Ch. 2 – Bordeaux Flashcards

1
Q

History of Bordeaux

A

17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents

Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports

1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris
- classification based on price in Medoc and Graves
- 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
- essentially unaltered til today

111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)

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2
Q

Bordeaux climate

A

Moderate maritime climate
- cooling influence of Atlantic
- sufficient rainfall
- relatively dry autumn

Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes)
- northern Medoc is more open to ocean

Rainfall is variable
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
- climate change - drier conditions
- fungal disease threat

Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)

Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)

Hail has been an issue in recent years

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3
Q

Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux

A

Cooling influence of Atlantic

Gentle heat during growing season

Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening

Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening

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4
Q

Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season

A
  • excessive rain is factor of vintage variation

950mm on average

Flowering
- poor fuit set
Through growing season
- increased disease pressure
Following veraison
- unripe fruit and fungal diseases
Harvest
- diluted flavours

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5
Q

Soils of the Left bank

and its qualities

A

All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)

Soil is not very deep

Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)

Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)

More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets

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6
Q

Soils Right bank

A

Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot

Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol

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7
Q

Merlot

A

Early budding (vulnerable to frost)
Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)

Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary

Can ripen fully in colder years

Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc

Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol

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8
Q

Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux)

A

Late budding (protected from frost)
Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)

Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)

Prone to fungal diseases
- powdery mildew
- trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca

Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc

Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
–med alcohol
–high acidity
–high tannin

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9
Q

Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)

A

Contributes with:
–Red fruit
–high acidity
–medium tanin

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10
Q

Malbec (Bordeaux)

A

mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956

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11
Q

Petit Verdot (Bordeaux)

A

Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)

Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest

Does best on warmer parts of Medoc

Often less than 5% of blend

Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
–Spice notes
–High tannins

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12
Q

Semillon (Bordeaux)

A

Mid-ripening

Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions

High yields

Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity

Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak

Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture

Ageability - toast, honey

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13
Q

Sorting in Bordeaux

A

Depends on value of wine and quality of the vintage

High quality wine
- sorted in the vineyard
- by hand on vibrating belt
- optical sorting

If vintage is good - less sorting

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14
Q

Harvesting/vinifying more plots in Bordeaux

A

Many producers vinify plot by plot
- for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
- creating material for blending
- requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)

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15
Q

Fermentation of red wine in Bordeaux

A

Closed vats with pump-overs

Mostly cultured yeast

Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)

Temperature - depends on style and vintage
- inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
- Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)

Maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe

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16
Q

Pressing in Bordeaux

A

Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction

Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)

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17
Q

Malolactic in Bordeaux

A

in tank or barrel

Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists

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18
Q

Maturation in Bordeaux

A

Simple styles
- steel, concrete or large vats
- 4-6 months
- oak chips may be added

Premium
- French oak barriques
- mix of first, second and three year old
- up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
- usually med to med plus toasting
- 18-24 months (depending on quality)
- more concentrated wines need longer
- traditionally racked each 3 months

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19
Q

Blending in Bordeaux

A

2 approaches:

Early (spring after harvest)
- to present wines in spring
- blending over winter
- near-final blend
- deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell

Few months before bottling
- blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision

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20
Q

Muscadelle

A

Very prone to botrytis

Contributes with flowery, grapey notes

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21
Q

Planting density in Bordeaux

A

10,000 vines per hectare
- suitable for relatively infertile soils
- moderates vigour
- adds cost for plants and trellising
- special over the row tractors
- more time needed for management
- best use of expensive land

Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density

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22
Q

Vine training in Bordeaux

A

Cane pruning (most common)
- canes trained along wires
- Double Guyot (Left Bank)
- Single Guyot (Right Bank)

Cordon-pruned (rare)
- spur-pruned
- natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches

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23
Q

Canopy management in Bordeaux

A

Leaf removal in summer
- improve aeration and deter rot
- aids ripening

‘Soft pruning’ to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca

Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting
- better vine balance

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24
Q

Average yield in Bordeaux

A

50 hl/ha average

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25
Q

Harvest in Bordeaux

A

Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness

Workers from other EU countries

Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine

26
Q

Rose winemaking in Bordeaux

A

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly

In the past made by bleeding off (by-product)
- deeper coloured Clairet

Now direct pressing
- lighter coloured rose

27
Q

White winemaking in Bordeaux

A

Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h)

Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel

Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months

Higher quality
- fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new)
- many block malo
- may use batonnage

28
Q

Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux

A

Yields kept very low
- pruning to low levels of buds
- removal of any fruit showing disease or damage
- max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac)
- below 10 hl/ha is common at top estates

Harvest can last from September to November
- up to 12 passes

29
Q

Level of Botrytis in Sauternes depends on:

A

Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot

Proximity to areas where mist forms

Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather

Willingness to pay pickers for multiple passes

30
Q

Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux

A

Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques

Aged for varying periods in any of those containers

Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months
- encouraging gentle oxidation
- new oak from 30 to 50%
- Yquem 100% new oak

Less prestigious wines are often unoaked

31
Q

Bordeaux generic appellations

A

Bordeaux AOC
- max yields fairly high

Bordeaux Superieur AOC
- max yields a bit lower

Cover the whole region

Together 50% of wine in Bordeaux

Mainly Merlot

Med intensity red fruit
–high acidity
–med+ tannins
–med body and alcohol
–Inexpensive to mid priced
–acceptable to good

32
Q

Left bank red wine appellations

A

Médoc AOC
Haut-Médoc AOC
Saint-Estèphe AOC
Pauillac AOC
Saint-Julien AOC
Margaux AOC
Listrac-Médoc AOC
Moulis AOC

33
Q

Right Bank red wine appellations

A

Saint-Émilion AOC
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC
Saint-Émilion satellites
- Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC
- Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC
Pomerol AOC
Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC

34
Q

Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC

A

Reds only

Max yields are moderate

Médoc - far north end

Haut-Médoc - includes Left Bank individual communes
- warm gravelly sites
- 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot
- Gironde moderating influence
- high proportion of gravel
- pronounced blackcurrant, green bell pepper, red plum, vanilla and cedar
- med to high alcohol, high tannins, med+ bodied

Wide range of prices and quality

35
Q

Saint-Estèphe AOC

A

Most northerly and coolest

More Merlot than other communes
- more clay (better water retention - helps in dry years)

Rustic wines which need many years in bottle (cool climate) to soften tannins

No first growths

36
Q

Pauillac AOC

A

High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon
- many top estates have 70-80% of Cabernet in blend

High concentration and longevity
Most structured wine of Left Bank
High tannins, High acidity

3 first growths
(85% classified wines)

Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Latour
Château Mouton Rothschild

37
Q

Saint-Julien AOC

A

High proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon

High proportion of classified growth

Homogenous gravel soils

Mid-way between powerful structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux

No first growth but 5 second growths

38
Q

Margaux AOC

A

high proportion of classified growth
1 first growth

Slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon than in the other 3, but still Cab-dominant

Further south - vines ripen few days earlier
- can be advantage against autumn rains

Perfumed wines with silky tannins

39
Q

Listrac-Médoc AOC and Moulis AOC

A

Further from the riveer
- benefit less from moderating influence of river
- less gravel

Typically good to very good, mid priced to premium

40
Q

Graves AOC

A

white and red (but 85% is red)

max yields are moderate

Graves Superieures AOC - late picked and/or botrytis affected sweet wines

41
Q

Pessac-Léognan AOC

A

Sub region of Graves AOC

Gravel soils and moderating effect of Garonne
- known for high-quality reds and high-quality barrel fermented and aged whites

One First Growth (and all Cru classe of Graves)
–Château Haut-Brion

Max yield 54 hl/ha for both white and red

White
- Blend of SB and Semillon
- pronounced gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit, vanilla, clove
- med + body, med+ (high) acidity, med (high) alcohol

Reds are similar in style to Medoc

42
Q

Entre-Deux-Mers AOC

A

White wine only
(red wine is produced but labelled Bordeaux)

max yields are high

acceptable to good

43
Q

Saint-Émilion AOC and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC

A

Both cover the same area

Red wine only

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC has lower max yields and longer minimum maturation (20 months, rather than 6)

Dominated by Merlot (60%) and then Cabernet Franc

Has its own classification system

Wide range of quality

Best examples have pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body, high alcohol, med+ (high) acidity, med +(high) tannins

44
Q

Saint-Émilion Satellites

A

4 AOCs close to Saint-Émilion but further away from Dordogne

same rules as Saint-Émilion

Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC
Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC

45
Q

Pomerol AOC

A

Red wine only (Merlot dominated - 80%)

Max yield 49 hl/ha

No classification system but many top-quality estates
- in style similar to Saint-Émilion

Small size estates - small production leads to high prices
–Pétrus

Pronounced black plum, vanilla, clove, full body high acohol, med+ (high) acidity, med+ (high) tannins

Ages very well

46
Q

Côtes de Bordeaux

A

Red and white
Right bank
Number of communes can connect their name before the AOC
- Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
- Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
- Casillon Côtes de Bordeaux
- Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Max yields are moderate.. lower is the commune name is appended

47
Q

Côtes de Bourg AOC

A
  • Merlot dominated
  • similar in style and price to Medoc AOC
  • Focus on Malbec with 10% of hectares
48
Q

Sauternes and Barsac AOC

A

80% Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle

Cold Ciron River meets with warmer Garonne River
- promoting morning mist
- mist burns off by midday
- afternoon sunshine

Max yield 25 hl/ha (in reality much lower)

Pronounced citrus peel, honey, mango, vanilla, full body, high alcohol, med (med+) acidity, sweet finish

Lack of demand - dry wines also produced now

49
Q

Alternative sweet wine appellations in Bordeaux

A

Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC
Loupiac AOC
Premieres Cotes de Bourdeaux AOC

All have higher max yields than Sauternes

50
Q

1855 Classification

A

Wines of the Medoc were ranked into First to Fifth Growths
- includes Chateau Haut-Brion in Graves

Wines of Sauternes ranked into First and Second Growth

Based on prices then being achieved

Must be bottled at the estate

51
Q

Classification system in Graves

A

list based on pricing, fame, and quality as judged by tasting

16 classified chateaux for red, white, or both

52
Q

Classification system in Saint-Émilion

A

Revised at approx 10 year intervals

Judged on:
- terroir
- methods of production
- reputation
- commercial considerations
- blind tasting of at least 10 vintages

3 tiers:
- Premier Grand Cru Classe A
- Premier Grand Cru Classe B
- Grand Cru Classe

53
Q

The Crus Bourgeois du Medoc classification

A

Level below Cru Classe (still superior quality)
- awarded annually to individual wines, not to chateaux
- based on production methods and finished product

From 2018 vintage on, chateaux classified into 3 tiers:
- Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnel
- Crus Bourgeois Superieur
- Crus Bourgeois
- classification will last 5 years

54
Q

Problems of classification systems in Bordeaux

A

Controversial
–Using Grand Cru in St Emilion appellation name is confusing
–Many high quality estates are not included in Graves classification
–Saint-Émilion lawsuit dented its reputation

55
Q

Wine business in Bordeaux

A

Number of estates is shrinking (taken over by larger neighbours)

Average size is over 19ha

Annual production over 800 mil bottles

Cooperatives are important (1/4 of production from 40% of growers)

Two distinct markets:
- Majority of wine is inexpensive
- has struggled to increase prices
- falling domestic demand
- competition from other countries
- En primeur sales

56
Q

What factors contribute to the higher price for premium bottlings in Bordeaux?

A

vine density
harvest costs
higher viticulture costs
lower yield
rigorous grape selection
barrel ageing
land price

57
Q

La Place de Bordeaux

A

Chateau sells to a negociant via a broker (courtier)

The negociant then sells it on to wholesalers or retailers

Each party charges % for their services
–Courtier typically takes 2%
–Negociant typically takes 15%

Chateau sells to number of negociants (allocation system)

58
Q

En Primeur (Bordeaux)

A

Classed growths and other high quality wines

Wine is sold 12-18 months before it is bottled
- spring following harvest
- consumers secure hard-to-buy bottles at lower price
- estate benefits from early payment

Price includes transportation
- it is ex-cellar - excludes any taxes that will be due in the final market

59
Q

En Primeur procedure

A

April following harvest
- barrel samples are provided for journalists and buyers

May/June
- Chateau releases prices (usually through negociant)
- first tranche (to test what market is prepared to pay)
- Depending on sales of first tranche, second tranche is released and price adjusted

60
Q

Complications of allocations for negociants in Bordeaux

A

Certain amount of wine negociant is allowed to buy from chateau
- must buy to secure future allocations in great vintages
- poor vintages may end up unsold

61
Q

Which hazards are there to grape growing in Bordeaux?

A

Botrytis bunch rot
Frost
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Hail
Excessive rain

62
Q

Lalande-de-Pomerol

A

Satellite appellation allowing slightly higher yields