Ch. 21 – Portugal Flashcards

1
Q

Portugal

A

Portugal

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2
Q

Portugal winemaking history

A

Tagus and Sado valleys 2,000 BCE

Alliance with England - major wine supplier

19th and 20th century

  • Portugese Civil War
  • Phylloxera
  • Cooperatives were given preferential rights
  • Badly equipped and run - high volumes of poor wines
  • Mateus Rose, Lancers Rose (40% of exports)

Democracy and EU

  • cease of trade restrictions
  • low-interest loans - encouragement of investment
  • no more government protection for cooperatives
  • modernization
  • research programmes
  • pulling up high-producing vineyards replacing with higher quality material and sites
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3
Q

Portugal growing environment

topography and soil

A

Rolling hills and plains

Soils

  • significant variations
  • Mountain regions - schist and granite
  • South - more variation - clay, limestone, sand
  • fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks (Tejo)
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4
Q

Portugal climate

A

Strongly infuenced by Atlantic (cool rainy weather)

More continetal climate inland

  • protection of mountain ranges
  • warmer, drier, south

Hazards

  • drought (especially inland)
  • extreme weather events - hail, storms, wildfires
  • Wet weather in coastal regions - fungal diseases
  • Esca and European grapevine moth
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5
Q

Portugal viticulture

A

Majority pruned and trained

  • cordon or replacement-cane and VSP trellised
  • significant number of old bush vines (Duoro, Alentejo)
  • mixed vineyards, producing ‘field blends’

Irrigation allowed

  • most do not need to apply for authorization
  • Generally only if lack of water lowers quality
  • cannot be used for boosting yield

Low proportion of certified organic vinayards
- some practise organic but do not certify

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6
Q

Grape varieties in Portugal

A

Growing tendency to return to local varieties
Majority of wines are blends

Aragonez/Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca
Touriga Nacional
Fernão Pires/Maria Gomes (white)
Castelão
Trincadeira
Baga
Loureiro (white)
Arinto/Pedemã (white)
Syrah
Roupeiro
Alicante Bouschet
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7
Q

Regions which do not allow international varieties in Portugal

A

Douro

Dao

Vinho Verde

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8
Q

Regions relying on international varieties as part of their export strategy

A

Alentejo

Lisboa

Tejo

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9
Q

Portugal winemaking

A

Mostly blends

Admission to EU started large modernization

  • protective techniques
  • temperature control, de-stemming
  • French oak (primary type of oak)

Traditional techniques

  • large Portugese oak (3,000-6,000l) and Brazilian hardwood toneis
  • more restrained use of oak and larger format
  • new foudres (around 2,000-2,500L)
  • chestnut barrels

Lagares - regularly practised

Fermenting wine in clay vessels

Pre-fermentation skin contact for Portugese whites
- growth in natural wines

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10
Q

Primary oak used in Portugal

A

French

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11
Q

size of foudre

A

between 2,000 ad 2,500 litres

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12
Q

Portugese wine law

A

as member of EU follows PDO and PGI system

DOC/DOP (denominação de origem controlada/protegida)

  • 31 DOCs
  • each its own regulations om growing, winemaking
  • all wines must be officially tested, tasted and approved

VR (Vinho Regional)

  • PGI wines
  • 14 VRs
  • often permit international varieties

Vinho
- no PGI or PDO status

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13
Q

Wine business in Portugal general

A

Grape growing represents 35% of total national agricultural output (highest in the world)

Land of small holdings

  • in the past most growers were selling to negociants
  • Sogrape - largest in Portugal
  • increasing number of growers produce their own wine (Quinta/Herdade)

Trend of small winemakers who do not own land who select vineyards from where they source their grapes

9th largest export producer

  • steady growth in volume and value of unfortified wine
  • France, Angola, Germany, UK

Promotional body Wines of Portugal

Significant raise in tourism and growth in average income

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14
Q

Portugese name for estate wine

A

Quinta or Herdade

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15
Q

Portugese wine regions

A
Vinho Verde
Douro
Dão
Bairrada
Alentejo
 \+ Vinho de Talha DOC
Lisboa
 - Alenquer DOC
 - Bucelas DOC
 - Arinto DOC
 - Colares DOC
Peninsula de Setubal
 - Palmela DOC
 - Setubal DOC
Tejo DOC / VR
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16
Q

Vinho Verde

topography

A
River Minho (west) and Douro (south)
Mountains of Peneda-Gerês National Park (east)

Mostly granitic bedrock with shallow topsoil of granite and sandy texture - good drainage

  • low fertility
  • fertilizers commonly used
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17
Q

PGI region (VR) for Vinho Verde

A

Minho

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18
Q

Vinho Verde

climate and viticulture

A

Moderate maritime climate

  • Atlantic coast
  • network of rivers funnelling Atlantic winds inland
  • land gradually raises inland (soils become poorer)
  • inland more continental (warmer, drier)
  • high rainfall (1.500mm)
  • marked vintage variation

Fungal disease problems

  • rot, mildew
  • vines are usually trained high (even up the trees)
  • single or double Guyot with VSP or Lyre
  • importance of summer pruning techniques
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19
Q

Vinho Verde grape varieties

A

Large change from red to white dominated

Loureiro
Pedernã
Alvarinho
Avesso
Trajadura
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20
Q

Loureiro

A

Loureira in Spain

Mostly grown by the coast (Vinho Verde)

Mid ripening

Med+ acidity, citrus, pear, floral, herbal notes

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21
Q

Pedernã

A

Local name for Arinto in Vinho Verde

mid ripening, relatively productive

Less aromatic, subtle citrus and apple and high acidity

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22
Q

Alvarinho

A

(Albarino in Spain)

Citrus, peach, sometimes tropical flavours

Med+ body, med+ to high acidity

Admitted as named grape variety on the label since 2016

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23
Q

Avesso

A

late ripening (can fail to ripen unless very warm and dry)

Lower in acidity, relatively full bodied

Citrus and stone fruit

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24
Q

Trajadura

A

(Treixadura in Rias Baixas Spain)

low in acidity with apple and peach flavours

Usually blended with more acidic varieries

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25
Winemaking in Vinho Verde
Inexpensive wines - protective winemaking - cool fermentation - bottled fast after release - carbon dioxide often added to give light spritz - low alcohol, high acidity, apple, citrus, peach - some may have residual sugar Higher priced wines - Mostly old oak for ferment and/or maturation - may age on lees
26
Vinho Verde legal requirements
Name of sub-region may appear on the label Min alcohol 9.5% - (8.5% without sub-region) Monção and Melgaço - only sub-regions able to label single varietal Alvarinho - other regions must declassify to Minho VR to label single varietal Alvarinho - other regions can label Alvarinho (min 30% of blend) along other varieties of the blend
27
Single varietal Alvarinho from Monção and Melgaço requirement
lower max yield than rest of Vinho Verde Min alcohol 11.5% Only Monção and Melgaço sub-regions can name Alvarinho on their labels as single variety - other regions must declassify to Minho VR to label single varietal Alvarinho - other regions can label Alvarinho (min 30% of blend) along other varieties of the blend
28
Wine business in Vinho Verde - Producers - export - market composition
Very fragmented - many growers - most deliver to coops or merchants Producers - Anselmo Mendes and Quinta de Soalheiro Gradually growing export 40% - Germany, USA
29
Douro | - DOC for fortified and unfortified wines
Porto DOC - fortified Douro DOC - unfortified
30
Fernando Nicolau de Almeida | - first Douro red wine
Used to work at Ferreira Port After visit at Bordeaux pioneered first vintage of Barca Velha 1952 - cooling fermentation with ice - experimentation with fermentations of still wines - Settled on Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) - now super-premium priced wine Douro DOC established in 1982
31
Douro climate (also in consideration of sub-regions) + soil
Follows Douro river - number of aspects and microclimates Serra do Marão (west) - shielding from Atlantic - warm continental climate 3 sub-regions - Baixo Corgo - coolest, wettest - Cima Corgo - warmer, drier - Douro Superior - hot and arid Schist bedrock, Low organic matter and stony texture - stores little water - splits into vertical layers - roots can spread through - hillsides are not set for irrigation (irrigation is allowed but grower must notify it)
32
Sub-regions of Douro DOC
- Baixo Corgo - coolest, wettest - Cima Corgo - warmer, drier - Douro Superior - hot and arid (not so planted)
33
Irrigation in Douro
Most vineyards are not set with irrigation systems since 2019 irrigation is allowed when hydric stress jeopardises quality and vineyard in located in authorised area. Producer needs to notify it
34
Douro grape varieties
Usually blends Similar to Port production ``` Touriga Nacional Touriga Franca Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) Tinta Barroca Tinta Cão Sousão Viosinho Rabigato Gouveio Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains) ```
35
Vineyard layouts in Douro
Steep slopes (often over 30%) Socalcos - Traditional (UNESCO protected) - narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock - 6.000 vines per ha - not suitable for mechanization (+ maintanance) - cannot be converted to other layouts Patamares - terraces supported by steep earth ramp - Small tractors are able to run up and down the slopes - cheaper to implement and maintain - erosion and weeds - low planting densities (up to 3.500 vines per ha) - ramps take a lot of space - 1. Large, wide - supporting 2 vine rows - efficient use of land, uneven ripeness - 2. Narrow - one row of vine tilted towards the slope - improved water absorption and drainage, less erosion Vinha ao Alto - vertical rows up the slopes - least expensive option - relatively high density (5.000 vines per ha) - above 40% mechanization cannot be used - water run-off, erosion - not very used - cover crops may be used (erosion)
36
Socalcos - Vineyard layout
- Traditional (UNESCO protected) - narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock - 6.000 vines per ha - not suitable for mechanization (+ maintanance) - cannot be converted to other layouts
37
Patamares - Vineyard layout
- terraces supported by steep earth ramp - Small tractors are able to run up and down the slopes - cheaper to implement and maintain - erosion and weeds - low planting densities (up to 3.500 vines per ha) - ramps take a lot of space - currently the prefered system 2 kinds: Large, wide - supporting 2 vine rows - efficient use of land, uneven ripeness Narrow - one row of vine tilted towards the slope - improved water absorption and drainage - less erosion
38
Vinha ao Alto - Vineyard layout
- vertical rows up the slopes - least expensive option - relatively high density (5.000 vines per ha) - above 40% mechanization cannot be used - water run-off, erosion - not very used - cover crops may be used (erosion)
39
Vineyard management in Douro (except layouts)
Cordon-trained and spur-pruned or Head-trained and cane-pruned - VSP trellised Summer pruning - leaf removal - rootstocks tolerant to drought - 110R and 1103P (hybrids of rupestris and berlandieri)
40
Douro when replanting the focus is on:
Increasing vine density vineyard layouts that allow mechanization best planting material (grape variety, rootstock etc.)
41
Douro viti hazards
Late spring frost in high altitude vineyards Wet weather during early summer Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot - canopy management, fungicides Fertilizers may be necessary Herbicides may be used Lack of labour for harvest
42
Touriga Franca
late ripening - suitable on warmest sites (low altitude, south facing) Tight bunches of thick-skinned grapes - relative resistance to fungal diseases Can be vigorous - needs to be managed - summer pruning Retains acidity well Contributes colour, tannins and acidity Juicy red and black fruit, floral aroma Medium body, med alcohol
43
Touriga Nacional
Mid-ripening Thick-skinned grapes - deep colour - high tannins Retains acidity well Can suffer from excessive vigour - needs to be managed Susceptible to coulure Concentrated flavours, high level of colour and tannins - black fruit and floral - rose, violet, orange blossom - long ageing potential - often premium wines
44
Tinta Roriz
(Tempranillo in Spain, Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal) early ripening - best grown on relatively cool sites - can suffer from water stress Contributes body, colour to the blend Capable of high yields, but has to be limited
45
Tinta Barroca
Early ripening - best planted on cool sites (high altitude, north facing) Prone to heat damage and grape shrivelling Unless on cool sites - can lack acidity Tends to be earthy Colour tends to fade quickly Capable of high yields
46
Tinta Cão
Ripens late Low yielding, very drought tolerant - concentrated wines with high acidity - capable to age well Small thick-skinned berries - resistant to fungal diseases
47
Sousão
Thick-skinned berries - deep colour - ability to retain high acidity brings in freshness to the blend
48
Portugese term for old vines
Vinha velha
49
Grape varieties for white wine in Douro and their characters
Viosinho - full bodied, floral, stone fruit - can lack acidity Rabigato - high acidity, citrus, floral Gouveio (Godello) - medium+ acidity, citrus, stone fruit Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains) - enhances intensity of aroma in blend - planted on coolest sites
50
Douro DOC winemaking
still red, rose or white, also sparkling wine red over 75% Often blend of sites to work with vintage variations Sometimes field blend of old vine fruit (vinhas velhas) - all Port houses make dry wine - best: Prats & Symington, Quinta do Vale Meão Usually destemmed (additional tannin rarely needed) Stainless with temp control - relatively cool for reds 24-28 degrees - tannin control - some producers still use lagares (or may start ferment there) - easier to control extraction level than in tank Post-ferment maceration for premium wine (soften tannin) - typically large oak vessel - Portugese oak, barriques, French oak prefered - less new oak preference and large oak comeback Premium whites tend to be afed in oak (new or old)
51
Wine business Douro DOC
Port 60% of production 23 cooperatives (inexpensive wines) Beneficio controls prices and volumes of Port - does not touch Douro wines - prices are influence by the market Price of grapes for Douro DOC are below Porto DOC - in years of surplus prices drop even further (often below production costs) Domestic market 63% of sales
52
Dão DOC declassified wines
VR Terras do Dão
53
Dão DOC climate Soils and hazards
surrounded by mountains - protecting from cool maritime weather (west) - protected from arid conditions (east, south) Mediterranean climate - warm, dry summers, mild winters - relatively high rainfall 1600mm (autumn, winter) Number of hills, valleys, mountain ranges - varied altitude and aspects (400-500m) - pine and eucalyptus forests Only 5% planted with vines Weathered granite with sandy or loamy textrue - low nutrients - free draining - constaining vigour - water stress can be problem Hail during summer, spring frosts below mountains
54
Dão DOC Grape varieties and winemaking
around 80% red wine Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Alfrocheiro - often blended - often less full bodied than Douro - Jean sometimes carbonic - ageing in oak is common (new is typical) - good to outstanding Encruzado - key variety for white wines - medium (medium+) acidity, can be full bodied, lemon, peach, flora - neutral ferment or oak and maturation in oak - sometimes lees stirring - capable of ageing well Other white varieries: - Malvasia Fina - Bical - Cercial
55
Jaen
Mencia in Spain (grown in Dão) moderate acidity, raspberry, blackberry Sometimes made by carbonic maceration
56
Wine business in Dão
area of small vineyard holdings Cooperative Sogrape led the way in producing higher quality wines in all price points Growing number of quality minded producers - Vinha Paz, Quinta da Pellada Only 15-20% exported
57
Bairrada climate and soils viticulture
Maritime climate - generous rainfall 800-1200mm Fertile alluvial soils in west Limestone-clay slopes in south High trained individually staked bush vines - recent plantings are trellised (Guyot)
58
Baga
Black grape variety dominating Bairrada region High acidity and tannins, medium body Cranberry, plum Can be astringent when young, but softer and more complex with bottle ageing. Base for Mateus Rose (previously used for high yields) ``` Late ripening and productive - careful site selection to ensure full ripeness - best on limestone-clay - optimum water - photosynthesis can stop in drought - limestone reflects light to vines - green harvesting may be carried (fruit can go to sparkling wine production) ``` Traditionally fermented on stems - long ageing required - now wines are de-stemmed
59
Other red grape varieties in Bairrada
Mainly Baga (some are blends of Baga) ``` Touriga Nacional Alfrocheiro Jaen Camarate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot ```
60
Baga classico requirements
min 50% Baga | min 85% of any blend Baga, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Camarate
61
White wines in Bairrada + descriptions of varieties
Maria Gomes (Fernao Pires in other parts of Portugal) - early ripening - Can produce high yields - Citrus, floral aroma - looses acidity fast (otherwide med+) Bical - early ripening, peach, tropical - looses acidity fast (otherwide med+) Arinto and Cercial - apple and citrus - may be used to blend in for acidity Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
62
Maria Gomes
The most planted white grape in Portugal early ripening Can produce high yields Citrus, floral aroma - looses acidity fast (otherwise med+)
63
Leading region for production of sparkling wine
Bairrada
64
Wine business in Bairrada
Cooperatives and merchants are common Baga Friends - high quality wines organization for Baga grape
65
Alentejo DOC climate Soils Training system
Algarve mountains to the south 8 sub-regions Mediterranean climate - 500-800mm of rain - irrigation widely used Plains and gentle slopes, mountains in north, south and east Wide range of soils - granite, schist, limestone with varying texture Mostly double cordon with VSP One of most sparsely populated areas in Portugal
66
DOC for aphorae fermented wines in Alentejo
Vinho de Talha DOC Talha = amphora
67
Alentejo's most famous sub-region
Portalegre - less hot and dry - over 800m high - fresher, higher acidities - small, orchard like vineyards - significant number of old field blend vineyards
68
Alentejo grape varieties and winemaking
Mostly blends (75% red) ``` Aragonez (Tinta Roriz, Tempranillo) Alicante Bouschet Tricadeira Touriga Nacional Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot ``` ``` Roupeiro Antão Vaz Arinto (Pedernã in Vinho Verde) Chardonnay Viognier Alvarinho ```
69
Producers in Alentejo
Cartuxa and Mouchão
70
Alentejo wine business
37% domestic sales 20% of total Portugese export Area of large holdings - well suited to cost-effective, high-volume mechanized viti - relatively young vineyards Strongly focused on Tourism - cellar doors - proximity to Lisbon - often producing range of other products (ham, olive oil)
71
Lisboa Climate and topology
Serra de Montejunto splits the region into two areas - west influenced by Atlantic - wet and windy, clay-limestone soils (lighter styles) - east more protected, riper fuller wines
72
Lisboa region smaller DOCs
Alenquer DOC - eastern side of mountains - Full bodied Touriga Nacional and Aragonez Boucelas DOC - eastern side of mountains - high acid wines from Arinto (must be min 75% Arinto) Colares DOC - coastal region - cool, foggy, ungrafted old bush vines - Phylloxera free sandy soils - atracting producers to make fresh, high acid red and whites from local grapes
73
Lisboa Wine business + producers
Most of the production comes from Lisboa VR - 'Lisboa' is more recognisable term than names of the sub-regions Significant proportion of wine sold without GI Producers: Quinta de Chocapalha, Quinta do Monte d'Oiro
74
Península de Setúbal
Mediterranean climate Mountains in south provide cooling influence - clay-limestone soils Mostly flat, sandy, clay and schist more inland 2 DOCs Palmela DOC - mainly red wines - must be min 67% Castelão (also known as Periquita) - deep, full bodied, red berry fruit, often oaked - ageworthy on sand, light on limestone - Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah Setúbal DOC - sweet fortified wines from Moscatel Península de Setúbal VR - allows more flexibility Producers: Jose Maria da Fonseca, Bacalhoa Vinhos\
75
Tejo
After Tejo river In the past production was focused on volume - fertile riverbanks - high yields - New plantings on of higher quality grapes (after pull-up scheme) Mediterranean climate - wet winters 750mm Large range of local and international varieties Producers: Quinta da Alorna, Fuiza & Bright