/ha
Barolo DOCG
- aged for 3 years
- min 18 months in oak
Barolo Riserva DOCG
- aged for 5 years
- min 18 months in oak
South, south-west facing slopes
- 200-400m
- good sunlight with cooling influence
- pronounced aromatics with high acidity
Often blends of different villages (Bartolo Mascarello)
Single vineyards (championed by Gaja)
Soils in Barolo
Blue-grey marl
- north and west
- lighter more aromatic wines, drinkable earlier
- La Morra
Sand and clay (less fertile)
- south and east
- closed and tannic in youth
- must be cellared for 10-15 years
- Serralunga d’Alba
Single vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco
(certification)
status of:
- Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive
- MGA
- can cover a whole village, single vineyard, or a number of vineyards grouped together into one MGA
Barbaresco DOCG
Min 2 years of ageing (4 years for Riserva)
- 9 months in oak
Same max yields as Barolo (moderate)
Many single vineyards have MGA status
one third the size of Barolo
- slightly lower altitude
- slightly warmer
- harvest usually a week earlier
- riper style
Nebbiolo winemaking
Traditionally
- long maceration (3-4 months)
- 5-8 years of ageing
Style changed in the 70s-80s
- deeper colour, softer tannins, less need to age, new oak
Current practice:
- picking grapes with ripe skins and seeds
- maceration for 3-4 weeks
- aging in large format oak, or combination of large and small format oak
- only small proportion of new oak
Other DOCGs for Nebbiolo
Roero DOCG
Gattinara DOCG
Ghemme DOCG
- far north of Piedmont
- greater diurnal range than Barolo
- higher acidity
- light-bodied but intensely perfumed
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Nebbiolo for early drinking
Typically from younger vines or less favored sites
Maceration for 7-10 days only
Aged for up to 1 year in neutral containers
Some producers declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco